I.Illes
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About I.Illes
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Full Blown Model Geek
- Birthday 03/19/1975
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Still looking for the sheet.
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Hello Eric, now that would be good news after a really(!) long search! István
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Still noone? 😕
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*bump*
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*bump* noone? o_O
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Bump PM, please. Instant payment via Paypal; I also have some OOP 1/48 VF-103/VF-84 F-14 decal sheets (if that's more interesting) in exchange you can choose from, but I only give one of these away for the aforementioned JASDF sheet, I won't sell them otherwise: VF Decals: 48-84/103 The Jolly Rogers of VF-84 & VF-103 TwoBobs: 48-096 VF-103 Jolly Rogers Final Tomcat Cruise Yellowhammer Models: YHD48023 Tomcat Nose Art& Afghan War Hero (VF-14 & VF-84)
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Hello all, title really says it all. If anyone is willing to sell that sheet for a reasonable price (I am in Europe), please let me know. Thx for looking! István
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Can anyone recommend a really good airbrush?
I.Illes replied to caudleryan's topic in Tools 'n' Tips
Sounds like you either pushed the needle in too far and split the nozzle like I did once while in a hurry and a bit absent minded, or some paint residue built up, which prevents proper mixing of air and paint. My H&S Evo is one of the pre-series and still does its job like on the first day, but then again, I fieldstrip it after every color I spray and also use a tiny pipe cleaning brush etc. and treat it very well. I also used some older Badgers and still use Iwata HP-B and -C, but cleaning them is a royal pain. Don Wheeler's site is probably still the best source for troubleshoo -
Fixed. Added new links in my original comment, don't click the quoted ones. Just noticed: if the pics are small, you have to click them for the bigger version. Try again :)
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I see your tiedown chain problem. The problem is that you attach the chain to a flat PE part, whereas the real thing allows the chain to be pulled through it. http://www.davisaircraftproducts.com/assets/images/chainGearLineDrawing.jpg
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/79/Defense.gov_News_Photo_050204-N-0499M-024.jpg
Maybe this helps.
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What I developed and works for me to achieve most realistic effects is to simulate what happens: Layer fade away, paint cracks, moisture affects metal etc. So my approach on any kit these days is: - Tamiya primer - Gunze buffable steel (let cure, polish until it is like a mirror) - acrylic(!) zinc chromate yellow or any other primer color that would be used on the real thing - acrylic(!) dark redish brown when this is finished: - hairspray (don't let it cure for too long) and apply your final paintjob on top of that. a wet old stubby brush and a toothpick will help the water to
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My thoughts exactly. After my last Hasegawa F-14 that got almost everything the market had to offer, this is going to be a piece of cake, I hope.
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*bump* noone?
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Hi all, just about to build my second one (first one was almost 20 years ago and turned out ok for my standards then. The CMK-kit is pretty pricy and I don't like much loadout on my builds, so I'd prefer to depict the bay shut. The Aires pit is 15€ here, which is pretty cheap and I am not willing to do days of scratchbuilding when the proper replacement is that cheap. The only question is: does it fit as it is designed for the Tamiya kit? Thanks for any input, István
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Coming along nicely! One day, I will get myself one of the big Cats, but the sheer amount of aftermarket that is required for fixing the current kits so they are accurate is insane. One should expect to get a correct kit for that money these days especially when one knows about today's technology and what is possible… My respect to all those who build and fix these regardless of the kits' shortcomings!
