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About loftycomfort

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    RandomCatFacts fan

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    Toronto, Canada

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  1. Their Jaguar kit has a bunch of resin by Aires.
  2. Hi there,

    Love the insightful thoughts you shared on the hunting thread. It shows you are a caring and responsible person. I hope your views influence others in a positive way too.



  3. Hi Fred, I believe there might be too much width discrepancy between the BB cockpit tub and the Academy kit to make things fit. You might be better off converting the kit's IP to backdate it to an analog one. Jake's F-16 book is an excellent resource for such a conversion. I actually build a CONA F-16B conversion using the Academy Sufa kit a couple of years ago. The difficult parts were the cockpit backdating and the vert fin base conversion. Here is my WIP thread: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=248178&st=0&p=2359855&hl=f-16b&fromsearch=1entry2359855 Terry
  4. Thanks for the heads-up. Did she have a firewall installed on her computer? Terry
  5. That's a real shame. I was very looking forward to a 1/32 Tiger kit. I would have bought two - one to be built with shark mouth, the other in Blue Angels. Hopefully Fisher Models will see an opening and come up with a resin one. Terry
  6. *Almost* finished now. Only missing items are the leading edge guns, hanging the bombs under the wings, and some minor touch-up. Terry
  7. Good progress made on the big Russian tube. I did some post-shading, then gloss coated it with Alclad Klear Kote, then a panel line wash, then applied some generic bort number and red star decals by Delta One. Now here she is: Next I'll work on the various odds and ends (landing gears, ordnance, pitots etc), then flat coat and final assembly. Thank you for looking. Terry
  8. Since the kitchen has better lighting than in my hobby dungeon, I thought I'd show you the post shaded build there: Next up is painting the dielectic panel on the vert fin tip, then the bombs, then gloss coat and decals. Terry
  9. I've done touching up and further weathering and effects on the camouflage over the weekend. First I worked on the green. This is how the camo looks without the effects: I misted on patches of yellow on the green: Then I added a drop of the green into Tamiya clear gloss (almost like a green tint), and sprayed it over the yellow to blend it back into the green: Now tan patches over the dark brown: then tied it back with brown tinted Tamiya clear gloss: It's still looks somewhat "meh" at the moment, but once I do some post shading, highlight the panel lines, then tie everything together with weathering and a flat coat, it will look better. For the tan, it's already quite light so I don't think the fading effect is needed. I do need to post shade it and weather it with some grime, though. There are still some touching up, and the odds and ends to be painted (tail interior, pitot tube and such, dielectric panel etc). Then I'll gloss the whole thing and apply decals. Terry
  10. Masking. Priming. 4-tone camouflage painting (free-hand). All done. Lots of touching up to do, though. Terry
  11. Perfect. Thank you. Terry
  12. I'm holding the kit in my hands now. It uses the same radome as the original kit (part #206, same as my Revell Germany F-4F kit from a couple years ago). There is no retooled radome. Personally I don't care about the radome's shape, this is a decent kit at a very good price. Does anyone make a 1/32 F-4G decal sheet that is READILY available? Thank you. Terry
  13. I'm a bit on the opposite end of the spectrum - I actually enjoy fitting resin aftermarket sets into plastic kits. I enjoy the improved level of details, and I view any fitting problems as challenges that are fun to solve. I can't say the same for PE sets, though. I don't like their flattened look therefore I find them to be a less effective media for cockpits. Therefore whenever possible, I avoid using them and look for resin alternatives when it comes to improving details. Then there are full resin kits. While successfully installing a beautifully detailed resin cockpit set gives you immense satisfaction, that level of high is exponentially greater when completing an ultra rare (and/or ultra challenging) resin or short run kit. While you admire your handy work, you also revel in the fact that it is likely only one of dozens (or less) of the kit that's EVER built. What I hate about modeling is researching the subjects that I build. While I am nowhere near being a rivet counter, I do want my models to be mostly accurate. I just don't like to spend the effort to research them, preferring (or hoping) to leave that chore to the kit/decal/resin manufacturers. Terry
  14. While deciding whether to build a Czech jet or Soviet jet, I discovered a frustrating problem with the kit. According to Google pics, Czech jets did not have the outer wing pylons. Some Soviet jets and Polish jets have them, but not on any operational silver painted jets. The outer wing pylons were only found on museum displays (Soviet and Polish) that were painted silver, or camo'd Soviet jets. After some more research, I found that the outer pylons were installed after 1972, by which time the Soviet jets were camouflage painted, and Czech AF might have retired their fleet already. The problem with the kit is the base of the outer pylons are integrally cast into the wing, and it extends all the way to the flaps. Therefore in order to build a Czech NMF jet or any silver painted jets, I'd need to Dremel off the base, which runs a high risk of ruining the very thinly cast wings. Here is how the base looks like for the outer pylon, notice it goes all the way to the flaps: So I think I'll just go build whatever that pleases me, and leave the pylons in there. So at this moment I'm digging NMF with multiple shades of Alclad, with Soviet red stars and some generic red bort numbers. In other news, I closed up the canopy bulk head with a plastic sheet with fictitious details. The whole thing is filled with fishing weights and is deceptively heavy. Also working on the ordnance: Terry
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