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About dnl42

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    Life Member (Mon-Key Handler)

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    The OC...south of La-La Land.

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  1. If you can make your test photo a small enough image, that is, under 100kb (102,400 bytes, it's a computer thing), you can directly upload it to the ARC forum by pressing the "choose files..." link that appears at the bottom of the text box whence you enter a post. Otherwise, you'll need to upload the photo to an image hosting site (I use Postimage at postimages.org, but there are others), get a link from the hosting site ("Share" a "Direct link" in postimage), and then paste that link into your post. My experience suggests you don't post a link from Google photos as the link is difficult to get and eventually becomes stale. Edit: Here's Krylon's page on their "camoflage" colors.
  2. @Mfezi, you identified the real issue with the article. Scientific American is looking for simple explanations. To be sure, this isn't new; it has long been their goal.
  3. When did you order? I can no longer find any evidence of their existence.
  4. Marvelous work! I built Revell's 1/144 kit, and it's a beast compared to other 1/144 aircraft.
  5. No! Masking tape on clear plastic comes off last! For some kits, the clear plastic bits can go on last. This had both
  6. I can absolutely hear your ex honey's admonition to not mess up. Do you know the difference between TINS and "Once upon a time"? A fairy tale starts with "Once upon a time." A sea story starts with TINS.
  7. Equally important, clear coating protects the decals. I install the LG and other sticking-out bits after I've applied the clear coat. I will spot apply clear coat to deal with any unintended shiny spots.
  8. I wonder if there's an age issue here? I built their 1/48 MiG-21MF with the Polish AF 45 Year Anniversary scheme. Per ScaleMates, it's a 2011 boxing. The decals, some of which were quite large, went on beautifully! I used MSI Micro Set and Micro Sol.
  9. My future wife learned English from that show when she emigrated to the US. As she's now a retired rocket scientist, that's quite a positive statement.
  10. One practice I've developed is make sure the airbrush is atomizing well before I pour in the paint. I'll drop 3-5 drops of thinner in the airbrush; I then start with air (no paint) and then slowing pull back on the trigger, increasing the fluid flow. This does 2 things: 1) makes sure there's nothing wrong with the airbrush (clogs, misalignment, &etc), and B) makes sure there's compatible thinner in the brush. Once I load the paint, I'll give a quick full-flow blast of paint. All of this helps ensure there are no surprises when I start spraying.
  11. Congratulations! You've chosen the best paint! Mr Color is my primary paint, by a very large margin. I just posted my airbrushing method in another thread: To answer your other questions. Lacquer only needs to dry. It doesn't need to cure, as enamel does. Parts can be handled relatively quickly, should be no longer than 10m unless you're putting on too heavy a coat. For non-gloss wet coats, 5m is about right. As noted in the above, I mask in 30m to 1h. If I'm misting another color, say for shading where no masking is needed, I'll do that in 10m--about the time to clean out the old color and thin the next color. I use Mr Color Gloss Clear C46, MSI Micro Satin, and MSI Micro Flat. The MSI clears are thinned with water. I've used Solvaset and Mr Mark Softer without issues. For these as well as my usual MSI Micro Set and Micro Sol, I don't glop it on, but I do completely cover the decals.
  12. I do indeed suggest you try. Painting has a strong user-specific aspect to it. For example, I've never gotten anything but a lousy result from Future, so I never use the stuff. Others get brilliant results. Having written that, I get excellent results from Mr Color paints, so my suggestion is their Gloss Black, C2. But, to reinforce my point, Mr Color demand good airbrushing skills to achieve their absolutely amazing results. The cowling is Mr Color gloss red with gloss clear. The rest of the airframe is MSI Micro Satin
  13. Another fun project to follow! @ST0RM, you can indeed pulse the LEDs with a microcontroller, such as these sold my Sparkfun. Of course, if you're going to go this route, spin the prop and correlate its speed with the exhaust LED flashing rates.
  14. Funny, he distinctly said "chin" and labeled the video with the same word. As you point out, however, chine is indeed the correct word. Similarly, he spoke and labeled the video with "thread" instead of the expected "tread".
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