jrallman Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 Howdy! Time to get this party started! I am being overly ambitious with my planned builds for this GB knowing my build speed, so I am going to try the economy of scale by doing multiples of the same plane at the same time. First up will be the Polikarpov I-16s. I have a Type 10 which will be done in these markings and a Type 24 in these markings something a little different than the usual I-16. These Eduard kits look quite nice, good detail and so far good dry fit. I have assembled and painted the side walls for both the 10 and 24. I did them differently since there was a good bit of variation in interior paint in the I-16. Eduard gives the option for many pieces of using plastic and PE combined, or using all PE. I did one with PE, the other with the combination, just to be a little different. I have cut the cockpit door flaps off as well. I need to give the sidewalls a wash and dry brush then I can close the itty bitty fuses up. Thanks for looking, I hope to make these relatively quick builds. Type 10 Type 24 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Mikester Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 Looking good, Jay. What color are you using for the interior? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay Chladek Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 Pretty cool. Do you plan to add a light wash of Tamiya smoke tint to the sidewalls and then drybrush the ribbing? What you did looks great don't get me wrong. But considering how well used these open cockpit jobs were during the war, some light weathering might really make them stand out. Just a thought anyway. Regardless of what is done, I am sure these will look outstanding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted April 3, 2007 Author Share Posted April 3, 2007 Pretty cool. Do you plan to add a light wash of Tamiya smoke tint to the sidewalls and then drybrush the ribbing? What you did looks great don't get me wrong. But considering how well used these open cockpit jobs were during the war, some light weathering might really make them stand out. Just a thought anyway. Regardless of what is done, I am sure these will look outstanding. I need to give the sidewalls a wash and dry brush then I can close the itty bitty fuses up. in other words, yes, I plan to wash and drybrush the side walls. The seat and floor will get more weathering, but I am gonna use a dark brown oil wash and some drybrushing on the ribs and on the controls. Mike - I am using the WEM VVS enamels for all these planes. The 24 is done in ALG-5 gray primer (I wanted to use WUP gray primer since it was used extensively on early wood sections, but for some reason the VVS set they sent didn't come with that shade, but ALG-5 is close) while the 10 is done in blue-green primer (very similar to IMUP blue-gray primer). VVS planes were such a mishmash of interior colors, almost anything is possible Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay Chladek Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 Doh! Thats what I get for looking at the pretty pictures too intently and not reading closely. :) Anyway, how well do the Eduard I-16 kits assemble? Does anyone make an I-153 in 1/48? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Mikester Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 VVS planes were such a mishmash of interior colors, almost anything is possible I hope this doesn't wind up being more confusing than Luftwaffe stuff. I was hoping they were all one color, no such luck I guess. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted April 4, 2007 Author Share Posted April 4, 2007 Jay - Classic Airframes made an I-153 in 1/48, and I think Special Hobby may have done one as well, or maybe theirs was just an I-15. Mike - I think that most I-16s had the interior in AII blue to match the bottom of the plane, it just wasnt standardized really. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Apex1701 Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 Hi was thinking about doing the same type 10 you choose. How to apply the green color stopped me! I'm looking forward to see how you'll do it. It's always time to learn :-) Jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted April 4, 2007 Author Share Posted April 4, 2007 I think I am going to try to apply it with a brush, just as the original was. It will take a long time though because I am going to try to do it to scale, which means a really tiny brush and really short strokes! I decided that with the side doors opened, I needed some more detail in the cockpit so I have been adding stuff. I will post pics once done, but I have only done it to one pit so far. I added alot of the control cables from the various levers etc, some wire bundles, cut the sides off the cockpit floor, and added the light and grab holes on the coaming. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnsan Posted April 4, 2007 Share Posted April 4, 2007 I think I am going to try to apply it with a brush, just as the original was. It will take a long time though because I am going to try to do it to scale, which means a really tiny brush and really short strokes! Just a suggestion, but I would paint the green first. Then seal the paint well with an acrylic overcoat. Then add the off white color using a diluted oil paint applied with a small brush to a wet coat of thinner. This should give a varied depth of color coverage and the paint should blend as it dries. I'd try it on a paint hulk before trying it on the actual kit. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted April 4, 2007 Author Share Posted April 4, 2007 the thing about adding the gray after the green is that this wasn't a green plane with winter distemper over it, it was a gray plane with a crude and hastily brush applied green over it. i actually dont want the paint to blend much because it wasnt blended on the original. i may try your idea, but reverse the order. