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Hi, an oil wash is used to bring out the surface details (especially useful when the panel lines are recessed). Future helps create a glossy surface so the oil wash does not stain large surfaces. Instead, the wash simply flows into the recessed lines and rivets. The glossy surface allows the excess oil wash to be simply wiped off when after a few hours, while keeping the wash in the details. An oil wash is prepared by mixing oil-based paints (like the ones you have) with a lot of enamel (not acrylic, not lacquer) thinner. Turpentine, mineral spirits, lighter fluid etc. can be used as the thinning agent.

Side note: I am really happy to see how enthusiastic you are about modeling and that you want to learn as much as possible. One thing I noticed though is that you seem to start many topics on questions you can find answers to very easily through google. I am just curious whether you can't find answers to your questions by doing a little bit of research in these forums or on google. This topic is one example (tons of youtube videos if you search). I really mean this sincerely, I think you can find much richer resources (videos, pictures etc) to your questions much more efficiently if you did a little bit of search.

Edited by Janissary
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Okay let me describe how I do this. I am sure it is not the only way but it works for me. I use an oil wash to highlight panel detail and to add grime in places where it seems appropriate.

Not sure what brand of oil paint I use but burnt sienna is my go to.

You will also need a small can of turpenoid. It can be found at Michaels, AC Moore or any art store.

I mix the oil paint and the turpenoid in a small mixing jar. This is a really unscientific process for me. I add some turpenoid and then some paint and vice versa until I get the consistency I want. More paint will give you a darker wash and less will make it more subtle.

I always apply my washes over a lacquer flat coat such as Floquil Figure Flat or Testors Dullcote. I tried Future but I couldn't get the capillary action to spread the wash along panel lines with future. I have not tried this technique over a gloss lacquer because I usually alow my glossy aircraft to be clean.

The wash mixture will not attack the lacquer coat so you can generally wipe off any mistakes you might make. I usally apply the wash once I have decaled and sealed the decals in with a coat or two of lacquer. This allows the decals to look weathered like the rest of the airframe.

Once the lacquer coat is dry simply load a small brush with wash and touch it to the panel line you want to highlight. Capillary action will pull the wash along the line and into surrounding lines if you touched to a point where panel lines intersect. If it does not draw into the entire length of the line then simply use the same technique further along the panel line until the wash has been drawn into its full length.

Work in sections and take your time. It will look messy at first with small dots of wash in some places where you touch the brush to the model. This is ok. Once you have allowed the wash set a little (maybe 5 to 10 minutes) take a Q-tip or paper towel and wipe away the extra wash. If it does not come off then you can moisten the paper towel or Q-tip with thinner and wipe the excess away. Always wipe in the direction of airflow over the airframe. This way any subtle streaking that is left will look like streaked dirt. For the fuselage you can also wipe in the direction that rain might flow off of the airframe.

Once you are done you can seal in the work with another lacquer coat or simply let it dry.

I would practice or a kit you don't so much care about first but you will pick it up easy once you start doing it.

Hope that helps.

Zach

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For use on a gloss (or plain-matte) acrylic or future coating, I use clear mineral spirits not any kind of turp just preference- if it's a milky color TAKE IT BACK. The White stuff has water in it screws with the finishes. EXPERIMENT. Play - this can be fun. :)/>

Also future will not sit on top off of an oil was BTW...Big mess. I agree the dumbest question is the one you don't ask. I have some guys on here that I bug the living Poop out of. They are awesome.

Look on here for a while look at the builders who build and paint like you want your stuff to look like. PM them. You will be AMAZED at how nice and giving these gentlemen are with their knowledge.

Also look and follow builds. A wealth of info on "Out2GetYa"'s foiled B-25 build thread is one that springs to mind.

We should have some pinned build threads...

Edited by DaneBramage
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Hi, an oil wash is used to bring out the surface details (especially useful when the panel lines are recessed). Future helps create a glossy surface so the oil wash does not stain large surfaces. Instead, the wash simply flows into the recessed lines and rivets. The glossy surface allows the excess oil wash to be simply wiped off when after a few hours, while keeping the wash in the details. An oil wash is prepared by mixing oil-based paints (like the ones you have) with a lot of enamel (not acrylic, not lacquer) thinner. Turpentine, mineral spirits, lighter fluid etc. can be used as the thinning agent.

Side note: I am really happy to see how enthusiastic you are about modeling and that you want to learn as much as possible. One thing I noticed though is that you seem to start many topics on questions you can find answers to very easily through google. I am just curious whether you can't find answers to your questions by doing a little bit of research in these forums or on google. This topic is one example (tons of youtube videos if you search). I really mean this sincerely, I think you can find much richer resources (videos, pictures etc) to your questions much more efficiently if you did a little bit of search.

I used to do lots of research (I backed off when the school year started to focus on the essential things). It always feels better when you talk with people.

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For use on a gloss (or plain-matte) acrylic or future coating, I use clear mineral spirits not any kind of turp just preference- if it's a milky color TAKE IT BACK. The White stuff has water in it screws with the finishes. EXPERIMENT. Play - this can be fun. :)/>/>

Also future will not sit on top off of an oil was BTW...Big mess. I agree the dumbest question is the one you don't ask. I have some guys on here that I bug the living Poop out of. They are awesome.

Look on here for a while look at the builders who build and paint like you want your stuff to look like. PM them. You will be AMAZED at how nice and giving these gentlemen are with their knowledge.

Also look and follow builds. A wealth of info on "Out2GetYa"'s foiled B-25 build thread is one that springs to mind.

We should have some pinned build threads...

Does this mean that future should not be painted on top of an oil wash?

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Does this mean that future should not be painted on top of an oil wash?

Future will absolutely work on top of an oil wash, I've done it. But...my typical order for flat painted aircraft is:

Paint

Future

Decals

Future

Wash

Flat Coat

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Hey ACE, I'll "third" the above. Here are some points to keep in mind:

1. When you use Future to seal your decals, make sure that you put on enough Future, so your wash won't "outline" your decals, but don't put on so much that you flood your detail such as rivets and panel lines. Like everything else, it just takes some practice. And yes, you can use Future before and after using oil paints as a wash.

2. When you mix your wash, for starters, you want it to look pretty much like coffee. In other words, you don't want thinned paint, you want tinted thinner. I use Turpenoid to thin oil paints, but like a couple of the other guys said, it's a matter of personal preference.

3. Oil paints take a lot longer to dry than other paints. Keep that in mind. You will have to keep the model in a "dust-free" zone while it dries. I use a plastic storage container. I used to take a large cardboard box that's at least a third larger than the model and clean. Right before placing it over the model, spray the inside with Windex, or simply mist is with water. It will settle any dust that's floating around inside.

4. Some modelers swear by oil washes, because that's the way washing models started out. I use mostly water based washed. I use Flory's washes. Also, Google "Sludge Wash" and that will give you a very inexpensive way to apply a water based wash. But, since you have already bought some oil paints, give them a try. I have a couple of tubes of oil paint. They last forever if you keep the lids on snug.

Good Luck!!!

Edited by balls47
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