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About MoFo

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    Arise... again.

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  1. MoFo

    Bought a Printer!

    Pro-tip for people with SLA printers: the resin makes a fantastic filler, particularly for things like FDM prints. Brush on a thin coat of resin, let it self-level for a few minutes, then stick it outside in the sun for a couple of minutes to cure. Gives a fairly smooth surface right off the bat, plus it's way easier to sand than PLA, so it's a lot less work to get a perfect surface for paint. Basically, like XTC-3D, but you pick when it cures, so there's less of a worry about drips or runs, no concerns about heat, and zero waste. It should be great for things like panel lines, too, since you can apply it pretty precisely, wipe away the excess while it's still wet, and don't have to worry about shrinkage when it cures. (maybe we should start a generic 3D printing thread...)
  2. MoFo

    Air-to-Air Combat Between India and Pakistan

    No. Not if they're reputable, they don't.
  3. MoFo

    Air-to-Air Combat Between India and Pakistan

    You probably don't want to use a Russian propaganda website as an information source.
  4. MoFo

    KA Models aftermarket parts

    Wow, that's surprising. And dumb. Especially since they already do 1/48 CF decals.
  5. MoFo

    KA Models aftermarket parts

    The carbon fiber is almost certainly decal.
  6. That won't really work - the Modelsvit exhausts are 5mm (.2") larger in diameter than the Esci parts, so you'd be looking at major surgery in some form or another to get them to fit - either copious amounts of filling, or hacking an inch or more off the back of the nacelles. And when all is said and done, the Modelsvit parts are actually pretty awful;hey're really simple and crude and not much improvement over the Esci exhausts. IMO you'd be better off just using the Esci parts to depict the earlier engine type. They're not totally accurate, but they look broadly similar, (kind of like the kit itself) and it would be a lot less work.
  7. MoFo

    Bought a Printer!

    Three ways to help cope with that (in order of easiest to most 'correct': Increase your first layer thickness in Cura (or whatever slicer you use). This will make JUST the first layer thicker; all subsequent layers will be whatever you've set as your layer thickness. This doesn't fix the problem, it just makes the margin of error proportionately less significant (if you're out by .1mm on a .2mm layer, that's bad; if you're out by .1mm on a .8mm layer, it's not as big a deal). Related to this, you generally don't want layer height to be more than 80% of your nozzle's diameter - you want the plastic to squish down into the surface below, sort of like this pic - so if you're using a standard .4mm nozzle, you'll want to keep your layer height at .32mm or less. Minimum height doesn't matter (I regularly print at .04mm layer thickness), but maximum does. Use aluminum foil to shim up your build surface. You can put a few small squares of foil on your heatbed to fill in any dips, so that when you put your build surface on top, it will be level. Some people use tape, but I prefer foil since it conducts heat better than paper. Although with a removeable bed, your foil shims might move around as you pull the bed on and off. Plus, the heat will be a little less even, since it's not one solid piece contacting the build surface. Oh, and a good way to check for dips is to get a dial indicator or depth gauge and print out something like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2412647 (there's a video embedded in the page; their channel has a bunch of good info, too). Basically, you level (tram) your bed, then mount the depth gauge and the printer will run a series of passes over the bed and the dial on the depth gauge will let you see what areas are too low/too high, and by how much. Then just shim in those areas and check it again. Or you could print out some wedge jacks and mount them between the Y-carriage plate and the heatbed to push out any dips in your bed. Again, it's best to go over your bed with the dial indicator so you know exactly where you're low, then you'll put a jack under that area and tighten it until the bed is level. The down side here is that your wedge jacks are going to be the same material you're printing with, so there's a risk they'll deform from the bed heat. I get around this by laminating some wood (which is a good insulator) on the top and bottom of the jack pieces, so it's not in direct contact with the bed. It's also fiddly to get the jacks in place and tightened exactly, but once it's done, it lasts a long time. I've actually done this on my CR-10, so I could eliminate the (heavy) mirror and just print on a thin sheet of PEI. Oh, and one other note about layer heights. On your Ender, you typically want to keep your layers to multiples of .04mm (.04, .08, .12, .16, .2, .24, .28 or .32 for the stock nozzle). The reason is that, running the math with the thread pitch on the leadscrew and the number of stops on the stepper motors, .04mm equals a full stop on the motors, so they can do it accurately and repeatedly. If you use a different number - say .1mm layers - the stepper is trying to hold between stops, so it can't do it as accurately, which will ultimately result in print defects.
  8. MoFo

