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About dnl42

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    Life Member (Mon-Key Handler)

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    The OC...south of La-La Land.
  1. Ready for decals. I thought the lighter band across the wing bottom was much stronger when I was spraying, but HaHen shows it far lighter. Oh well, I need to bring photos with me when I'm spraying.
  2. I always add anything that sticks out at the end. Cuts down on the random hits. I'll drill the holes before painting and then either stick a toothpick in the hole or clean it out later with a pin vise depending on the phase of the moon. A AOA indicator, like in the F-16, is robust and I'll mount and paint in place. BTW, the Master pitots are a·maz·ing! My first was for the MiG-21MF. The DUAS vanes had "pins" that mounted into holes drilled into the pitot. So much nicer than the Academy metal pitot, which expected you to butt-join the DUAS vanes. Yoiks! I just recently got the pitot and mg set for the Mi-24, and Master improved them even further, with a 1-piece DUAS vane assembly.
  3. I use Linux, so not a windows thing... While I want Steve to ditch this horrible ad, I do want him to enjoy the revenue from non-abusive ads...
  4. That freaking ad was doing it again to me on another thread.. My typing kept getting interrupted and lost until I closed the ad shown at the top of this thread. Adding INSULT TO INJURY, that freaking ad was at the top of THIS POST TOO! Seriously, that ad is BROKEN! Sorry for the shouting, but this is REALLY ANNOYING!
  5. Because of the dire warnings about resin dust, I never mill or grind resin with power tools, only hand tools. A Zona razor saw will get through large pour blocks quite easily.
  6. A 1/35 diorama of the CN Tower with Skycrane, as shown in the picture above, would be about 52' tall... Wouldn't have to force perspective too much in such a diorama.
  7. This howto at Flory Models is what I used to do this seat for an Albatros D.III
  8. I got 1/2, 1/4, and 3/16in rods in 24in lengths from onlinemetals.com. They also have 1/8, 3/4, and 1in diameters. A single rod worked on my X-37B (mounted on the bottom) and an F-16 (mounted in the exhaust). For the F-4F, I'm torn between 2 rods because there are 2 exhausts or 1 rod in 1 exhaust because it's only a mounting fixture. Yes, I'm overthinking this...
  9. Oh, that's going to be an outstanding display! I've been truly enjoying in-flight displays lately! Are you going to use those wooden dowels or some other material, like perhaps acrylic rods? Also, what are your thoughts on one or two mounting rods?
  10. Bravo! Well done.
  11. Steve B, Larry's absolutely correct. Those particular ads are way too disruptive. As Larry pointed out, they steal the focus and complete screw up typing. -- dnl
  12. I put a flat on the canopy. The shape isn't right, but that's a function of the canopy shape. Question for the experts. The HaHen instructions claims RAL 9007, Graualuminum for what I thought was heat-stained bare metal . Does that make sense? Also, what's the right radome color? Depending on the photo, it looks like 36231, 36118, or 36081 could be reasonable...
  13. Wow, that looks quite good! I find Minicraft can range from good to horrible. From the photos above, it doesn't look like fit on the fuselage was too bad. How was this overall? Also, how were the Draw decals?
  14. Amen brother! But, to be sure, there is a difference between a 3D-printed part and something made of, say, rods and sheet. I know some of the resin masters of my 1/350 YMS were 3D-printed because I could see the layers, even though there were quite fine. To be sure, the details were stunning, and I do wonder how they might have been done without 3D printing. I recently purchased my first 3D kit, a 1/35 twin 40mm Bofors Naval mount. The details and complexity are amazing: But, they will need some clean-up: