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Homer

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About Homer

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    Canopy Polisher

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  1. Hello all, So after some sanding and filling, I think I have the cargo bay doors adequately positioned. As luck would have it, it's not the border between the beanie cap and the bay doors that has a step off, but actually the aft edge of the bay doors and the start of the OMS pods that doesn't fit correctly. The slight step off here I tried to address with some shims. This will all be underneath some thermal quilts, so I think I can get away with this level of crude approximation of the interface. My heart stopped when I lit it up and had a hu
  2. Okay, I finally received the Li-ion batter, the AA-sized battery holder, and pushbutton switches for the project. While a AA-sized battery seems to fit easily in the wheel well, I didn't calculate the extra volume of the battery holder. To keep the height of the holder within the size constraints of the space, I would need to mount it sideways, partially in the main fuselage space. Furthermore, the battery holder had these little retention wings that would make it difficult to pop the battery in and out from this angle, so I trimmed
  3. I put in some more design time this week to try to make some improved OMS pods with the tile detail. Here is what I have so far: If anyone could help me, please, I could use some assistance finding more images that show the details on the medial edge here adjacent to the tail (circled in green): This is the best one I could fine online of this area: And also blueprints/diagrams/images that show the tiling detail on the aft surfaces here, including on the pedestal that the AJ10 nozzle is mounte
  4. Thanks Pete and Manfred. I am waiting for the arrival of the Li ion battery and the battery holder, so I won't be able to make much more progress with the build until those arrive in a few weeks. I did place two LEDs inside the beanie cap (not on the scaffolding), one underneath each starboard and port panels in the aft portion of the compartment. I ran out of warm white so the port side has a cool white LED, as seen here in the photo. I also raised the port rear LED that illuminates the CCTV monitors by a little bit. Previously the light from this LED wouldn't ill
  5. Much to my relief, the canopy glue seems to have held. The tiled cap is seated close enough to the beanie cap case that I think the step in the seam will be hidden underneath the thermal blanket layer. I cracked the tiled cap from all of my fiddling to get it to seat correctly that I will have to disguise. Now, the test is to see if the backlit displays and control panels will be visible despite the interior light. First, I needed to make a scaffolding to mount the warm white SMD LEDs outside the cap. Rather than mount them to t
  6. Thanks Manfred. I think it's safe to say that your work motivates a lot of us during our builds, and hopefully not just in our moments of despair. Okay, so I am being more careful this second time with the window glass to cut my panes to conform closer to the actual visible portion and not extend to the edges of the polygonal flat surfaces, so as not to create any unnecessary volume that will mess with the proper seating of the tiled cap. I am only applying four dots of canopy glue to the corners to secure the glass, since the panes are going to be sandwic
  7. Thank you Aussie and K2 Petes for the encouragement, and I'm moved to hear of DutyCat's death. He was quite a kind correspondent via e-mail when I started this project and encouraged me to press on with my attempt to make a more ambitious beanie cap. Okay, so brief detour into following Primed Model Works' excellent recommendations for straightening the cargo bay and creating a little slot and tongue to align and reinforce the bay doors. So, as usual for my mediocre modeling skills, I got ahead of myself and primed and light-blocked the hull since I
  8. Next installment, cap assembly. Here are the pieces. Please note the layout of the numbers for the overhead bags here: I slid the ceiling portion above into place over the flight deck, and ran a bead of cyano around the edge of the aft wall. Then I slid the assembly into its slot on the beanie cap base. I clamped the ceiling and applied cyano around the join in the front. On the underside, I inserted the interdeck hatch plugs into both sides and glued them in place.
  9. Hello all, Thank you to those modelers who have purchased these parts. I hope that they are useful to your builds. After a brief(?) hiatus, I resumed work on the flight deck. I was unhappy with the monochrome orange color that resulted from painting the ACES outfits with acrylic, so after much trial and error, I followed some guidance from more experienced modelers and used oil washes. This way, the pigment collected like a wash in the crevices and folds, and added depth, or at least, didn't obliterate any of the surface details. After priming with white,
  10. My apologies for the long delay in updates. I was working on another build and am currently in the process of moving so I had to pack up the model shop. I anticipate that I won’t have a model shop again until October when my household effects get delivered to my new location. In the meantime, Hotdog brought to my attention that cutting the fuselage kit halves to accommodate the beanie cap and RCS insert can be quite unforgiving to end up with the proper alignment with the payload bay doors, so I wanted to post the measurements that I came up with here. These are based on Dutycat
  11. Hi Tim, Thanks for the kind compliment about my shuttle parts. The flight deck in my model is patterned to simulate the glass cockpit upgrade to Atlantis that occurred in 1998: https://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/shuttle/flyout/glass_cockpit.html Thus, STS-27 took place 10 years before this upgrade occurred. I suspect that you would be able to modify my decal sheet to make the screens up front look more like the older cockpit layout without too much effort, but if you want to backlight the displays, that might look a little funky since the cutout
  12. Hi Tim, I am skeptical that the Cricut Maker would reliably cut metal any thicker than aluminum foil. In addition to blunting the blade quickly, I think the bigger limiting factor will be due to the adhesion mechanism they use to stick material to the cutting mats. The mats are coated with a sticky Post-It note type glue. If you try to cut a material that is above a certain level of rigidity, I am guessing that the piece will detach from the mat under the shearing force imposed by the blade. I end up using Illustrator mostly for the vector graphics design. I have A
  13. Hi Tim, Yes, I have tried cutting styrene sheet a little, and it worked quite well. I cut some 0.010 inch thickness styrene sheet with the fine point blade that comes with the device and it worked just fine - the results were clean and certainly better than what I could do by hand. I bought the more robust knife blade but haven’t used it yet. The product information states that you can cut thin balsa wood with the knife blade, so I believe that it should work as well with thicker styrene sheet. You can customize the pressure that the machine exerts for a given
  14. Thank you K2Pete for the encouragement, and Tracy for the kind offer. Tracy, let me see how the 1/72 version of the beanie cap/flight deck works with other modelers and if the response is positive and the demand for the 1/100 Tamiya version of the parts are high, I'll consider trying to scale it down. It will require a lot of work to redo this in 1/100 scale with the geometries adjusted to match the Tamiya orbiter. One of the modelers kindly let me know that those handles for the pilot and commander are not throttles, but controls for the speed brakes. I am quite appreciative fo
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