TexasBlues

yup... keep a bowl of laq thinnner nearby.... drop the cup in, then use a pipette to flush in and out of the draw tube... rinse... reapeat... use a/b to dry... shoot laq thinner thru a/b for 20 sec... move to next color... have had NO problems yet, and i spray everything... enamel, acrylic, and laq... hth

True... i shoot metalizers last so i can shoot the laq thinner to clean it up... of course i disassemble and soak all parts in the laq thiiner while cleanoing... wipe it aLall down,... and all moving parts get 1 drop of barber clipper oil spray and then stash thanks for the info... i'll try it soon...

beats me dude... all i have ever used is future... in facti am sending some to a member in belgium... as soon as i get off my *ss and go to the post office... its everywhere here... bout $5 bottle...

but if dullcoated... there should be no problem... right? i got some water on one and it beaded upon the dull coat after it cured of course...

dont know about those... i use one of those electronic repair doodads with the mag glass and a pair of gator clips on swivelling arms... provides 2 extra hands and makes a pretty stable platform... holds machine in lots of configurations and allows the glass to be taken off as well as the arms and clips... has a steady base too and a place for a soldering iron... though i dont use it... breaks down flat if necessary got it radio shack for $15 i think...

i clean with 91% inspirational alcohol... is windex better?

you dont work for sd johnson do ya?

hey all- i have sprayed testors gloss on my lastand onlycompleted build to date... and it was OK... but i wanted to know if i could a/b future... and if so... how thin should it be (if at all)? anything special to clean the a/b with afterward?

Thanks Mario... i'll put his into my NATOPS on detailing... and maybe try it on something small in the future... no way am i going to do it on my bug or the GB bird...

........ **speechless** its real... just taken from a distance... right? :blink:

i made mine out of an old counter-top... the counter is my table, and an open door is my fan... scrap sheetrock is my blotter... seriously... like loyd said... simple plywood and a bath-fan... or a box fan IN the window... just make sure you have a blotter and dont use the wall... put an air filter over the fan (which is blowing OUT of the house) to kkep down chemical entry into the motor and i think that will be OK for the mean time

However, Now that I've discovered Oil wash, I'm not going back!! smile.gif could you please explain the oil wash technique? ihave used water colors and pastels ground into water... but not oils... how forgiving are they?

thanks! just saved a 1:48 40 million pricetag!!

as for the streaks... thin your paint a little and use a really good brush for acrylic paints... get it at michaels or at dick blicks... well worth the dough... i used to paint ceramics alot and used nothing but those kids of paints... thin with a little water or liquitex flow-aid... and be patient... put it on, and leave it alone... the streaks will level out or try sanding with4000... VERY lightly

DUDE- looks great... brush paints?! KUDOS! i'll tryto take some pix of my burners for ya... used MM metalizers and some pastels and some clear blue (for heat scorches)... looks OK... will tryto post it hereso youcan see ... that way we'll BOTH know...

unbelievable... they look 1:1... i only WISH i could ever be that good... superb workmanship

got mine a couple days ago... they are SWEEEEEET! thanks for the perk... if i dont screw them up, i KNOW they'll look most excellent! thanks Kim... youre work is first rate!

or try masking the area to be filled with putty with some tamy tape, then use fingernail polish remover to smooth is down... wait about 20 minutes and go to town with the sanding... works well for me hth

yup... green... like an old coke bottle.... due to the 1+ inches thick glass... and everyone is right CAG is commander air group... which is the head cheese of the CVW... carrier fixed-wing wing... v= fixed wing CVA = carrier, fixed-wing, attack... early carriers (Coral Sea, America) CV = carrier, fixed-wing,... old diesel burners (Enterprise (prior to retro-fit), Kitty Hawk) CVN = carrier, fixed-wing, nuke (Nimitz, Roosevelt)

im using MM metalizer 'exhaust' ... it looks good, but dont know if its totally accurate... i remember getting that s**t on my clothes and yes... it was black, sooty, and somewhat very slightly greasy... due to the oil content in the JP5 when i used black pastels the other nite... it came out OK... so i think thats the way i'll go from now on... i use plain black and plain white hard pastels... that way i can mix any shade of grey i want... takes a while butlooks pretty darn close... even for a boot like me

went to the LHS to see if they had any Mr Surfacer cuz i wanted to give it a whirl, and the clown there gave me 'Mr Resin'... whats the diff? can it be used on styrene with out destroying it? or do i need to go back there and thrash him repeatedly about the head and shoulders...

thanks thomas... will also add the clears that you reference in yous...

thanks animal... i ended up just going for it with standard charcoal pastel powder and im OK with the results, although some touch up is needed... wiil try to post pix today so you can see...

got my F14 dry transfer decals from hobbyDECAL, this months issue of FSM and the best part of all?!?!... THE 2005 VICTORIAS SECRET SWIMSUIT CATALOG!!!

no doubt... very informative! now i can experiment on mine thanks again!