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Academy 1/48 F-86F


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I was using a Paasche H also. My issue with clogging may not have been with the Alclad, but with the old paint build up. I thought I had it cleaned out, but once I put some laquer thinner on a Q-tip inside the needle, all of the dried paint I thought I got out started oozing out. What a sight.

The putty was Deluxe Plastic's Perfect Putty. Still happy with it, just need to do a better job sanding and priming it. The primer, it was Mr. Surfacer 500 from a rattle, which laid down fine, but the black gloss coat came down thick so I may have to move using that through my airbrush.

Thanks for the suggestions, will definitely take note. :)/>

I bought my 1st Paasche H gun in the early 70s and just replaced it last year. Only because the current crop of replacement parts don't really fit it. The new H model is a little different, but it's already a trusted friend.

As for cleaning the needle and cone, I use a standard white pipe cleaner from a tobacco shop, not the colored or thick ones from a craft store. I cut the pipe cleaners in half, so I get double the number. I use two glass jars with Store bought Lacquer Thinner. The 1st jar I dunk the cup in and swirl around, then remove and drain. Same for the needle and cone. Then I dunk them in the 2nd jar. Using a pipe cleaner soaked in LC I run it though the needle till I see it at the tip opening, then remove. I follow this up with a Qtip pushed and turned in the back end, then out. Blow air through the back to dry. I do the same for the cone. The cup gets the pipe cleaner to the bottom and I leave it there till I wipe out the cup. Finish with air from the airbrush. I've never had any dried paint issues using this method. Alcohol, X20-A, or any other cleaner has caused issues from time to time. I also use LC for when I use enamel paints. 1st jar is Mineral Spirits. Finish up with LC.

I don't like using a rattle can for primer or gloss black undercoat. It just puts out way too much paint, & you can't control where it goes. The advantage is that both are LC based, and polish out well. I do use the rattle can for primer for little pcs when it doesn't pay to use the airbrush.

Joel

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the lack of updates. I've been sick all of last week. Had the chance to last night start on the decaling. In case anyone ever wondered about the quality of Academy's decals for this kit... they suck! I'm not the best at this, but even I know these are lousy decals! They were so thick and hard to remove... good grief!

I was gifted with some AeroMaster decals from k5ikl (a user on here), but I wasn't 100% happy with how the paint job came out and had planned to build this one again. I will build this again, but this time not even bother with the kit decals.

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I have no words for what happened in these two pictures.

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As I stated on another forum, I am going to call a "do over" on this one. :) While I am happy with the overall build, not so happy with how thick some of the Alclad came out on portions of the bottom. So I purchased another Academy F-86 to start over again. This should go better since I will forgo using the rattle can(for the black) and stick with the airbrush. Plus I will add polished aluminum to the build.

At least I will have some more spare missiles for the AA-2 (AIM 9B) for my Mig 21 build if I read everything correct on the versions.

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This is the Redo! As stated, I wanted to redo this build since I wasn't happy with how thick the paint came out on the first one. Already this one seems to be coming along better from what I learned the first time.

After the paint has been stripped:

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With the silver still on:

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The pilot:

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Cockpit and engine:

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Worked on this build last night. Definitely going a lot smoother then the first time around. Except for the superglue fingerprints. Pilot is completed more or less and the fuselage halves and wings are completed and waiting to be joined. Since this is another wheels up build, I completed the gear doors while the wings were off the main body and before I applied the nose radome, definitely made things easier.

Main Body:

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Wings:

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Looking rather good so far. One thing to work on is the mounting surface of the fuselage to the wing. It still looks like there is a step there that will cause you some grief later on.

Joel

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Yessir, Like you, I use my trusty, old Paasche H, with the #3 needle for Alclad Paints. There is no real trick to applying Alclad. To me, it's like a little magic show. Your undercoat has to be dry and very well cured. Turn down you air pressure and start "dusting" on the Alclad. When you are spraying Alclad and it looks like nothing is coming out, you're right where you want to be. All of a sudden, the magic begins. At this point, you are either done or almost done. When it starts to look really nice, STOP!!! You're probably done. This is the point in our "model-painting mind," where we think "this looks great, so more will be better." It's at this point where most people put on too much Alclad and end up with a nice looking paint job instead of a great looking paint job. It took me a couple of models to figure this out. Once I figured this out, it was like the light came on. You'll have a similar experience with a little practice. Good Luck!

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Currently coming back to this one. I forgot to add the pictures when before leaving for vacation. I believe I am done with the sanding and filling in of the seams. I just need to make sure the recessed details are correct. May also just have to bit the bullet and go ahead to the primer stage and see what comes of it then.

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Worked on this last night. Primer is Tamiya's liquid primer using my airbrush. First time using it. No major issues, but I was able to see where I needed to clean up some seam work, plus trying to figure out how to keep the seams for the gear doors since it is starting to look flush and blended in too much. Well, the nose does anyways.

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Edited by ulvdemon
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Wetsanded the black with 1500, 2000, and 4000 grit sandpaper. Might have taken a little too much off. Will be wiping off the streaks later, then off to apply the Alclad.

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Edited by ulvdemon
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Applied the NMF over the weekend. Not as blotchy looking as these pictures may make it look. I added a couple more thin layers plus I have taped it up in preparation for some of the other colors. Currently running into an issue with needing to add yellow to the nose. I am thinking of using acrylic for it, but would I need to add a white base to it?

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Just about done with the painting. Only need to address some minor bleed under issues, but overall I am very happy with how it came about. Even though I did forget to address scaling down the tone of the gunmetal around the machine gun, but that's just a lesson learned. Was concerned with the yellow because of the layers of white I had to spray, but it came out better than I expected.

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Edited by ulvdemon
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Was able to start applying the decals last night. ran into some fit issues, but nothing that shouldn't be too much of an issue. Was surprised that the decals sat on the curve of the wingtips since during the application process I couldn't get those things to lay down to save my life. Here it is so far.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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