Vidar_710

Hand drafted plans completed... Scratch building the components to the top details of the Warp Nacelles. There are six sections to make the shape of this assembly. A section was cut out of a 1/2" styrene tube that I saved from a yard sign, then cemented to a strip for styrene to keep its shape. Here the aft tip has been ground away before applying Epoxy dough to fill it in and shape it to a taper. The base is made into a box. 1-2-3 blocks are being used to keep this assembly flat, and square as the cement cures. Two of the six sections are comple

Nacelle top pattern scratch-build... Drafting everything to determine the shape in my scale. Here are the offerings from (middle: The Collective halfway decent try to at least look somewhat like what was on the studio model, but poorly vacuum formed and too narrow.) and (Bottom: Lunar's big hunk of resin that nowhere near represents what the nacelles look like. Since I've modified the nacelle masters (top) and lengthened them to the correct size and shape, the original parts are too short. The actual ILM masters will guide me to make a single mas

Nacelle blisters sanded to shape. I'll lay is some red glazing filler to smooth them out and call them done. Tracy

The fabrication of the bottom nacelle blisters. Two layers of sheet styrene laminated with cement, then 2mm 1/4 cut styrene dowel (not triangles) were cemented to the edges to create height. Front Rear After the cement cures, the blister's gluing surfaces were sanded down with sandpaper wrapped around a nacelle master to recreate the contour of the nacelle onto the bottom of the blisters for a perfect fit. Blisters match the shape of the nacelles. Then the material was removed to match the shape of

Warp Nacelle bottom blisters from scratch... Drawing out the paper templates. Tracing paper used on scaled images to copy the actual shaped of the leading and trailing edges of the blisters. Front Rear Tracings about to be transposed to the paper templates. Paper templates placed to check position, size, and shape to the nacelle masters. Paper templates completed and the preliminary parts cut from sheet styrene have been clamped together to ensure they are sanded into identic

Couldn't help myself. Had to show how everything is tying together... Warp Nacelle bottom blisters are next... Tracy

Sanding to the final shape with fillers is complete. Now it's time to divide the pylons so they will be able to assemble within the Warp Pylon blister... Here a special bit was used to drill through the multi-media of materials, which includes brass tubing. The hole was a tad too big because it exposed both armature brass tubes, so I shimmed in some styrene then backfilled it with epoxy dough. A cut line has been established here as well. Top and bottom views The cut went almost perfect. Small repairs and some clean u

I have the Titan 777-300 and the 757 kits. I can't wait to build them. I'll NEVER build a BUS, but I hope someone on here builds one with a thread! Tracy

Another short... Excessive sculpting material pressed into gaps and blending the vertical sections into the horizonal piece. Starboard Port When fully cured after 24 hours, I'll shape and blend everything together. A coat of acrylic filler will be applied to even out the surfaces as seen on the blisters. Once I'm happy with that, a 3/4" hole with be drilled for wiring access, then it will be ready to cut down the middle of the wing for ease of assembly. Steel rods will be inserted into the forward and aft brass tubing with

Another short one... Final Pylon assembly. Starboard side blister aligned with its reference line on the starboard nacelle master. Port side... Nacelle masters still secured to the mat grid to ensure they are square and parallel to one another before placing the pylon assembly for alignment. The pylons are not glued to the nacelle masters. Starboard side: 1-2-3 blocks in place on the grid to ensure they are a pure perpendicular to the nacelles and apply weight to the assembly to ensure full contact is made at the joints.

Short update... Pylon blisters sanded down to shape. Next, I'll apply some fillers to unify the surfaces and finish up fully opening the foot pads for wiring access. Next... Adding these to the horizontal section to complete the pylon assembly. Tracy

Short Update... Filling the spaces... All filled in and slightly larger than need on purpose... When the Form Air Epoxy Dough fully cures 24hrs after mixing, I can slowly work the shapes back down with a Dremel sanding drum and assorted sanding sticks. Tracy

The footpads of the blisters made of sheet styrene where the pylons attach to the nacelles. They've been pulled around brass tubing to match the shape of the nacelles. Reference lines on the nacelle masters and the blister patterns aligned. The side profile patterns for the blisters have been cemented in place. But first, the nacelles have to be aligned to ensure they are parallel to one another, then the pylon assembly is placed on the nacelles to determine their positions before forming the blisters to the nacelle's shape. Using the grid

Short update... Free Form Air sculpted in. They're a bit messy now, but you can see where the sculpting material was added to form the new shapes. There was resin removed as well to get the cord line of the vertical sections to align with the rest of the ship's Centerboard - old Navy term for imaginary line down the center of the ship forward to aft. I'll give the Air Form epoxy dough 24 hours to cure before I sand them into their final shapes. Then, on to framing out the blisters at the tops that connect the pylons to the nacelles, then sculpt i

The vertical sections are not glued in yet. They are supported with brass tubing. Here, I'm establishing the longitudinal axis of the vertical sections with the core of the Lunar Model parts which you can see here are significantly off as per the penciled in reference lines. Resin outside the pencil markings will be removed. Here the new leading and trailing edges are established, but not without problems. 17deg angel established on the leading-edge starboard side based off the small tick off the recessed grill detail... 17deg angle e