Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums

Thommo

Members
  • Content count

    1,753
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Thommo

  • Rank
    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 02/27/1964

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia
  • Interests
    WW2 aircraft models, triathlon, fishing, WW2 history

Recent Profile Visitors

8,711 profile views
  1. A-7E Corsair II - Hasegawa 1/48

    Geez that looks good !
  2. Jadotville Fouga Magister 1/48

    The rear canopy edges show up a bit rough in those pics - though you can't really see with the naked eye - so I'm going to tidy them up by applying thin strips of decal to represent the black rubber seal that line all the canopy edges on the real thing. I started that last night - will be a long tedious process as you have to cut tiny sections of decal to make the rounded corners and curves in some areas. I got the C47 ones too thinking I could use some of them for this build, but they are too big. MAV only do the Fouga decals in 1/72, but I've been emailing with owner of MAV Zane, and he has agreed to scale them up to 1/48 for me.
  3. Jadotville Fouga Magister 1/48

    Paint, sludge wash and flat coat on. Lots of touch-ups around canopy after removing masking, thanks again to the poor adhesion of the Alclad primer. Moreover, it dries quite thick and when it lifts leaves an edge that required tedious and careful sanding. Back to the Tamiya spraycan primer for me from now on! The Alclad Dull Alum is not as good as their other colours (e.g. Dark Alum, Duralum) as it dries with more large flecks in it which need polishing out and flat coating to fade them. Awaiting roundels and fuselage numbers from MAV Decals in South Africa now.
  4. Cleanup After Decal Removal

    Hmmmm, perhaps the silhouette/residue is only in the Future, so if you removed the Future (maybe rubbing with a damp cloth, or perhaps with Windex if you need to go harder to remove it), then re-sprayed the Future it might disappear?
  5. Jadotville Fouga Magister 1/48

    Salvaged the lifting paint after numerous sands, re-undercoat, re-paints. Worst bit was the orange on the nose which lifted if you looked at it sideways. Dull alum Alclad still a little too gritty for my liking in spots so will polish some more with 6000/8000/120000 polishing cloth system I got.
  6. Jadotville Fouga Magister 1/48

    Alcad primer fails patched first with decanted Tamiya spraycan primer, then with the Alcad primer which was shaken a lot more as suggested (i.e minutes rather than 20-30secs). Now have some re-masking and re-spraying of the Alclad dull alum, followed by the Model Master enamel safety orange to do . Hoping I can get a decent save on this one, being the most expensive kit I've ever had!
  7. Alclad White Primer/Filler

    OK that could be the problem! I probably shook it well for 20-30secs beforehand, but not several minutes. I do sand and polish down to 12000 mesh before applying Alclad, as I found it dried quite gritty compared to my usual Tamiya spraycan primer. And I did let it dry for at least a day before applying Alclad, but will remember that for the future. I'm going to try it over the patching I've done with Tamiya primer next....and shake the sh*t out of the bottle before applying!
  8. Alclad White Primer/Filler

    Yes, the only reason I got it was because it said it was a 'micro-filler'' and as I'm doing a NMF, wanted to remove any tiny blemishes before hitting it with dull alum Alclad. Last night I sanded back the lifted areas - which was a challenge as some of them just kept going & going and it was hard to find a stable edge, and got rid of most of the ridges. Then I undercoated it with some decanted Tamiya spraycan primer thru my AB. The ridges are barely visible, but I think I'll try to hide them further with another coat of the Alclad primer. What I found was some areas of the surface which I'd already hit with the Tamiya spraycan primer while searching out seams, the Alclad primer bonds to fine. But over fresh plastic, the bond was very weak. I'd also tested the Alclad primer on an old spare wing before trying it on my model, and it bonded well - so it is definitely an issue with some types of plastic. And until you try on your plastic, you won't know if it will grip or not.
  9. Smooth paint finishes

    I used to polish between all coats, including undercoat of Tamiya spraycan primer with an old piece of t-shirt. For my current build I got a paint polishing cloth set of 3200 to 12000 micromesh and have been using that to good effect. This set is really for polishing paint to a high shine on car models and you are supposed to do it very systematically and carefully starting with 3200 and working through all 8 grades to 12000. However, I just use a few grades (mostly 4000, 8000, 120000) to smooth out the grainy finish. I've been using it on the Alclad too, to remove some of the more shiny pigments on my Fouga as I want a dull finish.
  10. Jadotville Fouga Magister 1/48

    Impending doom - Gonna treat it with kid gloves (and weak masking tape) and hope I can get away with patching the bits that have lifted rather than a full strip and repaint
  11. Alclad White Primer/Filler

    I've done a bit more reading on this. Seems a few others have had adherence problems with the Alclad primer, and the issue seems to be the type of plastic! On some it is bullet-proof, on others (like my Fouga apparently) it adheres poorly. I'm not that keen to strip it all off and start again, so will sand and patch the spots where it lifts, this time using decanted Tamiya spraycan primer through my airbrush, and hope for the best. I hope other sections of paint don't just lift over time in the display cabinet? I guess if that happens, I will finally have a shelf queen for a future SQ GB And from here on in, I'm going back to my good ole Tamiya spraycan primer which has never given me a moments grief.
  12. Anyone had this happen? I usually use Tamyia spraycan primer which holds the surface like a limpet, but thought I'd try the proper Alclad primer before hitting it with Alclad Dull Aluminium. Tamyia masking tape pulled off the primer + topcoats in a few spots. Now I have some patching to do. I also note in a few spots some of the Alclad Dull Alum seems to be sticking to the tape a bit. Went and got some low-tack tape from Bunnings to try to reduce future risk.
  13. Shelf Queens Pt. II GB

    I've never had a shelf queen in my life......unless that gorgeous 20 year old brunette from my college days counts?
  14. Drill bits

    I'd probably do a bit better if I got a small vice to hold steady the bit I'm drilling also. I just hold it in my hand, and use the fingers of the other hand to rotate the tiny fragile drill bit. As you say, the wife asks me something mid-drill, I turn my head = sideways movement of hands = snapped drill bit. Maybe I just need to ban my wife from talking during drilling to solve the problem
×