CorsairMan

I feel so disappointed.... you guys didn't warn me about the wing joints! :) Just Kidding - actually everone here has been very helpful and encouraging! So far this is the only 'snag' on the build. It has been going much better than I ever remember a model falling together. Wow - the outer wings refuse to line up properly. If I put a 'slight' twist pressure, I get a decent joint but I have no idea how I am going to rig that up to keep that pressure until glue dries. I'm going to have to think about that one. I have weathered the fuselage interior, the cowl flaps and the gear doors (on

Thanks for the pics Anthony!! the kit part looks nothing like that! I managed to find one from a model mag, but it is a 'front on shot' and that makes it hard to figure out how to make the windscreen. I also see there is a small piece of angled glass for the sight - I was wondering about that. I've seen these types of sights before and they always have that angled glass to reflect the aim lines.... but models do not seem to have this small piece...

Can anyone tell me where I could find some pics of the Corsair gunsight/armor screen? All shots I have show only the instruments and side panels.... If anyone has a pic, could they send it to me!?!?! Thanks!

Thanks Jamie - this is becoming the all around learning experience. Thanks Thundervett - your 104 is an inspriation. Someday I may be brave enough to chop open a plane. The strangest 'trick' I've learned is the use of floor wax in modelling! I wonder who was the first to stumble upon that one... likely a Johnson's sales rep! Thanks Anthony - I am about to get onto that step. Do you know where I can find a picture of the actual armour panel? Now that I know the kit part is not correct, I am interested in scratch building one. I'll look through my reference photos again as well. L

WOW! You really did well with the pre-shade/base coat combo. It looks great!

I have had some progress with this build: 1) added the wash to the cockpit components and sidewalls of the cockpit; 2) 'zink chromated' the interior sections including all wheel wells; 3) assembled the cockpit; 4) drilled out the exhausts (lesson - one must have patience for this!); and 5) assembled the outer wings. Thanks for the tip, Charlie - I will look into those decals. I really like the tri-colour paint of Solomons Corsairs. At this time it seems that adding decals will occur years from now. Then again, once I wash and drybrush the interior(s), assembly is right around the co

Hello, I got my 155 off the ebay. I am trying to do panel line pre-shading with it on a 1/48 prop. I am not doing so well.... Should I try to get a finer tip/needle? Where do I get such a thing? I live in Canada.

I love the latches and mirrors on the canopy.. are these scratch or part of an aftermarket kit?

A small update - I am still trying to get some time to shoot the interior zinc chromate and do a wash of the cockpit. I have some time off for the holidays so I expect to make some progress then. In the meantime, I have taken advantage of a number of 'published' builds of this model. Modelling with the aid of the internet makes things so much easier. I am not sure of the ARC policy for publishing other sites in a forum so I will not provide the addresses but I have looked over the articles written by scottsmodels, Tom Cleaver, David Aungst, Kevin Jordan and the 'photo spread' build in this

Thanks. This is the first time I have ever tried to use wire. There are 2 types - 0.10 Brass wire for the cowl flaps. The brass is good at holding a shape. I simply laced it through the scratch built brackets. The wire for the spark plugs is stipped copper electrical wire and it is thinner than 0.10. However, I don't know what size it is. The wiring for the main gear is thin copper electrical wire which was wound around a 0.30 wire in order to form a 'spring'. Making the spring was easy, taking it off the 0.30 wire was tricky! The brake line is 0.30 copper wire. As an aside,

Hello ARC, the last time I built a model I was in high school and I had never heard of Future or acrylic paints! Since that time school, overseas, more school and a demanding job have prevented me getting back to building airplanes. But that was before I stumbled across ARC about a year ago. What an amazing site! Very inspirational for someone like me. The techniques you guys (and girls) use were completely foreign to me - as were your results. Anyhow - I have decided to use a few of your tips and pics and build my very own Corsair (my favourite airplane). The goal in this is to get b

I have the Anthem too - got it last month on an unbelievable ebay purchase. I am still learning how to use it (I have been out for well over 10 years). So far so good. I am a little worried about panel lines - I practiced the other day and the 'fine line' was not so fine all the time. I am a little inconsistent. Any tips? Should I get a smaller needle?

Try this article - I think it will tell you all you are looking for: http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/pdf/q...yweathering.pdf

ok - so I should do a thin acrylic wash over acrylic?? I suppose the idea of detergent would be to break up any surface tension. I also suppose that using windex would be a bad idea as that might strip off paint as well.... I was thinking of getting some artists oils and mineral spirits this weekend for a wash - but now I am not so sure.... I am thinking of putting up some 'in progress pics' this weekend. so far I have done the engine, I have put the actuating wire for the cowl flaps on (with scratch brackets) and I am putting the plumbing into the wheelwells. I want to get started on

What is a 'backflush?"

Wow! I didn't know that. I guess I'll be finding an art supply store with some reasonably priced oils and whatever 'mineral spirits' are.... Or I will try the acrylic wash - but it just doesn't seem like the right thing to do. By the way - when I used to model, I airbrused enamels exclusively. I decided to go acrylics this time. I like the clean up MUCH better.

dumb question - does enamel = oil? I always thought so but reading some of the entries on this forum, I am beginning to think not.

Hello, I just began my first model in over a decade. This weekend I sprayed the engine components with a tamiya acrylic (dark silver) and a gunze acrylic (sky grey and black). Tonight I decided to try an enamel wash (testors flat black and flat brown in a 1:10 paint to thinner ratio) I applied the wash and, to my horror, it seems to have stripped a lot of the basecoat off the parts. I think I can fix most of it, but wow, this really changes how I had planned on doing the model! I was under the impression that an enamel would not interfere with the acrylic basecoat.... did I miss somethin

Thanks for the replies!! And for the help. Ok here is a picture - I think that ought to work or maybe this one: I have never used a hosting site before. I will look for a diaphram for this unit. I am just getting back into the hobby, I want to ease into it! Chris

there is no oil sight... I could post a picture. It just looks like a standard compressor. There is no on/off switch. I turned it on and it worked, I am just concerned about prolonged use after all these years of 0 maintenance.

Hello, I am getting back into this hobby after a 10+ year break. My old compressor (a W.R. Brown Speedy model) has not been turned on for at least that long. I never had any maintenance instructions with the unit. What sort of maintenance, lubrication, etc. should I do for the unit before using it again? Does anyone have any manuals they can scan? Any help appreciated! CorsairMan

Hello, I've been out of the hobby for some time. i want to get back in and I still have my trusty old WR BRown (or something like that) compressor. However, I want to get a decent regulator/moisture trap. Any suggestions as to what I should get and where I should get this? Thanks, CorsairMan

Nice build! Can you tell me what 'green' you used for the interior? Thanks!

I'm working on the same kit... Can you share your paint selections? I am not sure what color to do the inside... Thanks!