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Frankhenrylee

Repairing old decal sheet

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Allright guys, I need some help (imagine that!). I've got a decal sheet that is showing some cracking. I've heard about some kind of decal paper that maybe you can put over the top of this. Should I say screw it and buy an aftermarket sheet. I was wondering if this will make my decals really thick which I hate. I really try to make the decals appear to have no edge. What is the strongest decal softener and how do you fix a decal sheet? Also, what are some of the good decal companies?

Edited by Frankhenrylee

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There's a sliquid made by Microscale called decal mask. You spray it on. When you cut to apply you have to trim close to the decals as possible as it basically creates one big carrier sheet. Just my 2 cents, if decals are starting to crack, I don't deal with them. I get new ones.

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There's a sliquid made by Microscale called decal mask. You spray it on. When you cut to apply you have to trim close to the decals as possible as it basically creates one big carrier sheet. Just my 2 cents, if decals are starting to crack, I don't deal with them. I get new ones.

The Microscale stuff is called Liquid Decal Film, you can get it here:

http://www.bare-metal.com/Microscale-Model...g-Products.html

To repair an old decal sheet you can spray it with a clear finish like Krylon or if you can find it Testors Decal Bonder.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...LXFLC5&P=FR

I've seen this stuff a Hobby Lobby.

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Quick comment, if you use the Testors stuff out of the spray bomb, I would decant it into a jar, then run the stuff thru an airbrush. That stuff is pretty thin and it comes outta the spray can like gang-busters.

This is from personal experience... too thick of a coat can produce carrier film that is tough for decal solvents work on and get in the panels lines.

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Yes, I have saved decals with Micro liquid decal film by preparing the decals to be saved (cutting from sheet and having everything else ready) and brushing over the printed portion with loaded brush and one stroke if possible. It will look thick at first but it quickly evaporates into a thin film. Apply the treated decal ASAP once the film has dried, as it can get too dry as well. The bottle recommends within 20 minutes. I will coat one, apply it to the model, coat the next, apply, etc.

Another saver is to apply decals with future, but have to look out for buildup. Usually wick away excess when decal is drying in place.

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I would also recommend getting new decals and not using the one's that are cracking. The only time I would advise trying to save them is if... AND ONLY IF, you are willing to deal with the 'issues' that may arise if they don't work as intended. I have seen people screw up months and months of fabulous modeling work trying to apply old decals they were 'hoping' would work... some worked some didn't...

/shrug... up to you but I wouldn't use them as I spend way too much time on building up these suckers ... only screw it up in the final leg? Not! ;-P

-Greg

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