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Josh-

I wouldn't. Even though the Future may protect the part to some extent, it's important to remember that Tenax (or any solvent adhesive) works by melting/welding the parts together, and this is invariably going to result in problems with clear parts. However, you should be able to use CA without any worries of fogging. I also use a cement called Goop, which is kind of like rubber cement on steroids. It dries clear, and has a very flexible bond. Five minute epoxy and watch crystal cement are also great for attaching canopies.

HTH!

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It does depend on the application, though. If you're attaching, say, an F-4 windscreen or an item with a reasonable amount of framing around the edges, you SHOULD be able to attach it with liquid glues (Tenax et al) if you're very, very careful and just touch the join with a fine bush to let a bit of glue flow between the parts. You're looking to use the absolute barest minimum of glue required, or else you probably will fog the plastic, and apply the glue where the framing is the widest (so at the front of the F-4 windscreen). It is a bit risky, so be extremely careful and be willing to deal with failure. If you want to attach a part with little or no framing, say, the canopy on Tamiya's P-51, then no, it won't work.

This is nothing at all to do with Future, BTW - it won't provide any sort of protection from the glue. You would have to scrape it away from all the joins to be glued, though.

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you SHOULD be able to attach it with liquid glues

Right - it CAN be done, but for the amount of risk involved, I wouldn't bother with it, With a solvent adhesive that is as thin as Tenax, you're almost asking for trouble. It would be just my luck to try it, and have it be the one time that it runs all over the place. I still would recommend Goop or five minute epoxy, as these are the safest options....they are easily applied, and can be removed from clear parts before it dries with a Q-Tip dipped in PollyScale thinner.

As an aside, there are much cheaper alternatives to Tenax, these being Ambroid Pro-Weld, and ordinary lacquer thinner. I'm partial to Ambroid myself, but I also use lacquer thinner in cetain applications. :cheers:

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