Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt

dnl42

Members
  • Content Count

    3,580
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About dnl42

  • Rank
    Life Member (Mon-Key Handler)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The OC...south of La-La Land.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'm currently reading Normandy '44 by James Holland. It's been very inclusive of all sides, both from overall viewpoints during the preparations on both sides to battle-specific comparisons. It's well documented and well written.
  2. Would that Tiger be an F-5 or F11F? The others mentioned give me hope for some 1/48 F11F love...
  3. Tamiya v. Airfix 1/48 P-51D is old v. new. @TheRealMrEd has a good idea, kits of the same subject regardless of era or manufacturer. Perhaps you could call it "This v. That", which indeed includes "Old v. New".
  4. https://www.nytsyn.com/archives/photos/1269725.html https://www.nytsyn.com/archives/photos/1103132.html
  5. Completely agree, you'll be very happy with Albion Alloys tubing. The tube walls are very thin, 0.1mm. I highly recommend their telescoping tubing sets, they're extremely versatile.
  6. I just got an email from MicroMark touting a color decal package including an HP laser printer, Ghost White Toner, and laser decal paper. That white toner is ex·pen·sive! Furthermore, it looks like multi-color printing requires 2 printing passes: one pass with the CMYK toner and another with the white toner. Has anybody used this? What are your experiences?
  7. Nice work! That work on the light, motor, and sound sequencing is quite well done.
  8. FYI, just passing info along, no commercial interests, &etc... Free Time Hobbies just sent out an email blast; they have the kit available for pre-order.
  9. Mold the PE to the surface shape. Ideally against the plastic surface but you may need some other object to make the PE shape more consistent with its destination. Then, as @muradsuggested, pin it down with a pointy object in one hand while you apply CA with an applicator in the other hand. Paper is fine as an applicator but I prefer a metal tip for a knife handle, like these from RB Productions.
  10. I use Mr Color lacquers. I haven't found a clear-coat is needed before applying decals over Mr Color because they go down so smoothly. To be sure, you do need a clear-coat atop the decals to ensure they are protected and fixed in place. You especially need a gloss coat over decals if you're going to apply weathering. As you noted, you want to make sure the gloss coat beneath weathering finishes isn't affected by the weathering media. As I've been using Tamiya and Vallejo washes, Mr Color C33 clear works just fine. In addition to Mr Color C33 for gloss coats, I use Microscale Industries Micro Flat and Micro Satin respectively for the final flat and satin finishes; these thin with water. That's exactly how the models in my current signature were completed. If you don't have a really smooth finish direct from Mr Color, or Alclad for that matter, you have a surface preparation or paint application problem. A gloss coat should fix that for you this time. Lacquer paints provide the thinnest paint coat. Enamels provide a medium thickness paint coat, while acrylics are thickest--too thick IMHO. With that, surface preparation is critically important for lacquers. I use 6-cut Swiss Pattern needle files and polishing pads (up to 12000 grit) to get the smoothest possible plastic finish. Once I'm satisfied with the plastic surface, I'll give the model a wash-down with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol applied with cotton pads and cotton buds to ensure a clean and pristine paint surface. I thin Mr Color, and all other paints, to the consistency of 1% milk using the paint's airbrush thinner. For Mr Color, I use Mr Leveling Thinner. I spray very thin coats at 1 atm (~15 psi). Adjust this pressure while air is blowing out the airbrush at full volume. I spray at distances between 0.25 to 2 inches. Use a grazing light when you paint so that you can see the paint hitting the surface. It should be wet when it hits, and dry quickly after that. So quickly that you can apply multiple coats in one session. If you want a gloss paint finish, apply thin coats until you have coverage and then apply a final wetter gloss coat. This is especially important for gloss white and yellow. Don't try to blast on a gloss color coat in one pass!!! Before color paint, I prime with thinned Mr Surfacer 1200 applied exactly as described above. This provides a beautifully smooth finish that hides slight surface scratches. I use a 0.5mm nozzle for primers, base colors, clear coats, and Alclad or other metallics. I use a 0.3mm nozzle for detail work. HTH -- dnl
  11. Nice! That really looks the part for an in-flight display!!!
  12. Excellent work. More so on an Amodel kit. I love their subjects, but they're a lot of work!
  13. I believe they have multiple formulations, including lacquers. I can't help work the other formulations, but I can offer suggestions for lacquers. They're very thin paints. Surface prep is critical. Thin to 1% milk consistency. Spray thin coats close in at 15 psi. Make sure the paint is still wet when it hits the surface.
×
×
  • Create New...