MoFo

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  1. Just to clarify for everybody, he's asking about Mr. Paint: Not Mr. Color. It *should* be fine over standard acrylic lacquer primers (Mr. Surfacer, Tamiya's primers, Alclad Microfiller Pimers, etc), but if you want to be absolutely certain, you could always used one of Mr. Paints own primers: http://mrpaint.sk/index.php?route=product/search&search=primer And of course, experiment before use, just in case. And it should clean up with standard lacquer thinners. If you want to think it for painting, I'd go with a Gunze Levelling thinner, Mr. Color thinner or Tamiya lacquer thinner, though.
  2. Decent overview here: https://www.nasa.gov/centers/dryden/pdf/120298main_FS-043-DFRC.pdf But basically, it was an experimental pod that could mount a functional model of the X-33 - which would be mounted on the platform - so they could test engine aerodynamics at altitude. (interesting to see the wingtips folded. Guess that's for carrier operations :) )
  3. Your link re-directs to this thread. Weird. Anyway, the comments just say 'arrived in the mail', that it's not the L-39 (it's a Czech forum, after all), that the actuators inside the fuselage are interesting, wondering when they'll announce a release date, and wondering about the RIO IP cover material. Nothing all that interesting. One thing *I* would note: if(!) these are new CAD images, that suggests they're still designing the kit. Which suggests they haven't started tooling the kit. Which would mean it's still several months from being released. It's possible that the images are older, and don't reflect the current status of the project, in which case they may be further along than they're letting on. But taking the evidence at face value... it's going to be a while. (note: I have no special insider information about this kit or its development. I just own a calendar and have an ability to tell time)
  4. Tack windows in place. A piece of tape on the outside of the fuselage will help set the level. Flip the model over and glue in the supports from the inside, allowing you to butt your strip up against the vac window. Be careful to glue the strip to the fuselage only, not the window. Peel off the tape and pop out the windows. Secure the strips with some more CA, clean up any excess glue, and paint them. Glue your windows back into the hole, with your cement of choice. * if your windows end up getting glued in place, just cut your mask a little smaller, so the white styrene strip gets covered with paint. ** if you're worried about the windows getting glued in place, cover the inside with BMF, wrapped up around the sides of the plastic, then tack it in place. Any glue will stick to the thin foil, but you'll still be able to pop the vac window out.
  5. That's not what I said. It's actually pretty much the opposite of what I said. Are the wheels wrong? Yes. Do they include optional pitots? I dunno, maybe not. Do either of those things really matter? Not really. If those are the worst things about the kit, I'd say it's a solid win for the rivet counters.
  6. John Alcorn's two books are commonly recommended starting points: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Scratch-Builders-Aircraft-Techniques/dp/0764307959 https://www.amazon.com/Scratch-Celebration-Static-Airplane-Modelers/dp/0887404170 Harry Woodman's book is on-line, and a classic, too: http://web.archive.org/web/20080122044909/www.wwimodeler.com/harry/woodman.html Fon Davis' DVD isn't really airplane specific, but I've heard really positive things about it (some really respected modelers are big fans): https://www.amazon.com/Introduction-Professional-Model-Making-Davis/dp/B0066CJOAS/ Gerald Wingrove has two really great books, too. They're about scratch building cars, and he uses metal, but there is still a lot of great info for aircraft modellers: https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Car-Modeller-1/dp/1861266448/ https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Car-Modeller-Gerald-Wingrove/dp/1861267509/ Lastly, for more videos, you can just spend a bunch of time going down the Youtube rabbit hole.
  7. Pretty sure one of the comments somewhere mentioned two pitot or probe options. Though they may have been referring to the IFR probe, I guess (can't remember where I saw it, and couldn't find it in a quick check of the most obvious locations). That's getting pretty nitpicky, though. It will be *easily* corrected with a $5 turned brass replacement, which will be vastly superior to any kit part anyway. If the wing angle is wrong, thats a problem. If the fuselage shape is wrong, that's a problem. If they only include one pitot option? It feels like reaching to slam a kit over that. I'd say it's more a case of 'too bad they didn't' rather than 'their research is terrible because it's obviously wrong'. Frankly, I'd say a bigger 'problem' is that the wheels kinda suck. Apparently they swapped tires with the tow tractor. (compare the head-on render with the head-on photo; real aircraft tires are round) The folded pitot is only an issue for the limited number of people who want to build it with a folded pitot. Those tires are going to suck for anyone who wants to build it gear down (which is most people). But again, if that's one of the biggest criticisms, I'd be pretty happy; it would be nice if they were better, but it's easily (and inexpensively) fixed, and most kit wheels are poor anyway. Anyway... more renders up at Britmodeller: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235016634-new-from-tanmodel-132-su-33/&
  8. It's a digital render (or illustration) traced over a real photo, and spread by a bunch of clickbaity image sites. It's particularly obvious when you compare the two photos side by side (should be the first two thumbnails here). Actually, googling SR-71 photos, there seem to be a few of them. The original: The pod is just the standard LASRE though, as Berkut said.
  9. The EJ kai version has different wing tips, and two antennae on the tail, which have to be filed off. The kai-specific sprue has a revised instrument panel, but you can just use the standard one from sprue D. The F-4EJ kit (non kai, just the early EJ) will be the same plastic as an E, though. As will the RF-4EJ kits (the gun-nosed tactical recce version, not the camera nosed RF-4E, obviously)
  10. Same reason you rarely see weathered race cars, even though they get filthy: People just like them better that way.
  11. Yeah, I suspect it's more a lighting issue highlighting the contour around the lerx, rather than a real issue. The WIP renders don't show any unsightly bulges there and, FWIW, I can get similar highlights playing around with the Kinetic/Aviation Art kit. There's a bit of a slope change right in front of the wheel wells, which can catch the light if you orient it just-so. http://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=105045&start=450#p1971109
  12. I'm kind of losing faith in Tanmodel. They have announced a LOT of ambitious projects and delivered very little. Especially for such a young company, it would be nice to see them actually *finish* something before announcing a bunch of new stuff. Seriously, it's getting kind of ridiculous at this point: F-5 in 1/48 and 1/32 F-4 in 1/32 SR-71 in 1/48 Buccaneer in 1/72 and 1/48 UAV in 1/24 T129 in 1/72 and 1/32 F-111 in 1/32 Magister in 1/32 T-37 in 1/48 SPAAG in 1/35 Blenheim in 1/48 CN-235 in 1/48 PZL P.24 in various scales Like, it should be exciting news to hear about a new kit being announced, but at this point, I'm more
  13. Going by previous kits from Valom, closer to High Planes than Tamiya. Valom's stuff is limited run, seemingly from hand-made masters, with fettling and tweaking required. Not terrible and it will certainly be leaps and bounds better than the existing kit, but it will probably be in the same vein as traditional, old-school, limited run kits.
  14. Setting aside the various accuracy issues with the basic kit*, yes, it is truly a JA37 - it includes a fuselage plug, revised tail, new instrument panel, etc. Specifically, it's a JA37C, based on the cockpit. *canard flaps are straight, not angled; sawtooth on tail isn't parallel; wheels suck; RAT is missing, pylons are off; etc. etc.