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MoFo

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    Arise... again.

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  1. You might want to re-read his post.
  2. MoFo

    Bought a Printer!

    Your settings will have to be calibrated for every different brand and colour of resin, as well as different layer thicknesses.
  3. MoFo

    AMK 1/48 F-14!!!

    👏 Hobby 👏 Easy 👏 doesn't 👏 know 👏 the 👏 release 👏 date 👏 they're 👏 just 👏 keeping 👏 the 👏 listing 👏 active. 👏 We go through this every other month when Hobby Easy updates their pre-order listing to some new random date in the future. It's meaningless. They don't have any secret information about when the kit is being released. They probably know less than you do about the kit's progress and release. They're just changing the date so that the pre-order is for some future release date, because it would look ridiculous if their pre-order page still said the kit was due 30 May, 2017.
  4. MoFo

    Small diameter bomb and BRU-61

    Why? IPMS doesn't judge accuracy, so if you're hoping it would trip them up, you'd be wasting your time.
  5. MoFo

    AMK 1/48 F-14!!!

    Well that, and the fact that this thread is now more than three years old. It averages out to just a couple of posts per day. It's just that, it's been a lot of days.
  6. MoFo

    Bought a Printer!

    No, you need to use some form of UV to fully cure the parts once they're out of the printer and cleaned. The printer only partially cures the resin - enough to print a solid object, but not the full chemical reaction. It needs another blast of UV light to finish the curing process. Doesn't really matter *how* - you can do it with UV LEDs, or the sun, or a full-spectrum fluorescent tube - but it will need more UV light to fully cure the resin. Those fingernail curing devices are a popular option, but it would also be easy to make your own with UV LEDs and some sort of box.
  7. MoFo

    Modelcollect B-52H

    Small thing to note: the correct term is strakelet. If they need to do more research to correct the parts, they might have more luck with that spelling.
  8. MoFo

    3D printers

    It's not so much that it's a specialist topic (I mean, it is, and we're specifically talking niche use of a niche product...), it's that the machines themselves still haven't matured and are not user friendly. Most people have the unfortunate impression that 3D printers are some Star Trek Replicator-like magical device, when the reality is that they aren't. There are just a ton of variables that the user has to learn, understand and constantly tweak, and any small change in one area can mean you have to completely re-adjust all of your settings. For instance, with an FDM printer, if you try a new brand of filament, you will have to tweak temperature and flow settings; even using a different colour from the same brand, or a different production batch of the same colour may need you to adjust those settings. And if you move to a different material - say from PLA to ABS or HIPS or PETG, you're basically re-learning to use your printer from scratch, and troubleshooting a whole new range of issues. With a DLP printer, you're doing pretty much the same thing with resin cure times - every brand, colour and bottle needs to be calibrated - how long is your base layer cure time, how long is your normal layer cure time. And then re-calibrate for different layer thicknesses, because the numbers aren't the same for a 20 micron layer and a 50 micron layer.
  9. MoFo

    Bought a Printer!

    Just to make life more difficult, Creality (another popular brand) announced their first DLP printer last week, too. Though I'd strongly suggest waiting a few months before looking at one - Creality tends to revise/improve during production (sort of like the D7, except without actual, official Versions). In fact, I suspect we'll see a flood of clones in the next year or so, as everyone rips off the basic phablet-LCD-as-UV-mask design. Also worth noting, Prusa are widely reported to be working on some form of resin printer. If it's anywhere near production, there should be some announcements at NY maker faire in late September.
  10. MoFo

    3D printers

    An FDM printer won't give you acceptable results printing detail parts for a model kit. You would need either a DLP or SLA printer. DLP printers start at around $500 but have small build envelopes (they use a smartphone screen as a mask); SLA printers start at around $1500 and are sized in between DLP and FDM printers. For either a DLP or SLA printer, you're looking at $50 - 100/L for resin, plus other consumables (build films, resin tanks, LCDs and the like). In order to print anything, you'll spend dozens of hours designing each individual part in CAD. And in order to design a detailed part for a model kit, you'll spend hundreds of hours learning whatever CAD package you use. I would strongly suggest doing some research to understand what different 3D printing technologies are out there, what each process actually entails and what kind of results you can plausibly expect with an inexpensive home-use printer.
  11. MoFo

