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Gday everyone, first build post from me in a LOOOOOONG time. Let's see if I can finish this one!

 

Roden's T-28 came up cheap on internet auction site, and was promptly added to the stash. A current mood mojo of 1/48 trainers saw the trojan making it's way promptly to the bench. 

 

The kit is.... rough. Very nice detailing, albeit buried under plenty of flash. HEAVY scribed panel lines, ordinary fit and the decals. Ugh the decals. More on them later. 

 

I'm using photo bucket for pic transfer and I'm not sure how the quality of the pics will be on these pages. Comments on that and the model are welcomed.

 

Jumping straight in, the cockpit was fine. Masking tape seatbelts and plastic buckles were hastily thrown together, otherwise all OOTB.Trial fit of the windscreen and nose bowl. Filler applied to wing joints. 

20190813_204205.jpg

 

Canopies on, and seams smoothed. Fit here wasn't terrible. Just some simple sanding of mating surfaces to get everything lined up and it looked pretty good. Canopies closed on this build, i want to keep this one simple. 

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First proper fun, the flight controls. Ailerons and flaps are separate parts, allowing them to be posed as the builder likes. The instructions advise on different parts needed to assemble the flaps in the up position but fail to mention that a brief lesson in 5th dimensional physics will be needed to get the parts to actually fit correctly. Break out the coarse carborundum paper!

 

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And of course the parts didnt match up in plan form either. Inboard edge of ailerons shimmed to fit. 

20190820_204748.jpg

 

More soon, thanks for reading!

 

Denzil

Edited by DDC
Because derp.
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I filled in the fuselage with lead tyre weights to prevent from sitting on its tail, but to be on the safe side, I also put some nice fat penny washers behind the engine, on the firewall. This meant removal of the intake piping on the back of the engine, but it wont be seen on the finished model, so no dramas.20190903_161922.jpg

 

The nose bowl fit was rather interesting. Out with the coarse sandpaper and plastic sheet.

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Primer time

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Black masked off, MRP White, then masked ready for the colour.

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A home made blend of Tamiya Red and Gunze Flourescent Orange looks pretty good in person, but show up extremely red in pictures!

20190903_161646.jpg

 

And masks off! I decided to paint the fin red, and then come back, mask the straight line and touch up the white. 

20190903_161626.jpg

 

Denzil

 

Edited by DDC
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Decals applied. Throw out the kit decals.and buy some quality aftermarket ones. These ones are as brittle as I've ever seen, shattering upon meeting my delicate gaze, didnt conform and wouldnt sink into panel lines, no matter how much decal set was used. And also they were translucent 😡😡.

 

Also, whilst the stencils were just about legible, I'm pretty sure the instructions calls for most of them to be applied to incorrect locations. Oh well. This ones a shelf sitter, not a competition winner. 

20190903_164358.jpg

 

With all the nose weight in the thing, the scale thickness plastic nose wheel leg is going to have a hard time not bending under the load. Replacement gear legs are on their way 😄

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks mate! Shes coming together ok for a rough build. 

 

So I had some more good,good times with this build. Whilst touching up some white paint, despite being sealed under a few coats of gloss, some de-tacked, already low-tack masking tape managed to peel the decals clean off the build. 

 

Insert rude words. 

 

This little kit is fighting, but I can't have a selection of trainers WITHOUT a T28, so the build continues. Xtradecals T28 set is ordered and on its way. 

 

In the mean time, the GFactor brass landing gear turned up. THESE are beautiful and STRONG. To anyone who has this kit in the stash, these are are a must. I am aware of the SAC parts for this kit, but whilst my experience with them in the past has been adequate, I dont  trust that even their gear is up to the task providing a strong enough nose gear leg, considering all the weight required to keep it from being a tail sitter.

 

The aftermath of unintentional decal removal, plus the gear, cleaned up and sprayed with Tamiya rattle-can white primer.

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And now the moment of truth: will it sit on its gear un-assisted??

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Wahoo!!!

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For the time being, this is going to sit in the naughty corner to decide whether it wants to spend its life in the cabinet, or trash can. More progress when the new decals arrive!

 

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  • 10 months later...

OK!

A move from the midwest to the Pacific North West and a new job, and the bench is finally set up for action :D

 

I used masking tape to peel off the decals, and removed the landing gear because I wasn't happy with how it sat.

 

First up, mask and paint the wing walks to suit the aftermarket decals. 

 

 

20200720_214639

 

 

20200720_221703
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Looking good DDC.   I have this one in the trainer build pile myself.  I've noted your recommendations for gear replacement and I already have decals set aside as replacements.   Can't wait to see this one drug across the finish line.

Edited by Drifterdon
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On 7/22/2020 at 3:47 PM, Drifterdon said:

Looking good DDC.   I have this one in the trainer build pile myself.  I've noted your recommendations for gear replacement and I already have decals set aside as replacements.   Can't wait to see this one drug across the finish line.

Thanks mate! 

She takes a bit of effort, but is a better starting point than the old Monogram kit!

