MiG31 Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 (edited) This started in early April, and it's been slow progress since then. I've only recently installed the intakes after spending a couple of weeks dealing with how to paint and detail them. It's the (infamous) Zvezda kit, but I think I've identified the biggest flaws, and have taken steps to correct them. The wingspan is cropped slightly, and the wings moved forward to expand the gap between t/e and tailplane l/e. I've also added a plug to stretch the forward fuselage, aft of the cockpit. The intakes are also stretched. Taken a month and a half ago. I've also reprofiled the tops of the engine nacelles and the chaff boxes. The cockpit is moved slightly aft, and will have a new canopy/windscreen vacformed from the Airfix kit. New instrument panel with MFDs is in place, along with revamped cockpit tub, side stick and throttle. Seat will be True Details K-36, and I'm using the kit pilot. Overall, it looks a lot better than had I built it OoB. I'm planning to scribe panel lines before airbrushing. It'll be an in-flight configuration, gear-up (since the wheel wells were terrible). I also think the radome looks fairly accurate, since the 35/37 radome is different in size and shape compared with the Su-27 version. Comments? Edited July 4, 2006 by MiG31 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AnthonyWan Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 Looks good so far. I have a 1/48 version made by MiniHobbyModels...but someone dropped a box in the windscreen...so that build is on hold indefinitely now :D I am actually proud i how i filled the mostrous seams on that one. I used a method similar to yours, but I didnt do that much corrections. Anthony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MiG31 Posted July 29, 2006 Author Share Posted July 29, 2006 Update... I've finished cleaning up the aircraft and now I've moved on to scribing, which is tricky since I don't have many points of reference. Given all the rework I've had to accomplish, all of the raised panel lines were erased, so I've made a few mistakes in placing new engraved lines. I'm using bondo to fill in any errant lines, or fix any that I screwed up (the scribe has a tendency to travel). Here's what I have so far: http://i7.tinypic.com/21b3pj6.jpg http://i7.tinypic.com/21b3q86.jpg http://i7.tinypic.com/21b3qkm.jpg I'll have to reposition the IFR slot since I've relocated it relative to the scribe lines. Aside from the plane itself, the tailplanes are the only other major components that need to be scribed. Everything else is waiting for clean-up or a shot of primer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Thundervett Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 Looks like your putting a lot of effort into it. Good job so far. Im sure the end result will be worth it. Regards Trevor M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sebastijan Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 I hardly wait to see it in primer... and splinter camo afterwards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MiG31 Posted July 30, 2006 Author Share Posted July 30, 2006 I had to make a slight, but significant, change to the spine/body interface on the dorsal area. The spine's too blended on the kit, so I had to make it more pronounced by sanding the area around it to make it more flat. Of course, I lost all of the scribe lines in that area, but it shouldn't take long to re-establish them. The scary thing is, I'm considering building the Zvezda Su-35 to compliment it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MiG31 Posted August 20, 2006 Author Share Posted August 20, 2006 Finally, something worth uploading some progress photos: One Two Obviously I'm not finished sanding the rear end. It'll probably take the better part of a week to clean up, rescribe and move on to the next challenge (repainting parts of the cockpit). I'm happy with the fins that came with the kit, too. They're about the right shape and size, although I did have to make some alterations. The nozzles will be from an Italeri Su-34 kit. A little surgery should be enough to make them swiveled. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MiG31 Posted November 4, 2006 Author Share Posted November 4, 2006 New update: Not quite ready for paint (to my disappointment). I still need to finish work on the scribe lines, then finish out the cockpit so I can install the canopy. IRST will follow. Since the Su-37 drawings were posted on airwar.ru, I noticed a few lines that were off, so those are being redone. There are a few that aren't quite right, but I'm not going to complain at this point. Surprisingly, the verticals are fairly accurate in shape and size, with the l/e extending slightly forward of the flaperon l/e (I had moved the wings forward compared with the original kit). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MiG31 Posted January 1, 2007 Author Share Posted January 1, 2007 Two months later... http://i14.tinypic.com/4deatmh.jpg http://i17.tinypic.com/2ldkr42.jpg Since this is my first real run into bare metal work, I'm stuck figuring out how to paint the nacelles properly at the moment. I'm thinking about Tamiya paints, with a metallic or black as a base, and clear colored and metallic paints drybrushed over in appropriate areas. Comments? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hoops Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 Very nice work, especially with a less than stellar base kit. I don't have a whole lot of suggestions on the bare metal myself, but here is a great article right on ARC about that very subject: http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1...rown/tnt126.htm Hopefully that gives you some good ideas, and again, keep up the good work! -Jared Quote Link to post Share on other sites
seb91 Posted January 1, 2007 Share Posted January 1, 2007 :) Very good job...the final result will be unique and fantastic..... :D Seb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MiG31 Posted January 1, 2007 Author Share Posted January 1, 2007 I'd been studying Paul Brown's models and what he wrote about his technique. I've also e-mailed him, but have yet to get a reply. Right now I'm not sure if drybrushing or misting differential colors is the way to go. I do know now that clear-coating over the finish isn't a good idea, at least. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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