godhika

Here is an profile of the plan in question. i also vaguely remember the topic beeing discussed here once. Regards, dominik Edit: found it here

Eduard makes spraying masks for the phantom stencils. Perhaps that would be an option for you? Hope this helps, Dominik

As far as I understand it, the exhaust and the wheelbays for a singleseater and a double seater should be the same. Regarding the ejection seats, I think quickboost is a subcompany of aires - the difference is basically that aires items also include photo etched parts which are representd on the quickboost version solely in resin. It comes down to a matter of taste: with PE your able to replicate even smaller details, but they are also more fiddley. hope this helps. regards, Dominik

he mkimages, I am also trying to figure out how to replicate the have glass finish for quite a while, and while looking through some in progress threads of some other (but nonhaveglass) vipers here on ARC and stumbled upon something interesting. look at this thread and especially the first picture in post number 73. I think this looks quite like the haveglass paint so perhaps a random misting with future could replicate the metallic sheen, seen on these jets?just an idea, regards dominik

Since I only trust Afterburner, TwoBobs and the other decal guys arround here, I am just wondering since the TwoBobs seem to be OOP?

Thanks mate . That was exactly the kind of answer I was looking for.

Another option would be the Aires set (no 4125) (with feathers) Regards, Dominik

There are also some photos of it over on f-15estrikeeagle.com (look under data link pods). Dominik

I find its qite nice that Revell included intake covers, but I couldnt find any pictures of a jet fitted with the hard type. the soft plugs or the covers (the one that Darren Roberts makes) seem to be a lot more common. So my question would be are the ones in the kit still used (or, if not in which timeframe were they), and has anyone pics of them fitted to a plane? Thanks, Dominik

I am searching for a realstic method to model concrete some time after a rainshower. You know the grooves where some puddle of water is left, the darker color on wet spots and the lighter ones where the sun has allready dried the concrete. Also how do you simulate the effect of "wetness" on the plane you model? regards, Dominik

I am sick of trying to get all that resin cockpit sets to fit. I enjoy bringing all the details to life with carefull painting, drybrushing etc but I hate all that sanding.So I am searching for a kit with great cockpit details (the rest should also be accurate, I dont have a problem with raised panel lines). At the moment i got the Revell Strike Eagle on the table, and its details are just wow. So which other kits fitting this critereas are out there (I know the Tamiya Viper has a good pit OOB, and I heard that some of the old Monogramm kits also have great details, but which ones? )Ladies and

Before you go to the pastells, I would suggest an intermdiate step: Take a very fine grit sanding paper (the ones usd to remove dust etc in cars paint job) and go over the surface more or less randomly. This will have several effects: It will blur the differences between the paints a little bit, lightening up the color up slightly and gives the surface some randome fine nuances in mattness (this will make the pastell layer look more natural, as there is big difference in how well the pastells will stick to the surface according to the sheen of the area). This is how I do the paintjobs on singl

I am searching for a method to shallow the panel lines on my strike eagle build, because looking at the picture of the real thing many of them seem to almost(!) non existent, and for my taste, the ones on the revell kit are very nice, but to deep. I was thinking about a) filling them with Mr Surfacer and hope that it is shrinking enough, so that a very very small grain remains, or completly eliminate them and scratch the paint after a good coat of primer slightly with a needle (saw this at LSP on a scratchbuilt Tempest or Typhoon, and the results were amazing) Your oppinions please Dominik

In my opinion, the kits side control panels are even more accurate then the Aires pit. I regrett trying to make it fit, the next time I will just use the main instrument panel cover and the seat (the Aires sets are pretty cheap over here in europ). A plus is the WAR hud. For the details behind the seat, i would go with the eduard set. If you get it cheap, use some bits, but otherwise, I would go with the kits pit + Eduard. Trying to make it fit is more trouble than its worth. And I must say I am usually a big fan of the Aires products

I have to admit, the Draken grows on me. Especialy after seeing it do a .