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frogman13

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Everything posted by frogman13

  1. Hi Guys, Here are some photos of a 1/32 Trumpeter A4-M Skyhawk that I converted to the Israeli version A4-N. I used some resin parts from the "WolfpacK Israeli A4-H/N conversion. The Israeli markings are from Isradecal. This model represents an Israeli Skyhawk from #115 squadron as it would have appeared in the 1982 "First" Lebanon war.
  2. AfV club is the best in 1/35 scale. They made at least 6 versions. 4 of them Israeli types and 1 Australian and 1 NATO. Here's one I did of an Israeli, 1973 war. Great kit and easily available.
  3. I just finished the Revell UH-1D kit and granted, it needed some detailing but when it was finished it looked like a Huey. There probably are flaws that if I was to dwell on these, I may not have built it at all. I decided I was going to get it done and have a fairly accurate replica in my collection for a VERY reasonable price. Even the newest kits today, aircraft and armor, have dimensional issues which if you are a purist would be a no-go to buy that kit. You might wait 20 years before another scale model of that subject is manufactured. Or, you can cut it to pieces and rebuild the whol
  4. Here are more progress photos leading up to the finish. The model was completed last month but the website only allows 10 photos per post. Here are the finished pictures. Hope you like my effort on this one... :D
  5. Hi Guys, Just finished this one after spending about 4 months bringing it up to a higher standard. I built it as an Israeli Air Force UH-1D from sometime around the 1973 Yom Kippur War. Revell 1/32 is a good place to start a detailing project and their older kits might be the only available kit in this scale. The recent re-release of this kit made it available again, but keep in mind this one was first released in 1967 !! So I've photogrpahed some of the more apparent detailing of the kit and I also decided to include the crew and passengers for the cabin as well.. Hope you like it. Ed
  6. Hi Guys, I'm looking to buy or trade for a Revell 1/32 UH-1D. I've got a lot (tons really) of unbuilt kits, mostly 1/48th, I'd like to trade if anybody is interested. I can't seem to find this old kit anywhere... Need it to complete a collection of Israeli models I've been working on seems like forever... Oh, and a Revell Piper cub too.... Thanks in advance, ED http://edokunscalemodelingpage.blogspot.com/
  7. Hi Guys, Here are some photos of my latest aircraft build, the Tamiya 1/32 "Early" F4-E Phantom II. This is the hard-wing version with short cannon fairing. The building was slowed by necessity to remove all the "Battle damage patches" scattered on the fuselage of the Tamiya kit. In actuality, these DO NOT appear on the F4 and may have been copied by Tamiya research from a plane that had them. Sanding and rescribing were required. I used the Avionix cockpit set, Eduard photo-etch F4-E "BIG" set for the F-4 includes all the little things to make this an "OH WOW" model. The armament is asym
  8. Hi Chris, Had you ever considered a BN conversion for the MiG-23 ? A lot of us would have loved it if trumpeter had produced that option but since they likely won't maybe we could look to you. Here's another post where the question of conversion came up; http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=280400 By the way, I ordered some of your AIM9-D Sidewinders and they turned out terrific. Thanks for those. Happy Holidays, Ed Okun
  9. Hi Guys, Here's the link to the full build-up on my blogspot with some historical facts and tips on building the Israeli F4-E "Kurnass". http://edokunscalemodelingpage.blogspot.com/ ED Okun
  10. Thanks, I will. Wouldn't want some pinhead judge to deduct points for that..:-) ED
  11. Hi Jari, I used the Israedecal F4-E stencil sheet which come in areas connected with clear decal sheet. So basically lining up on some panel lines and you can place multiple decals together. Sometimes this technique is not fitting 100% so I cut some and placed individually. Also all that clear decal can lead to silivering problems. No matter how glossy my under surface was I still had to go over many areas again with softener. It did save a lot of time though in the end. Total time for complete decal placement was about 6 hours maybe, spaced out over 4-5 days. ED
  12. Gianni, You have done a beautiful job on your 107 squadron Kurnass !! Simply beautiful. I love the Orange tail scheme as well. Thanks for linking me to your build. Best Regards, ED
  13. Hi 11bee, Regarding the mixed load of armament. I attached an asymmetric load of 3 X M117s on the right inboard pylon and 2 X AIM-9D on the left inboard as seen in multiple photos from the IAF in the Yom Kippur war. See this photo from IAF #107sq. I had seen at least one photo of the combined load of M117 & mk82s which verified the authenticity of the mix. Honestly, I would have used all M117s but I didn't have enough of the resin M117 bombs to complete the bombload.
