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About MoFo

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    Arise... again.

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  1. USN: A junior member is embarrassing the service on social media USMC: Hold my beer...
  2. Black Friday Sales

    Shapeways is offering free shipping: From Monday to Sunday (November 20th-26th) there will be FREE SHIPPING for Own Models Only, for orders over $25. On Cyber Monday, November 27th, there will be FREE SHIPPING for both Shoppers and Own Models, for orders over $25. (In other words, free shipping on stuff uploaded to your own account all week, and free shipping if you want to buy something from someone else's Shapeways storefront on Monday.)
  3. Black Friday Sales

    If you live in Eastern Europe, Eduard only charges you $8 for those overtrees, and that includes 20% VAT. You're paying a $7 'Foreigner Tax'.
  4. If only there were some way to find out the price. Sadly, we'll probably never know.
  5. Black Friday Sales

    25% off Eduard's inflated US prices isn't really a big deal. I'd rather see them offer the same pricing they charge in Eastern Europe, since it's *half* the US prices, every day. Even charging their EU export prices would be a bigger deal than 25% off their global/US price. /rant
  6. Decals for Tornado F3 in ODS

    Just to be pissy about accuracy, there were no Tornados in Operation Desert Storm.
  7. Aviation Art Su-33 1/48

    He's trying to claim that more than 140,000 - one hundred and forty thousand people have signed a petition to get an almost completely unknown model manufacturer to release a conversion set for a subject with limited interest, from an esoteric model manufacturer. AA has never released... anything. Nobody knows what their products will be like. And most modellers have met the announcement of the Su-33 by wishing they'd done a more mainstream Flanker instead. Kinetic *might* have sold a couple of thousand kits, but probably not much more. Just to underscore how moronic this is, AMK, who seem to be the darling of the modelling world at the moment, failed to get 5000 modellers interested in one of the most popular subjects in modern aviation, after spreading the word across social media and with more than a year of built up hype. And yet apparently 28x more people want a special update set for their Kinetic Su-33, based on one post on a random discussion board. Riiiiiiiiiiight. But hey, at least he's stopped pretending to talk like a pirate, so, small steps.
  8. Looking for 1/48 Su-17 Tow Bar

    If you can't find a spare, one of the Eastern European resin manufacturers might have one - I'm thinking someone like Armory or North Star. There seems to have been a spate of aftermarket tow bars for Russian aircraft.
  9. Aviation Art Su-33 1/48

    Yes, it is dumb. The 'modified parts' amount to the entire kit. So if you want the modified parts... buy the AA kit.
  10. Masking Putty

    Liquid masking film. Any hobby shop with a Microscale rack should have Micro Mask - it's blue, so probably the stuff you remember. Ambroid EZ-Mask is also found in a lot of North American hobby shops; it's more of an emerald green, but sold in the same style of Microscale jars. Gunze sell it in a few styles as "Mr. Masking Sol" in a glass jar. And Humbrol have a purple version called Maskol. You should be able to find at least one of those from pretty much any hobby shop. Barring that, art supply stores should also sell masking fluids - often as liquid frisket or drawing gum.
  11. Pledge Klear Floor WAX

    I'm not in the UK, but a search on Britmodeller turned up this thread from earlier this year: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235020742-canopies-shine-like-klearfuture/ which may be helpful? For that matter, it might help to ask on Britmodeller, if you don't get any useful replies on ARC.
  12. Pledge Klear Floor WAX

