jnick Posted December 16, 2003 Share Posted December 16, 2003 Since I can't paint my A-10 (no compressor) untilk Christmas (if I get one) I decided to assemble the bombs on the pylons. All was going SMOOTH on the 1 omb per pylon deal. Then we had to get into the 3 bombes per pyline 1/72 scale. Id glue the bottom bomb on. Then progress to one side. As I am gluing the one side on, the bomb on the bottom falls off. I waited about 3-5 mintutes before each bomb and used CA Medium thinckness. So I put it away. I took it out an hour ago, reassembled 3 or them. Then tried to re-do the 3 bombs per pylon. I started this at 5PM. Stoped at 5:30. Continued at 9:30. Well the same thing happened. Went to do a side, the bottom fell off AGAIN. So this kept happening about 2-3 times. Now I'm annoyed. I decided "bring out the nukes". I whipped out Ambroid. I used that, and the 2 pylons with 3 bombs are now successfully together (with the consequence of me gluing once with my dust mask off, and inhaling ambroid - a LOT!) Now I have on pylon left It's long. And holds 6 bombs. I have the bottom two on. Proceded to asseble the side. got one on. Go to the other side - 1 side falls off. I was so aggrevated, I had to stop. And this was with Ambroid!!! Not to metion, I not have to touch up about 2-3 pylons and about 2-3 bombs because the ambroid and CA ate through the enamel paint. All of this was painted months ago with TESTORS enamel paint. How can I AVOID this again. I mean, shouldn ambroid hold it? I would think CA would do the job. The CA was applied with a toothpick. I was holding everything in my hand, applying a little pressure. I need some tips, and some tips fast. Hopefully after school tomorrow I can come back here and find out some answers. I only have 3 bombs left, but how can I do this with out all of this trouble? Please help! (Ambroid can sure give you a headache when inhaled by accident!) Thanks, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul T Posted December 16, 2003 Share Posted December 16, 2003 John, Easy man....nice and easy,what do you want to do....have a stroke before the holidays? Now then cowboy ,what I use is Plasti-Zap , it`s a CA for plastic,although I`m sure most other CA`s will do. It`s quite thick and I have never had a problem. It may help if you scratch off some paint on the mating surfaces as the bond will be stronger. Also don`t over apply the CA ,just a couple of dabs will do ya. ALSO....a big help is CA kicker or "accelerator" just put a small drop on the parts where the glue was applied and it will instantly set&harden the CA. As far as the ambroid not sure old chum ,perhaps again try scraping away some of the paint on the mating surfaces. P.S.-did you ever get some Tenax glue? It`s a beautiful thing baby Take it easle : Paul T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MickeyThickey Posted December 16, 2003 Share Posted December 16, 2003 Removing paint from the glue surfaces will be a BIG help for long-term sturdiness. And if you're REALLY having problems, drilling holes in the bombs and plyon and joining the two with short lengths of fine wire will also work wonders. My process? Attach bomb on one pylon with CA. Squirt with accelerator. Set aside. Attach bomb on next pylon, squirt with accelerator and set aside. Repeat as necessary with however many MERs/TERS/whatever you need, then go back and attach the second bomb on your first pylon and again repeat as necessary. The accelerator will give a sturdy bond almost instantly, and within a minute or two it'll be as strong as it ever will be. Still, you're looking at tiny gluing surfaces that are easy to break, so CA won't last through rough handling - assemble them very gingerly. You can do the same thing with Pro-Weld, but you'd want to leave a good 15 - 20 minutes for each bomb to start to set up before moving on to the next. You could also do a combination, gluing them on with Pro Weld then flowing a little extra thin CA around the connectors and hitting them with accelerator. Sort of like gluing and nailing woodwork, the CA will hold the parts until the liquid glue dries, but it's the liquid glue that'll give the assembly its real strength. You DON'T want to be handling freshly glued parts though, so resist the temptation to glue ALL the bombs on a given rack in one go. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Filak Posted December 16, 2003 Share Posted December 16, 2003 And if you're REALLY having problems, drilling holes in the bombs and plyon and joining the two with short lengths of fine wire will also work wonders. This is really the best way to go. More often than not, I do this with most of my projects, and it goes a long way toward keeping everything sturdy. Usually, I'll also remove the locating pins on the MER/TER, and attach them to the aircraft with wire as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SBARC Posted December 16, 2003 Share Posted December 16, 2003 Yup....use wire or metal pins ....drill holes in bomb and pylon an dattach whole set-up with CA. This will hold the bombs forever. Bit more work but well worth the effort. Steve B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aggie96 Posted December 16, 2003 Share Posted December 16, 2003 I know that I was using Krazy Glue with some frustration. I picked up a tube/bottle of Quicktite CA Glue from Loctite at my local Target and I have to say, it dries much faster and stronger than the Krazy Glue seemed to. I could be inhaling too many fumes, like Brandy there, and they could be chemically the same, but that Quicktite has yet to do me wrong, even gluing painted parts to painted parts. I'm sold for life. