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About balls47

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    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 06/24/1956

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    (west central) Ohio

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  1. Paul, You must have built thousands of models over the years. I've seen some of these before in FSM reviews, your "how to" books, etc. They all look pristine. Which one is the earliest built one of the bunch?
  2. Hey, You did a very nice job on the Tanmodel kit. I've got one in the stash that's gonna work its way to the top pretty quickly. Any advice? I noticed that the surface is a bit grainy. Did you sand yours down or just go with what was in the box? Thanks ahead of time. Again, great job. I also have Caracal decals.
  3. Great work Darren. Wow!!! Your model brings back memories of my late uncle. He was in the USN, assigned to an aircraft carrier in the early 60's. I know that he had to be involved in the Cuban Missile Crisis. I was just a little tyke. I asked him about the airplanes. His favorite was the A-5 Vigilante. He called it a "monster." Thanks for the memories.
  4. I don't know what your skill levels are, but you could carve a master out of Basswood, then make a couple of new ones out of clear plastic. Buy a vacuformed canopy from a mail order place like Squadron or SprueBrothers.
  5. Use a very fine grit stone. As far as you Harbor Freight stone, you get what you pay for. Go to a meat market. They can give you their catalog. There is a company in Grand Rapids, MI that sells knives, stones, etc. I have a stone that my granddad gave me. I sharpen my #11 blades all of the time. They are just like new. If you need honing oil, don't buy a name brand honing oil. Use mineral oil. You can get almost a lifetime supply at Wally World or any such store.
  6. Try Papa Tango decal paper. I've used it with ALPS printed decals. It works great. I've also had pretty good luck with the decal paper and cover spray from Testors. Just make sure that you give your sheets a clear coat to protect the colors. Good Luck!!!
  7. What Bill said as far as what to look for. This comes from over-engineering. Most guys just want an A-7. I despise open panels. If panels are open, there can be nor ordinance hanging on the airplane Maintenance would scream. I wish they would add them as an extra part. If a guy wants to build a kit with the panels opened up for maintenance, make them as extra parts. Billy Modeler has to cut the panel open, along the panel lines. It would actually be easier because the inside stuff would be a separate piece. It would be much easier painting if it was not attached to the fuselage. Paint it up, then glue it in place to the inside of the fuselage. Walla!
  8. Great job. I have a few of those to build, but they're gonna be the dull two tone gray used by the ANG. 354 is probably the most modelled A-7D. That's not meant to be a negative, because 354 is probably the best looking A-7D out there. Again, great job.
  9. I don't use a knife to scrape the seam off. For me, there's too much of a chance of gouging into the plastic. I usually start out with a sanding stick or a fine file if the seam line is big. I also tape both sides. When I get the worst part off, to the point that I can't see any seam line anymore, then I start out with a lower grit stick. I use them until things are pretty smooth. Then, I'll start with the fine grit sanding pads and work from lowest to highest grit. I have also used nail polishing pads. I usually buy those in bulk, because I want to spend as little time as possible in the ladies aisle. After that, I'll give the whole canopy a good polishing with the Novus system. If I still have scratches, it'll get dunked in Future. Added: I forgot one very important item. When you get down to the main part of the canopy, remove the tape. At this point, don't sand a flat spot on top of the canopy. To avoid this, sand in a rounded motion going with the contour of the canopy.
  10. Yepper, I built a Monogram 1/48 scale F-84F. It's gear-up because it's gonna be an in-flight desk model. I sanded off most of the raised panel lines and gave it a few coats of Future. The plastic is dark green, and It's gonna be a NMF Ohio ANG Thunderstreak. From past experience, this should really make the Alclad look great.
  11. Hey A21-29, This sounds like what I went through about a year ago. I wanted to strip the paint off of a model that was pre-painted in China. I tried everything imaginable. I was out in the garage, tearing my hair out when I saw my container of Rain-X on my workbench in the garage. I had nothing to lose, so I put a little bit of Rain-X on a cloth and wiped across a wing. That paint came off so easy that I almost fell over laughing. I took a piece of unpainted sprue and scrubbed it with the Rain-X, then let it set in a small puddle of Rain-X. The Rain-X had no ill effects at all with the plastic. This was a 1/44 scale F-106, so I put all of the prepainted parts into a small container and covered them with Rain-X. Immediately I could see the paint start blistering off. In about 15 minutes, I took the pieces out and wiped them clean of paint. I e-mailed all of my friends who had trouble getting the paint off of their F-Toys 1/144 scale kits.
  12. Yessir, I may be preaching to the choir here, but don't use it on anything acrylic. The two may become one. Anyway, I use the blue Humbrol Maskol at times. I put down a first coat and let it dry until it's sticky, but won't come off to the touch. Then put one a second, heavier coat and go almost to the edge, but not quite. It may level down to the edge. Also, on this second coat, I stick a piece of toothpick into the wet, blue Maskol. (I break a piece of the toothpick off and stick the broken end into the goo. Put the pointy end up.) Let this piece of you use start to dry into the Maskol. I add another coat or so and paint the Maskol right up the piece of piece of toothpick. I like toothpicks, because they are a little bit porous and the Maskol grabs onto it better. When it's dry and you are ready to pull the Maskol off, don't pull it straight up. I usually give is a little bit of downward pressure and move or kinda stir it around a little bit to break it free from the plastic. After you do this a couple of time, you will see what I mean. If you keep some downward pressure and move it around, you will know when it's ready to pop off. Try it on a scrap piece. Again, the secret is to get a good, THICK coat so that it can pull off in one chuck. I also use a liquid masking agent that I got through Micro Mark. It's kind of a light mint green color. I add a little food coloring to it so it shows up better. This stuff is more like Elmer's glue. It works fine for a liquid mask. Good Luck!!!
  13. Ditto what Joerg says. I purchased a compass cutter from Micro-Mark several years ago. I know exactly what you are trying to do. As for the paint bleeding through, airbrush thin coats of paint. Mist the paint on with lower pressure. IIRC, isn't the painting sequence black, yellow, black? If so, you are really in luck. I may be preaching to the choir here, but paint the whole spinner yellow, put on your tape(this will obviously mask the yellow) After the yellow is dried AND cured, then paint the black. But first,you might want to test your yellow on a piece of sprue. If it doesn't cover well, paint a piece of sprue white. After the paint is dried AND cured, paint your yellow over the white. You may have to do this if you have dark colored sprue. Good Luck!!!
  14. Disreguard