laskodi

The clear and white decal paper, and the fixative spray that comes in the kit are very high quality and very useful. The software that comes with it is basically a "demo" version that is trying to get you to buy the "real" version and is next to useless, IMNSHO. HTH -----Bob

A real beauty! Great job! -----Bob

Mr Color Metallic paints are all supposed to be buffed to a shine. If you don't buff them, every time you touch it some of the pigment will come off onto your fingers. A word of caution, you can actually buff the paint all the way off the plastic so don't "over buff", and even after buffing, small amounts of pigment will still come off when touched. They are very fragile, and can not be masked upon, even with Tamiya masking tape. I've used Metalizer Sealer and Future to "seal" the finish with good results to prepare the surface for decaling. Personally, this is the only line of Gunze lacquer p

Can't speak for Tamiya's metal primer (never used it), but Tamiya's Surface Primer for Plastic & Metal is absolutely one of the best primers out there for plastic, but doesn't stick worth a darn to metal! So it's great for plastic but sucks on metal! YMMV -------Bob

Thanks to all for the kind words. It's mostly OOB, with PE instruments, seat belts, control horns, and fabric stiching being the only added items. I sure wish I had a set of PE Spandaus on it! A rake brush is a specialty brush that can sometimes be found at good art stores. Think of a rake, in that the brush filaments are spread apart, just like the rake in your garage. They are also called comb brushes and the same visual clue exists for that! A bit tough to find, but they are invaluable for special effects, in particular the "streaky" look often found on many WWI aircraft. HTH ------Bob

This new kit from Roden has got to be one of the easiest WWI models I ever built! Some minor fit issues (all easily taken care of with a little dry fitting), a little flash (not much), a few "pebbly"/rough spots of plastic (requiring a little sanding), and fairly good engineering make this a great build for someone wanting to build their first WWI model. Everything about this kit is good (accuracy, decals, buildability, etc) so go out and buy a bunch. Highly recommended! The streaky Fokker finish was done by airbrushing Gunze Sail Color (lacquer) as the base coat and using Model Master (MM) R

I agree 100% with Randy's comments. Well, just about anything is buildable! I built mine about two years ago, and fit problems abound on every join. You'll be using a lot of putty on this one! All panel lines are raised, lots of flash requiring clean-up, and detail is "soft", just like most other short run kits! But if you want a C47 in this scale it's the only game in town! HTH -----Bob

ERRRRMMMMM, the post was started on 1 December, and the question about panel lines got asked on 20 December. For one, I don't always follow the threads about my models, and usually not more than two weeks later. Second, many of you will note that 20 December is during the XMAS holidays and I was gone from the 18th on, so I would not have seen it. If you have a question, it's best to shoot me a PM as I may not see a question in the forum. Now to answer the question, you may be interested in this article I wrote at: http://modelingmadness.com/others/features...laskodiwash.htm HTH ------Bob

"Spider-webbing" is very common when airbrushing Mr Surfacer. The only solution is to add more thinner until it sprays cleanly. I start with a 1:1 mix of Mr Surfacer 1200 and Mr Color Thinner and add more thinner as needed. Mr Surfacer is not that good as a "covering coat" type primer, as it goes on very thin (to not obscure detail), and it's main benefit is as an easily sandable covering that builds up quite nicely to cover flaws/irregularities. It does work as a primer coat, but there are better products out there that do this job. HTH -----Bob

I never spray directly from the aerosol can, and I always decant and spray through my airbrush. You just do not have the control with a "spray bomb" as you have with the airbrush, and even though I use Tamiya primers (the absolute best for plastic) I still decant from the can into my airbrush cup. BTW, Tamiya has just released a bottled version of their primer and it's the bee's knee's! That being said, most every red is not every opaque, and if you want color consistency you must prime the model first. If you can't afford the Tamiya primers, use any paint you'd like, as long as it's flat. Pic

Thanks to all for the very kind words on my Hornet. The decals are OOB and are pretty nice. Hase is making great strides with quality of their decals in recent releases. The box top contains a real picture of the aircraft, a picture of this bird that I hadn't seen before, and Hase has faithfully reproduced the colors and scheme to match. The blue shade on the decals do match fairly well with the box top photo, but I'm still not sure if the blue is a bit too light. I know virtually nothing about modern jets, so someone else should chime in here, but based on the pics that Ken posted , it does

Krylon primer is a fantastic primer, but......., warning, warning, warning, the solvent used is quite "hot" and will craze plastic if you apply it too heavily. I would recommend decanting from the aerosol can to be sprayed on by your air brush, which has more control than the can. If you do spray from the can, use very light mist coats, let it dry bewten coats, and build up your coats slowly and carefully. HTH ------Bob