Joel_W Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Dave, If you're going to use floods, go into your camera menu and change the light source. This will also allow the chip to compensate somewhat for the under exposure issue. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davegee1 Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Dave, If you're going to use floods, go into your camera menu and change the light source. This will also allow the chip to compensate somewhat for the under exposure issue. Joel Thanks, Joel. I have a decent camera that should be able to get some better quality pics, a Nikon D5100, but I'll have to research how to change some of the points you mention. cheers davegee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davegee1 Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Dave, The white circle on the rudder of the P-38 looks really good. All the details show perfectly. Joel I tried cutting my own circles out of tape, but I got just a little bleed through and just went with vinyl paint masks my friend at the sign shop made to make them perfect. I think these look better than if I tried using a decal. davegee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 (edited) Dave, You have a great camera. I shoot with a Nikon D-90 and a few lenses. Your camera has a menu that you bring up on the LCD screen. the 1st column should have a Icon of a camera, highlight and go into that menu. You'll see White Balance on it. Go to WB and then scroll down to the type of lights your using. Click ok, and your set to go. Just remember to change it back when you're done. Take a few pictures and look at them on your LCD screen. Set your exposure meter to spot, so that the camera chip is exposing for the mode onlyl, not the entire frame. If you have the option on the 5100 to shoot in RAW do it. You should be processing your pictures in View NX2 that came with your camera. RAW will allow you to do more editing. Then when you save the pictures, just save them as JPEG files. </p><p>Joel<br></p> Edited February 19, 2014 by Joel_W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Old Blind Dog Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Nice collection. Lovely work! cheers Old Blind Dog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davegee1 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 Dave, You have a great camera. I shoot with a Nikon D-90 and a few lenses. Your camera has a menu that you bring up on the LCD screen. the 1st column should have a Icon of a camera, highlight and go into that menu. You'll see White Balance on it. Go to WB and then scroll down to the type of lights your using. Click ok, and your set to go. Just remember to change it back when you're done. Take a few pictures and look at them on your LCD screen. Set your exposure meter to spot, so that the camera chip is exposing for the mode onlyl, not the entire frame. If you have the option on the 5100 to shoot in RAW do it. You should be processing your pictures in View NX2 that came with your camera. RAW will allow you to do more editing. Then when you save the pictures, just save them as JPEG files. </p><p>Joel<br></p> Hi Joel: good info there. Not to bog this thread down with camera topics, but I did go to the white balance, for instance, and it showed "Auto" and I could not adjust it. Any ideas? I have a Nikon 5100 for dummies that I can look through and try to learn some more of these techniques. I get good results on things I shoot, but I haven't ventured into these areas very much yet... davegee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 <p> Dave, you usually scroll down the menu to select the WB you want. Either check you manual, or the 5100 book for Dummies. The mod you're in ei: Auto, A, P, M makes a difference as to what you can select or not select. I shoot 75% of the time in A, the rest of the time I'm in P or M. I never use Auto as you have literally no control.  Also for macro type of work, you need to change your exposure meter setting to spot, so that the exposure is just for the model. The default is matrix/full screen.  Auto lets the camera think for you. I almost never use it, as there are situations where it's wrong. Your pictures are a perfect example. </p><p>Joel<br> </p> Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davegee1 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) <p> Dave, you usually scroll down the menu to select the WB you want. Either check you manual, or the 5100 book for Dummies. The mod you're in ei: Auto, A, P, M makes a difference as to what you can select or not select. I shoot 75% of the time in A, the rest of the time I'm in P or M. I never use Auto as you have literally no control.  Also for macro type of work, you need to change your exposure meter setting to spot, so that the exposure is just for the model. The default is matrix/full screen.  