    Question On Removing Alclad Aqua-Gloss (ALC-600)

    An ammonia-based window cleaner should strip the canopy quickly and cleanly (windex, windowlene, or the Australian equivalent thereof). Barring that, a weak ammonia solution (~5%) should work. Isopropyl alcohol = isopropanol = the alcohol wipes nurses use before giving you injections. It should be pretty easy to find at any pharmacy, in the first aid section. And I'd agree, the problem was likely that the Tamiya hadn't fully cured. Next time, try letting it set for a week before dipping.
  9. MoFo

    1/48 Revell B1 bomber new kit

    The B-1 uses a different engine.
  10. MoFo

    1/48 Revell B1 bomber new kit

    And the wrong size. And the wrong engine.
  11. MoFo

    Bought a Printer!

    Yeah, sloppy assembly is probably a big problem. If you approach it like you're building a CNC machine (which, functionally, it is), and make sure everything is square and true and tight, you'll be off to a good start; if you slam it together like IKEA furniture... not so much. I think the biggest problem is simply that people expect it to be some kind of Star Trek-like replicator or an appliance they can just plug in and use - like a modern car, or the latest smartphone - when really it's a machine that needs substantial user maintenance, like a Model T or a 70's computer. If you go into it expecting that it will be occasionally (often?) frustrating, but interesting to learn, you should do fine. Glass bed... depends. The primary reason people use glass is that it's typically flat, and rigid enough that it doesn't matter if the heatbed underneath it is perfectly flat. That's why all the CR-10 users swapped out their stock glass beds (which were warped/bowed/rippled) for mirror tiles (which are cheap and much flatter). A side benefit is that they're pretty durable and easy to use when levelled properly - PLA sticks well to hot class and pops cleanly off of cool glass (using tape, or hairspray, or glue are mostly quick fixes for an improperly levelled bed). The biggest downside is that it's heavy, so you'll need to adjust some of your speed settings down to minimize the defects that moving such a heavy mass can introduce. Practically, it means that your prints will take a little more time, since you'll probably want to keep under 60mm/s instead of printing at 80mm/s. If you're trying to crank stuff out, it can be a bit of a hassle; if you're willing to wait, it's not a big deal. The other downside is that, with certain geometries (particularly large, thin, flat shapes), your prints can start to warp around the edges, lifting off the glass. The worst case scenario is that the nozzle knocks your part loose and you keep extruding in midair. You can use brims to minimize this, but it's always going to be a bit of an issue. Other surfaces (like PEI) form a stronger bond with plastic when hot or (like Buildtak) have a texture that helps grip the plastic. So my suggestion would be to try levelling with the stock bed, and once you have all four corners accurately zeroed, print a grid of 9 squares to check in between the corners. If they're significantly out of whack (more than +/- .05mm) then yeah, get some mirror and use that. If they're pretty close (say, +/- .025mm), try printing on the magnetic sheet for a while and see how you like it. If you want something smoother or more resilient, you can go to glass; if you want a flexible build plate (it's easier to remove parts with a lot of surface area contact), you can add a sheet of PEI on top. As for other common upgrades... My general philosophy is that you should understand the basics before you start trying to tweak things. The learning curve is steep enough that you should have a firm understanding of how to make the printer work - and fix things when it isn't - before you start adding even more potential problems. Some tweaks, like a glass bed, are really unlikely to cause problems so they're fine to add as a beginner. But lots of people go nuts throwing stuff at their printer, and just get deeper in the weeds. If nothing else, you should only make ONE change at a time, then dial your printer back in before doing anything else. That way, if something goes wrong, you'll at least know what is causing the problem. If it comes with round, silver bed levelling springs, it would be worth swapping them out for stiffer, flat-cross-section yellow springs (or blue or red, which are even stiffer). Loose springs can cause your bed level to drift, which is