kuman Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 (edited) ;) hi all.. this is my first time posting here.. so please be gentle.. :) and i'm not sure if this is the best place to ask these questions... i'm still a beginner in this scale modelling scene although i've built a couple of them already... but most of them are from the unpopular and unaccurate model maker.. Zhengdefu & Kitech... but its just perfect for a beginner like me... :) anyway... on with the question.. Question 1 i just would like to ask... what's the different between these putty and masking tape? and which is better to use? or do they have different usage for different situation? can you guys recommend the best Tamiya masking tape? i try to be cheap before and use the normal paper masking tape... the result.. a total headache and frustation... any replacement for the Tamiya Masking tape.? Putty: - Tamiya Putty Basic Type - Tamiya Epoxy Putty Quick - Tamiya Epoxy Putty Smooth refer pics below.. Question 2 so far i only doing an inflight model... so i just wondering... how to make a stand for those model? using a piece of wire? any recommendation? thank you in advance for all the help and is greatly appreciated.. kuman Edited September 8, 2005 by kuman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wffwii Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 Kuman, As far as masking tape goes, I still use quite a bit of tamiya tape, especially for canopies and stuff. For covering areas already painted though, I use "Scotch Blue Painter's Tape for delicate surfaces. It's cheaper and gives nice sharp edges. I wouldn't give up the Tamiya Putty. I haven't found anything I like better, personally. And one tube seems to last quite a while. I also use gap-filling super glue for smaller gaps and cracks. Hope this helps. You're probably likely to get 10 different opinions on this subject. ;) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithery Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 I agree 100% with what wffwii has said above. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Night Hawk Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 *subscribed to thread* Quote Link to post Share on other sites
My_name_1s_MUD Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 It recommend for a stand to invest a couple bucks into some clear acrylic rod from USPLASTICS.com. You can get alot from a little. Then get a large coffee can and a heat gun. Get some heavy gloves to protect your hands. Then heat the plastic evenly and as the rod becomes bendable... push it into the grooves in the coffee can. This will make a nice curved clear rod. Drill a hold in a wooden base and insert the clear acrylic rod. Drill some small holes and super glue two small diameter rods/pipes (size of nails) that stand upright in the end of the acrylic rod. Drill two similarly sized holes in your model. Slip the rod/pipes into the holes of your aicraft... and voila... a nice stand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Night Hawk Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 As for the Tamiya Tape, which is most recommended? 6mm, 10mm, 18mm Masking Tape Dispensers or the bigger 40mm? :lol: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kuman Posted September 9, 2005 Author Share Posted September 9, 2005 It recommend for a stand to invest a couple bucks into some clear acrylic rod from USPLASTICS.com. You can get alot from a little. Then get a large coffee can and a heat gun. Get some heavy gloves to protect your hands. Then heat the plastic evenly and as the rod becomes bendable... push it into the grooves in the coffee can. This will make a nice curved clear rod. Drill a hold in a wooden base and insert the clear acrylic rod. Drill some small holes and super glue two small diameter rods/pipes (size of nails) that stand upright in the end of the acrylic rod. Drill two similarly sized holes in your model. Slip the rod/pipes into the holes of your aicraft... and voila... a nice stand. :) thanks for the stand tips there.. very nice idea indeed.... i'll try to find some of that arcyclic rod and give that a try.. i guess this is the easiesy way to make a stand as compared to my idea using a steel wire.... bending those wire will require some force.. :lol: thanks.. BTW: nice Robotech (Veritech) model there.. ;) wffwii so.. i guess i'll be investing on that Tamiya Putty Basic type then... :D and i'll try to find that Scotch "blue Painters Tape" and give it a try as well.. :) nighthawk i'm also wondering about it... i guess bigger is better (??) keep'em coming guys.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tomr Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 As for the Tamiya Tape, which is most recommended?6mm, 10mm, 18mm Masking Tape Dispensers or the bigger 40mm? :unsure: Yes! Actually, and without trying to be humorous :D the width of the tape depends where you intend to use it. The wider stuff covers more area, but it doesn't bend side to side as well as the narrower stuff. The narrower stuff works better in complex curves, as it bends easier with out "tenting". Not to say that it never will, but it is just easier to work with on canopies and such. HTH Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wffwii Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 I use all three widths too, with the Tamiya tape. If I have a really complex curve, or a straight line around curves, I will cut the Scotch blue tape to about 1 or 2 mm and then lay it down. before I press it down firmly, I can move it around with a toothpick to get it exactly where I want it, then I put wider strips of tape overlapping to cover the surface around my target. