dnl42 Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 (edited) I'll be building a 1/48 LCM-3 as PA13-2 in D-Day markings. I also have Eduard's PE set. The decals enable alternate markings. I had originally planned on putting an M4 in it as shown on the box art, but I haven't found any evidence of that combination in Overlord. Looks like tanks waded in from LCTs or drove ashore from LSTs. I do have a picture of LCM PA13-22 and a Jeep, so I'll add Hasegawa's 1/48 Jeep if I have the time. Edited June 14, 2019 by dnl42 PA13-22 was an LCVP Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ichitoe Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 Now, this is something different! Great choice for GB! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Thanks! This should be a fun build. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Share Posted January 6, 2019 Starting in on it. Given the nature of the subject, primary documentation is scant. First issue could be in the skegs and rudders. I noticed the leading edge of the kit part is flat and scales out to 4.3 inches wide. Here's the relevant detail from a picture of an LCM aboard a tank hauler heading for the Rhine. This is more like what I expected. The partially balanced rudder is a flat plate welded to the rudder post. There are braces on either side that would protect the rudder during beaching operations. Also note the flat plate at the bottom of the skeg. Finally, I *think* I also see some fairing of the skeg before the props. In all fairness to HB, these boats were built by Higgins in NOLA and Boston NSY--perhaps the kit and photo are both correct. I'll keep looking before I attach the rudder assembly... Time to head topside... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ichitoe Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Looks like a little scratch building is in order for the rudder support structure based on the pic. Plus the rudder could be reshaped to match the photo if you wanted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 I do intend to rebuild the skeg and rudders. I've been working topside on the conning station. Attached the various PE bits to the bulkheads; two important improvements were the exterior handle and all of the door's interior (shown). The IP was also a huge improvement. I used a Molotow Liquid Chrome pen on the back of the Eduard film; it really makes the gauges pop. BTW, this pen is outstanding for oleo struts, too!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted January 13, 2019 Author Share Posted January 13, 2019 Built new skegs and rudders to better match that photo above. The skegs are a built-up tee section of 0.015x0.065 Evergreen strip. The rudder is 0.02 sheet stock glued to a 0.62 rod; I used a scrap of 0.2 sheet to center the rudder parts onto the rod. Here's a view similar to the photo (well, except the coffee cup). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Hi, Interesting build and great work on the scratchbuilt parts. Thanks for mentioning the Molotow pen. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted January 13, 2019 Author Share Posted January 13, 2019 Thanks! Is that your pen? It's wonderful! Picked it up at the LHS figuring I would try it out--I was quite impressed on the very 1st use! I've put silver paint on the back of Eduard IP film before, but it was never this good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 9 minutes ago, dnl42 said: Is that your pen? Hi, No, I did not design the Molotow pen. On the contrary, I was not aware of its existence and I was glad you mentioned it because I could use something like that on oleo struts. Now I know what to look for. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 Here's a photo of my subject. Based on color photographs of LCMs in England, I'm thinking the hull is Navy Blue. Looks like the mast is white. Perhaps the gun mounts are Light Gray? Not sure about the lower hull... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nspreitler Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 I have the same kit, I really like what you are doing with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 Thanks! Getting the inner hull strengthening ribs on took a surprising amount of dry-fitting to fit. I've got some work to get ramp lifting winch and cables correct. I can see that HB didn't quite get that right, but more research is needed to figure out how it should work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted January 16, 2019 Author Share Posted January 16, 2019 From the USN's "Skill in the Surf, A Landing Boat Manual" Quote Equalizing sheave and cable guard--the sheave, an inner wheel of a block or pulley, is a part of the tackle with which the ramp is lowered. It is located in the cable guard, a protective framework covering the ramp cable running forward from the ramp winch. It's clear HB didn't understand this at all. They provide a simple c-channel-like part that is just attached to the port side of the hull with no apparent function. I built up a channel from 2 Evergreen C channels laid on their side with a strip between then to form the back of the channel. Judging from my primary reference picture, the channel is closed up front to prevent the equalizing sheave from running out at the bow, and open at the rear. And here's the equalizing sheave. That's my testimony and I'm sticking to it... The sheave is built from discs cut from 0.01 strip using the #4 (0.089) and #1 (0.039) Waldron punches. The sheave body is 0.6x0.8 strip a #61 (0.039) ho;e and 0.3 strip. Next are the bow sheaves, I'm not sure if the kit parts align properly now that I have a reasonable facsimile of the equalizing sheave and cable guard. I also need to build the sheaves and fairleads that run the ramp cable from port to starboard through the front of the engine compartment. I already cut away a gizit on the starboard deck where HB incorrectly placed a winch drum. