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About dnl42

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    The OC...south of La-La Land.
  1. Wow! Most excellent work. Welcome back!
  2. F9F-2 "bucket build"

    Looking good! I must say though, I was looking forward to seeing the yellow NAEL bird!
  3. Filling, sanding and all that fun stuff

    I use clay modelling tools, palette knives, sandwich picks, or toothpicks to apply putty. These allow me to apply and shape the putty blob, including scraping it off. The next step is to use a cotton bud dipped in Mr Color Thinner to wipe away the excess putty once it has set. This thinner is safe for the plastic. Don't go using some hardware store lacquer thinner--it will melt the plastic. Anyway, with practice, you can get the putty pretty close to final shape. The key is not to remove putty below the plastic surface. On a fillet, like between stabilizer and fuselage or along a nacelle, you can often be done at this point. Like all things, practice will improve your skills. Next come the files, sanding sticks, and sanding pads. Quality Swiss pattern needle files, from cut 0 to cut 6, are an excellent tool to have. Cut 0 will aggressively remove materia. Cut 6 will allow you to get a ready-to-paint surface. Some modelers only use cuts 2 and 4; I have 0, 2, 4, and 6. They work best on a flat or convex surface. On a flat surface, their rigidity prevents you from going below the surface unless you get too heavy handed and gouge the material. With practice and the right cut, you can get a marvelous result on a single or multiple curve surface. See Paul Budzik's Facts on Files for a good treatment on shapes and cuts. I got the Grobet files linked earlier and couldn't be happier; they're my go to abrasive. If you do get quality files, treat them well! I keep them in a block like Paul's Fig 9. If you sign up for MSC's emails, they send out some good coupon codes, like 25% off. Sanding sticks are more flexible, especially for a concave surface. But, you can also use the flexibility to advantage on a convex surface. Like a file, their stiffness helps to avoid undercutting the surface. Along with your LHS, go to the local beauty aisle and get their nail buffing sticks. The nail buffers can get you a mirror-like finish, especially useful on clear parts. Sanding pads are more flexible still, so they're easier to use on curved surfaces. Just be careful not to undercut the putty below the plastic or resin surface. The 12000 grit pads work great to as the final step in fixing seams and scratches on clear parts. Sanding paper and emery cloth are too flexible for my general use. One way I use this stuff by laying it grit side up on a flat surface. This is great for truing parts, like fuselage or wing halves. The only other way is wrapped around a form of some sort, but this becomes a lot like a stick or pad, which I already have. The key to all abrasives is to start at the coarsest cut or grit and use successively finer cuts/grits until you're done. Each step will clear any gouges from the previous step. Don't try 12000 grit right after that work above with 400 grit. Since you started with 400 grit (I wouldn't go too much coarse then that), use 600 next, then 1000, then on from there. HTH -- dnl
  4. Monogram 1/48 Bell AH-1S Cobra

    Nice! Great job on the details and construction.
  5. Best result for airbrushing camo?

    Also make sure the putty has a uniform edge and maintain a uniform spraying distance. I've learned to roll a putty rope and use it to mark the outlines. Then use paper, tape, or sheets of putty to fill in the masked outlines.
  6. Post Image site, not working?

    Older posts and sigs are probably using "postimg.org" while newer posts use either "postimg.cc" or "postimages.org". Odd thing was that my sig was showing up for a little bit after the TLD change from .org to .cc. Not sure how that would work if the registrar was the problem...
  7. test - do you see the pic?

    Nicely done hydro! I've got the Mirage 1/48 version in the stash.
  8. Canopy painting

    Sorry. I meant ""to avoid the blade pulling the Parafilm while you cut." A scalpel may well be better. But, a brand new #11 works for me.
  9. Looking for aftermarket parts

    Did you mean any of these? http://www.aim72.co.uk/index.html http://www.airline-hobby-estore.com/ https://www.authentic-airliners.de/ https://www.authentic-airliner-decals.de/ https://www.aviationmegastore.com/ http://www.brazmodels.com/ http://www.contrailsmodels.com/ http://www.drawdecal.com/ http://www.f-rsin.com/ http://www.fcdecals.com/ http://www.jbot.ca/ http://www.jbr-decals.com/ http://www.mtaonline.net/~zdk/ http://www.lndecals.com/ http://www.nazca-decals.com/ https://www.shapeways.com/ http://vintageflyerdecals.com/index.html http://www.8adecs.com/v2/site/index.shtml HTH -- dnl
  10. Willys Jeep 1:24 scale

    Nice soldering work! That steering linkage is quite well done. Did you use Albion Alloy tubes on that? If not, check them out as they have 0.1mm walls, e.g,. 0.3, 0.5, 0.7, 0.9 are a telescoping tubing set. Oh, and welcome aboard!
  11. For anybody down here in La La Land, the Long Beach Grand Prix is running this weekend. Brookhurst Hobbies, the LHS, will be there: More info is available here; looks to be 50% off... For my part, I'll be "Roughing it Smoothly" at 5400 ft about 100 miles away...
  12. Post Image site, not working?

    Hm, it does seem there's some kerfuffle with their registry, as the site does claim postimage.cc is being used. Having written that, my signature line, which includes images from postimage is working fine, and my images are redirecting to postimage.cc.
  13. Canopy painting

    The nice thing about Parafilm is that it doesn't have to lay down perfectly flat. Wrinkles and overlaps are fine, as long as you've carefully sealed the edge. Pressing very firmly helps adhesion. A very very sharp blade is key to avoid it pulling while you cut.
  14. Canopy painting

    Parafilm M? Cut off a hunk that you can work with. Remove the paper. Stretch it carefully along the long length of the roll by grabbing each end, using as much of your palm and fingers as you can. The goal is to pull the film as evenly as possible to avoid tearing. Watch it carefully as it stretches out, and it's fairly obvious when you've stretched it sufficiently. Cut a piece off and carefully press it onto the part. I use my fingers, trying to make sure it's completely against the surface. For canopies, make sure you've gotten the film hard into the corner. I tend to use smaller pieces to completely cover the part. No worries about multiple layers.You can't burnish it like you would masking tape because you might stretch and tear the film. Then run a new #11 edge along the frames edges, et VoilĂ ! Once you're done painting, whether it's one coat or multiple colors plus clear coats and flat coats, carefully remove the remaining masking panels with a toothpick onto which you've cut a chisel tip. HTH -- dnl
  15. Canopy painting

    Parafilm "M" is also excellent for masking over surfaces with complex curves.