MoFo

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  1. Yeesh. Rough weekend for Red Bull aircraft.
  2. Apache are 8.50-10; Blackhawk are 26x10.0-11 Source: Michelin Aircraft Tire Engineering Guide https://www.jupitor.co.jp/pdf/michelin_aircraft.pdf
  3. It was posted elsewhere recently, but it's pretty apt here. There's a reason why Tom Cleaver has been banned from every discussion board he's posted on.
  4. Was it buried in the sand? That's where you can usually find them.
  5. Good point. Gunze's PS290 is basically an HP-TH, minus the air valve under the front. As for where to buy... HLJ, Lucky Model, eBay, Amazon (most of the vendors on Amazon are from Japan)
  6. No experience with those two brushes, but I will say, if you're going to buy an Iwata, buy it from Japan. It will be MUCH cheaper than US sources - and up to 1/3 the price of the equivalent Grex.
  7. 1 - it *should* be fine, assuming it's been stored in normal conditions. If it's been crusted in paint, or you left it full of solvents, or used harsh chemicals previously, or left it sitting out in a tropical jungle or something, it may be a little rough, but assuming it's just been sitting in a box somewhere, there shouldn't be much wrong with it. It would probably be worth doing a teardown so you can take a look at the gaskets - are they soft and pliant or stiff and brittle - but they're a cheap, easy replacement if you see any problems. 2 - Depends. If your compressor doesn't have any way to regulate air, then yes, you'll want a regulator. A moisture trap's usefulness depends on your climate - if you're in Arizona, no; if you're in Florida, yes. You'll be able to add *some* kind of moisture trap to any setup, whether it threads on between the compressor and your air hose, or it's in-line in the hose. 3 - Any airbrush can be made to work for any task, with practice, skill and technique. So from that sense, your brush is fine. Apart from that, it's mostly down to personal preference and the *specific* way you want to use your brush. And it's hard to determine that when you're starting out. The VL is a good, general purpose brush and you certainly don't *need* to replace it. I'd suggest waiting, figuring out the ways in which you want to use the brush, then deciding if the VL is up to the job, or whether you'd be better off getting another brush.
  8. It would also help to prick a couple of holes with a sharp pin. It will let the air escape and allow a bit of decal sol to flow under the decal, making it more pliant.
  9. God, Justified was such an amazing series.
  10. Hey @SBARC isn't it against the forum rules to create multiple accounts? http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/profile/24361-jinmmydel/ (I'd be digging into some seriously sock-puppet looking accounts, too...)
  11. Actual airplane: see how the spine and engine bulges start to blend in front of the small access panel? (top corner of the 'N' in Navy). It actually starts around the 'W' in Midway. See how, by the time you get back to the panel line between the 'F' and the '-' in VF-21, the sharp crease has blended out to a smooth, shallow curve. And it's fully blended by the panel line running through the 'Y' in Navy ZM kit: now compare those same three points on the model The blend starts behind the small access panel. It actually starts just ahead of that panel between the F and -. And it still has a noticeable crease at the 'Y' panel line. The ZM kit is, overall, very good. It's not perfect, and it can be improved upon.
  12. Srsly?
  13. That's really going to vary on a case-by-case basis. The short version is: different rubbers suited to specific parts (softer rubbers for major undercuts; firmer rubbers for simpler parts). Gang casting so you can get many parts out of a single mold (you cast 20 copies of your master, then make your mold from those 20 copies, so you can cast 20 parts at a time). Carefully setting up your master so it will cast more easily. And exploiting the properties of rubber - you can make small slits to help with extraction without having much visual impact on the part, for instance. But most detail parts will be done in 1-part molds. Also, FWIW but RTV molds will have much shorter lives than you'd think. For a really detailed part with severe undercuts, it might be closer to 5 castings. For simpler/smoother parts, 20 is probably on the high end. Although that depends in part on what the caster feels is acceptable - one person might be okay with some detail loss; another may not. http://www.detailscaleview.com/2015/12/eduard-novemberfest-2015.html has some interesting photos and videos of Eduard's resin casting process - you can see some moulds, and some video of how they do it. Things will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and set to set, but it should give a decent feel for some of the basics. Also, these:
  14. DACO will suggest using the Hasegawa kit, as the decals were designed 20+ years before the GWH kit came out. Although for an F-15, it really doesn't matter - the only decal that comes close to being 'kit specific' will be the bands at the tips of the tail, and they're *really* unlikely to be different enough to cause a problem. Hasegawa added featherless exhausts in the mid-90's. They've been included in most releases (every version that requires them) since then.