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest rob clements Posted December 16, 2003 Share Posted December 16, 2003 get a bottle of ZIP Kicker as well to set ca off instantly. And take your time. What's the rush? I have taken 2 years to do about only 1/10 of the work on my 32nd scale A-10. Mainly cos I can't be bothered most of the time. LOL! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I.Illes Posted December 16, 2003 Share Posted December 16, 2003 Removing paint from the glue surfaces will be a BIG help for long-term sturdiness. Exactly my thoughts and you´ll see: it works. Easy man, the kit won´t run away. You know you need a lot of patience for modelling, so why hurry? It would be pretty sad if you´d ruin the kit because you want to finish it within 2 days. As for the compressor: ask our friends who brushpaint their kits and achieve great results! It´s only a question of wanting to do so. So calm down a bit and relax :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Filak Posted December 16, 2003 Share Posted December 16, 2003 I inhale Ambroid all the tiem and dunt seam tew have much affect on my meind. Folks, we all kid around about this, but please, especially the younger readers, DON'T intentionally inhale fumes from glues or solvents - it can cause permanent brain and central nervous system damage. Again, we all kid around, but this is serious, and worth mentioning. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest rob clements Posted December 17, 2003 Share Posted December 17, 2003 Have to agree with you there Steve. Happened to me some years ago when doing the Buccaneer fuselage. I was using large amounts of EMA Plastic Weld. Chloroform in reality. I felt unwell but could not pin it down. Several hospital appointments were undetaken, with the vampires there taking gallons of my blood. Eventually they found something had made my liver poorly. It was only when I went to my local chemists to see if they could supply Dichloromethane (plastic weld) in bigger bottles, that the Senior Chemist said 'what on earth are you doing with Chloroform?!!!!!!!!'. I said making plastic models, and it isnt chloroform its Plastic Weld! The chemist won that argument. Then the penny dropped when he told me what that stuff can do. I rang the hospital immediately and they confirmed that was the most likeley cause. I never even considered Plastic Weld was doing me damage. When I use it now, I make sure the room is really well ventilated and I use smaller amounts. The liver did get better after a course of tablets and a lay off from Chloroform, apart from the damage to it and my brain from plenty of alcohol over the years! Please be careful with the solvents (many are carcinogenic also) we have to use to make those wonderful aircraft models. Rob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jnick Posted December 17, 2003 Author Share Posted December 17, 2003 Thanks for all of the replies guys! As for rushing - I'm not in a rush at all. I technically re-picked up this kit in August, so by no means am I rushing to finish it in 2 days. Right after Christmas, I'll order myself some CA Accelerator, and will be sure to scrape he paint off. As far as the airbrush, I'd rather wait for a compressor then Brush paint it. Just my personal preference. Thanks a lot guys for all your help. I was SO annoyed last night!!! Btw, What are the best ways to hold the parts, for drying circumstances. Styrofoam and toothpics with some sillyputty as the adhesive? Thanks again! John P.S - MickeyFickey = MoFo?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MickeyThickey Posted December 17, 2003 Share Posted December 17, 2003 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EF Posted December 17, 2003 Share Posted December 17, 2003 What's that MoFo? decapitation? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul T Posted December 17, 2003 Share Posted December 17, 2003 Hey , is that a picture of Brady , you seem to have lost your boyish good looks. you really must start wearing a mask ,those fumes are F*$#@^% you up bad! :) Paul ( oh wow,am I wasted man) T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
I.Illes Posted December 17, 2003 Share Posted December 17, 2003 It´s definitely MoFo, who else is posting that much in such a short time? Just my two cents MickeyFickey Tenax Sniffer Group: Members Posts: 253 Member No.: 1571 Joined: 25-November 03 :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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