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REVELL/PRO MODELER F-86D IN 1/48


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Hello all,

 

While waiting for the paints to arrive so I can wrap the F-86 MK 6 project up, it is time to think of my next one. I have always wanted to build the D and now is my chance. There are many after market foreign decals options for this bird. The good thing is that I do not have to do modifications like I have to like on the MK6. Dai 

 

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Edited by dai phan
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2 hours ago, Whiskey said:

Will definitely be taking a seat, grabbing some popcorn, and keeping my notepad handy as I have plans to do the same later this year.

These kits were the highlights of the Monogram era before it folded. Such tragic for such an outstanding and iconic company. Dai 

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Other than some after market resin cockpits, there are nothing as far as detail sets offered. The kit already has slats and detailed rocket tray.  There are some areas that could use resin bays. However there are ample beautiful decal sheets available. It appears this project should be completed quickly. Dai 

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19 hours ago, Whiskey said:

Will definitely be taking a seat, grabbing some popcorn, and keeping my notepad handy as I have plans to do the same later this year.

Yes, what he said!!
I too have this kit up in the loft. And would love to do a ADC international orange marked Tennessee ANG F-86D. Alas, no markings so I might have to get some custom printed.  

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Howdy all,

 

With the F-86 project coming to a close, I will start on this project this weekend. The Revell and Promodeler kits differ in the early or later tail type. I will have to look into the decal sheet to determine the correct variant. Dai 
 

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Edited by dai phan
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Howdy modelers,

 

Will start on this project tomorrow. Since the kit has excellent fit and no resin parts to deal with or wait to be shipped from overseas, it should move along quickly. Dai 

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Posted (edited)

Hello all,

 

The version I choose will be the late type (Revell) as this is the most preferred variant by many modelers as well. I just need to make sure the decals are appropriate for the type. Dai 

 

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Posted (edited)

Greetings Friday everyone,

 

Started the project today using Eduard' Space 1 set. Interesting discovery... Eduard's provides the correct dimensions for the vertical side panels (PE parts 25/26). However when the cockpit tube is inserted into the fuse, these stand at a weird angle. These side panels should be perpendicular to the cockpit floor rather at a 30 degree stance. The reason is because the instrument panel should be tilted forward but on the kit, it is perpendicular to the cockpit tube. As such that causes the side panels to be off and cannot be used. Luckily I have a spare kit so the kit's side panels can be used. The other thing is Eduard's instruction calls for parts 1,2 to be placed at the edge of the plastic. You need to move back 1/2 mm to allow the IP to be cemented onto the tub. Dai 

 

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Posted (edited)

Greetings,

 

The fuse is assembled. The Revell kit sports the later version with shorter instrument panel and correct vertical tail. The Eduard's instruction calls for shortening the front of the IP and install the PE part. Dai 

 

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Posted (edited)

Hello all,

 

The plane is ready to be sanded. If you are building the Revell version, please note that parts 28/29 are reversed in their locations according to the illustration. The vortex generators are on the bottom. I see some errors in the Net due to the wrong instruction. The drag chute (part #18) are not shown any where in the manual. Make sure the rectangular horizontal piece is on the bottom. Dai

 

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Posted (edited)

Hi all,

 

If you plan to do the F-86D, buy the Revell version instead. The Promodeler model is based on early, research aircraft with oversized rudder trim that is not accurate for planes in service.  Also the IP is not accurate for in-service planes either. You can use the Promodeler version if you plan to use the kit's decals. Dai 

 

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5 hours ago, Crutch said:

I hear that the black undercoat needs to be glossy and dry before applying AlClad II...

I read that you must prime or the paint will craze the plastic. I have to paint some bare spots that you see on the model. Glossy black coat if you only want chromic shine. I will do some test before I do on the model. Dai 

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Hello all,

 

OK, I am going to try a different paint. When I bought the Luftwaffe 1960 paint sets for my Sabre, it came with 2 bottles of White Aluminum. I have read AK Extreme Metal is much better than Alclad II so I did a test. I was very pleased with the result. It sprays well, dries fast, can be sanded to feathered edge and is resistant to masking tape. It can be sprayed directly over bare unprimed plastic without crazing it unlike Alcald II. So I am going to use this paint. However I will do some test on the Alclad II to see how it fares. I am not into high shine chromic finish because in real life it does not exist. Dai 

 

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Greetings,

 

I painted white aluminum and I thought the color is too bright and white. The photos appear much darker than in real life. I have ordred a numbers of AK Extreme Metal paints and plan to use the aluminum for a darker shade. I do not know if the paint is not fully cured but enamel thinner does makes the paint slighty tacky that will attract finger prints. Since the model sports rather heavy panel lines, another coat or 2 of paint will not hide any details. Dai 

 

PS: AK users, please advise me what paint from AK Extreme Metal is best for NMF fiinish please. Maybe I did not use other AK colors to judge but a single sample I used I did not see any improvements over Mr Color Super Metallics 2 range. 

 

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