dnl42 Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Better late than never! :) I'm building Albatros D.III OEFFAG 253, 253.08, Flik 3J, piloted by Oblt. Stefan Stec in Summer 1918. The markings for this aircraft are only available from Roden in 1/72. But, since I want 1/48, I'm going to start with the Eduard 1/48 Albatros D.III OEFFAG 253 Weekend edition As for markings, I'll have to cobble them from the weekend sheet and at least one other sheet (the kit's markings have a Balkenkreuz on the rudder while I need an Iron Cross). I'll paint the red and white chessboard, Stec's personal emblem. Copyright © Jan Josef ŠAFAŘÍK I'll use EZ-Line and/or 0.006 carbon fiber for the rigging. Since I just had my eyes dilated, construction won't start until later today... :( Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spectre711 Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Late is always better than never here. Glad to have you aboard Dave. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 8, 2014 Author Share Posted September 8, 2014 Got the engine done. I may tone down the weathering... My camera appears to be dying, so this was from my phone. In some ways, it's better than the camera, other ways not so much... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mingwin Posted September 8, 2014 Share Posted September 8, 2014 A new build thread! Cool thanks for joining the group build! another one i'll have to follow with interest! engine looks great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 While I normally use Model Master enamels, I used Vallejo Wood as the base color for the wood parts. I'll try out Burnt and Raw Umber on a test piece. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mingwin Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 (edited) what the red and blue dots on part numbers are about? ...just curious... Edited September 13, 2014 by mingwin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 That was just identifying part's needin' paintin' and parts needin' ignorin' Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mingwin Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 fine, thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share Posted September 14, 2014 I've done my test piece, and Burnt Umber (top) is looking better than Raw Umber (bottom). I found that a good stiff oil brush was key. The soft brushes I normally use for enamels and acrylics didn't provide any texture at all. I was also surprised at how happy I am with the effect I get from wiggling the brush (on the right). May use that for the panels. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spectre711 Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Looks great, nice job! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 Got the wood-grain done. This is the first time I've done this and I'm Really Happy with the results! The prop is a lot better than this cell phone camera shows... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mingwin Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 indeed , your woodgrain looks great Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 I made good progress this weekend. When I started dry fitting the fueslage, I realized I forgot to wood-grain one former! :crying2:/> With the approx 1 week drying time for oil, I won't be able to button up the fuselage until next weekend. Anyway, here's where I am now: Some time last week I realized that I should have made the wood far more blond...oh well... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mingwin Posted September 22, 2014 Share Posted September 22, 2014 Nice part layout! appreciate the beauty of your parts before the assembly is nice... because it won't be easy to do so once the fuselage is close with everything in. i can appreciate your craftmanship well done David. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spectre711 Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Excellent work Dave! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 27, 2014 Author Share Posted September 27, 2014 (edited) Mingwin and Spectre711, thanks for the props! BTW, I tried the woodgraining because of this group build! Edited September 27, 2014 by David N Lombard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 27, 2014 Author Share Posted September 27, 2014 (edited) Ready to button the fuselage up. Dang!!! Looking at this photo, I see I lost a lever at the top of the instrument panel I need to do something better with the seat, looks sad right now... Edited September 27, 2014 by David N Lombard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mingwin Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 those Albatros plane have nicer/more-dressed cockpit than Nieuports... and yours look pretty good so far... (...and, what makes your seat look sad?) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 27, 2014 Author Share Posted September 27, 2014 Look up the definition of sad, this is the picture... Hm, photobucket has some serious file consistency problems... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mingwin Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 i see what you mean... in the photo showing the parts already done, it wasn't looking that "sad"... (angle and lighting wasn't the same) indeed it's not at the same level than the rest of the pit... and it will be the more easily seen part once fuselage closed... so what do you plan to do? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 27, 2014 Author Share Posted September 27, 2014 Since I've learned one new skill in the GB, I was going to try for two: forming a leather seat cushion from Milliput or maybe some of the polymer clay my wife has been experimenting with lately. Not sure what the seat back should be, perhaps I'll wood-grain that too, as you had done... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mingwin Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 (edited) i've try the milliput for the seat cushion, and my milliput (regular type) wasn't fine enough for that task (or maybe my milliput was too old, hence some granularity) ...maybe if you have a finer type of milliput it will be OK... for the cushion making, i've place a small amount of polyester putty in a small ziplock bag (slightly thicker than a baggies) then i use a big pen marker to "roll" over till desire cushion thickness is obtain...the bag helps the putty not to stick to the roll... i let it harden a little (a little) before i cut the shape (using the seat as template, use pointy object to make the line) ...so i have the gross shape of the cushion, that later will be sanded till shape fits the seat) once it dries a little more, but still malleable, i use an epidermic needle (non-bisel sharp type) to make the padding buttons of the cushion (the ziplock bag make the putty to follow softly, creating the desire effect) if you make the buttons, take in account in their placement that you'll trim/sand your seat to make it fit ... and for the backseat woodgrain, i'll say that it will worth the efforts, as the rest of your pit is outstanding! Edited September 27, 2014 by mingwin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WymanV Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 I used a folded up bit of tissue for cushions on my Jenny seats and painted them leather. Gives them just a bit of texture, which is nice. Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mingwin Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 (edited) I used a folded up bit of tissue for cushions on my Jenny seats and painted them leather. Gives them just a bit of texture, which is nice. Ken oh, interesting... and way less hassle ...would have love to see those. Edited September 28, 2014 by mingwin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 Ken, Thanks for the suggestion. I've seen tissue soaked in white glue used on ship models to simulate the canvas cover of a lifeboat. I'll try putty as mingwin suggested as well as tissue. I also have a stash of wine bottle foil and a thicker aluminum foil used to seal coffee cans. One of those should work for me... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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