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Hooker169

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Everything posted by Hooker169

  1. My guess that trying to make an E model would be too much work. But you could get away with making a "super D" that the 160th guys in Savannah fly. It has all the lumps and bumps, refueling probe but lacks the enlarged fuel tanks and the radar nose cone. This would obviously be a an option worth considering.
  2. As for which version it is, they have sprue's for both the "A" model and the "C" model. But I noticed that the new HF antenna is included and that mod was only done in the last 5 years to the D models. Also the "A" model FOD screens are included as are the "C/D" model screens along with both sets of blades. So really it wouldnt be all that much work to upgrade it to a D model. Now the next question, will all these sprues be included in the "A" kit or are we seeing test shots from the "A" and the next in the series "C/D" version? Time will tell boys.
  3. Dont know if you guys have seen these yet, but all I can say is OMG!!!!! I can't freakin wait!!!!!!!! Hobbylinc already has it on their site listed at $119, of course its not in stock yet. Thats really not a bad price for the amount of plastic you get! Enjoy http://www.ipmsphilippines.com/reviews/tru...n/trumpchin.htm
  4. Thanks JC. Now comes the hard part, finding pics and printing one on the trusty alps.
  5. Thanks Rotorhead. Thats what I was looking for. Would you happen to know anything about the bat on the virtical stab? Well I think I got the Cav decals nailed down. Just waiting on my photoetch from greatmodels.com thats 9 weeks over due. Thanks for everything boys.
  6. Does anyone know what the tail number for that 1st Cav 227th AVN Longbow shot down by the "farmer" in the early days of the war? And possibly any pics? I would ask my brother who volunteered to go with that unit but its supposed to be a surprise for him. Also read that it had a bat on the tail? Hmm, any help would be great. Thanks boys.
  7. Here are some ramp pics for ya. The tongue slides into the base of the ramp at the bottom of each pic. Also you can see the ramp extensions. Hope this helps.http://www.chinook-helicopter.com/history/aircraft/Nederland/rnlaf.html
  8. Ya Liam, pepper is perfectly correct. The ramp crackes open about 6 inches then the sequence valve pulls the "Tongue" into the ramp then continues to fall to the full open position. Refresh my memory, are the ramp extensions included in the kit? I think they are so you will have to add them to the ramp if you are driving a Land Rover off. Good Luck.
  9. Im sure that guy in the 160th is either doing fine or not crewing anymore, those boys have a nack for weeding out the weak crew members. I do remember calling a NVG -198 load at Bragg once where they put the gun on a dirt road on the range. It was the only sand for miles and they always managed to put those things on the dustiest spots. Anyway, once we approached the load the dust started and you know how bad that sand hitting you in the eyes hurts. The gogles prevent the visor from coming down. So we were centered over the load and the hook-up man was making me thread the needle. He was
  10. Chris, Ah I see! I hate it when those hooks take on a life of their own But then again it would have been cool to drop something inexpensive We (crew members in general) were having a problem with guys hitting the release button right next to the mic button on the pickle grip so we were required to strap the grip to the floor next to the hole and call the load in flight with the hand mic. Anyway, did the hook swing up like every FEI says, or was the load too light when it went? I guess prob not since you are still here with us. Well take care Chris and fly safe "Ramp and cabin door sec
  11. Hey Guy, I wouldnt be advertising you inadvertantly punching a load "only once". Tell me it was the training block and not some poor gun crew's one-niner-eight. Hopefully it wasnt inadvertant at all and you HAD to punch it <_< I never had to punch a load for safety of flight reasons, (Does making a hummv bounce twice on a really dark and dusty DZ count?) Anyway, back to the original post. We would spend the extra time backing the hummv up the ramp as to speed up the drop off, plus it looked cool as hell when it drove off the ramp as soon as the ramp came down after landing (we wo
  12. ya f14peter, I remember the OPFOR guys at Ft.Polk's JRTC used hips and hinds. I cant recall the unit though. They would buzz our tents a couple times a week while we were there. And this was in 97-98.
  13. Thanks guys, thats what I was afraid of. I think I will take Dave's advise and build the 1/48 Has kit and pimp it out pretty heavy. There is no shortage of detail sets out there for it so it should be pretty easy. Anyway, Thanks for making this an easy choice. Later boys.
  14. Are any of you guys familiar with either one of these kits? Which one would you guys go for? It looks like they both have the same box art, are they actually the same kit? Any info would be welcome. Also, I saw that most detail sets are for the Kangnam, this leads me to think that this is the better kit? My brother just got back from Iraq and I would like to build him a kick *** 1st Cav Longbow. Thanks in advance boys.
  15. Thanks smithery, But I think I'm gonna stay with sponge's suggestion of center tank, 2 training AIM -9's, and VER's with MK 82 trainers. As for the markings question, I can't seem to find any reference pics of a plane from 106 that shows both sides. Anyway, I guess I could just go the safe way and keep Navy on both sides. Thanks for all the help guys. Again, thanks for the tanks offer smithery. Later, Mike
  16. Thanks Sponge, Thats what I was looking for. One more thing, This may be a stupid question but I've seen Hornets with Navy on one side and Marines on the other, would this apply to 106? Thanks for your time. Mike
  17. I'm trying to come up with a cool looking load out for my 1/48 scale VFA-106 "Gladiators" Hornet. I have the Has "A" and "D" weapons sets but no wing tanks. Any suggestions would be great, thanks boys.
  18. I've also used the gear doors as a mask the last few times but for some applications I've used panty hose cut into varies sizes and shoved into the wells (saw on ARC, can't remember where) The hose seems to be thin enough to fit into all the subtle details but thick enough to catch the paint.
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