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About MoFo

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    Arise... again.

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  1. Ouch! So it sounds like 9 weeks is about average. That's not as bad as I'd feared.
  2. Does anyone happen to know the average surface shipping time for Lucky Models at the moment? They're currently listing 30 - 120 business days, which is a pretty wide spread. I want to order a few large kits to take advantage of their cheap flat rate right now, but I'd kind of like to get them this year...
  3. Heads-up: Amazon US has the Anycubic Photon marked down to $250 right now. It's an incredible bargain for a really capable printer (not perfect by any means, but impressive nonetheless) https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Assembled-Innovation-Off-line-Printing/dp/B078N2TSYS
  4. Finally figured out how to make the mast. My initial attempt was to pin together SLA printed sections, but I found that this warped over the length, which looked terrible: I tried an FDM print, which would have allowed me to do it in fewer sections, but the layers looked even worse, and the experiment turned out to be unusable garbage. It was also pretty brittle, and snapped during sanding. It occurred to me that I could (theoretically) beef it up with some sire or tubing inside to make it more rigid. THEN it occurred to me that I could do the same with the SLA print. So I re-worked the CAD to fit length of 2mm music wire, and ran a test print of that... ...which is pretty much perfectly straight: Another length of 3mm music wire gets glued to the back to simulate the conduit(?) there and to add more rigidity: Now I just have to tweak the gantries and everything will be ready for production printing. I have no idea how this was supposed to work in 'real life' since the top-most gantry is less than 18" wide (432mm), but hey, it looks cool! I'm also thinking of re-printing the fuselage in clear resin, so the windows can be masked off and given a smoke tint to add some depth and realism. Black-painted windows never seem to look as good.
  5. I stand by what I said. And the receipts are publicly available. But I'm not going to drive an excellent thread off topic over the subject.
  6. Size could be an issue, since the Fujimi kit is 1/50 scale. They'll be about 4% too small.
  7. Yep, that's the pic. Thanks. Ballast it is.
  8. 1:1. Figured a full sized round would make a cool display piece behind an A-10 model. Problem is, the references that turn up when searching for the rounds are largely the same blurry cutaway shots from some brochure, which aren't really clear, and are kind of contradictory. In some, it's depicted as extruded pellets; in others it's more like a spherical granule. The latter should be pretty straightforward - use some model railroad ballast - but the former probably means cutting hundreds of tiny lengths of plastic rod, so it's kind of my last resort.
  9. They're also not always (ahem) original. I know at least one decal manufacturer who was blindsided when the artwork they had bought from Jennings suddenly appeared in a Fundekals package. John, do you happen to have any good references on the RWR? If I can convince an aftermarket manufacturer to do a set of wheels, it might make an easy add-on to the set.
  10. I'm working on a cutaway of the GAU-8's ammunition (see: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2315826 ) and I'd like to add something to depict the propellant, but I'm finding mixed messages as to what it looks like. Some seem to suggest compressed pellets, others look more like granules. Any guidance as to what it should look like? Or even better, is there a similar-looking modelling material I could use? (and thank you Craig Sargent for making me look up the model in the first place! )
  11. I've printed them in both HIPS and PLA. HIPS is pretty much standard modelling styrene, so it handles the same way, and it's more temperature resistant and holds up to handling better, but the prints aren't quite as strong (the layers don't stick as well) and details on the base aren't as sharp, since it can't be cooled while printing (or else it warps). PLA is easier to print and prints cleaner (it can be heavily cooled while printing, for crisper detail), but it starts to deform at 60`C and it's a little brittle so it can crack if it gets dropped. PLA is mostly impervious to solvent glues (apparently it melts with chloroform), but it glues nicely with CA and epoxy. Standard putties, paints and primers work fine with either material, but I've taken to giving prints a coat of the UV resin from the Photon, as it goes on thin, self levels, cures instantly on UV exposure, and sands really, really nicely.
  12. Ron McGovney's '82 Garage Demo, apparently.
  13. Resin is printed with an Anycubic Photon. The FDM prints are done on a CR-10. The smoothness is a combination of low layer heights (.08mm, IIRC) and being run in vase mode, so it's one continuous spiral. It still needs a decent coat of filler primer to smooth out the layer lines, but yes, it's pretty good as-is. The pathways are already printed. I *have* printed the mast as well, but because of its geometry, it's prone to warping, so I'm not really happy with it. Have to figure out another solution for it. Maybe bump up the thickness a bit and try it on the FDM printer... Orange, actually. Which looks *exactly* like the processed cheese sauce from Kraft Dinner. 🤮 Though I might re-print the fuselage in clear, to give a sense of translucence to the windows. No Z-wobble. I'm running the printer with anti-aliasing, so I'm pretty sure the surface on the jack stands is a product of that, plus the pixel-stepping from the shallow angles. Instead of having a hard step between each pixel, it has a softer break, which looks a little like wobble. You can see that the other parts, like the exhausts, don't suffer the same effect.
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