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted April 6, 2007 Author Share Posted April 6, 2007 I finished detailing the sidewalls. I still need to give them a wash and a dry brush, but I figure that I will paint the cockpit floor etc and then wash and dry brush it all at the same time. All the nasty blobs of glue etc are in places that will not be seen once everything is installed and closed up. I also finished the IPs, both are the same. After I wash and dry brush, I will flat coat then use some future in the dials for glass. Also, I have added triggers to the control stick as well as the trigger lines. I cut the sides off of the cockpit bottom but I need to get some styrene rod that is the right size to make the tubular frame supports that the floor is attached to. I have stuff that is too small and too big, but nothing just right. Well, thanks for looking, probably wont get a whole lot done this holiday weekend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jay Chladek Posted April 6, 2007 Share Posted April 6, 2007 That center instrument panel looks so good I could use it to do a check ride in! Are those instruments photoetch or decal (or photos)? They look WAY better then typical decals I have seen. Dang cool! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted April 6, 2007 Author Share Posted April 6, 2007 The IP is a PE sandwich. First layer has all the dials printed on it. Second layer has the holes cut in it and all the "writing" and bezels. Third layer is the top center portion of the IP, and of course, there are the few switches that are tiny little PE pieces. It is a very nice piece of work, and I like it better than the typical film behind PE approach. The kits do come with a styrene IP with the instrument detail and a decal, but the PE has more detail on it. Plus, for some reason, the Type 24 decal sheet has no IP decal on it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted April 18, 2007 Author Share Posted April 18, 2007 Finally got some time to work on these birds. Finished the cockpit floor area, painted both, and washed the cockpit walls and floor area with an oil wash and a smoke wash, then a subtle drybrush to make things pop just a wee bit. The IPs are done, with future for the glass faces and a subtle drybrush to bring out the bezels. Next, I close the fuses up and attach the cockpit floors and IPs. I have been working on the wings too, and oddly, the Type 24 has a PE bezel and clear film for the wheel well window, but the Type 10 just has a solid PE piece. I think I may try to cut the bezel off the solid piece in the Type 10 because the 24 comes with 2 films. I have also discovered that there are enough parts in these kits for me to make a Type 17 and a Type 28, and possibly a Type 18 and Type 27 and 29 too. May alter my markings plans, we shall see. Thanks for looking. Type 10 IP Type 24 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Mikester Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 Looks excellent, instrument panel is just sweet! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted April 18, 2007 Author Share Posted April 18, 2007 yeah, i like the IP alot too, but if it only had some Cyrillic writing on it instead of just white lines, not like you'll see any of it in that tiny cockpit opening, but it would still be cool. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Mikester Posted April 18, 2007 Share Posted April 18, 2007 but if it only had some Cyrillic writing on it instead of just white lines Yeah, I'm going to have to dock you a few points for that one... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted April 18, 2007 Author Share Posted April 18, 2007 DOH! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Walker Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 I've got to echo some of the other comments: nice cockpit work and that instrument panel is a work of art all on it's own. Amazing detail. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted April 28, 2007 Author Share Posted April 28, 2007 I installed both cockpits and IPs. It was a little bit fiddly since there are no locating points or references inside the fuse, but with some dry fitting it went ok. I installed the cowl gun breaches too. There is a little Mr. Surfacer work around the breach edges, but that is due to my hamfistedness, not the kit. The wing joints however are a bit off on the kits, though in different places on each. The Type 10 was an easy fit at the front on the cowl and along the top of the wing, but left a large gap on the bottom where it crosses the fuse. I had to add a slice of sheet styrene. The Type 24 fit closer along the bottom, but the cowl and wing tops were off a bit. With the right side joined correctly, the left side had to be sanded a bit to fit together properly. There is a seam along the wing tops and bottom fuse to be sanded on both, but they are well placed away from any detail so there is little danger of sanding off some nice surface detail. Type 10 Type 24 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VG 33 Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Hello It's quite a nice job you have made so far. The I-16 is a wonderful aircraft and I built last year a 1/32 Tupe 10 Azur kit in republican Spanish guise. Sincerely. Patrick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted April 29, 2007 Author Share Posted April 29, 2007 there are some pretty colorful I=16s from the spanish civil war. I may have to spring for the royal class boxing to get some of those nice decals! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Mikester Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 Looking good. Jay. Have to say not one of my favorite planes, they give me fits when I fly as the Germans in IL-2. :lol: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jrallman Posted April 30, 2007 Author Share Posted April 30, 2007 Looking good. Jay. Have to say not one of my favorite planes, they give me fits when I fly as the Germans in IL-2. :lol: ha ha, I sort of imagine them swarming around like mosquitoes at a barbecue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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