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About ChrisRRR

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    Canopy Polisher

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  1. Wonder who will be the first to put a 'real' one as a gatekeeper someplace :)
  2. Decals for the intake interior? That's brilliant! Revell, y u no make intake decals!!!
  3. Maybe you want to try using length of stretched sprue and a good shot of tamiya extra thin cement. Glue this in the gap, let it harden, sand it and use the filler only to get rid of the small remaining gaps. This at no extra costs reinforces the bond between the two halves and minimizes the amount of shrinking and cracking prone filler
  4. Outstanding paintjob :) Will definetly use this as a reference when painting my Revell G6, should I ever finish it ^^
  5. Very nice 14 you have there :) For some reason I especially like the weathering of the prop blades. Will try to copy that on my next 109 ;) How did you create the isolators on the antenna? Also, very clean work on the nose area! I built that kit, too, and it was a little struggle for me to get it all clean there. I would love to see the faded paintjob in a different lighting setup. I think your lamp "overpowers" the paintjob in the images a bit.
  6. In case of emergency it is also possible to "thin" the paint with future. I did that once with Tamiya smoke because I wanted to lower the opacity for better coverage control while I was out of X-20.
  7. Greetings y'all! While browsing the galleries for builds of Revell's current 109G-6 I came to wonder: Most modern kits allow us to position rudder/ailerons/elevator in a deflected position. But the control column in pretty much every build still points up straight from the cockpit floor. With the elevator dropped, shouldn't the column lean towards the instrument panel? Has anyone ever took care of this detail? Might be just a minor thing, but once you know it is blatantely obvious everytime you see it ;) What is your opinion?
  8. Thanks, Don! Very much appreciated. EDIT: Had to edit out the "rudder markings" so that I can use the pictures in german modelling forums. Just in case anyone wondered...
  9. Finished this today :) It's Hase's well-known representation of Marseille's ride. As usual there are some "happy little accidents" in the build, but I try to improve the results with every model. The bad parts I can already point out are the weathering on the underside again came out a bit too heavy. Also I had a little accident with the "14" decal on the right side and had to fix that with an emergency surgery. And last but not least: Dust. I always have to fight dust when painting my models. They are clean and pristine, and while spraying I can already see dust settling on the model. But w
  10. I very much like the Gunze Range, since they're a breeze to spray. As for how "TRVE" they are I don't know...
  11. TBH I never really "use" the pressure gauge. I have set it once to ~20psi, and with every cup of paint I load into my airbrush I spray a few lines on a piece of paper and give the regulator a little bit of twist in this direction, a little bit in that direction, until the spray pattern looks nice. Since I never ever get the same mix ratio in my paint, this 15s of adjusting is all I need.
  12. I had the same trouble with airbrushing Future. Always ended up with some runs here and there. As I wrote above, I nowadays just brush it on with a flat soft paintbrush. It dries to a very smooth surface. 1 or 2 thin layers are normally sufficient for a nice decal-ready finish. Edit: For removing Future, I've heard that ammonia-based Windex does the job quite well. Stay away from Isopropyl-Alcohol and the likes. Here are two of my results for evaluation:
  13. Never tried mixing it into the water, but Future can also be applied with a broad soft brush and it will level out without any brushmark. I normally do 2-3 thin layers with the brush. Future is also very forgiving when not applied to heavily. Might be worth a try to brush it only on the parts where the decals go?
  14. Thanks everybody for the kind words :) it's a constant learning pocess, and the next airliner will benefit from this build. I'll make sure to lighten the Payne's grey a bit before the wash, so that the panel lines are not thaaat popping. Oh, and also thanks everyone for focusing your comments on the actual model, and not on the photo background. I know it's kinda bad, and next time it will be better.
  15. Ok, my fault ,the US version of wikipedia has the answer. US Army Aviation Museum, Fort Rucker. My bad, should have searched for a few more minutes before posting here......
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