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Gunny

Techniques for recreating gold tinted canopies?

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Hello!

 

Please share your techniques for recreating the gold tinted canopy look like on the EA-6B for example. Thanks!

 

Semper Fi,

Masterguns

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I actually started a thread showing an experiment I tried using nail polish, of all things, to recreate this look.  I feel it was very successful, but you can judge for yourself...

 

 

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Out’freakin’standing! That looks very right on for a 48 scale effect on a Kinetic Prowler I’m going for. I wonder if can I get that tint here in town. We have one of those famous chain makeup stores my wife likes to go to. I just can’t recall the name. Thanks for sharing that technique, brah! I will be trying it soon.

 

Semper Fi,

Masterguns

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Gunze make a clear gold, color GX111.  I purchased a bottle of the stuff but have not tried it yet.  Out of the bottle it looks a little opaque but I think thinning or mixing with clear it can be made more translucent.  I plan to experiment with it on clear plastic spoons, just haven't got around to it. 

 

http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=121

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Alternatively, you can get powdered pearl pigments from any decent arts supply store and mix that with the clear of your choice. The brand I was able to find that worked best was called Pearl Ex. The advantage being that you can control the amount of pearl powder you use without needing to over-thin. It also allows you to use a clear/solvent that will minimize the risk of crazing the clear plastic.

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Do you have to use acrylics? I assume you one would do to ease of clean up if there was a booboo on the canopy. However, if you have the mixture you like & have tested on junk canopy could you use enamels? Reason asking is because I have many more enamels than acrylics in these metallic colors that I can thin like the nail paint which is essentially similar to what Fightng-84 used, correct? Feed me the knowledge, dudes. 

 

Semper Fi,

Masterguns

Edited by Gunny

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49 minutes ago, GunsightOne said:

Alternatively, you can get powdered pearl pigments from any decent arts supply store and mix that with the clear of your choice. The brand I was able to find that worked best was called Pearl Ex. The advantage being that you can control the amount of pearl powder you use without needing to over-thin. It also allows you to use a clear/solvent that will minimize the risk of crazing the clear plastic.

 

I’m not familiar with this stuff. I would be looking at for it at Honby Lobby tomorrow. Did you use acrylic or enamel based clear. Which color powder? Thanks.

 

Semper Fi,

 Masterguns 

Edited by Gunny

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1 minute ago, Gunny said:

 

Dod you use acrylic or enamel based clear. Which color powder? Thanks.

 

Semper Fi,

 Masterguns 

My medium of choice was Future floor wax. Gold powder cut with a hint of red was my preference, but the powder must be used VERY sparingly. Sometimes I will come back with a future + drop of smoke & yellow clear-coat as a backing  but nothing beats good, clear reference pics of the actual subject.

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4 minutes ago, GunsightOne said:

My medium of choice was Future floor wax. Gold powder cut with a hint of red was my preference, but the powder must be used VERY sparingly. Sometimes I will come back with a future + drop of smoke & yellow clear-coat as a backing  but nothing beats good, clear reference pics of the actual subject.

 

Thank you. I keep forgetting about using Future. I have what seems like a pallet of that stuff that i do use a lot but will realistically ever use all. I’ll prolly have leave to my children in my will. Thanks again. If I go this route I’ll prolly ask you yo walk me through baby steps. 

 

Semper Fi,

Masterguns

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I haven't tried this technique yet but it looks promising...

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Reddog-03 said:

I haven't tried this technique yet but it looks promising...

 

 

 

That's a similar process to what I posted above, but there are some significant differences that should be pointed-out. For one, I recommend applying the gold tint to the inside, simply because this won't affect the shine of the canopy nearly as much. Also, when you later have to mask your canopy to paint the frame, the slightest thing can marr the clear, like the mask adhesive--not good! Painting from the inside eliminates that risk.

 

Also, regardless of what's said in the video, I do NOT recommend thinning Tamiya clears with rubbing alcohol. In my experience, the frosted effect does affect the overall clarity, even if you add a final clear-coat. If you want the best effect, it's better just to spring for the proper thinner than save a couple bucks only to get a mediocre result. Finally, the more coats you add, the greater the risk that those coats will  affect the transparency of your canopy. This is why I recommend Future: it doesn't need to be thinned, is self-leveling and the whole process can be done in 2 light coats.

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I've used future and yellow food coloring:

 

 

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Well gents, I picked up a bottle of Liquidex acrylic translucent iridescent gold from Michaels & a Masters Touch acrylic 36 count .7fl oz tubes in a plethora of hues-all of which I opine I should be able to use in some form with future builds as well-from hobby lobby. If you have experience with these brands, in any capicity, good or bad, please share. Thank you.

 

Semper Fi,

Masterguns

Edited by Gunny

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