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted January 17, 2019 Author Share Posted January 17, 2019 Indeed, the port HB ramp sheaves are incorrect. As provided, the port ramp cable would route from the end of the cable guard to the upper cable I need one more sheave to route the port ramp cable from cable guard to the upper ramp sheave. The kit's ramp sheave assembly will need some surgery. Looking at my reference, the HB part doesn't look so bad, well, aside from the missing sheave. Hm, I need to add a fairlead at the bow, too... If you look carefully, you can see the ramp lock release line above the cable guard. It routes all the way back to the engine compartment--HB missed that, too... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nspreitler Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 Very nice, I'm paying close attention to this since I have one of these to build Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Share Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) Thanks! Documentation is truly scarce. Right now I've got WWII US Landing Craft in action and Skill in the Surf mentioned above. I also have Allied Landing Craft of World War Two coming, should be in next week. But, my "golden doc" is that image above. While there is no excuse for contradicting it, interpreting it has been a challenge. Some videos gave me the first hint on the ramp release mechanism when they showed movement in the cable guard when the ramp was lowered. The Skill in the Surf book's description helped me understand what I was looking at in the picture, including the existence of that ramp release line. Edited January 20, 2019 by dnl42 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted January 30, 2019 Author Share Posted January 30, 2019 Ooh ooh! I just received some really nice woven bumpers from Thachweave Products! I'm thinking I'll dye them a very weak brown with either Rit Dye or Ranger alcohol ink. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted January 30, 2019 Author Share Posted January 30, 2019 I think I've identified the cable runs. Yellow is the ramp lock release cable Green runs from the winch to the equalizing sheave. Red runs from the port ramp attachment through sheaves into the front of the cable guard, aft through the cable guard, around the equalizing sheave, forward through the cable guard, around sheaves at the front of the cable guard, below the cable guard to a sheave at the forward end of the engine compartment. That sheave routes the cable through the engine compartment to a similar starboard-side sheave and then forward to sheaves at the bow, and finally to the starboard ramp attachment. The equalizing sheave ensures that equal tension is maintained on both sides of the ramp. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 Making sheaves. The leftmost sheave is the kit's example, at 0.16 diam and 0.065 thick for a full-scale size of 7.68 diam by 3.12 thick. As it appears that HB just guessed at what was going on at the bow, I'm considering that size as notional. . I made some sample sheaves from 0.01 and 0.02 sheet, and 0.13 tubing. The Waldron 0.16 punch is about the same diameter as the kit sheave, while the 0.12 punch looks good for the inner diameter of the sheave. I was able to get a good square cut on the tubing with a UMM™ Tubular - Micro Mitre Box. I made 3 sheaves. The 1st sheave I made, next to the kit's example, used 0.02 sheet for the outer and inner disks, with a total thickness of 0.06. The next sheave to the right has a 0.035 slice of the 0.13 tubing between 0.01 thick disks, with a total thickness of 0.055. The right-most used 0.01 sheet for the outer and inner disks, with a total thickness of 0.03. I prefer the middle sheave, with the tubing slice, putting the full-scale size at 7.68 diam by 2.64 thick. I need 7 sheaves total, 3 at the port bow, 2 at the starboard bow, and 2 to guide the ramp cable athwartship at the forward end of the engine compartment. An extra never hurts... HB seemed to think there were 2 ramp winches, one on each side. The LCM has a single ramp winch driven by the port engine. HB also appeared to get several aspects of the ramp winch housing incorrect.It looks taller and thinner to me and the cable exits the winch housing from the top of the drum. Now I need to work on the port sheave mounting to add that 3rd sheave. HB's part isn't too bad, but it does need some fixing beyond just adding the new sheave. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stefan buysse Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Hi, That's some pretty impressive research and work right there. I had never given much thought to how these ramps worked. Cheers, Stefan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 Thanks! I suppose if HB had something plausible, I may have just run with it. But, they just had a strange channel stuck on the port side that didn't make any mechanical sense. So I started looking for documentation and am now fixated on having a plausible mechanism that's consistent with the data I've collected, especially that photo of my specific vessel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nspreitler Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 This is great, true craftsmanship. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted February 8, 2019 Author Share Posted February 8, 2019 I've got the ramp sheaves done. Here are the parts And the assembled sheaves. I still need to add some small details. As you can see, the HB part wasn't that bad for the port side, which only has 2 sheaves. The starboard side has the additional sheave. Also did some work back aft. That Molotow Liquid Chrome did a really nice job on the instruments. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
swbailey Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 The details make the difference. Very impressive work! I'm enjoying watching this come together, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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