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About MoFo

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    Arise... again.

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  1. I remember when people were complaining about the kit being constantly delayed and that it was never going to come out and how much they desperately wanted it. Sigh. Time flies.
  2. https://www.thestar.com/news/insight/2019/06/29/wee-the-north-the-obsessive-dreamers-behind-a-17-million-miniature-model-of-canada.html Saw this in my news feed this morning and thought some ARCers might be interested. A slightly different variety of scale modelling - someone is building a miniature world version of Canada, in the vein of Miniatur Wonderland and Gulliver's Gate. Looks pretty cool.
  3. Got distracted while cleaning my hobby space, decided I could do it bigger and better than the Glencoe kit, so spent a bit of time in SW designing a 1/144 kit. The shuttle and detail parts will be printed in resin; the rocket and base are FDM printed since they're large, simple shapes. If there's interest, I'll post pics of the prints and a test-fit when it's ready.
  4. Funny how the people who complain the most about how long and stupid this thread is are the ones who post all the off-topic crap.
  5. https://www.ponoko.com/photo-etching/metal And many more: https://www.google.com/search?ei=b7MLXeS8LeHh8APjoZzwAg&q=custom+photo+etch&oq=custom+photo+etch
  6. Title says it all, really. I've heard pros and cons for both. Is there a consensus as to which is the better kit?
  7. If you have something to say, say it. Stop linking to your blog.
  8. Except that, given the shared ownership of Lucky Model and Kinetic... it does. (j/k. it's a fair point) Interesting that they're not showing the wings or fuselage, let alone actual plastic, for a kit that's due within a month. In fact, they *seem* to have censored out the wing or pylon by the drop tank. Looks like they're moulding the nose gear doors in with the gear well sidewalls. I can see that as being divisive (it'll be easier to build and stronger, but makes painting a little more difficult) From the canopy locks and ring sticking out under the canopy, looks like it will come with PE in the box. ...and, knowing the previous tensions between AMK and Kinetic/Lucky Model, I wonder if releasing a kit within one month of announcement is an intentional reaction to the F-14 saga. Also, I wonder how many 'but what about muh C-17!!!!!11!!!' comments they're getting in their announcement post.
  9. Are you asking about the two-part polyester fillers (like Bondo), or one-part spot glazing putties, like 3M Acryl Green? If it's the one-part putties, they're functionally the same as standard model putty, so they can be thinned with hardware store lacquer thinner or acetone. If it's two-part polyester filler, apparently you can use acetone to thin them, though I'd be very careful and experiment first, as it would be easy to throw the chemistry way off. Also, I'm not sure I'd want to use it on standard polyurethane model resin, as it tends to cure quite hard, so you could have problems sanding the filler out.
  10. Yup. If you set it to 1s, the printer will take 6.5s. But the time in your slicer will be wrong. If you set it to 6.5s, the printer will take 6.5s. But the print time in your slicer will be pretty much exactly right. Which is handy for knowing how long you have left in your print.
  11. You've got that backwards. It would be throwing good money after bad to spend more money on upgrades for the old kit, rather than simply cutting your losses and buying the new, better kit. Hence the sunk cost fallacy - I've sunk so much money/time/thought into this project that I have to keep going with it, even though objectively I'd be much better off if I just moved on.
  12. https://youarenotsosmart.com/2011/03/25/the-sunk-cost-fallacy/
  13. Interesting. I've read a few comments saying the grey is tricky, which is weird, since their other opaques don't seem to be anywhere near as problematic - I've almost finished a litre of blue, and I've just been using the same settings as I did with clear green; I don't think I've had a single failed print. With this bottle almost finished though, I'm on the lookout for alternatives. Oh, and one thing to note with your settings... you should change the off time to 6.5 seconds. That's the actual minimum time it takes to raise and lower the build platform - even with it set at 1 second by default, it still takes 6.5 seconds to raise and lower - so using that value won't change your actual print time at all, but it will make the estimated print time in the slicer more accurate.
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