General Grievous Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 Hey, I have the following problem: I'm improvising a spray booth, almost got it all together already BUT... the room I plan to use as a "paint shop" has only one window which must be closed most of the time (don't ask me why) and I can't make any hole on the wall, etc. My question: Does anyone know how could I improvise a "super filter" with readily available stuff from a hardware depot to use in such cubicle? I have a 125mm duct/ventilator/duct attached to the spray booth, but I don't know how to process the contaminated air safely. Thanks for any help! GG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patgin Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 I have the same problem....I was thinking to put two 4" fan on the side of the booth and put a box with a filter on the other side to purify the air...but i'm not sure it will works..... <_ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maninblue41 Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 You better be using an activated charcol filter - to get all the nasty fumes outta the airflow. I have a booth that uses this very same system - don't feel like lung surgery in the future. HTH Carl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Patgin Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 this sounds good...better than my little filter...but how do you use your activated charcol filter? with fan? I forget to say that I also have a surgeon mask when painting.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bilkeau Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 Sorry, can't really help with air extraction systems, but whatever method you use, I would urge you most strongly to get a proper respirator type mask: one that is capable of filtering vapours. There are some vicious compounds in the paints and thinners we spray, and they're certainly not healthy to have sloshing about in your lungs or bloodstream. There are sites which detail the health hazards of the solvents used in hobby paints and glues , which may make you think skydiving is a safer pastime. In short, if you can smell what you're spraying, STOP IT!!! Really. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lloyd Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 I used to have a similar problem. I cut a piece of plywood to fit into the window when it was open. Then I cut a hole in the plywood to fit some dryer duct. When I wanted to paint, I openned the window and inserted the plywood. Other end of the duct went to my spray booth. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silver1 Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 The fumes from acrylics arent as bad as enamels. That may be something to consider. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
General Grievous Posted July 21, 2004 Author Share Posted July 21, 2004 I will wear a mask all the time, I'm concerned about paint getting onto the furniture, books, computer, etc. I'm still not sure on what to do... Need to find where to buy "activated charcoal" filters, etc. I read in another thread about using a can full of water that would help trap paint particles... Maybe if I improvise a filter pointing the air duct into a sealed can with water and charcoal filters... GG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
maninblue41 Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 The filters are available at Dixie Art and Airbrush(do a web search) - just search for spraybooths - and you'll find replacement filters for the Artograph booth, my booth. They go in the airflow to trap paint fumes/particles - using a pre filter helps too as well as a mask if you are at all sensitive to paint fumes. Hope this helps. All the best, Carl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Murray Kish Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 I've also seen filters at Home Depot that are intended to go in Range Hoods. There's different kinds and some of them had charcoal in them. Does anyone know whether or not something like that would work?? Murray Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bilkeau Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 The fumes from acrylics arent as bad as enamels. That may be something to consider. Granted, acrlylics don't smell as much as enamels, but nevertheless, they still contain things which will utterly, utterly bugger up your kidneys/lungs and/ or central nervous system if you inhale enough of them for long enough. And some are, or thought to be carcinogens. I don't want to be alarmist, and we're all grown-ups who can make our own choices, but personally I'm taking no chances. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Valdis Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 ~Stop drinking them then! :lol: Seriously I'm off to get a good respirator ;) .. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sturmgruppe Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 Here's an article on spray booths that interesting from the standpoint of proper sizing of components. Spray Booth Design and Fan Selection You must exercise caution when using electric motors in this type of service. Sparks, short circuits and vapors from solvents don't mix very well. As noted in this article: Now, what type of fan? Bathroom, kitchen, induction motor, inside the booth, outside the booth…? You normally won't find an electric motor in the air stream of a production type spray booth, unless it's an explosion proof motor. 1:1 booths use externally mounted explosion proof motors. An explosion proof motor is certified as such by one of several industry recognized certifying agencies. None of the previously mentioned fans are explosion proof. Kitchen and bathroom fans are probably the most critical because they typically have exposed stator windings. Paint solvents, unlike cooking oils and hair sprays, can deteriorate the varnish on these windings and cause the motor to short circuit. Exercise caution if you're using these types of fans. Also, keep in mind that voltage and current levels inside a spray booth must be kept below non-sparking levels, unless the components are certified as explosion proof. Non-sparking voltage and current levels are, if I recall correctly, about 16 volts and 50 mA, way below the 120 volts and several amps that many small fans use. Ultimately, the best type of fan to use is one that keeps the motor out of the air stream. There are booths available that use computer type axial fans. These have induction motors located in the air stream, and while they're not explosion proof, their design makes them a better choice than bathroom or kitchen fans. I've taken a few of these fans apart and found the stator windings embedded in epoxy. Since epoxy typically has a high resistance to solvents, I feel comfortable that the solvents won't migrate into the stator windings and deteriorate the insulation. Someone building a spraybooth should contact the manufacturer or distributor of the motor they intend to use to determine if it is appropriate for the service conditions. Finally, make sure all electrical components used in the booth are PROPERLY grounded no matter what material is used for the enclosure box. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WW2ace Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 I would get a box fan for about $8.00 and adapt a box so that the fan faces out and draws from the top. Filter material is several inches below the top, forming a downdraft spray booth. All the particulates will end up in the filter and any residual fumes will be dissipated very quickly by the fan. Work from the side away from the fan and no fumes will get near your face. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
General Grievous Posted July 23, 2004 Author Share Posted July 23, 2004 Thanks for the info guys! A last question: is "activated charcoal" and air conditioning filters enough to trap all bad fumes from enamels and acrylic paint? GG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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