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  1. When was the corigard applied around intake lips, wing/tail leading edges? I have searched pictures on the internet of all kinds of phantoms, some have it some don’t….even same time frame some have it some don’t. Was this only applied on some phantoms in a certain time period? I am currently building Tamiya F-4B Sun Downers 1972. Any info would be much appreciated.
  2. The Avenger kits are very nice and what is more suprising is how nice they still are all these years later.
  3. To many the Tamiya Spitfire Mk.IXc is the best injection molded 1/32 kit produced to date what do you think the best 1/48 injection molded prop kit is? Taking into account all around fit and detail. Would if be the Tamiya 1/48 P-47?
  4. For one there are a couple issues with the Eduard kit, they may seem petty but they missed the exhaust guard, the tail is a bit thick. I do agree the Eduard D-9 kit is easier to build vs their FW190A kits. Tamiya, issues are too short landing gear, wheels are too small, wheel bay is closed up totaly wrong so now you have to buy the Tamiya kit and how much extra money for MDC wheel well conversion, resin wheels, etc. The Tamiya FW190A's have issues too with the molded on gun barrels, wheel bays are not that accurate and great, but keep in mind these are much older molds, Tamiya just add some

    Hasegawa FW190D-9

    I picked up a couple Hasegawa 1/48 FW190 kits, the A-6/A-8 and F-8 and wow, I am not an expert on accuracy but I think they are better than the Tamiya FW190 kits and sure are easier to build then the Eduard. I was very impressed in how good the fit was, gear legs look the right length, the only thing I can't understand is the wheels, my understanding is the only late FWD-9's had wheels with no tread, looks like they put the same wheels in their 1/48 scale kits as the 1/32nd. I hear Ultracast is going to do some resin wheels and other items for FW190's in the new year. So the only thing I am

    Tamiya A6M3/3a

    I appreciate the tips and advice. One more question, process for painting realistic exhaust? Kit instructions indicate to mix metalic grey and flat red but all the finished kit pictures I have seen look to me like modelers used red/brown. Now would exhaust not be exhaust color like offered from Testors Metalizer line or even copper penny color like MM Metalizer burnt iron?

    Tamiya A6M3/3a

    I just purchased this kit as well as the Tamiya Up Parts PE set and I have a few questions: I have heard you should heat up the PE so it bends easier...how does this process work...just use a lighter and heat it up and then let it cool? The metal guns that come in the set do they need to be painted?...they look sort of gun metal color already.
  8. Looks fantastic. Can you talk about your paint process...did you preshade and postshade? What brand of paint and colors did you use?

    Tamiya A6M5 Zero

    Been getting ready to build this kit and doing some research looking at on-line builds. My question is regarding IJN Dark Green. Tamiya makes XF-11 IJN Green but they also make XF-70 Dark Green 2 which is indicated in their 1/48 Zero kit. Anyone know the difference between these 2 shades? Also, best way to paint exhaust?..looks like red/brown in the instructions, should exhaust not be more a burnt iron/metal color?
  10. MESHER


    Looking for ways to paint Aotake. Tamiya looks way to dark of a metalic blue and MM looks too light of a metalic blue (too much silver.
  11. Who said anything about discarding their current 1/48th Spitfires?..they are Mk1 and MkVb, the 1/32nd scale are MkVIII and Mk.IX, totaly different aircraft. A few years back there was a leak of info that Tamiya's Sr. designer was very ill, but now they are on the fast track again and the rumour was that every aircraft kit would be done in all scales 1/72/1/48 and 1/32nd. You can see they have done the zero's in 1/48th just like their big brothers and I hope the trend continues as I already stated I would love to see the Mk.VIII and Mk.IX in 1/48 as I am sure I am not the only one. And Tamiy
  12. I heard a rumour adn hopefully it is just that, that Tamiya will not be releasing anymore WWII aircraft in any scale for a very long time as there focus will be on other types of kits. Has anyone else heard this? I hope this is just a rumour as I was really hoping they would shrink down there 1/32 Spitfire kits to 1/48th scale.
  13. I just opened this kit and I am getting ready to start it. I recall sometime ago I read somewhere that there were a couple of modifications that were required as Tamiya used proto drawings when moulding this kit. I think there was mention of something on the wing surface that was molded for only gear up and needs to be corrected and something else about the gun vents or something like that. I know I am not providing the best hints but does anyone know what I am referencing and where I can find detailed information on how to make the nessesary changes to build a true Mk1?
  14. Hey there guys, quick question I need some advice on. I use to use enamel paints and had a jar of lacquer thinner for cleaning my airbrush and paint cups with. But I find I use more and more acrylic paint now and I find it is harder to clean out the airbrush and cups with my jar of lacquer thinner after using Tamiya paints. Is there a better cleaning solution for cleaning out my airbrush and cups after painting with acrylics?
  15. I just love Navy fighter jets but I can't get past the prices and what you get in the kits. Haseagawa F/A-18A-F and F-14A-D use to be around $69.00 Canadian at Ed's store in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada. Now he is closed but even in Toronto and area these kits are all well over $100.00. Then on top of it there is very few or no weapons, that is pretty sad. So then you look at Air Force jets, Tamiya F-16's in 1/48 I can buy almost 3 for the price of one Hasegawa Navy jet, and then the F-15E buy the Academy and the Revell and make a nice kit for $60 total. Then there is the new F-22A from Has
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