Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums

dnl42

Members
  • Content Count

    3,690
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About dnl42

  • Rank
    Life Member (Mon-Key Handler)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The OC...south of La-La Land.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'm with @seawinder, use Mr Color Clear C46. I always thin Mr Color to the consistency of 1% milk, or a little thinner. I never thin by ratios. BTW, I haven't found it necessary to gloss coat Mr Color gloss colors (including FS 1XXXX) in advance of decals; the reason is quite simple, Mr Color paints always go on very smoothly. I will gloss coat over semi-gloss and flat colors, however, more out of an abundance of caution rather than their apparent surface texture. For flat and semi-gloss coats, MSI Micro Flat and Micro Satin work really well. Again, thinned to the consistency of 1% milk or thinner. I thin all paint to that consistency.
  2. Thanks for responding. I finished that model a while ago--I went with Mr Color Yellow FS13538 C329. Ah, the reference to The Military Shop in LB definitely brought back memories. Gary had a wonderful shop...
  3. I had exactly that problem when building some CBI C-47's. I could only get a couple of partial confirmation shots--and I'm just trying to use decals!
  4. I agree, this is one of the more important questions.
  5. I always shoot pix with my phone. My process is: Shoot photo on phone Automagically uploaded to Google Photos Manually select and download to my desktop computer Prepare the image for posting (resize, rotate as needed, strip EXIF data, and rename). I wrote a Python script that does all of this; PM me if you want it. Upload to postimage Paste link into thread
  6. What problems did/do you have with the kit decals? They went down quite nicely. Hm, I now recall that I painted the USCG Chevron. I used Model Master automotive colors per discussions I found on the interweb. To Kursad's point, though, there's only the Amodel kit AFAIK.
  7. I too thin Mr Surfacer quite a bit more--to the same consistancy as paint. I spray at the same pressure as paint,15 PSI. I use my 0.5mm airbrush unless I'm doing some small parts, then it's the 0.3mm nozzle.
  8. dnl42

    Satin Finish

    I like Microscale Industries Micro Satin. Water soluble. I thin to the usual consistency (1% milk or a little thinner) and airbrush with my 0.5mm airbrush. Also says its brushable. You didn't ask, but I also use their Micro Flat; it's the flattest I've found. For gloss, I use Mr Color Clear C46.
  9. Looks like you need to find this Furball sheet...
  10. The instructions should be in your inbox. BTW, I first tried painting this with MM FS36375, but the decals were barely visible. The build log said I might try Mr Color. I did switch to Mr Color around that time, but perhaps I just lightened up MM FS36375? Anyway, here it is after a full strip and repaint
  11. I looked at the instructions I have. Are you missing this page? If you are, PM me with your email address and I'll send you a PDF of the complete instructions I have (4 page, 2 sheets of paper).
  12. Here's what I did. And here's the tail rotor HTH -- dnl
  13. As @11bee noted, a key factor is the type of paint. Assuming you meant water-based acrylics, they're the thickest paint. Lacquers are thinnest, with enamels between. That being said, you have some control over the thickness of the paint layers you apply, and complete control the number of layers. You'll need to decide when, if, it's too thick...
×
×
  • Create New...