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About AnthonyWan

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    Devoid of ANY Social Life
  • Birthday February 20

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    Boston, MA
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    I'm the delegate of discord, the agent of chaos.

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  1. G-Factor does Intake Plugs? I was under the impression they only did exhaust nozzles. Speaking of the canopy shape... I feel like that might be the way to go (posing it hatches up). Show off the details inside and also save yourself a shape headache. Might give a go with the vac canopy, who knows. Good to hear it's not "super far off" in terms of fit. -Anthony
  2. Just need to add the CF-18 demo and I'm there :P
  3. I've generally gotten an answer for the OzMods question - it's crap and "avoid it". Scaledown's items (which the Ozmods items are based on apparently) were excellent. They were cast in yellow-brown resin, while the OzMods ones are gray. That's the easiest way to tell. I have had a look at the Hobbyboss parts and I can't get over how many (and how large) the rivets are. Do you think this is an issue? I looked at photos of the real aircraft and the rivets are almost invisible in most cases. I feel like Academy almost has an advantage here. Regarding the windscreen - I haven't test fitted mine together so I can't comment on the kit piece, but I'm told it's too "bulbous" and doesn't carry the sleek appearance of the original. Can you post some photos if you're able to? I'd love to see a comparison.
  4. Hey all - Anyone use the above items? I've heard the original Scaledown items are excellent. Well cast, good detail. However I'm hearing spotty reviews that the newer Ozmods casts of those items are pretty appalling - soft, bad molds perhaps? Also - has anyone tried to adapt the Squadon/Ozmods Vac Canopies to the Hobbyboss kit? Curious how that operation went... Any insight appreciated! -Anthony
  5. Bump for Jerry! Deal with confidence guys! :)
  6. Gentleman, Have the following for sale, want to offload them quick! Academy 1/32 F-18C Hornet (Original Boxing) - $100 shipped Trumpeter 1/32 Eurofighter Typhoon (Single Seat) - $80 shipped Italeri 1/32 Mirage IIIC (First Boxing) - $75 shipped Payment via PayPal. Shipping (probably via USPS) from 02451 in Massachusetts. Shoot me an email - Thanks for looking! -Anthony
  7. Hello all, Looking at getting the following: Eduard Exterior PE Eduard Undercarriage PE Eduard Bomb Bay PE Wolfpack Resin Cockpit Sierra Hotel/Rhino Intakes Royale Resin Wheels None of the sets are OOP, but I thought I would check with y'all first before hitting up eBay and Sprue Brothers or other relevant websites. Just in case someone had these sitting the stash and wanted to offload them... I can give them a good home! :) Payment via PayPal or trade with 1/48 kits. Please shoot me an email - Let me know, Anthony
  8. If they have, I haven't seen it.
  9. Yep - good point.
  10. Yep. I have that one plus a blurry magazine cover.
  11. Doing a photo search... I've got three photos of what I believe is the "first" S-3B in prototype colors. It's got a dayglo red nose and red wingtips in addition to a big "S-3B" on the tail. Any one got more pics of this scheme? Thanks!
  12. Hmmm... thinking we might need to plan a meet up sometime :P -Anthony
  13. Interested in Eduard 1/32 F-18 exterior. Please shoot me an email.
  14. The pitots I work with are usually for 1/32 and slightly larger but the same ideas should apply. As always - be careful you don't stab yourself and I generally work against the wall or something just in case something flies out of my hand it doesn't get lost. I generally get the hole or mount for the pitot drilled/sized up perfectly before painting to minimize refinishing. Whether it's chopping an existing plastic one off or drilling a new hole. Drill a smaller hole first, then gradually test fit and widen the hole til the fit is snug. For the pitot itself, I generally give it a very very light sanding with a micromesh pad (something like...6000 or 8000 grit). This doesn't scuff the surface but keys the smooth brass just enough such that a gloss black primer will stick to it - then the coming NMF will stick to that too. As for attachment, I tend to avoid CA for the mess and "ping". I usually use white glue, let it "set up" a little so it's more gooey. Press the piece in, let the glue ooze out between the seam, let it sit for a moment then clean the excess with a wet Q-tip.
  15. I've used it with Tamiya Acrylics (Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black + GLT is my go-to for pre-metal primer), Gunze Surfacers (The black surfacer + GLT is my normal primer of choice), and of course Gunze's own line of acrylic lacquer paints. Oh and MR. Paint as well (though these don't usually require thinning, I had to dilute some even further for a shading coat).