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About Thommo

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    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 02/27/1964

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    WW2 aircraft models, triathlon, fishing, WW2 history

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  1. Jadotville Fouga Magister 1/48

    I can turn the best fitting kit into the world, into a world of putty
  2. Display Cabinet Ideas

    Got this from Fantastic Furniture - $A128. Could have got it for $99 earlier but the Mrs said they were cheap and tacky.....until I just went out and bought it, put it together, set it up with all my jets in it near the front door......and now she wants me to buy another one
  3. Jadotville Fouga Magister 1/48

    Nose panel, the kit part is already very well detailed, but I added a few more wires/cables with fuse wire and some fine wire out of an old set of earphones. As I'll be leaving the top panel of the nose off and have cut open a couple of small panels on the port side of the nose as if in maintenance mode, some of this will be visible. BTW I've resorted back to using my 15+yo Fujifilm s3500 4Megapixel, 6x optical zoom camera for model pics. I don't understand why, but it just gives consistently better pics of models than my much newer phone camera or the newer Lumix Lecia 10x FullHD, even though the the Fujifilm produces much smaller file sizes?
  4. Which thinners to use for acrylic paint?

    Yes, the only brush painting I do with Tamiya acrylic is small details, nothing large. And as you say, anything larger than about 1cm, it takes some patience to get coverage. I agree re the bonding. I always undercoat with Tamiya spray-can primer - for everything from Tamiya acrylics to Alclad, though with Alclad I'll usually also add a layer of Tamiya acrylic gloss black to give better colour and depth. There was a time I was using a Model Master acrylic 'under coat' (not sure if it could be called a primer?) but it was rubbish, esp with Tamiya acrylics - they would just lift off with masking.
  5. Which thinners to use for acrylic paint?

    I use almost exclusively Tamiya acrylics. I used the Tamiya acrylic thinner until a year ago, but after reading on ARC the Tamiya lacquer thinner (yellow cap) was better, and finally tracked down a bottle of that in a Noosa Toyworld store of all places, and now use it exclusively. It is definitely better - smoother, less airbrush needle clogging. But, I have found it works better with some colours than others, esp if brush-painting. But it does not work with some old Model Master acrylics I have. I have a couple of Vallejo acrylic colours too. Hardly ever use them, but if I do the only thing that seems to work as a thinner is distilled water.
  6. Our local hobby shop closed a few years ago, but a business which builds high-end models for the military and other customers moved to Uralla, which is just 22kms down the New England Highway from where I live. He has now started stocking model making supplies, and only has the good stuff, so that's where I head for my paints, tools etc. instead of buying online. Recently he did a radio interview about his business. He builds a lot of ships for the Navy etc. which sell for tens of thousands of dollars. His business website here, has some pics of models they have built over the years: http://defencemodels.com.au/
  7. 1/48 Iraqi Mig-25 PDS

    What beautiful work. Great photos too - what setup do you use to take your pics?
  8. Photobucket

    Yes, I'm just reducing my pics to below 102KB in Microsoft Paint now and posting them on ARC as an upload, but you lose a fair bit of size and detail so not ideal.
  9. Beginner Airbrushing set-up

    It's painful isn't it. Qld just want it more in my view. I've never really known the consistency of milk either. I put a little thinner in the airbrush cup first with a dropper, then add paint to that progressively by dipping a piece of wooden kebab skewer in the paint (which I also use to stir the paint well first) then swishing it around in the cup with thinner. After doing that 2-3 times, I drag some of the mix up the wall of the cup to make sure it is not too thin (I never seem to get it too thick, just too thin). After a while you learn to gauge it by eye to get the right consistency. I spray almost everything at about 18psi. I clean out the cup and airbrush using General Purpose Lacquer thinner from Bunnings (cheaper than special a/b cleaner, though I do also shoot a bit of that through sometimes). I probably have to strip and clean my Iwata after every 20 or so spray sessions. Not a full strip (i.e. not the trigger mechanism) but just take off the back, take out the needle, take apart the nozzle & tip, clean it all and use a little brush set I got online to clean out the front section. That front section between the cup and where the nozzle screws in tends to get really gunked up esp if using Alclad or metallic paints. I'd skip that Tamiya set and get a better quality metal airbrush.
  10. Bit of an Experiment

    A woman I work with got this kit for $2 at an Op Shop, so I said I'd make it up for her 4yo son. Decided I'd experiment with making it into a little display case. Got the local Menshed to do me up a base, got some old perspex from a little display cabinet I built years ago, built a grass-flocking machine to practice applying grass, bought a perspex scoring tool and learned how to break perspex neatly (lots of attempts - even 3mm needs deep scoring to break well). Pretty basic, but came out OK though I'm not really happy with the perspex case which is a bit scrappy (not that a 4yo will care). Next time I'll buy some new and thinner (2mm not 3mm) and be a bit more careful with cutting and handling as it is very easy to scratch. All a bit of a practice run for my Fouga Magister display. .
  11. Beginner Airbrushing set-up

    I'm just trying to figure out why you called yourself 'thewildscrotum'? Bloody Queenslanders (don't mention State of Origin!) Seriously though, I got back into the hobby nearly 20yrs ago and quickly realised I needed an airbrush to get more realistic finishes. Bought a decent compressor (Sparmax for about $250 back then) and an Aztek A470 airbrush kit (about $200 back then). The compressor has been great, still going well. The Aztek was fickle plastic rubbish, but I persisted with it until 2yrs ago when I finally ditched it and got an Iwata online for about $240 from the Airbrush Megastore in Adelaide....then spent the next 2 yrs wondering why I put up with the Aztek for so long. A decent airbrush is really worth it. Have a look here - http://www.airbrushmegastore.com/ Dual action Iwata entry level airbrush for under $100 (and I bet it will be better than my old Aztek), and compressors for under $250. Don't get a plastic airbrush like an Aztek - they are too hard to maintain and will kill your enjoyment of airbrushing. A metal one like the Iwata can easily be pulled apart and cleaned properly.
  12. I used this stuff http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Static-Grass-Flock-3mm-Dark-Green-280-ml-Scenery-Grass-diorama-bases-/281400186344?hash=item4184c215e8
  13. 1/48 Horten Ho.229 Zoukei Mura

    OMG that is epic!
  14. Jadotville Fouga Magister 1/48

    Few more downsized pics
  15. I just made one of these. $A8 for the insect zapper from Ebay, $3 for the tea strainer from Coles. Works great....though I need to airbrush that bright green grass a little to tone it down. I can also confirm if you accidentally touch the tea strainer while the Go Button is pressed, you will get a kick like an electric fence (ask me how I know ). How two pissy little AA batteries can give you that much kick is beyond my electrical knowledge, but that's what happens.