MoFo

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About MoFo

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    Arise... again.

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  1. With all due respect, I would suggest that unless you know what you're looking for, and why, and unless you are already designing and printing stuff regularly, it's probably not a good idea to invest in a 3D printer. Good printers are expensive, the technology is evolving steadily, and for the price of one printer that will rapidly become obsolete, you can have a lot of prints run by a professional service on a professional machine If you want to start 3D printing as a separate hobby - a very different thing from using it as a tool in your scale modelling hobby - that's another matter. But if you're coming at it from a position of, "I've heard about these 3D printers and they sound pretty cool, which one should I buy," you're almost certainly going to be massively disappointed and incredibly frustrated by the learning curve. That said... 3D printing isn't a single technology. There are many different styles of printer that work in fundamentally different ways. Most are ill-suited to most modelling uses. Any printer that looks like this: Or this: Will have extremely limited use for most modellers. You can print rough shapes that will require an enormous amount of surface prep, but fine detail is basically nonexistent. Printers that look like this: Or this: Can be used for finely detailed parts, but they are far more expensive to buy ($3000+), and vastly more expensive to run (higher consumables costs). They also have a more limited build volume, and are difficult and temperamental to use. ---- In terms of software... are you asking about modelling software, or slicers? Modelling sofware is like an airbrush - some are a little better suited to some tasks than others, but they're all generally pretty usable - it's more about learning to use the tool you have, rather than trying a bunch of different tools to find the magic bullet. If you want to do more sculptural stuff, it would help to use something geared more to 3D/digital sculpting, like ZBrush, Rhino or 3ds Max; if you want to do more geometric drafting/CAD, you probably want something more like Inventor/SketchUp/Solidworks... but other than that, it's mostly about practice and learning.
  2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subscription_boxes Basically, you pay a sum of money for a business to send you a box of items every month. Typically the purpose is either to sample new things you may be interested in (like a food-of-the-month club), or to get regular, convenient deliveries of frequently consumed items (diaper services or shave clubs).
  3. So you're saying I should look at Ikea, then? :) I don't care that the batteries are made in China. My concern is that a significant proportion of the lipos being sold on eBay are low-quality cells. Whether they're re-selling factory rejects or mislabelling lower capacity cells, I don't know, but they do have a reputation for under-delivering. If there *was* a well known brand I could stick to, I'd be happy. It's the roll-the-dice aspect I'm concerned about. And having to wait two months for replacements if the ones I order *do* suck. But, point taken. I'll go the Powerboost route. Thanks for the advice.
  4. So that's where that went. Geez, it seems so obvious now, doesn't it?
  5. LOL. This is actually an effort to work around a 1000C. :D That was actually my original plan (using a powerboost). The problem is that, like I said, I want 5000 - 10,000mAh of battery, and places like Sparkfun and Adafruit max out at 2500mAh. So the only option is lipo cells from China, bought off eBay, but they have a pretty poor reputation - sellers vastly overstate their capacity, or the cells are low quality and degrade quickly, etc. Much like 3rd party cell phone batteries. I don't want to buy a "10,000mAh battery" only to find out the actual capacity is closer to 2000mAh, then have it crap out on me a month from now. Also, I do need a pouch form factor, so 18650's and 14500's are out. I can buy an Anker or Xiaomi power bank and know I'm getting reliable batteries. And by using the power bank's charge circuit, I eliminate the cost of the powerboost, which is a nice bonus. It would be nice if I could just rip the batteries out of a power bank, since they're the perfect form factor and capacity, but they cells themselves won't have a charge protection circuit (it's integrated on the PCB) and I do not want to solder directly to the cell itself. Sigh. The more I think about it, the more I think I should just bite the bullet and buy a battery off eBay, and hope for the best. :( And FWIW, when I asked for input on a different forum, I got an even more Rube Goldberg solution - use the power bank to re-charge the 2000mAh lipo running through a powerboost 1000C. So, mains -> power bank -> power boost -> lipo -> power boost -> device, and going from 5V -> 3.7V -> 5V -> 3.7V -> 5V. :)
  6. Well I was hoping to do this via PM since it's *wildly* off topic, but okay... I'm building a Raspberry Pi handheld device. I want to run it off a cell phone power bank to get a decent battery life (I need 5000 - 10000mAh flat pouch li-po cells, can't source them locally at a decent enough price and don't want to roll the dice on cheap cells from China, since they've got a sketchy reputation for short lifespans and false mAh ratings). The power banks I'm looking at don't support pass-through charging; most automatically shut off battery out once power in is detected, so I can't just plug the device in and use it while it charges. The ones that *do* have pass-through don't input enough current to charge the battery AND run the device at the same time anyway, and since the input is limited, with the device on I'd just be drawing down the battery more slowly. So my plan is to have a 3-way switch, so I can select between battery power, battery charge, and mains power. So, switch to the left, it runs off battery; switch in the middle, I can plug it in and re-charge; switch on the right, I can plug it in and run it off A/C (through a USB cell charger). The Pi is 5V/1A. The screen will run off 5V/1A, so I figure 5V/2.5A should work, factoring in power connections and a few ancillary components (audio amp, etc.) So, not *major* currents in terms of 'somebody's going to die if this goes wrong', but the Pi and screen probably can't handle much over-voltage, and I don't want to wreck them. And backfeeding the lipo cell could be a bad thing, I'd imagine. In terms of a circuit, I'm thinking something along the lines of this: (the lipo cell is a stand-in for the power bank since there aren't any banks in the Fritzing library; it's got a USB out and a USB in, so just imagine the power bank's charge circuit is between the battery and USB connectors) So basically, three questions: a.) will this work; b.) should I be looking at SPTT or DPTT slide switches (assuming it will work) and c.) am I over-thinking this and I should just go with an eBay lipo pouch after all...
