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About Joel_W

  • Rank
    Old & Slow
  • Birthday 11/14/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Selden, New York
  • Interests
    Plastic Military Modeling
    Saltwater fishing
    Baseball: NY Yankees
    Football: NY Giants

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17,278 profile views
  1. Pascal, That's for sure. The 330 P4s were one of Ferrari's best and sexiest for sure. Joel
  2. Pascal, thank you my friend. It's not up to your build standards, but I'm slowly, very slowly getting there. Joel
  3. Chuck, While I've converted to auto modeling these days, I do follow a few builders here, and you're on the top of my list. Just an outstanding tutorial and walk through on painting insignias, numbers, & Letters. Very well done, as well as how easy it is to understand and follow. There's been plenty of times I've tried my best to follow modelers using masks, but more often then not it got confusing to the point that I was just plain lost. Not so this time. Joel
  4. Ben, Thanks for the vote of confidence. My only issue with the kit is the engine covering plate which is 100% fictitious, and looks the part. There is a AM engine for it, but it's sold out. I'm getting their engine for the Fujimi Ford GT40 MK1, but they don't make one for the MkII car. Joel
  5. Startbarfast, Thanks for your thumbs up. It's always much appreciated. Joel
  6. Brian, Please email me your zip code so I can get you a price for shipping. I'm using USPS flat rate boxes. Joel
  7. I'm cleaning out the aircraft kits from my stash, as I've dedicated my retirement modeling to race & classic road cars. All open boxes have the sprue trees still in their sealed bags. Some come with AM parts as listed. Sale and shipping to the lower 48 states only. Shipping is extra. If interested in any of the kits please email me at:jaw101@optonline.net None of these kits are listed on ebay. Method of payment to be worked out at time of sale. thanks, JoelAcademy 1/48 scale P51-B Blue nose. Shink wrapped. Yahu IP. $25Academy 1/48 scale P51-B Blue Nose. Shrink wapped $20Academy 1/48 scale SBD-2 Dauntless. Eduard glass masks. $20Accurate Miniatures 1/48 scale SB2U-3 $25 PENDING SALETamiya 1/48 scale P47-D-20 Razorback, Eduard cockpit masks, Quickboost seat, $25Tamiya 1/48 scale P47D-25 Bubble top, shrink wrapped, Eduard cockpit masks $20 PENDING SALE Airfix 1/48 scale Spitfire Mk IA, Eduard cockpit masks, Yahu IP $20Eduard 1/48 scale Profipack Spitfire Mk VIII $15 PENDING SALEEduard 1/48 scale profipack F6F-5, Eduard Cockpit masks $15 PENDING SALEEduard 1/48 scale profipack F6F-5, $15 PENDING SALE
  8. Chuck, I'll be following your stencil adventures with much interest, as I've yet to try them myself Joel
  9. Well, another week and time for my next update on the 330 P4. Since my last update where decaling was finally finished, and the Mr. Hobby/Mr. Color Clear Lacquer applied. I was really happy with how the clearcoat self leveled as I used their proprietary leveling thinner. As expected there is some slight Orange peel, and the shine wasn't as deep as I had wanted. So the final phase of the paint process was about to commence. I very carefully with a lite touch, started to polish out the clearcoat with Tamiya 3,000 sponge wet, and washed off the residue as I went along. When I was finished with the wet sanding the decals looked more like they were painted on, but in all honesty, the IndyCal decals looked darn good before I wet sanded them. Next up was the 3 part Gravity polishing system. When I was finally done, I just stared at the shell. I've never achieved a finish like this before. But there's a lot of dried residue in the recessed panel lines, so I used a wet (with water only) Q-tip, but most of it still remained. So I got out my Iwata M1 AB, and simply air brushed close up those panel lines with plain old water. Cleaned all the recessed lines in two min. flat. the shell dried by the time I had cleaned the AB and put it ,as these days I use a pair of Grex ABs. The Final step was the 1st of two coats of Gravity's synthetic wax. The end result was a shine even deeper then before. The last coat & water rinse will be after the shell is installed on the chassis, but before the glass is glued into place. I do have some raise areas and edges that will need touch up with Red or aluminum paint. Those spots will be dealt with by using an artist's extra fine tip magic marker. Here's a few pictures of where I'm at now. Thanks for stopping by, Joel
  10. Chuck, Amazing paint work. You truly are a master at it. Joel
  11. Janman, Thank you my friend for that most positive and much appreciated post. Joel
  12. Hey Capt. Always a pleasure to have you stop by. Thanks for the thumbs up. Joel
  13. Ben, So sorry I missed your post. Thanks for sticking in my corner throughout the build. It's much appreciated. Joel
  14. Ben, Thanks for stopping bye, and checking out the 330, it's greatly appreciated. Joel
  15. Being retired does have its pluses, and I've been able to consistently get more time at the bench, and still get my Honey to List chores done on a daily & timely basis. Work concentrated solely on the shell as there was a still plenty to do before priming could take place. There is an abundance of mold seams over the entire shell that had to be removed, as well as finishing up the blending in of the fender mirrors. The final body work was adding the PE front clip winglets that help to provide additional downforce at high speeds. They're actually well thought out as I'm not the greatest with PE bending especially when a curved surface needs to be created. But that surface adds quite a lot of gluing area which is a very good thing. Here's one of the winglets pre-bend: and here's one after I carefully worked the bend with a hand drill handle, followed by a the grip of a modeling hand file. They're both glued up with Gorilla CCA glue, and once dry are there to stay. After washing down the shell with ISO Alcohol, followed by a quick wipe with a tack cloth, It's primer time. The paint of choice for the 330 is Gravity's Ferrari Rosso Corsa GC-107, which really needs a white primer, but the shell is molded in White. Having poor eyesight that's just not going to work for me, so I decided to do a little custom blending of Tamiya's Gray and White Lacquer primers. I just wanted it to be more like Off White then Gray. Took a while but I got there. Of course I totally forgot to write down the mixture, so I better not have to mix more or reply it later. Here's the shell after priming: I gave the primer coat several hours to dry, then a lite sanding with Tamiya 3,000 grit sponge and warm water. Now the primer is really nice and smooth to the touch. Next work session was applying the color coats. Nothing fancy here, as I just followed the procedures that seem to work well for me: Tack coat #1, 2-3 min tack coat #2, 2-3 min color coat #1, 5 min Color coat #2, 10 min final color coat as well as looking for drier spots. Now into the drying bin. 6 hrs later it's back to the rub with a wet piece of Tamiya 3,000 sponge. Next work session I applied the IndyCal decals, which preformed perfectly using Micro Set, Sol, and finally Solvaset. The only issue I have with them is that they're printed on a single sheet and you have to cut out each decal. Takes time and a steady hand, but certainly worth the effort. I gave the decals two days to dry, then following the same exact air brush procedure as I used for the primer, & color coats, I applied Mr. Hobby/Mr.Color lacquer clear gloss. The results came out perfect. Here's the shell after the clearcoat with no polishing as yet. Thanks for stopping by and checking out my build to date, as it's always much appreciated. Joel
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