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EZhotshot511

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About EZhotshot511

  • Rank
    Canopy Polisher
  • Birthday 05/11/1995

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    Male
  • Location
    FL, USA

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  1. Thank you 11bee, we'll see how it looks when it all comes together! Here's option D that I chose: Question for anyone with the knowledge: I assume that personal/unit makings such as the grey/green tailplane/elevator on this aricraft would be painted over any factory stencils. Any reason I should apply decal 85 as per the instructions? I'm thinking no. Also if I should move this thread to In-progress, let me know. Wasnt sure where to stick it. Thanks,
  2. Greetings all, Started my first ever WWI kit, and so far it's great fun. There's just something about the whole WnW package. Ridiculously expensive but very alluring. My stash went from 0 to 6 in as many weeks. This is my first build with rigging, first attempt at wood grain, first biplane since childhood, first, first, first, etc. All suggestions welcome! Anyways, couldnt resist some extras, some of which will need a 10x magnifier to even notice, but I'll know its there. I spent a good 30 min removing the kit seat pad while trying to sa
  3. Thank you Sir! That definitely helps!
  4. Very interesting! I will definitley be around to hear whatever you gentlemen may find out. Could anyone recommend particular books (that are available) that would be a good technical references for very late war japanese aircraft?
  5. Greetings, I am attempting to understand why Eduard, back in the 90's when it tooled its PE sets for the 1/48 Tamiya M6A1 Seiran (item # 48219) and the 1/48 Hasegawa B7A Ryusei (Grace) (item # 48220), provided double shoulder straps for the seatbelts. In fact they are patterned identically for both aircraft, and more resemble contemporary American or Luftwaffe seatbelts than any other Japanese example. I do not know of any WWII Japanese aircraft having a shoulder strap for each shoulder, if any at all. The peculiar thing here is that Tamiya included double shoulder strapped seatbe
  6. Thanks gents! I appreciate your kind words. I've been attending med school interviews so I haven't been able to get much time in on the Grace but I managed to get the fuselage all buttoned up and am working on removing the seams with sanding and Mr. Surfacer 500. Also got the landing gear all painted and have started work on the inert practice torpedo (from the Hasegawa B5N kit) that I'm going to attach externally. As you can see I used a fine sharpie to put some color into the ledges of the seams, that way once I've sanded away the black ink I know I have a smooth surf
  7. Well, I've been away from the bench for a while due to work and travel but here's an update as to where I am at with the Ryusei: As per my previous post, I bought Vallejo Model Color "glossy black" and experimented with thinning it down using my own homemade acrylic thinner and spraying it....that did not work whatsoever. It clogged the nozzle almost immediately and splattered far worse than the Testors paint which caused the original issue above. I next tried Model Master gloss black, thinned about half way. This worked like a charm and produced a great glossy smooth surface for
  8. Any pics of the lonestar XF4U conversion kit?
  9. Not much to update for the past couple days as I have been busy with other things. I have started filling the awkward seams in the wings and rescribing the control surface demarcation lines. I use Bondo auto body filler and it seems to work well. I wiped some of the excess away before the filler had set up fully. There were some prominent ejector pin marks in the wheel well doors that needed to be fixed so I broke out the sanding sticks and Mr. Surfacer This kit has some of the thinnest prop blades of any kit I've ever built, very nice. Just have
  10. Finished up the night by gluing the wing halves together. Fujimi wasn't thinking with their best brains when they seperated the ailerons (and rudder) right down the middle and not at the hinge line, so those will be pesky gaps to fill but other than that, the fit is quite nice. This is my first post (and build) in quite some time so please let me know if my images are visible and comments and suggestions are always welcome! Next up on deck is the engine (suggestions on colors for japanese engines welcome!) and painting the interior. I am currenlty waiting on
  11. Greetings All! My excuse for buying and building this kit is that I am gifting it to a friend who's name happens to be Grace, but in actuallity I'm just taking the chance to delve into some Japanese (in subject and country of manufacture) plastic! This little gem is of particular interest to me for its lesser known nature (Im a sucker for the obscure) as well as its prototypical paint scheme. Being a University of Florida grad I have a soft spot for the combo of aotake blue and prototype yellow-orange Anyways, on with the show: Ohhhhhh that lovely tangelo st
  12. Hey all, I want a new Airbrush and I have narrowed it down to either the Tamiya SF or the Tamiya HG. Now this is my second airbrush after my Badger 150 (which has given me only 1 acceptable paint job even after having it for 2 years ). My question is: Do I really need the "0.5mm" paint line capability of the Super Fine airbrush? And can the SF tackle a 1/32 scale model paint job all by itself? Thanks for the help. --Erich
  13. 3M Acryl-blue is not a 2 part putty, hardens right out of the tube.
  14. Is this the 3M Acryl Blue stuff i've heard about? I guess i'd better get off my butt and go get some! Is there anything the white putty is good for other than seem filing? I lost the receipt...
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