  7. You mean you don't think it's still relevant that some PM's went missing seven years ago? What if some long-lost member finally returns home after being stranded on a deserted island in a plane crash, logs on to the site for the first time this decade, so they can reply to the private message they received just before that fateful day, only to find that it's disappeared? How are they going to know what happened? I mean, his wife has married someone else, and he has lost the volleyball that kept them company all those years. Don't you think Tom Hanks has been through enough already? The least we can do is keep a sticky so he knows where his PMs went.
  8. Not really an airliner, but... The B/BS is the earlier model aircraft. The most prominent difference is the ordnance: R-40 and R-60 missiles and associated pylons. It also has analog instruments in the cockpit. This version can be built as a late-Soviet or Russian aircraft, or a Kazakh AF jet. The BM/BSM is a modernized version. It comes with R-73 and R-77 missiles and pylons. It also has digital instrument panels. It can only be built as a Russian aircraft - the modernization program started in 2010, with a few aircraft trickling through each year. In terms of other differences... The BM/BSM, kit #88003 was released first, so it's sort of the 'baseline' kit. The B/BS. kit #88008 was released next, and AMK added a second copy of the clear parts, with a yellow tint. They added seatbelts and a radar to the PE fret (though the radar isn't strictly accurate), and added instrument panel decals and canopy seals to the decal sheet. Then they released the BM/BSM 'deluxe edition', kit #88003-S, which included the additional tinted canopy (plus the clear), updated PE fret (with belts and radar) and updated decals (instrument panels and canopy seals), as well as die cast landing gear and pitot probe. They also released the 'extras' as an 'upgrade kit', #88003-U, for the initial BM/BSM release - so you could add the tinted canopy, revised PE, revised decals and die cast gear to your BM/BSM if it didn't have them. Lastly, they released *just* the die cast landing gear and pitot, kit #88003-8, so you could add these to your B/BS if you choose (since it already has the various updates). So, in terms of which version to buy, if you want a Soviet or Kazakh jet, get the B/BS, and the die cast landing gear if you want those parts. If you want the most modern version, get a BM/BSM; if you want all the extras, you can look for the deluxe edition kit, or the basic kit and the 'upgrade kit'; if you don't want the tinted canopy/pe belts/IP decals or metal landing gear, you're fine with just the basic BM/BSM kit.
  9. I'm trying to sort out a power circuit, so I can have something run off battery, recharge the battery, or run off a wall socket. Hoping there's an electrician who can check my wiring diagram and make sure it'll work - I don't want to backfeed any of the circuits, or fry the components. :D
  10. Well, the MiG-25 was supposed to be one of four (five?) new 1/48 subjects released in 2016, too. So the simple answer is, they've been a little over-ambitious in announcing their schedule, and while it would be great if they manage to pull it off, there's a good chance it won't make the published release date, so don't set your expectations too high. Sort of. AMK *are* the factory. They were a tooling shop that decided to get into the plastic model business after tooling some kits for another manufacturer. So they seem to have bumped themselves, because a(n external) paying customer has higher priority. But my hunch is, it's probably not done and just waiting to be installed in the presses. AMK have a fairly well established practice of posting Facebook updates as their projects hit major milestones. It's effective marketing, as it builds anticipation and enthusiasm, and it lets consumers feel like they have an inside track; but it also lets you gauge progress. And they haven't posted anything to suggest they've started cutting molds, let alone completed them. In fact, they haven't even posted anything to suggest they've completed design work on the kit. And while it's possible they've decided to completely change their policy and no longer provide substantive updates - maybe they've decided to ape Tamiya and just wait until the kit's ready to release, or maybe it's due to the health issues Martin was dealing with - going by past practices it seems more likely that they're still somewhere in the development or tooling stage. TL;DR: it's really hard to meet production deadlines on complicated projects, and even harder to meet them when the deadlines are optimistic. The kits will get here when they get here, so it's probably best not to get hung up on 'are we there yet', because its going to take some time. Build your stash and be excited when they DO hit the shelves.
  11. Any good references out there? Schematics/measured drawings? Or at least, relatively unskewed front view/side view/rear view photos?
  12. Yes, the bare plastic needs to be highly polished under MM Metalizers. As for re-coating, it shouldn't make a difference. You'll end up with a thicker film of paint, but it won't be any shinier.
  13. Blender isn't really CAD though, it's 3D Modeling. Works differently from the parametric drafting of Solidworks/Inventor/Sketchup, etc.
  14. Somewhere in general discussion in the last couple of weeks. Thread title was something like 'Japanese how its made' or similar.
  15. You should definitely get the tires. They're far and away the best part.