nautilas Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 does anyone know of a good glue for etched brass as i am hopeless at soldering. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alex.B Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 Any cyanoacrylate based fast-acting glue! Or, if you need to do some adjustments after put the pieces in position.. you can use 5 min epoxy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris_UK Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 I personally use Zap a gap .. i have 2 bottles , one of which i leave the top off ( this makes it thicker over time) and the other i always seal ( keeps it thinner ) . Some people say Gator glue works ... my personal experience , i would never buy it again !. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pigsty Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 I personally use Zap a gap .. i have 2 bottles , one of which i leave the top off ( this makes it thicker over time) and the other i always seal ( keeps it thinner ) Super glue thickens with the slightest exposure to air because it sets by reaction with water (water vapour in the air, of course). I bought a really useful bottle with a brush in the cap about 18 months ago, capped it religiously every time I used it, and it's still getting thicker. The only way to keep it runny is never to open it. On the plus side, I won't need to buy the thick stuff again, not now that I have a second bottle of thin stuff and can let the old one keep going over ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nautilas Posted May 22, 2009 Author Share Posted May 22, 2009 [Thanks for the info do you think glue will be strong enough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris_UK Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 If you are gluing p.e to plastic then the answer is yes . If you are asking to glue p.e to p.e , i personally dont know as i dont use p.e that much as acrylic paint doesn't take well to photo etch . Hope that helps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Robert K Posted May 22, 2009 Share Posted May 22, 2009 (edited) To keep your superglues from thickening, put them in a glas jar with a lid and tos in some of those silica packages you get with electronic devices. Gators Grip works with larger flat P.E. part that you can glue on to a flat surface. Rob. Edited May 24, 2009 by Robert K Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kenlilly106 Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 (edited) Technically CA doesn't react with water in order to start setting. [cue chemistry lesson] The polymers in CA want to start bonding with each other almost as soon as they're manufactured, which is a problem since the manufacturer wants the product usable when the customer buys it, and not in one solid lump. To prevent the polymerization, manufacturers add a very weak acid to the mix, this acid prevents the linking by sitting in between the polymers. Water or an alkaline substance will neutralize the acid, causing the reaction to start and the glue to harden. This is also why a lot of the cheaper brands perform poorly, the manufacturers do not refine the polymer mix to a high degree so they have to dope the mix with acids and other chemicals to increase its shelf life. That's one of the reasons CA sticks to human skin almost instantly, we have a thin layer of moisture on our skin at all times. [/end chemistry lesson] Ken Edited May 24, 2009 by kenlilly106 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pbhawkin Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 And if I may add a medical perspective to CA in eyes. just leave it!! Yes, thats right do nothing, certainly don't force them open or use ANY form of solvent/debonder. The skin and eye surface shed their outer layers over a few days and by the end of a week the CA just falls off and NO damage is done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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