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dnl42

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About dnl42

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    Male
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    The OC...south of La-La Land.

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  1. Woohoo! Both mounts are done! Here's my reference shot again. The boat number is white. As near as I can tell, the mounts are Haze Gray. I used some hex nuts & bolts. For most of them, I used the smallest examples with the bolt portion cut off, leaving just the hex nuts. I used the largest nut and bolt for the center column.
  2. dnl42

    Need resin tips, badly...

    Thinned Mr Surfacer 1200 or 1500 is my goto primer on plastic, resin, and metal. I use it all the time. Produces a beautifully smooth and resilient primer coat. I'll only sand this when additional filling is needed, followed by a partial recoat. I use the unthinned Mr Surfacer when I want some flow in the filler, such as to flow into a gap. My Zona saw is too aggressive for fine resin parts; I only use it on pour plugs that are too big for my JLC saw's 5/16" depth of cut.
  3. dnl42

    WWII 50 Cal mount on LCM

    @jeffryfontaine, thanks! This provides some key information, I very much appreciate it!
  4. dnl42

    Revell 1/144 AN-225

    Seems they have a minimum purchase amount...
  5. dnl42

    Need resin tips, badly...

    A JLC saw is a great way to remove smaller parts from the pour block. For large parts, possibly including those seats, I use a more aggressive Zona saw. Basically, size the saw to the pour block you have to cut through. For thin parts laying next to the pour block, you might consider scoring the joint with a very sharp #11 blade. Not sure where you're located, but I I got my JLC saw from UMM-USA. BTW, the JLC saw is my #1 tool for removing plastic parts from sprues, too. With practice, you can remove a part with no additional trimming needed. As always, let the saw do the work--don't force it. UMM-USA also sells mitre boxes that are quite good if you do scratch building; I have their MN-034 and MN-041 tools. The JLC saw also does a great job on Albion tubing. Tamyia cement is useless for resin. I generally use CA for resin-plastic joint. I never, ever, use CA for resin-to-resin joints. I only use epoxy for that because of a bad experience where slow-setting CA set instantaneously! The 2" Mini Hold and Fold - Photo Etch Bending Tool from the Small Shop is a wonderful tool. Very well made and quite versatile. For cutting PE from the fret, I use a rounded blade, like a #10 blade, and rock the blade across the fret atop a hard surface, like a glass or steel plate. Hold the to-be cut part to make sure it doesn't fly into a parallel universe. Also be very very careful with tweezers--they will launch small parts into low earth orbit. You may also find success with the point of a sharp #1 blade to lightly stab the part. Tamiya cement is useless for PE. I use CA for PE-to-PE joints and edge-joints with plastic. I use an acrylic glue, like Gator's Grip Glue or Formula 560 Canopy Glue for PE surface joints, like an instrument panel laying on a plastic part. The reason is quite simple, metal and plastic have different expansion rates and CA glue's low shear strength almost guarantee that a surface joint glued with CA will spontaneously pop off.
  6. dnl42

    Canopies turning cactus over years

    If it's future, have you tried Windex? I had a reaction apparently like that right when I removed the masking tape after I was done with flat coating the model. Windex helped, but didn't eliminate the issue (it's still "rough").
  7. dnl42

    RIP Lt Col Richard "Dick" Cole

    That is very sad. https://www.srpressgazette.com/news/20190409/last-doolittle-raider-dies-lt-col-richard-cole-passes-at-103 Rest in Peace, Sir.
  8. dnl42

    Vacuforming

    I would spring for $40 and a six pack. Even better that you got to enjoy some of that six pack!
  9. dnl42

    Vacuforming

    A negative mold will produce better detail, but it is trickier. I believe there was at least one vac manufacturer that used negative molds; I recall hearing somebody rave about the fine details they were able to achieve. Did the vacuum holes leave any distinguishing marks on the molded plastic? I suppose careful placement of the holes would enable any artifacts to be successfully managed. I'm interested in seeing how this turns out. I've seen that device on Micro Mark, but I didn't think my potential use justified the costs...
  10. dnl42

    1/48th Boeing B-52H 'BUFF'

    Tom, It's always a treat to see your work. That C-17 was indeed stunning!
  11. I think I figured out the Mark 21-1 mount. I imported a bitmap image of a sectional view of the mount into Inkscape. I was able to trace the drawings to create a vector drawing of the parts I'd make from sheet. I then able to score some 0.01 Evergreen sheet in my Silhouette Portrait. I tried to cut the sheet, but the device isn't strong enough. With the scored sheet, I was able to cut out the parts. I used drills and some reamers to cut the holes. I also needed various sizes of Evergreen tubing, 0.06 angle, and some Albion tubing. Now to make the other one.
  12. dnl42

    1/48 Cessna 208B Grand Caravan ?

    Good news, Master-X lists it as "Coming Soon." Bad news, they've been claiming that since 2016... Sorry, that's all I got.
  13. This is fabulous!
  14. An air tank is apparently a great way to get dry air for airbrushing. I'm sure some people here could tell you exactly what's needed if you asked in an appropriately titled thread. FWIW, the old VW Beetle used an air-pressure bleed from the spare tire to power the windshield washer. IIRC, there was a valve in the bleed line that made sure air was only bled off above a certain pressure.
  15. Today is the day when the GPS week number, which is transmitted as a 10-bit value, i.e., 0 to 1023, "rolls over." This means the current week number is 1023 and the next week (tonight at 23:59:42 UTC) is week 0, because as we all know, the lower 10 bits of 1023 + 1 is 0. Tomorrow will be the 3rd GPS week epoch. The previous roll-over was in August 1999. This will apparently be the last such event anyone reading is likely to experience, as the Modernized GPS system (MNAV and CNAV) uses a 13-bit week number, kicking this particular can down the road by 157 years and 28 weeks. I was told by a British colleague that the British tax year also starts on April 6. As our employer is geek central, he also mentioned the history of the tax year, which included a discussion of older notions of the first day of the year as well as the Julian and Gregorian calendars.
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