  14. Hi Chris, The Green color is "Testors Modelmaster" enamel: Pale Green FS34227 ED
  15. Hi Guys, Thanks very much for the kind words. I appreciate your comments. Here's a few more pics of this build for those that asked.. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone that's celebrating ! Ed Okun
  16. Hi Guys, I finished this model over the weekend and of course wanted to show it off. I started it about 4 months ago. It is the early version (without wing slats) F4-E from Tamiya in 1/32nd scale. In addition, I used the "Avionix" F4-E resin cockpit, "Eduard" photo-etch detail sets and some other after-market items to make this bird as authentic as possible. It represents an Israeli F4-E Phantom II from 119sq. "The Bats". The odd weapons load-out is configured asymmetrically for an ABA (Air Base Attack)mission and armed with (3) X M117 bombs, (6) X Mk82 bombs, and (2) X AIM-9D Sidewinder
  17. Hi, After 45 years of scale modeling, I can tell you I have struggled with filling seams like anybody else. I've used many different materials to get this basic model building task done. Anybody that has sanded super-glue (cyanoacrylate)filled seams knows that too much sanding is not a good thing. Softer plastic can be eroded away before the fill material, leaving an undesirable depression next to the seam. Delicate panel lines can also be entirely destroyed by this method. I have found that in some instances a bead of white glue in the seam can solve the problem without any sanding at all
  18. I was asked by another modeler to repost this here. It originally appeared in the "jet modeling" forum as a reply to his problem with decals wrinkling after using the Microscale system. here it is: Hi, The Microscale decal setting solutions (Set & Sol) should always be used together for the best outcome. I found that out after a few attempts where the decal silvered even over a gloss coated model surface. As is, out of the bottle, Micro-set will form droplets on a gloss coat. That is really not acceptable for the purpose of creating a liquid surface free of air bubbles for the decal t
  19. Hi, The Microscale decal setting solutions (Set & Sol) should always be used together for the best outcome. I found that out after a few attempts where the decal silvered even over a gloss coated model surface. As is, out of the bottle, Micro-set will form droplets on a gloss coat. That is really not acceptable for the purpose of creating a liquid surface free of air bubbles for the decal to bed down on. What I always do with a fresh bottle of Micro-Set solution is add 2 drops of liquid dish-washing soap to relax the surface tension of the liquid. Don't shake the bottle, just a stir.
  20. Hi Guys, OK, Don't get excited yet....This is more of a poll. I started this post to just get some idea if ANYBODY on this planet (besides me) would like to see a kit manufacturer (Trumpeter are you there?) produce a 1/32nd scale Sukhoi-7. The Su-7 was a huge beast, almost invulnerable and used by quite a few countries. It saw combat in the India-Pakistan war in 1971 and at least a couple of Arab-Israeli wars. The color schemes applied to this plane were awesome. I think we have enough WW-II subjects to last any modeler his lifetime building, there are plenty of Mig's and later version Suk
  21. Hi Guys, I've started my own blog about the 20th century Arab-Israeli wars. No advertising yet, Only showcasing scale models (my own for now) of the 1967 & 73 wars from both the Israeli and Arab forces. Hope you'll check it out and leave your comments. If you like it recommend it to someone else who has an interest. Here's the link: http://edokunscalemodelingpage.blogspot.com/ Ed Okun/ Frogman13
  22. Hi Guys, Here's my trumpeter 1/32nd scale MiG-17. It took a lot of work to get it to this result as the model is very basic. The kit windscreen is wrong for a MiG-17C so I used the "Squadron" MiG-15 vacuform canopy and adjusted it to fit. The landing gear doors are detailed with styrene sheet as well as detailing in the wheel wells. The cockpit had quite abit of work done to it and I tried to give this area as much attention to detail as possible. The paint is Alclad II and I used differing shades of aluminum and steel to get the effect I wanted. The markings are accurate for an Egyptia
  23. Bringing it all together. I painted the depression in the foam with a dark brown paint and then used clear epoxy (2-part "Super Glaze" Ultra Gloss Epoxy) mixed with pigment powder to get the muddy water effect that I intended my MiG tail to sit in. Around the puddle are water plants made from 2"in. paint brush bristles. I scraped some very bright green pigment around the edges of the water to simulate pond scum. This technique actually came out looking pretty good although I was in doubt when I did it. Some colored railroad ground-cover glued around to give an impression of sparse vegetatio
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