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I.Illes

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About I.Illes

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    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 03/19/1975

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    Essen/Germany
  1. Bump PM, please. Instant payment via Paypal; I also have some OOP 1/48 VF-103/VF-84 F-14 decal sheets (if that's more interesting) in exchange you can choose from, but I only give one of these away for the aforementioned JASDF sheet, I won't sell them otherwise: VF Decals: 48-84/103 The Jolly Rogers of VF-84 & VF-103 TwoBobs: 48-096 VF-103 Jolly Rogers Final Tomcat Cruise Yellowhammer Models: YHD48023 Tomcat Nose Art& Afghan War Hero (VF-14 & VF-84)
  2. Hello all, title really says it all. If anyone is willing to sell that sheet for a reasonable price (I am in Europe), please let me know. Thx for looking! István
  3. I.Illes

    Can anyone recommend a really good airbrush?

    Sounds like you either pushed the needle in too far and split the nozzle like I did once while in a hurry and a bit absent minded, or some paint residue built up, which prevents proper mixing of air and paint. My H&S Evo is one of the pre-series and still does its job like on the first day, but then again, I fieldstrip it after every color I spray and also use a tiny pipe cleaning brush etc. and treat it very well. I also used some older Badgers and still use Iwata HP-B and -C, but cleaning them is a royal pain. Don Wheeler's site is probably still the best source for troubleshooting: https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/ HTH István
  4. I.Illes

    Vehicle weathering, that faded rusty look.

    Fixed. Added new links in my original comment, don't click the quoted ones. Just noticed: if the pics are small, you have to click them for the bigger version. Try again :)
  5. I see your tiedown chain problem. The problem is that you attach the chain to a flat PE part, whereas the real thing allows the chain to be pulled through it. http://www.davisaircraftproducts.com/assets/images/chainGearLineDrawing.jpg

    https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/79/Defense.gov_News_Photo_050204-N-0499M-024.jpg

    Maybe this helps.

  6. I.Illes

    Vehicle weathering, that faded rusty look.

    What I developed and works for me to achieve most realistic effects is to simulate what happens: Layer fade away, paint cracks, moisture affects metal etc. So my approach on any kit these days is: - Tamiya primer - Gunze buffable steel (let cure, polish until it is like a mirror) - acrylic(!) zinc chromate yellow or any other primer color that would be used on the real thing - acrylic(!) dark redish brown when this is finished: - hairspray (don't let it cure for too long) and apply your final paintjob on top of that. a wet old stubby brush and a toothpick will help the water to get between the layers and losen the hairspray and you can gently wipe through the top layer. Once that is done, you can add a bit of isopropyl alcohol to the water or simply use Tamiya acryilics thinner (highly dilluted with water) and the following layer will give gently way to reveal layer after layer with the typical and realistic different colors of layer on the edge. -apply pigments (MiG with the pigment fixer is amazing!), oils and washes as desired. 1 2 3 4 I hope these help to illustrate what I tried to describe. In my experience, no effect that was added to the top layer can replicate the effect of real wear and tear. You have to gently work your way through the layers, light and shadow will take care of the rest. Dust and light surface rust however can be applied to the surface as the other comments suggest. Whenever I do such things, I ask myself: how are the areas affected in real life? In case someone wonders how the snow was made: water, white glue and baking soda. Glitters, behaves like snow when applied etc. P.S.: sorry about any dust; this was no proper set up or shoot; just a quick one to show what I talk about. EDIT: Faded can also mean that you have a paintjob that has variing flat/gloss/semiglossy areas. I achieve this by finishing the paintjob with a thing flatcoat, add some oils for stains and start to gently polish the edges and protruding lumps and bumps, leading edges or areas with a piece of paper. HTH István
  7. I.Illes

    Revell 1/48 ProModeller F-117 aftermarket

    My thoughts exactly. After my last Hasegawa F-14 that got almost everything the market had to offer, this is going to be a piece of cake, I hope.
  8. Hi all, just about to build my second one (first one was almost 20 years ago and turned out ok for my standards then. The CMK-kit is pretty pricy and I don't like much loadout on my builds, so I'd prefer to depict the bay shut. The Aires pit is 15€ here, which is pretty cheap and I am not willing to do days of scratchbuilding when the proper replacement is that cheap. The only question is: does it fit as it is designed for the Tamiya kit? Thanks for any input, István
  9. I.Illes

    1/32 Trumpeter F-14D Super Tomcat

    Coming along nicely! One day, I will get myself one of the big Cats, but the sheer amount of aftermarket that is required for fixing the current kits so they are accurate is insane. One should expect to get a correct kit for that money these days especially when one knows about today's technology and what is possible… My respect to all those who build and fix these regardless of the kits' shortcomings!
  10. Looks like the old Mono indeed. The Exhausts are not today's standard, the Landing Gear lacks crisp detail, but at least they are honest and din't remove the ejector pin marks in the detail shots ;)
  11. I.Illes

    1/48 Hasegawa F-14B Victory 110 of VF-103

    Far from it, but thank you :)
  12. I.Illes

    Academy MH-60S Review

    I was hoping for an HH-60H with the Nose FLIR, but this will have to do. I bet they release it the moment I finish this one… ;) Thanks for posting!
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