Tamiya Basic Putty

[Yarm6]

Hi All-

I just got a tube of Tamiya Basic Putty and was looking for some tips and suggestions on applying it (mixed with Nail Polish remover, or lacquer thinner?) and sanding/feathering it. Basically anything.

I normally use a big tube of red “Bondo†and that is applied and feathered nicely, but wanted to try this Tamiya putty. It seems nice, with little bits of metal and such and sanding seems ok, but everyone seems to love it and something just doesn’t seem ‘right’ when I’m using it. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Dave

[Julien (UK)]

No real tips I just use in place of Sqn green which I was using before for small jobs. I do find for anything larger that you get a bit of shrinkage. However for the smaller jobs this is the best putty I have used.

I use it straight from the tube and wipe it away with a cotton bud (que tip) damp with acetone (naip polish remover would work).

Julien

Edited November 28, 2006 by Julien (UK)

[ScottD]

I've never had a problem feathering it, just have to let it setup for a couple hours. If you want to thin/remove it, Denatured Alcohol is your friend with Tamiya Putty and other type of putties.

[///Mflossin]

I've never had a problem feathering it, just have to let it setup for a couple hours. If you want to thin/remove it, Denatured Alcohol is your friend with Tamiya Putty and other type of putties.

Scott,

Do you wait a few hours to feather with the denatured alcohol or do you do it immediately?

[ScottD]

Scott,

Do you wait a few hours to feather with the denatured alcohol or do you do it immediately?

Once its hard to the touch, which is normally anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour after applying, depending on thickness etc..

[Paul T]

Well`sir....this is what I do.

For seams such as fuslage joins,I do a bit of prep work first ,if needed ,such as if there is a step between parts or just general uneveness.I may scrape (an exacto blade is good ) or sand with 400 grit wet/dry to get things on the same plane or close to being level with each other (gaps are not fussed with too much,unless over a 64th of an inch or so ,then I will fill these with plastic card/styrene strip and glue.Then sand to level)

When things are reasonable, I then apply Tamiya Tape strips on either side of the join to be filled, along the entire length,about an 1/16 -1/8 " from the seam.I then use a small metal spatula (looks like a small putty knife ,very thin stainless steel ,comming to a rounded point,much like a miniature masons trowel)and apply the putty in long fluid motions ,as the stuff sets up pretty quick.The reason for the tape,is to prevent putty from getting to area you don`t want it.......just along the seam......much less cleanup.After the putty is applied, remove the tape and let the putty cure (I wait a couple of hours....too soon and it clogs the sand paper and make a poor job)

I send sand ,staring with 400 and then 600 and 800.I will use 1000 to polish the final plastic and blent it all together.

On deeper sink marks, you may need to make several application due to shrinkage....but you should be able see this.

When it comes to filling wing to fuselage joins ,I again lay down some T.tape along the length of both sides of the seam, apply the filler ,remove tape,let sit for a few minute and ,using a Q-tip/cotton bud soaked in nail polish remover (make sure it contain acetone,as some are acetone free......and there are some with lemon scent , these are OK)begine to wipe away the exess putty,changing buds often.Be careful not to be too aggressive or you risk removing too much.Just wipe away until smooth and let cure.The nice thing about the Q-tip/nail polish technique ,is it leaves a nice fine "fillet" between the fuselage and wing.

Blending parts such as radomes/nosecones to fuslage joins is pretty well the same routine as stated above.On those bigger imperfections, do not UNDER apply the putty , keep it thick.....as this stuff sands very nicely.

A note on masking over puttied /painted areas.At times ,there is a risk that masking tape (even Tamiya Tape)can pull pieces of putty from the plastic ,to carefull removal may be need.It just happened to me yesyerday :D

Also, if you want to make a thin paste,add a little acetone to the putty...it acts much like surfacers (500,1000 and Mr.dissolved putty) abd may be apllied by brush.

HTH

Paul T

[Yarm6]

Wow, thanks for the info guys.

Paul, thanks for the detailed description. I think I might be under applying the putty for fear that it won't sand well or work right.

Thanks again everyone

[Paul T]

fear not the putty.

That`s why I love it ,it sands very easily and dries fast.

Of course ,I also use epoxy putty.Very usefull and like Tamiya & Q-tips w/nailpolish remover.....epoxy putty and a finger or Q-tip dabbed in isopropyl alcohol .....same effect.

The epoxy putty I use (Aves 2 part) sticks or bonds extremely well to plastic/styrene and cures rock hard.....but sands great.

Paul T

[///Mflossin]

Thanks again for the tips guys. My big concern was how long to wait after applying the putty to use the Q-tip technique. I think that 5-10 minutes should do the trick. I am about 40% my build and I am excited about the finish line (not getting too far ahead of myself!).

Thanks to this great forum...most of the build has been a breeze!

[Yarm6]

fear not the putty.

Hahha. That's great.

Thanks again for the tips. I think another problem is I try to feather out the putty with Nail Polish Remover too soon. It sounds like I should apply the putty and wait about an hour, and then go back. I apply the putty and use the Q-Tip technique right away. It seems to remove the putty.

I also tried sanding the Tamiya putty after i put it on (no Q-Tip Technique here) and let it cure fully overnight. It did sand nicely Paul.

Thanks,

Dave

[Paul T]

Hahha. That's great.

Thanks again for the tips. I think another problem is I try to feather out the putty with Nail Polish Remover too soon. It sounds like I should apply the putty and wait about an hour, and then go back. I apply the putty and use the Q-Tip technique right away. It seems to remove the putty.

I also tried sanding the Tamiya putty after i put it on (no Q-Tip Technique here) and let it cure fully overnight. It did sand nicely Paul.

Thanks,

Dave

Like anything else in this hobby ,it takes a few tries and experimentation to get these techniques to work for you.

Happy modellling

Paul T