Vidar_710

MRP Black Primer applied Little clean up now that I can see the errors, then the color goes on. Tracy

Before the cutting... ...and now.

Phot-etch installed and replaced as well as added additional rivet and fastener details lost in the sanding process. Prime and paint when everything fully cures. Tracy

Main Instrument hood filled and sanded in. Photo-etch for the canopy seal details to go...

Main Instrument Panel hood installed... Some refining to do. Mail Call!!! Replacement details damaged or removed from installation arrived. Tracy

Done with the turtle deck - save a few small added wet transfer rivets and brass details. For those concerned about what tail is going on this build... A slightly modified KASL F-16A/B tail should do it. 😉

Styrene trimmed and sanded to shape... Due to the different colored mediums, I chose Green filler so I can see it during the sanding process... Tracy

The OLD Black Box cockpit set does not fit too well. It's a bit small so some adjustments had to be made... Here strip styrene and Aves Apoxie Sculpt was added so the tub fits the contour of the cockpit area. Moving on to the Turtle Deck, I had to scratch built the extensions to add detail for an open canopy. First, extend the deck Then add the inner walls Next, the outer walls Finally, cap off the openings up front. After everyth

Forgot to add that the Wheel Wells, have been primed and painted gloss White. Detail painting to come...

This kit is terrible! From what I can see, it's a badly distorted version of the XL based on the old Hasagawa F-16A kit. So... I'm going to try to fit a round peg into a square hole throughout this build using aftermarket sets that are not designed for it - None have been created. This kit comes as Closed Cockpit only. Lucky for me, I have a couple of Hasagawa canopies in the parts box. This means I have to do some hacking at the cockpit tub. Instrument panel hood removed for aftermarket tub. Work transferred over to the intake and wh

Awesome stuff as always Shaw! Glad you're on ARC. You always pick cool subjects to study. Tracy

My Excelsior project is thankful for 3D printing. It's been a WIP since 2013 and has started taking on large leaps in progress. Scratch building greeble details represented by from actual model kits into my scale would have been problematic, but now.... 🙂 Glad to see you back on this CJ. It's looking incredible. What printer do you have? I just unboxed a Elegoo Saturn 2 8k. Now, learning how to use it with my old brain should be fun. May ask you for those Shuttle mount files... I'm not crazy with the Shapeways medium - they seem "waxy". I think Hi-res resin printing wi

New updated version of the aft torp launchers and the addition of the forward torp tube inserts. Much more accurate surface detail on this latest modeling. I recently ordered the Egeloo Saturn 2 8K resin printer bundle. Half of it has shown up so far. I was spending a small fortune on Shapeways, so I took the plunge. Tracy

This was the last 1/48 scale Viking I built back in the mid-90's for a fellow Checkmate. It was a Christmas gift from her Apache pilot husband - which I built an Apache for him from her the Christmas before. This is me getting the occasional stick time. Hook is down, so we were over the boat. I have 3 qtr scale Vikings planned for the near future. One of which is very special to me - The one (Vidar 710) I punched out of in October '89. I think it's past time to do it. Tracy

Hey gents, I thought I would share a tid-bit on the Viking that the majority of modelers tend to misrepresent in the finishing portion of their builds. The rear canopies on the S-3 Viking are actually CLEAR. They are lined with a paper laminant on the inside surface to block out sunlight. This was due to the type of displays used at the TACCO and SENSO stations. These displays would be completely washed out with any considerable amount of light coming into these crew stations. Since the canopies do not separate during crew ejection, the paper lining is scribed with