jrallman Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 Hello again, hello... Well, the 188 is done so next in line is my Dora. This is the Tamiya kit, the non JV 44 boxing, but a newer boxing of the original kit with the corrected ejector holes in the center of the bottom of the wing. I am adding some aftermarket, as you can see in the pic. The pit is pretty decent, so I am only adding a TD seat and probably some etch rudder pedals. The wheel well probably was open in the middle, so I am using a corrected wheel well and engine sub from Parts-R-Parts. The exhausts will be replaced by Quickboost resin exhausts. The cowl gun bulges are a bit overdone, the prop and spinner aren't quite right, and the wheels are too small, so I picked up the Eagle Parts correction set that replaces each of those parts. I am using Aeromaster decals Late Doras part 5 and doing W.Nr. 500568 likely from III./KG(J) 27. I dig the mix of color on this one and the cool white and green check fuse band. should be another fun build, though probably not as quick as my 188 since Splash is starting soon and I have a Grumman Goose for that one. Thanks for looking, and hopefully I will get a start in the next few days. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ThatJeffGuy Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 "exact spiral design unknown....use your discretion" I think my own discretion would have me leave it off...I have a hard time with prop spirals :blink: I was wondering why I have a different part number for my QuickBoost stacks until I realized mine is 1/32 .. doh! Have fun with it Jay! :blink: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted November 15, 2006 Author Share Posted November 15, 2006 I think my own discretion would have me leave it off...I have a hard time with prop spirals :blink: My thoughts were running along the same lines. Maybe I will try the decal once, and if i screw it up (as i usually do) I will just use my "discretion" and go without. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HistnScale Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 My thoughts were running along the same lines. Maybe I will try the decal once, and if i screw it up (as i usually do) I will just use my "discretion" and go without. Jay, Here's a method you can try on spiral decals. Using a new blade, go around the inside radius of the spiral and cut a slice from the inside edge to about the middle of the decal. Spacing the slices is a judgement call based on how tight the curve is going to be, you can always add a few more slice during application if the decal is still not wanting to lay down. Go ahead and apply the decal using a wet paint brush to get the spiral located and flat. The slices should relieve the the radius of the curve and let the decal go flat. When you get the decal set, flood it with a "hot" decal solven like Solvaset. Set aside to dry for a day. Then go back and trim out any areas over holes and you should be done. This is the method that I've been using lately and have been having very good results with it. HTH, Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ThatJeffGuy Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 Dave, that sounds like a good idea...I might give that a hook the next time I encounter a spiral...which I think will be forthcoming on my own Dora My biggest problem seems to be that the strip breaks while I'm trying to put it down. I sometimes wonder if it wouldn't be easier to do it in small sections anyway....which would almost replicate the same behaviour as your idea. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted November 15, 2006 Author Share Posted November 15, 2006 I have the same problem as Jeff, but I think I will give your method a try Dave and see if it works for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted November 16, 2006 Share Posted November 16, 2006 (edited) I've found it a lot easier to paint the spinner white, cut out the decal spiral and trace the shape onto Tamiya tape, cut the shape out with a sharp knife, apply the Tamiya tape "spiral" to the spinner, paint the spinner black (or appropriate color) and remove the tape. It takes a bit longer but it works every time. And I can't wait to see your work on that D-9. That's a very interesting color/markings scheme. Edited November 16, 2006 by David Walker Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted November 16, 2006 Author Share Posted November 16, 2006 Dave, that sounds like a way that is harder to screw up than using the decal. I will have to ponder which method to try. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted November 17, 2006 Author Share Posted November 17, 2006 (edited) Some progress shots for you all. Installed the TD seat and painted the cockpit and IP. Still need to add PE rudder pedals and the stick then give it a wash. I cut the front firewall off since the engine plug has the fire wall molded as part of that piece, it will replace the firewall on the cockpit piece once everything is installed. The resin wheel well inserts are in and painted. They fit pretty well with the kit parts, only minor cutting to make it fit in. I still have to paint the guns and give it all a wash. The fuse is together and I have cut a massive gaping hole under the cowl gun cover so that I can adjust the position of the engine once I install the wing so that the firewall lines up with the main spar. Resin engine with a coat of steel. I will plumb it some and pick a few details with paint, paint the ammo boxes, and wash it all. Here is the kit cowl gun cover (front and darker gray) and the resin cowl gun cover (back lighter gray). Subtle difference but the kit part is just a bit overdone and, on the model, it looks kind of bulbous (sp?). the resin part has some nice crisp rivet and fastener detail that is lacking or soft on the kit part as well. I now need opinions from you all. Cowl flaps open or closed. I think I might like the look of them open better, but it is also more work since two of the flaps that are open dont open on the real thning and will need to be repositioned, and I would probably add flap actuator rods as well, since they are pretty visible. Anyways, input is welcome! Edited November 17, 2006 by jrallman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ThatJeffGuy Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 I now need opinions from you all. Cowl flaps open or closed. I think I might like the look of them open better, but it is also more work since two of the flaps that are open dont open on the real thning and will need to be repositioned, and I would probably add flap actuator rods as well, since they are pretty visible. Anyways, input