annoying. Stiffer springs won't change the mechanical operation of the printer, it will just help you keep level. It's also worth adding a washer between the spring and the bottom of the heatbed, so you don't scratch through the soldermask and risk shorting something out. If the printer doesn't come with some sort of strain relief around the heatbed wires, that should be the first thing you print. Otherwise they will break sooner rather than later, potentially shorting out and causing a fire: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186203 Vibration dampers are nice and will really reduce mechanical noise, but it means moving all the stepper motors slightly, so you'll have to tweak each axis, which is kind of a hassle on a well-tuned printer. Probably easier to add before you've built your printer, actually. A good, much easier alternative is to just put some squares of a thin foam sheet under the feet (something like a yoga mat is ideal), to isolate the printer better. It's worth using the printer for a while to see how much the noise annoys you, though - if it's in a garage and you can't hear it, who cares? Noctua (or other silent fans) are relatively simple to install, if you can crimp or solder the connections. They don't really change the way the printer operates (just make it quieter), so they're fine as an early modification. Again, it depends how much the noise bugs you, but the stock fans do tend to get noisy over time. Firmware. Personally, I'd suggest leaving the stock firmware until you get the hang of the printer. Make sure the printer works, and you've got a decent understanding of how it works (and how to fix the common problems) first. Most people are fine swapping it out, but you're changing a lot of settings so if something goes wrong, it can be hard to pin down what and why. Capricorn bowden tubes are popular, and it's mostly marketing BS. You cannot print hotter with them and the *slight* difference in diameter won't make much difference for PLA, ABS or HIPS. Fan ducts... The stock fan duct is okay, but not great. I think it's worth keeping the stock duct for a while, until you start getting the hang of things. Mostly because it's 'sufficient' for most simple prints, and if you're printing something that needs improved cooling, it's probably a more difficult print than you should attempt as a beginner. Also, most replacement ducts will require you to unscrew the hotend to install, which will throw your bed level out of whack, and can throw your hotend out of square with the bed. That said, I think the best part about replacement ducts isn't actually the cooling, it's better visibility of the nozzle, which makes troubleshooting easier. Octoprint and a webcam is a really nice upgrade if your printer isn't near your PC. It's nice to be able to fire an STL wirelessly to the printer, and be able to monitor the progress. Again though, I'd suggest waiting to set it up - you should learn your machine and physically watch it print first. The best way to troubleshoot is to actually watch what's going wrong so you can figure out how to fix it and having to physically insert the cards to print means you'll be there to watch the first layer go down, see if it's underextruding of the level is off, etc. Bed level sensors and replacement hotends (MicroSwiss or E3D) are definitely advanced upgrades for advanced users. They substantially change the way the printer functions, so you want to be really good at troubleshooting the standard issues before throwing a whole new range of potential problems at your printer. Also, consider whether you actually need them. If you're printing PLA, there is zero benefit to an all-metal hotend (but there are downsides). Printed belt tensioners, cable chains and the like are useless. PLA deforms under tension, while metal obviously doesn't, so if you replace the stock pulley brackets with plastic ones, you are literally making your printer worse. Don't. Cable chains aren't actively bad as far as I can tell, but they don't actually do anything worthwhile, and they look pretty dumb, IMO. Spool holders are generally useless upgrades, but IIRC the Ender 3 mounts the spool on top of the frame. That's not really ideal - having all that mass above the frame can increase vibration and cause print artifacts. You don't need some super-duper-ultimate-best-ever-zero-g-frictionless spool holder, but it'd probably be worth printing something that will sit beside the printer.
  12. MoFo

    Bought a Printer!