    3D printers

    What, specifically, do you want to make, though. If you want to make detail parts, like cockpits, wheels or engines, then an FDM printer like the Ender 3 really isn't suited to the task; you'd be far better off with an SLA or DLP printer. If you want to make larger components, like fuselage parts, that will be possible, but you won't really be able to resolve any fine surface detail - you'd need to scribe any panel lines after it's printed. The Ender 3 is a good entry-level machine - for a novice printer, I'd say that, the Monoprice Mini (smaller, but fully pre-assembled) and the Prusa Mk2.5 or Mk3 (more expensive, but better components) are the only machines worth considering unless there's a specific requirement that makes you consider something else (if you need bigger, get a CR-10, for instance). HOWEVER. Any 3D printer you buy is a hobby unto itself, and this is particularly true at the budget end. It's not an appliance that you plug in and press start; there's a steep learning curve to using them, to troubleshooting the many problems you'll experience along the way, and to tweaking and wrenching on them to keep them functioning. As an analogy, it's not like buying a computer in 2018, where you plug it in and go check out facebook; it's like buying a computer kit in 1978, where you need to be able to diagnose which specific chip, capacitor or diode is acting up, and fix the problems with the code you're trying to run. It's rewarding when it works well, and it's an enjoyable hobby, but it does take quite a bit of effort. I'd also note that the cost of the printer is just the price of entry. Particularly with a budget machine, you'll quickly find there are things you want to upgrade - new fans and vibration dampers are two big ones, to quiet the machine down; a new hotend to print ABS, HIPS and PETG; a bed leveling sensor; a Raspberry Pi and webcam for Octoprint, etc. etc. Don't get me wrong, it's a fun and rewarding hobby, and you can do some cool, impressive stuff with home printers. But most people have a pretty warped idea of what to expect, so it's worth adjusting your expectations to better reflect reality.
  12. MoFo

    3D printers

    What do you want to make? What is your budget? What technology are you looking at? What effort are you willing to put in to using it? Resolution... is complicated. No matter what the technology, you will have separate resolutions for the X/Y (horizontal) and Z (vertical) axes. (if you think in terms of a conventional printer, X/Y is like the resolution you print on the paper, while Z is the thickness of the paper). Z-axis resolution probably shouldn't be your main concern; it's a simple relationship between stepper motor resolution (how many steps per revolution) and screw pitch, and at this point, any printer can run thin layers. The more significant figure will be X/Y resolution, and specifically minimum feature size, which is determined by beam width, screen resolution or nozzle diameter, and will determine how detailed each individual layer can be. Build volume will be a combination of technology and price. Within each specific technology class, smaller will usually be cheaper, but the standard sizes will vary between technologies - what's typical for a DLP printer would be miniscule for an FDM printer. Height is an issue inasmuch as the printer will come with a set of Z-axis rails/screws/bearings/V-slot/whatever, but there isn't actually any real limiting factor for height - if you want a taller printer, you can simply install longer components (assuming the printer's firmware is open-source enough to let you do so). Heated beds are only relevant to FDM printers, and they're pretty ubiquitous on them at this point. If you're looking at getting a printer as a hobby, any of the printers that are worth considering will have one.
  13. Thank you, Slartibartfarst. (I've been wanting to post that for years! ) Quick bump in case anyone else is closer. If not, I'll take you up on your offer.
  14. Hoping someone would be willing to pick a couple of items up and ship them to me. PM for details.
  15. MoFo

    Bought a Printer!

    Heads up for anyone in the US, UK, Germany, Italy, Spain or Japan: Anycubic will be running a sale for Amazon Prime day - 20% off the Photon. So it will be about $430, which is a pretty great deal. Better yet, it doesn't look like you actually need to have a Prime account - its just a coupon code - so there's a chance that anyone (in those countries) can take advantage of the offer. More details (specific dates, times and codes) on their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/anycubic3dprinter/videos/396300070776121/
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