Auto lets the camera think for you. I almost never use it, as there are situations where it's wrong. Your pictures are a perfect example. </p><p>Joel<br> </p> Hi Joel: thanks for the info. I agree with you on the use (or not) of the auto mode. I didn't use that on this shoot, I used aperture priority with an F of about 16 to get greater depth of field. I have found in the past that if I don't do that, some parts of the model are in focus, others are not, spoiling the shot. I have since photoshopped these photos to brighten them up some,and reposted the changes. davegee Edited February 19, 2014 by davegee1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 <p> Dave,</p><p> WTG. I do all my macro model pictures in Aperture mode, and use an F stop of F22-29. </p><p>Joel</p><p><br> </p> Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scooby Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Dave. the Tamiya P-51B is an old kit, but it builds up quite well, Joel The Tamiya P-51B isnt really an old kit, it was one of Tamiya's first new toolings in 1/48. At least not by my definition of old. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scooby Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Dave, like many small companies, they always were strapped for cash. They outsourced their mold designs, and injection process as well. They were basically a design studio. One of the key members died, and the company folded shortly after that. They, like many other new model companies had their share of poor kits through their learning curve. Their Vindicator certainly has issues, but I'd kill for one of the later versions. Their Helldiver was and is still considered their worst kit. Again, I'd kill for one as it's the only 1/48 scale out there. Joel All of Accurate Mininatures kits were gems. Nothing they produced was a poor kit. The Vindicator had the injection problem on the fuselage although they sent out replacements once the process was fixed. The Helldiver is a rebox of the Revell mold, it isn't there kit at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 All of Accurate Mininatures kits were gems. Nothing they produced was a poor kit. The Vindicator had the injection problem on the fuselage although they sent out replacements once the process was fixed. The Helldiver is a rebox of the Revell mold, it isn't there kit at all. Scooby, thanks for that clarification on the Helldiver kit. I have built a few Accurate Miniature kits, and have a few more in my small but selective stash. I do prize all of them, and tend to collect them from time to time. They were certainly at the cutting edge of kit design during their tenure. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davegee1 Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) Hi All: I got the decals in the mail today, so I finished up the P-38J. I'll attach a few pics. This is painted in the colors of an aircraft flown by Captain Thomas White, 55th FG, Wormingford, England in WWII. For a kit I got on ebay that was almost 50 years old, the basic quality of the kit was such that it will work for the eighth airplane of this collection for the Littleton Museum. Off it goes into the box and I'll take it over on Wednesday. Fun project, perhaps I'll do some others down the road... davegee Edited February 22, 2014 by davegee1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 <p> Dave, </p><p> The old Monogram  P-38 really came out better then I expected. Nicely done. </p><p>Joel</p><p><br> </p> Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davegee1 Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Thanks, Joel. I figured as long as I had already bought it, I might as well give it a go to see if I could make it presentable enough with the rest of the model collection. I think it will be ok. Thanks for the tips on the camera settings. I found the various things you recommended on my camera for shooting these pictures. I think they came out a lot better than the previous ones. At least it is something to build on to continue making better photos of models going forward. cheers davegee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Dave, the photos look 100% better. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davegee1 Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 Hi Joel: I'll try experimenting with those settings you recommended for future models. I was looking at the pics of your finished aircraft and was impressed with the faded look of the Dauntless, Helldiver, and Avenger. I was wondering if you have larger pics online, or techniques how you did this. Looks pretty realistic. Davegee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 Hi Joel: I'll try experimenting with those settings you recommended for future models. I was looking at the pics of your finished aircraft and was impressed with the faded look of the Dauntless, Helldiver, and Avenger. I was wondering if you have larger pics online, or techniques how you did this. Looks pretty realistic. Davegee Dave, Thank you for those more then kind words. There are build blogs for the SBD-5 Dauntless, and the TBD-1 Devastator right here @ ARCin the In Progress sub forum. The P-61 has just pictures of the finished aircraft. The Avenger & Skyraider was built before I joined ARC. I'm also a very active member of Aeroscale, which is part of Kit Makers Network, and there are full build blogs for all the aircraft pictured in my signature except the Avenger and Skyraider which preceded that join date as well. As for the paint fading, I do that with my airbrush. I start off just painting the model. Then in the case of the Blue/Gray top color I add some gray and spot coat it in a random pattern. Then I add some White to the mix and spot coat it in a blotchy pattern. I just keep on going till it looks about right. I only do that on surfaces that will receive direct sunlight and ocean spray. Then I gloss, then decal, then gloss again. Then I start my weathering process with is mostly to dirty up the aircraft. Then I apply a light thinned coat of light earth to blend everything together. It sounds way more complicated then it is. