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About Trevor

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 02/11/1979

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  • Location
    Airdrie, AB, Canada
  • Interests
    Scale models, Photography, Writing and Flying

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  1. Those 757 wheel-wells are nice and clean. On a 737, where they're closer to the ground and all the wonderful grim and fluids getting splashed in there, they turn almost black within a week of two of delivery. Even after a heavy washing, they still look terrible. Thanks to Covid, I'm unable to snap you a reference pic, but as far as 737s go, you really can't make them too dirty. Wheel hubs, and underside of gear doors get covered with a sticky layer of grim/soot and stay that way.
  2. Model Masters French Blue looked pretty close when I painted my 737. Trevor
  3. By WCRMC rules - it has a registration, its therefore civilian. That covers warbirds too.
  4. The surface finish is rough, apparently from the type of mould creation process Mach 2 employs. I don't think its any worse than Heller's DC-6 or Constellation kits. The seams will need to be puttied, especially the wing-to-body, the engine cowling and the hull directly below the propeller. Like all other Mach 2 kits the canopy is thick and distorts what you can see inside, but there's not much to see there anyways. Its not as bad as Mach 2's bigger kits, and avoids most of their warpage issues because of its smaller size. And other than a long out of production resin kit, its the only 1/72nd scale SeaBee in town. If you're thinking about a 1/48th kit, find the Glencoe release of the Olimp/Lindberg kit because it was at least cast in clear plastic. The others were either silver or white. The Lindberg kit also has all the same fit issues as the Mach 2 kit, plus no interior, extremely basic external details and an incorrectable thin hull. Hopefully that helps.
  5. All of Air Spray's A-26s had the late-style clamshell canopies.
  6. What's your mailing address? I can send you everything from my Revell Ventura.
  7. Can anyone who bought the civil boxing of the Roden Staggeriwng please provide me with a scan of the decal sheet? Because of the airplane I'm doing, I'll have the paint my own stripes but I need a guide for their shape. Cheers,
  8. As far as I know the only model that fits your bill is the Iron Shipwright 1/350th resin kit. Iron Shipwright Remember, if it doesn't drop bombs or wear a coat of camouflage, it doesn't sell...
  9. Its all about your personal taste. Some modelers have to have glass-like glossy finishes on their airliners. Others don't. As someone who works on these birds everyday (B737NGs) I can tell you they have anything but glass-like finishes. We keep our planes washed on a regular schedule but that don't stop things like rivet rash, paint chipping or fading. Some of our 737s would put you're heaviest weathered models to shame. There's one where the paint has popped off about 50% of the rivet heads - that's thousands of silver dots all over the fuselage. A few have faded to an almost flat finish, while others leak lav juice, oil and deicing fluid all over the place. On real Boeings the lateral butt-joints (aka production joints) between sections are about 0.2 inches wide. These are then filled with BMS5-95 sealant and painted to match the corporate colour scheme. The longitudinal lap joints that run along the length of the fuselage overlap each other (hense the term 'lap'), but even these have their edges sealed. In my opinion, while any panel line on a model is a gross exaduration of a panel joint, a nice fine line is still ideal to have as it'll allow you to hold a wash that will replicate the weathering I talked about above. When I get to my airliners, people will be surprised just how dirty they are. I hope that answers your question.
  10. So my Mi-17 project has stalled. The reason? All the crazy mold/seam lines that Hobby Boss has put all over that model. I've adressed most of them, but the two fuel tanks have left me scratching my head in wonder. I'm not sure if they're supposed to be panel lines, or where they're supposed to start/stop. Can anyone supply a good photo of just the fuel tanks so I can figure this out? Thanks,
  11. Depending on how curious you are you can order a copy of the FAA records to discover that chopper's 'official' history. http://aircraft.faa.gov/e.gov/nd/ Even if the aircraft is in use with a government agency, if it has a civilian registration it has to conform to all airworthiness laws. That means that all modifications have to be approved and the FAA records updated to include these changes. I've ordered several dozen aircraft records (paper versions) and they've only cost me around $10 - $12. That is a nice colour scheme by the way.
  12. Thanks guys, I have the KC-97L and "Flight 666" sent the instructions to me. Now I can finally finish my long forgotten Stratotanker. Trevor
  13. Can anyone send me a scan or photo of the decal placement instructions for the Academy 1/72nd scale Boeing KC-97 Stratotanker? photomctavish at hotmail.com Thanks,
  14. Ryanair's boss, Michael O'Leary is a king at getting his airline free publicity. If you haven't noticed by now, O'Leary's crazy comments get him into the press almost monthly with silly stories like these; airline wants pay toilets, wants no bathrooms, wants passengers to fly standing up, selling inflight *********, all make great sound bites and the press quickly reprints them. There's no way 90% of the stuff O'Leary suggests would make it past the aviation regulations but he still says them. Why? Becaues he gets free advertising out of it. As for the window shades. Yes, Ryanair did delete them. Boeing window shades run between $300 and $500 each and they rip and tear constantly. A number of airlines have inquired about removing them, Ryanair is the only one that actually did. Inflight *********? What about all those XXX magazines that sell in the airport magazine/book shops?
  15. Hi Chuck, It was a pleasure to see you and your models on Saturday. I'm glad Scott and Derwin were able to answer some of your questions. I speak from personal experience that when it comes to contests, anything can go. Years ago I did a rush build on a 1/48th scale Hurricane simply to use up some decals and get myself back into the swing of things. I wasn't trying for a contest model (none of mine are) and I ended up spraying six! coats of camouflage before I got it right. That model swept every category it was entered in at four or five shows. Step forward a few years. I carefully built my super-duper Hurricane. I did everything as good as I could, in my opinion, head and shoulders above my previous Hurricane. This was supposed to be my piece-de-resistance. It hasn't even placed. As builders, we all know where are flaws are - that one silvered decal, the seamline that wouldn't fill, the gloop in the paint, etc. Judges have about 5-10 minutes to look at all the models in a category, rank them 1, 2, 3 and move on. Since the WCRMC started 17 years ago, lifting models has been an absolute no-no. The risks involved in having your model damaged, whether because the judge drops it, touches a fragile part, or the builder doesn't permantently attach parts to the model (ie: canopies) is too great. We've always encouraged modelers to bring a mirror to aid judges if there's something they want to show on the underside. Pen lights are also another WCRMC no-no. On the bright side, since your Hornet didn't place its welcome to return and compete at another WCRMC. We'll see you there.
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