is welcome! Looking great so far Jay :blink: Wow, flap actuator rods in 1/48 would drive me bonkers...but I'm sure you're up for it. I guess you're doing gear position indicators too then? If you do then I will absolutely have to do them on my 1/32 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted November 17, 2006 Author Share Posted November 17, 2006 Jeff - yes I had planned on the gear indicators as well. touche! hee hee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ThatJeffGuy Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Jeff - yes I had planned on the gear indicators as well. touche! hee hee Back when I was a rabid golfer I wasn't very good but I went out a lot. I found I always golfed better when I was with other people who were better golfers. I find this place is a lot like that. But those tiny things might make me throw a club Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted November 17, 2006 Author Share Posted November 17, 2006 well, its a good thing that i make golf clubs then too, eh? I was inspired to do the cowl flap rods after seeing Bruce Radebaugh's work on some doras. Also, I misspoke about some flaps not opening, I meant some of the flaps have no rods and are opened by the adjacent flaps. should be fun t feed several of those to the carpet monster, if I decide to do open flaps that is. still unsure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bilkeau Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Looks like another winner-in-waiting, Jay. I've got a set of Quickboost exhausts for my D-9 too, and also the MDC upgrade set, which includes a new de-bulged breech cover so we can avoid the sadly predictable "My Dora's got t!ts!" jokes. The MDC engine/wheel bay correction set has 14 parts plus wire for the plumbing and a pair of fine tube "gun barrels", but being firmly of the opinion that models aren't made to be turned over, I wish that I'd got something a little simpler (ie quicker) to build. I'd vote for "cowl flaps open" to avoid that unsightly "blobby-nosed Dora" syndrome. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted November 17, 2006 Author Share Posted November 17, 2006 wow 14 parts? Mine came with 2 - the wheel well and the engine! Unfortunately on inspection it seems one of the exhaust stacks broke off in transit, so I will have to CA it back in place. it look far enough down that it wont show once installed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wingman47 Posted November 17, 2006 Share Posted November 17, 2006 Looking good jrallmam, I like your choice of markings I will do that scheme someday. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted November 18, 2006 Author Share Posted November 18, 2006 (edited) well, i decided to go ahead and do the cowl flaps open. even though it is more work for me, i actually am feeling a little masochistic on this build, so i did some work on the actuator rods tonight. also started work on the engine plumbing but i will wait till it is further along to show some pics of that. installed rudder pedals and control stick in the cockpit. i will wash that and the wheel well next before installing the instrument panel. anyways, here is the work on the actuators so far. first i marked the center of the flaps that have rods on the fuse, then transfered that mark to the nose under the cowl. I drilled rather large holes for each one to give it some play when i attach the cowl to the nose. I next drilled small holes about half way through the cowl flaps. then I attached some .02" styrene rod to each hole on the flaps with a drop of tenax. the tenax is currently setting up and i will add a drop of CA to each connection once the tenax is fully dry, just to sure things up. once that is dry, ill take a pic with it dry fitted just so you can see what it looks like. thanks for looking! Edit: it is all dry now, so here are some shots dry fitted together, with the cowl gun cover blutaced on also. notice on the left side (and the bottom too, but no pic of that side) that there is a flap that has no actuator as those are extended by the ones beside it. not so on the right side though. Edited November 18, 2006 by jrallman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mattcooke Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 Looking great,Jay.Very nice work so far.I like it. Daniel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted November 18, 2006 Share Posted November 18, 2006 Amazing work with those cowl flaps. That's extremely effective looking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Mikester Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 Looking good, Jay. Glad to see somebody is getting some modeling in! :blink: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted November 19, 2006 Author Share Posted November 19, 2006 thanks guys. hey Mike, did you get the pics of the 188 from that thread? It kinda got burried to a later page pretty quickly. (Jes, looking in your direction with your assembly line modeling the entire luftwaffe ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted November 19, 2006 Author Share Posted November 19, 2006 (edited) I painted the radiator and gave it a light wash of smoke to bring out the detail a bit. the last shot it a dry fit on the fuse with the cowl ring dry fitted as well. any thoughts on the color inside the cowl? RLM 02? RLM 66? red/brown primer? something else entirely? Edited November 19, 2006 by jrallman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Mikester Posted November 19, 2006 Share Posted November 19, 2006 hey Mike, did you get the pics of the 188 from that thread No, still trying to get caught up on all the threads. I'll take a look-see. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted November 20, 2006 Author Share Posted November 20, 2006 I have finished plumbing and wiring the engine. It is not accurate as far as the hoses and wires and which goes where, but it looks sufficiently busy and something similar to what the real thing looked like. The second shot is a test fit of the engine in the fuse and the wings to the fuse, so you can see what the engine will look like through the wheel wells. The cockpit is done as well and ready to be installed along with the engine and wing. I need to sand the front edge of the bottom wing a touch to make it flush with the bottom of the fuse in front of it since it is a bit lower due to sanding. thanks for looking! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
moeggo Posted November 20, 2006 Share Posted November 20, 2006 that wheel well awsome! Love it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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