    Word of warning: FDM printers have a much steeper learning curve, with exponentially more variables and failure points. The Photon slicer has 5 machine settings you can tweak; right now, I've got 100 options visible in Cura, and there are many more that are accessible from the menus. Learn to use the machine out of the box (as much as possible) before throwing a bunch of modifications at it. The two biggest problems I see from new users are underextrusion and bed level. Underextrusion typically stems from a gap between the bowden tube and nozzle in the hot end; the bowden *should* be perfectly flush and tight up against the nozzle, but there's a little bit of play in the pneumatic coupler so the bowden pulls back a millimetre or two before it's fully seated. There's a good explanation of the problem and how to fix it here: https://youtu.be/uKN0VOuul0o (the same guy has a bunch of good beginner videos for the CR-10 and Ender 3) Also, you will need to spend a frustrating amount of time levelling your bed. Note: bed levelling doesn't actually have much to do with being level; the biggest concern is having accurate spacing between your nozzle and the bed. Much like the Photon, the printer doesn't know where the bed actually is, it just starts where it *thinks* Z=0. The standard advice is to use a sheet of paper between the bed and nozzle and adjust the springs until you feel a bit of friction. That should get you close enough to start actually dialing it in, but it won't give you a truly accurate height, and can lead to adhesion problems (or even damage to the build surface). After you've levelled with paper, you should print off some bed level squares and check them with calipers to make sure it's accurate - if your first layer is set at .2mm, the plastic lines *should* be exactly .2mm thick, though +/- .025mm should be 'good enough'; if it's more than .05mm off, you'll want to adjust the bed height. An accurately calibrated bed level should give you smooth, straight, flat, even lines. If your first layer is rough on top, the nozzle is too close to the bed; if there are spaces between the lines, the nozzle is probably too far from the bed.
  13. MoFo

    AMK 1/48 F-14!!!

    Just an FYI... if anyone is a member of the AMK Facebook group and wants to share their photos without the risk of getting banned, PM me. I'd be happy to upload them so that everyone else can see.
  14. MoFo

    Questions About The Bandai Star Wars Kits

    The parts are very good. The overall level of detail is on par with the FM Star Wars kits, but Bandai's details are sharper. Good in box review of the Y-wing here: http://www.themodellingnews.com/2015/08/review-bandai-172nd-scale-btl-a4-y-wing.html Scale is difficult to answer. The details are all 'in scale' - they're not clunky of oversized - but the actual kits are a different size than the FM or old Ertl kits. As in, the 1/72 Bandai kit is physically larger than the 1/72 FM kit. See a comparison of the Vader TIE here: http://s21.photobucket.com/user/IronChefMoFo/library/kits/SW That said, the published, 'real' dimensions of the various vehicles have changed over the years, so it's hard to fault a kit's dimensions when the studio can't even keep things straight. Even the original props used different relative sizes for the miniatures and full sized props, and the miniatures were built to one scale (externally) but used a different scale figure inside. But basically, the Bandai kits are internally in-scale, and are in-scale to each other, but may look a little odd mixed in with another manufacturer's kits. Landing gear and canopies are good. They actually include two styles of canopy in most kits, both with and without glass. The version with glass lets you build the ship as it would be if it were 'real'; the version without glass is accurate to the actual miniatures made for the movies (so they didn't get any reflections from the studio lights). The parts are a press fit. Think something along the lines of Tamiya kit, just with bigger locating pins. Most snap together kits aren't crappy because they're snap together, they're just overall crappy kits. Bandai produce some of the best kits on the market, that just happen to be press-fit. The kits aren't pre-painted. The parts are typically injected in a colour that's close to the right shade, so young or casual modellers won't need to paint them, but you can always paint as desired, obviously. Bandai actually inject sprues in multiple colours, so even unpainted, they look surprisingly decent. They also do quite a bit of overmolding; as you can see in the TIE pics above, they moulded the core of the wing panels in black, then moulded the grey framing on top of this, so out of the box you get a one piece, two-tone part. They come with both stickers and water-slide decals. For casual modellers who don't want to paint, they include stickers. For serious modellers who want to paint and weather their builds, they include water-slide decals. Which kind of illustrates Bandai's overall philosophy, which is pretty similar to Tamiya's - they make it as easy as possible for the casual builder to enjoy and produce a decent result, while also giving experienced modellers an excellent starting point to take things as far as they want to go.
  15. MoFo

    Zero paints

    Yeah, the situation with Gravity has become... silly... in the past year. Apparently Splash are the new iteration of the 'official' Gravity in the US and I've read positive things about them, but YMMV. The short version now is, Zero is good everywhere (if you can get it), Gravity in Europe/from Spain is good; Splash from the US is probably good; Gravity in the US should probably be avoided. And if all else fails, you should be able to get an automotive paint store to mix you a touch-up jar of most paints, as long as you've got an official colour spec.