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Night Hawk Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 Thanks a bunch tomr and wffwii Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volzj Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 I only use the Tamiya 6mm tpae, for the simple reason that it's the easiest size to find around here. If I need smaller I just cut strips, larger, I can go with the the 3M blue painter's tape. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trevor Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 (edited) For the Tamiya tape, I've discovered that if you buy the bigger roles of tape will cost only a couple dollars more than the thin roles of tape. Therefore I buy the widest roles I can get. If I need a thinner piece, I simply cut a thinner strip with my exacto knife. Its like buying tamiya tape in bulk form. If you're not sure what I mean, lets say the 6mm roll costs $5 (that a purely fictional price). The 18mm roll might cost $8, but I'm getting three times more tape. If I bought three rolls of 6mm tape, it would have cost me $15. Edited September 9, 2005 by Trevor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Night Hawk Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 For the Tamiya tape, I've discovered that if you buy the bigger roles of tape will cost only a couple dollars more than the thin roles of tape. Therefore I buy th ewidest roles I can get. If I need a thinner piece, I simply cut a thinner strip wit hmy exacto knife. Its like buying tamiya tape in bulk form.If you're not sure what I mean, lets say the 6mm roll costs $5 (that a purely fictional price). The 18mm roll might cost $8, but I'm getting three times more tape. If I bought three rolls of 6mm tape, it would have cost me $15. Awesome tip! Thanks Trevor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trevor Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 (edited) When it comes to putty, I think it really depends on where in the world you are. Some countries don't have the same selection as others, and this is easy to forget today with the internet. Squadron 'green' putty - a very 'hot' putty that melts plastic easily (I don't recommend it) Squadron 'white' putty - not too hot, dries rather quickly, but can be rather porous. Tamiya putty - not too hot, dries rather quickly, but I find it too porous for most of my work. Bondo red glazing putty - cheap, not too hot, rather quick to dry, porous, cracks if its too thick. Testor's putty - inconsistant mixture, very cold with poor holding capabilities, cracks and fractures easily (not recommended) I personally use Squadron white and Bondo red putties for most of my uses. I've also used Tamiya's stuff and it will work in a pinch. I also use a liquid putty like Gunze's Mr. Surfacer as a sealer, especially when using porous putties. Super glue can also be used, and I was recently shown than you can mix it with baking powder as a cheap, high speed filler. In this case, remember that you have to work fast with super glue as once its more than a few minutes old, its dried harder than the plastic its on. Edited September 9, 2005 by Trevor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Blaze_7 Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 ehh i get the crappy room painitng masking tape from Scotch it always bleeds though!!! i cant find a decent masking tape!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kuman Posted September 12, 2005 Author Share Posted September 12, 2005 When it comes to putty, I think it really depends on where in the world you are. Some countries don't have the same selection as others, and this is easy to forget today with the internet.Squadron 'green' putty - a very 'hot' putty that melts plastic easily (I don't recommend it) Squadron 'white' putty - not too hot, dries rather quickly, but can be rather porous. Tamiya putty - not too hot, dries rather quickly, but I find it too porous for most of my work. Bondo red glazing putty - cheap, not too hot, rather quick to dry, porous, cracks if its too thick. Testor's putty - inconsistant mixture, very cold with poor holding capabilities, cracks and fractures easily (not recommended) I personally use Squadron white and Bondo red putties for most of my uses. I've also used Tamiya's stuff and it will work in a pinch. I also use a liquid putty like Gunze's Mr. Surfacer as a sealer, especially when using porous putties. Super glue can also be used, and I was recently shown than you can mix it with baking powder as a cheap, high speed filler. In this case, remember that you have to work fast with super glue as once its more than a few minutes old, its dried harder than the plastic its on. this awesome Trevor thanks for the tips... i think i'll settle with the Tamiya Putty - Basic Type since that is the most accessible here at my place.... thanks... BTW: i just get my hand on a couple of REVELL models... these tips is going to be very helpful... thanks again.. and keep the tips coming guys (gals) kuman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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