Sebastijan

I've got no other solution but do something about it 😄 Yeah, the camo got my attention as well. There is a slight step, maybe a bit too pronounced by shadow in the pics. But there's one as well on the real deal, but in most cases, there's also the black antiglare painted part going by that line as well...

Thanks guys! A small update. Decals have been applied. I am using Begemot decals and I am having two issues with these. First is that some red stenciling, especially those with red X symbols are printed slightly too bold and thus became too noticable. The second issue is the clear carrier film. I am getting a strange effect on some stencil decals, that slightly resembles silvering, but it's not. Actually the colour behind the decals looks slightley brighter than the surrounding. Never happened to me before but it is what it is. I'll fade the decals anyway so I hope in the end, it won't be too noticable. Amigo Models exhausts were used in this build and they were painted in various shades of Mr.Paint metallic paints. I am quite satisfied with the result; current look is a bit vivid but after the wash, I am quite certain, the heat stained effect will be properly restricted.

Thank you! I've used Mr.Paint lacquers - MiG-29SMT Light grey, Light Ghost Grey FS36375 and Medium Grey FS36270

Didn't VF-114 arrived on station after the Desert Storm?

Well, I think I can safely say, most of the painting is done at this moment. Bring on the decals!

Good job, mate! Try to set the correct white ballance before next photoshoot (or after in edit) as the pics are way too warm and because the pics are underexposed due to black background, the photos really doesn't do her justice.

Cool work! I have a Fujimi A-4 prepared for KAHU conversion in Euro-1 scheme

Very nice work! Shame about the hard demarcation camouflage though.

Thank you, guys!

Just a week ago, I've read about this in one of FB groups by another modeller. Supposedly he did not turn the engines the correct way and couldn't install exhaust nozzles as a consequence. There are some slots at the back of the engines that have to be place correctly. Below is a photo of his problem. Jan, you're progressing really nicely!

Thanks, mate! While I like using Eduard's photoetched parts, I really hate the fact that most often than not, their cockpits are painted in wrong colours and the flat surfaces appear really grainy. So what I did was cut thin strips of Tamiya masking tape and masked the panels and sprayed everything else with correct cockpit colour. No fear of mismatched PE-plastic colours. Cockpit installed and windshield attached. The assembly was pretty straightforward but I did manage to make a boo-boo out of a HUD. I've tried folding the PE part just with my tweezers but I didn't get nice 90deg angles and the end result was terrible. So I leveled the PE part again and used the PE bending tool (don't know why I didn't use it in the first place?!?) and fixed that s*it! I intend to use Master brass pitot tube - you can see how much better it looks than its plastic counterpart. However the attachment point is much narrower diameter than the kit part, so I've had to attach the plastic one first, and filled the seam with CA glue. I'll have to cut the tube off and sand the radom cone to shape, to accomodate the replacement brass part. The result of over engine panels under a coat of primer - not perfect or 100% accurate, but still much better than just leaving them plain. Just before installing the tail fins to the model, I noticed on my reference photos, that the aircraft I am building, has strengthening plates installed. creating a simple template, I made those out of Tamiya masking tape. I've recently became a really big fan of One Shot primer by Ammo (also known as Stynylrez and Ultimate Primer). Instead of using black basing, I have used the primer's dark grey colour as a base to show through the light grey of the underside. Tracing the approximate lines of the splinter pattern, the upper light grey was applied. Also note the chipping on the left wing's leading edge.

RED labels are lacquers, BLUE labels and MRP-A designations are Aqua, normal acryllic line, GREEN labels and MRP-F are acryllic for figure painters - they brush beautifuly and are slightly thicker than A series.

Nice work on this beast! Keep in mind that if the rear cargo doors are open, the tail skid is lifted in order not to obstruct vehicles approaching the cargo bay. here's a nice pic:

my little daughter takes away so much time, but still, I managed to move forward a bit. While Zvezda made nice over-exhaust plates on their 9.13 kit, they somehow missed this area when designing the SMT and made those plates without any details. While not perfect, simple scribing and rectangual pieces of Tamiya tape make quite a difference. One of the reasons why I’d pick Zvezda over Trumpeter MiG-29 any day in 1:72 scale. Trumpeter completely simplified the shape of engine bulges; too narrow and without that inital curve that makes them look really beefy on real aircraft. Really like this stage of model building when you put sub-assemblies together and the model takes shape of the aircraft you’re building.

6 weeks too late. And it's a bit weird now, because the Pe-2 is in the hangar and they have some damaged glass on that side where it's parked, so there are plastic sheets hanged above it to avoid damage, as well as vertical sheets on sides, so you basically cannot see it whole.