    I think the OP's question is, what is the UK equivalent of Future, now, in 2017, because he's travelling to the UK and would like to pick some up. In the UK. United Kingdom.
  13. Gunze is the only company I'm aware of that makes a primer specifically for resin - Mr Resin Primer. I've never had a problem with Tamiya's spray primers, Mr. Surfacer or Alclad's Microfiller primer when sprayed on resin, though. And I've painted a bunch of 1/43 resin cars. That said, if you want to go the hardware store/automotive paint route, these types of paint are called "high build primer". Automotive suppliers will have it (pretty sure Alclad's primers are re-bottled DuPont paint), but you'll probably need to buy a lot, so it won't be cheap. Duplicolor, Krylon and the like will have spray cans too. Although, unless it's a model paint you know is safe for use on plastic, I'd test them first before spraying on styrene (resin and metal should be fine, though).
  14. In terms of plastic... there's not much difference for painting a car or a plane. Tamiya's spray primers are excellent, but Alclad's Microfiller primers will work just as well. More importantly for cars is the using a colour of primer that will a.) give you a neutral base for your paint coat and b.) block the plastic underneath. A white primer coat is best for most colours, unless you're you're after a specific effect (say, silver for a candy finish). Reds do well over a pink primer (this is how Ferrari paints their cars; Tamiya recently released a pink primer/surfacer for this reason), while black doesn't really matter. If the plastic is a particularly strong colour that will be hard to cover, it can be a good idea to use a grey primer first, to kill the colour, before spraying your white primer. Basically, if the colour of the plastic will impact the paint, use primers first so that it doesn't. Additionally, you need to be careful of how the plastic was coloured. Some manufacturers use pigments that can leech out through the paint, tinting the colour over time. You can test for this by soaking a length of sprue in thinner for a few days (Tamiya's lacquer thinner is recommended, but 99% isopropyl should also work). If the thinner stays clear, you're fine; if it gets tinted, the colour will bleed. There are a couple of ways to deal with this: one is to soak the parts in thinner until the colour stops leeching out; another is to use a primer sealer to act as a barrier (Zero and MCW both make them); while some people feel that a primer coat of Tamiya AS-12 will act as a barrier (though I've heard mixed results with that). Tamiya, Hasegawa and Ebbro have all suffered from this, with red plastic being particularly notorious. ---- For BBR and Tameo... Regular model paints don't stick well to white metal - it chips off fairly easily. You'll want to give all parts a good sanding with ~400 grit sandpaper to roughen up the surface slightly and provide a key. Some people think soaking parts in vinegar for a while helps (probably doesn't hurt). Most importantly though is to use a *metal* primer. Gunze make one, Tamiya makes one, most hardware stores will have automotive metal primers. The metal primer will allow your paint to stick to the metal, which will dramatically reduce/eliminate chipping and flaking. You can then use your normal primer to get an even base for your paint. You can use a resin primer for resin bodies - again, Gunze have a specialty resin primer - though I never have. A decent lacquer-based primer sticks well enough in my experience. Particularly with BBR's resin, which tends to have a fairly matte finish. ---- For colour coats, that's mostly a personal preference. Tamiya's spray cans (decanted or not) are excellent in my experience. If you're looking for the easiest way to get a good gloss, that's probably it. Since it sounds like you're looking at race cars (Tameo, BBR, 1/20), there are a few manufacturers who sell automotive acrylic lacquers (DuPont, PPG, etc.) in accurate, colour-matched race car paints. Zero is probably the biggest name available from Hiroboy in the UK, Spot Model in Europe, Hobbyworld in the US and Paintsmodelsandmore.com in Canada. Model Car Wold (MCW) also have a wide selection, though it's geared more to US racing. Gravity Colors are a newer brand but gaining popularity with a pretty good selection. All three brands are basecoat/topcoat though, which means the colour coats (base coat) are matte, and you need to apply a separate gloss topcoat. Which isn't a big deal, because... ---- You should apply a clear gloss over your paint anyway. That helps avoid polishing through your colour coat - if you see colour on your polishing cloth, it means you've burned through the gloss coat, so you need to stop. As for *what* gloss to use, again that's mostly personal preference. Tamiya's spray gloss is very good, but because it's a lacquer it can be very hard on decals. This can be a problem for race cars. You *can* spray it over decals, but you need to build up light, misty coats, and leave the model until it's *fully* cured (this goes for any lacquer gloss). As a gloss over a matte basecoat though, it's fine. Because of the issues with lacquer clears, a lot of auto modellers use Urethane 2K clear coats. These provide a deep gloss and cure to a harder finish than lacquers, which helps with polishing, but they are also highly noxious and *must* be used with proper safety precautions. Zero and Gravity both sell 2K clears, but you can also source them from most auto body supply shops.