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About dnl42

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    Life Member (Mon-Key Handler)

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    The OC...south of La-La Land.
  1. Thanks! That's my favorite paint, too!
  2. I'm curious how they'll take to paint. I've been experimenting with a warm vinegar pickle to improve paint adhesion. The pickle has helped, but I'd be interested in something that does better still.
  3. For airbrush problems, try Don's Airbrush Tips!
  4. I'll use Tamiya or Mr Primer rattle cans or airbrush Mr. Surfacer or Mr White Base under Mr Color for the reasons Kurt noted. A primer coat is especially needed under white or yellow colors, just as it is with Alclad. I use a 0.7mm needle for Mr. Surfacer and Mr White Base; I find a 0.3mm needle too fine. For 1 1/144 F-4F, I used Mr White Base for coverage and then just laid a wet gloss white coat atop. I thin with Mr Leveling Thinner to make sure I get a nice smooth coat. I also keep the nozzle quite close, between 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches; the paint must be wet when it hits the surface. Once you learn to use them, Mr Color paints are very nice!
  5. Yes, ABQ is nice. They also have cases of 1/72 aircraft on display on the lower level along with a 1/1 1914 Ingram/Foster Biplane.
  6. Also, it's the airport "Most Likely to be Backed Up" if there's a hiccup anywhere in the country...
  7. Portland, PDX, is a very nice airport. Long Beach was easy to get in and out of (20m from touch down to in my house), but it was never well connected, and seems less so now... Avoid LAX at ALL POSSIBLE COSTS! Sadly, I need to use this airport for most flights.
  8. Does this mean you're leaving the previous CA application on PE and plastic when you try to reattach the part? If so, that would explain this next bit: Glue on top of glue is not good. For flat surfaces, you really want something more flexible to deal with different expansion properties betwixt PE and plastic. Gator's Grip or Formula 560 Canopy Glue are great choices for this application.
  9. I believe you meant OzMods.
  10. Keep the faith. I asked them for a 1/35 M61 several years ago, soon after they released 1/48 and 1/32 versions. While they declined at the time, they said they'd consider it later. Sure enough, they came out with that 1/35 part last year or so. That wonderful Master part is going to replace the cast metal bits on a Flagship/Viking Models CIWS.
  11. Aren't they're amazing? I just love their stuff! I struggled mightily with the DUAS vanes on Academy's MiG-21MF pitot, but Master's brilliantly engineered and exquisitely machined pitot just fell together...
  12. I use lead shot and white glue or epoxy. I got "Liquid Gravity" last year, which is finer-grained than shot, but haven't had an opportunity to use it yet. Have read about tungsten, which is denser than lead.
  13. Somewhere I found MM Chevy Engine Red (28006) and MM Cobalt Blue (2012) are the colors. Thought it looked good on my 1/144 Amodel HU-16 Albatross
  14. Stunning work! You've laid waste to the adage "you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear"!