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davegee1 Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 (edited) Dave, Thank you for those more then kind words. There are build blogs for the SBD-5 Dauntless, and the TBD-1 Devastator right here @ ARCin the In Progress sub forum. The P-61 has just pictures of the finished aircraft. The Avenger & Skyraider was built before I joined ARC. I'm also a very active member of Aeroscale, which is part of Kit Makers Network, and there are full build blogs for all the aircraft pictured in my signature except the Avenger and Skyraider which preceded that join date as well. As for the paint fading, I do that with my airbrush. I start off just painting the model. Then in the case of the Blue/Gray top color I add some gray and spot coat it in a random pattern. Then I add some White to the mix and spot coat it in a blotchy pattern. I just keep on going till it looks about right. I only do that on surfaces that will receive direct sunlight and ocean spray. Then I gloss, then decal, then gloss again. Then I start my weathering process with is mostly to dirty up the aircraft. Then I apply a light thinned coat of light earth to blend everything together. It sounds way more complicated then it is. Joel Hi Joel: thanks again for those tips. I mostly deal in large rc planes, everything I used to fly are now in museums after I finished competitions I wanted to do with them. You mentioned Aeroscale, I used to submit some blogs on that one, very good site. I don't know if you know Nigel Julian from the UK, great guy. We are "simpatico" on P-47s and the 56th Fighter Group of WWII. I'll supply a link to a blog some time ago: http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=features&file=view&artid=2379 there are pics of several flyable P-47s I built over the years. The black P-47M (always a source of controversy with modelers about its true color: it was BLACK, was a replica of a plane flown by a very good friend of mine, Russ Kyler, who passed away last December at the age of 89. I am always impressed with plastic modelers and what they do with such tiny details on their models. I've built plastic models since I was 5, but I marvel at what I see on sites like this and Aeroscale. I think my models look pretty good, better than the pictures show, but I am blown away when I see some of the works even on display at my local hobby store. Keep up the great work, guys!! davegee Edited February 23, 2014 by davegee1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davegee1 Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 Just a quick update: all eight aircraft arrived safely at the museum yesterday. One of the shops that does work for the museum is going to make some special stands for at least some of them for when they go on display. I'll put some more pics on this thread when they are put on display this summer. thanks to all who have had an interest or placing a comment on this thread. cheers davegee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Dave, congratulations on your display. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davegee1 Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 Dave, congratulations on your display. Joel Thanks, I look forward to seeing how they put them up on display. davegee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davegee1 Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 Thanks, I look forward to seeing how they put them up on display. davegee Hey Joel: just curious if you have anything to do with Grumman, or live near there, or something.I see their logo on your threads. It is one of my all-time favorite aerospace companies, maybe even THE top one. They went from all their major "cat" building for decades to the Lunar Module that put men on the moon! The Grummies were something else!! They sure drove NASA crazy back in the day! cheers davegee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 ... The Grummies were something else!! They sure drove NASA crazy back in the day! Grummanites... Well, that's what we called ourselves... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davegee1 Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 Grummanites... Well, that's what we called ourselves... Hi David: what kind or work or projects did you do at Grumman? I have built two LMs for museums, a 1/16 and 1/6 scale LM, and have also been on the LM-2 restoration team in 2009 at the NASM. I have always been extremely impressed with everything Grumman, and loved the stories of the "Grummanites" who did such an incredible job in what they did. It might have rankled the brass at NASA sometimes, but they delivered in spades!! Maybe NASA just didn't understand New Yorkers! (lol) davegee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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