 

Brass gear and aftermarket decals are an absolute necessity, unfortunately.

 

I appreciate your encouragement, big motivation to see her finished and in the cabinet!

 

Denzil

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
3 hours ago, YF65_CH53E said:

can you walk an armature as myself through the black weathering you just did?  oils? 

Thanks mate, Glad to help, its dead simple!

 

First step is a nice glosscoat so seal everything in place. I think i used MRP lacquer for this one. Pledge/future whatever it's called is also robust enough for this layer. 

 

Once that's dry, i use water colours. They are easy to use, won't hurt the underlying surface and easy to cleanup! I bought a cheap 24 pack from hobby lobby, which is overkill because I primarily use black and burnt umber mixed to a satisfactory shade. Thin it out with a lot of water, and add a drop of dish soap to break the surface tension and flow more easily over your model. 

 

I paint on wherever I think the real aircraft will have reasons to be accentuated. Deep gaps between parts, fluid leaks etc. 

 

I put it aside to dry for a few hours (drying time will depend on how thick you lay it on), then using soft paper towel, I wipe the off the excess, trying to do it in direction of airflow when possible. Just keep wiping off until you've got the desired result. If its too.messy, keep wiping until it's satisfactory. Wiped too much off? Just paint some more on and repeat. 

 

I have since learned that using single ply toilet paper is better than 2 or 3 ply, and the multi-ply sheets have a fine adhesive layer to keep them from falling apart.

 

Dont be afraid to experiment with colours, you can always wash it off if youre not happy with the results!

Id i were doing this one again, id probably use a lighter colour wash.

 

After you're happy with your finish, let it dry, and then coat with another clear coat. I have not had issue covering these cheap watercolours with MRP lacquer, but I cant guarantee compatibility with everything. If in doubt, test it on somewhere that won't be seen or a test mule.

 

Its an easy way to make kits look slightly more "lived-in".  Hope you have a go with it soon!

 

Denzil.

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Denzel,

Thank you so much. Straight forward advice and simple technique. I will try it on my current build. I am not familiar with MRP lacquer?  I use model master gloss coat and dull coat. I've seen wat based paints in those from other forum mates. 

 

Thanks a bunch. Cheers!

Gunny Dan

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14 hours ago, YF65_CH53E said:

Denzel,

Thank you so much. Straight forward advice and simple technique. I will try it on my current build. I am not familiar with MRP lacquer?  I use model master gloss coat and dull coat. I've seen wat based paints in those from other forum mates. 

 

Thanks a bunch. Cheers!

Gunny Dan

 

You're welcome mate!

Simple water colours over the top of completely dry enamels SHOULD be ok, but as always, if in doubt, test it on something else first!

 

I spent a lifetime using MM and humbrol enamels, but over the last decade their formulas have gotten awful. They don't brush well, and the pigment doesn't cover. I heard about MRP lacquers somewhere and wanted to give them a try. They come pre-thinned for airbrush use only, so you always get a consistent result out of your gun. They are like night and day compared to the current crop of enamels. Fast drying, excellent coverage and density, and very tough. Yes it means switching to lacquer thinner instead of mineral turps, but otherwise they are very user friendly. 

 

Sprue Brothers sell them here in the USA, theyre well worth a try!

 

Denzil

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Denzil,

 

I will certainly give them a go.  I have been looking for a replacement paint system since I got back into the hobby after a 20+ year hiatus.  Very good info to know.  MM, Tamiya all over the place these days.  With Vallejo, AK, Revell Germany releasing their own paints....ARGHHHHH, so good to get some inside gouge!!

 

r/Gunny

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You did a fine job to get that one done.  Roden does some very under represented kits for which they should be applauded but they tend to be a bit rough.  I had similar experience with their Birddog kit.  

Geoff M 

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On 12/29/2020 at 12:21 PM, YF65_CH53E said:

Denzil,

 

I will certainly give them a go.  I have been looking for a replacement paint system since I got back into the hobby after a 20+ year hiatus.  Very good info to know.  MM, Tamiya all over the place these days.  With Vallejo, AK, Revell Germany releasing their own paints....ARGHHHHH, so good to get some inside gouge!!

 

r/Gunny

I feel that pain! There are SO MANY options to choose from, we are spoiled for choice! I'm very happy with how the MRP sprays, and after using them on a few builds now, im getting used to how they act and react to being applied. 

 

I dont think there's a particularly wrong choice amongst the big name paint brands, and the outcome of your experience is determined predominantly by how much effort you're willing to invest in learning how your chosen brand like to be applied. 

 

Welcome back to the hobby, I'm looking forward to seeing your progress 😄

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On 12/29/2020 at 1:13 PM, Geoff M said:

You did a fine job to get that one done.  Roden does some very under represented kits for which they should be applauded but they tend to be a bit rough.  I had similar experience with their Birddog kit.  

Geoff M 

Thankyou mate! Yes roden does some really neat stuff, so while I moan about having to apply basic modelling skills, im still very happy that their kits are available. Its a first world problem for sure 😂

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