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specks in my top coat


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another one for you guys...

after spraying a different model with tamy gloss white, i thouroughly cleaned my AB and turned to my GB F14 to finish its dull coat...

lo and behold... white specks from the AB...

***?!?!?!

i cleaned and cleaned and cleaned with laquer thinner and windex and 91%... and tried again...

STILL white specks...

i was a neesy-hair away from stomping both the kitty AND the AB into a million pieces...

i used the color cup for the AB when i shot the white... and for the dull coat...

but i ihave been reluctant to touch it again... in fact i havent touched styrene in over a month, as i am terrified to mess it (the kitty) up again...

anyone have any suggestions?

thanks again...

TB

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So are you saying you sprayed a clear (flat) coat & got white specs? That's happened to me when i have not thinned/mixed the clear coat enough and I got sort of tiny salt-like spots on the finish - it's due to improper mixing of the flat coat.

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The other thing I can recommend (I´m not sure thoug if you already did that), is to fieldstrip the airbrush every time and properly clean it. Some people remove the needle backwards and this causes paintresidue to flow into the airchannel, which is VERY hard to clean. This is why I remove the nozzle and pull the needle througgh the front-end and re-insert it from the rear when it´s clean again. This will prevent any thinned paint to flow back into the airbrushbody.

István

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Did you spray - by mistake - Tamiya Flat out of the bottle? If so you get a hazed white layer. Tamiya flat has to be mixed with a gloss paint (it can be glossy clear) to make it "flat".

Pierre

That sounds bad, man! :monkeydance: If so, why do they produce such a stuff that can ruin a paintjob? Lucky me never tried it but I went straight for the Testors Dullcoat from the very start and was happy with it ever since.

Hope you can save your kit!

István

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Did you spray - by mistake - Tamiya Flat out of the bottle? If so you get a hazed white layer. Tamiya flat has to be mixed with a gloss paint (it can be glossy clear) to make it "flat".

Pierre

That sounds bad, man! :monkeydance: If so, why do they produce such a stuff that can ruin a paintjob? Lucky me never tried it but I went straight for the Testors Dullcoat from the very start and was happy with it ever since.

Hope you can save your kit!

István

Well, I made that mistake a long time ago... Tamiya flat is designed to "flatten" any gloss acylic paint. This sounds weird, since Tamiya produces excellent flat paints out of the bottle.

But I found out you can mix it with Future, to obtain various grades of "flat" Future: from semi-gloss (or satin) (10-15% Tamiya Flat, 85.90% Future) to full-flat layer (25/75). Sometimes this makes sense.

:woot.gif:

Pierre

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The other thing I can recommend (I´m not sure thoug if you already did that), is to fieldstrip the airbrush every time and properly clean it. Some people remove the needle backwards and this causes paintresidue to flow into the airchannel, which is VERY hard to clean. This is why I remove the nozzle and pull the needle througgh the front-end and re-insert it from the rear when it´s clean again. This will prevent any thinned paint to flow back into the airbrushbody.

István

thanks guys... istvan... i'll try that next time...

it was an enamel flat white, and yes i do clean it after each color...

i think it may be the WAY that i cleaned it... needle out the aft vs out the fore end...

thanks again!

PS... it was BOYD 'header white' that i am using to build a 67 chevelle...

thought id try a car before jumping back to planes...

does it matter if its a paasche VL? for the cleaning method mentioned above??

Edited by TexasBlues
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As fast as you can Go to the nearest HARBOR FREIGHT and get thier small ultrasonic cleaner. you will not regret it!!! I use mine with a twist! i put paint bottles in it and give them a qiuck run through before I shake them to mix the paint up inside, it helps loosen up the settled pigment on the bottom. :cheers:

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