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Matt Walker

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Everything posted by Matt Walker

  1. Getting there, slowly....... TwoBobs decs, with a big help from Dave Aungsts article. THANKS mate!
  2. Included an Aires burner in this build, 1/48 of course....
  3. Another, Hasegawa kit with TwoBobs decals.
  4. Hope this works, More to follow if it does.....
  5. Now let me get this straight...... You started using Corel Draw yesterday, and you're already drawing stuff? Man I must be dumb, or you're a wiz, 'cos I couldn't make top or bottom of it after a few days...... Fotunatley, Istvan Illes came to my rescue. (pictures to come soon..) Completely jealous of you success, Matthew
  6. Hey Darren, Nice work on the Tomcat. Did you re-scribe it? If not, how did you do the panels? Thanks Matthew
  7. Hey all, wondering if I may add my voice to the throng? Project is Hasegawa 1/48 F-14A done as the NSAWC Splinter cat Cheers Matthew
  8. G'day! Even before priming, it is worth cleaning the plastic to ensure there is no grease or oil that may prevent adhesion. I don't usually prime, use what ever type of paint that gives me the colour I need (inc acrylic), and don't suffer from "paint lift" after masking. Wash the kit parts in soapy water before you start any work, and then once all the assembly is complete, give it a light wipe with metho or denatured alcohol (what ever its called in your part of the world) Then continue to spray as usual. You shouldn't have any problems with your paint again if things are kept clean. Ch
  9. G'day Istvan, Hey thanks for the offer! I'll see what i can do a bit later tonight.... will send via email. Thanks Matthew
  10. What's the best way? I've got atrial version of Coreldraw 12, but it's a rather complicated program (well for me at least ) Is there aporgram that will take an image and convert it to a usable image for printing? (This one needs to be corrected for the curvature of the F-16's intake, can this be done?) TIA Matthew
  11. I'd like to make a copy of this:-
  12. G'day! Thanks to Gary for taking and posting the pics above. Greatly appreciated! The model is Monograms OA-4M, with Hasegawa undercart (again, thanks to Gary) DACT pod, centre tank and outer pylons. Decals came from the Hobbycrap "Aggressor" A-4E. (The decs are DEFINATELY the best thing in that box!) Colours were mixed to atch the one photo I have of this bird, and sprayed freehand. the conversion involved cutting off the hump and other bumps, and scratch building the new deck. the canopy is a slightly modified kit item. Cheers Matthew
  13. G'day! Nice build, well done on the re-scribing, you have more patience than I. Would love to do some F-5's, but can't bring myself to cut them. Are you going to dirty the model up a bit? There were soem shots of these ex-aggressor jets in an Airforces Monthly mag a while ago. They get pretty grubby! Cheers Matthew
  14. g'day, I'll answer for Gary, if I may......... Gary uses an Olfa "P" cutter, which is basically the same as the Tamiya scriber. It looks like a great big lump of a tool, but Gary uses it to great effect on the models I've seen. Cheers Matthew
  15. Mickey, what's this RLM Mummble? Is there something you aren't telling us about a newly discovered numbering system? Was this early or late war, or Luft 46?
  16. Hey all, Thanks for the thoughts KursadA. As I said in my post, I haven't actually tried this method, and was throwing it out to see what y'all thought. Your knowledge is thankfully received. matthew
  17. Why not make a vacuum chamber? Using a container large enough to hold the mold, put this into a plastic bag. Pour the resin, put the mold in to the container, then gather the bag top around your vacuum cleaner nozzle, and turn it on. Voila, instant vacuum chamber!!! Now, I haven't actually tried this myself, but intend to when I do a bit of casting in the not-too-distant future....... thoughts? Cheers Matthew
  18. G'day! Ultrasonics are the ultimate cleaning method for things like airbrushes. I've been using one for some years. For solvent, keep in mind that the ultrasonics only enhance the effect of the fluid being used. So, if you used a water/detergent for example to try and clean enamel paints, then the result would be far from satisfactory. Use a solvent appropriate for the paint you're removing. I use lacquer thinner for enamels, and alcohol for acrylics. To save solvents, fill the tank with a jewellers ultrasonic fluid, and put the parts to be cleaned in smaller plastic containers (film ca
  19. Keep in mind that F-16's are flush riveted. You actually don't want any thing sticking up proud of the surface, and you also don't want a hole! There used to be a decal product available that was lines of black dots to represent rivets. this looked quite convincing. Of course you could do the same thing with some decal paper in you printer. A very simple word or note pad prog would do the trick "........................................................................." Cheers Matthew
  20. Hey efrainh, Have you happened to make a set of those Tiger tail markings in 48th? Would you be interested? Matthew
  21. Don't feel as though you have to be restricted to items that are bought at a hobby shop. ANYthing around the house can be used for modelling! Dress making pins can be had in different lengths and diameters (great for u/c legs). Electrical wiring is also good for copper stock, simply strip the plastic insulation off and remove the wire. Or you can strip some of the plastic, leaving small sections to represent connections etc. Masking tape also works well wrapped around the part to represent detail. Lead fly fishing tie wire is great for intricate pipe and wire looms. go and have a scrounge t
  22. Thanks Raptor! the 2bobs instrucs also statew that the centre line was clean. Didn't they carry ECM? M
  23. Shots included on the 2bobs instructions show these birds (Mountain Home) loaded with JDAMs. The mission marks also show many more bomb symbols than HARM shots. Have the mission capabilites of the CJ and CG birds blended together? Curious, Matthew
  24. G'day guys, There's been some talk of late on how to clean airbrushes. One of my "real" jobs is repairing musical instruments. I use ultrasonics to clean trumpets and trombones that are chock full of crud. I also use the ultra to clean my airbrush. (Model Master, pre Aztec) Simply fill the tank with a normal ultrasonic cleaning solution (even detergent works quite well) This is used as the fianl rinse on acrylic paints. To clean the parts, put some suitable thinner (alcohol, or paint thinner) in a glass or plastic container, and immerse the parts. Turn it on for 30 to 40 secs. If you think
  25. I'm building Hasegawa's 1/48 Skyhawk at the moment. I couldn't find Gunze FS16440 anywhere (in Sydney) so bought MM. Of course I had already sprayed the bottom with Tamiya white, but spraying the MM over the Tamiya didn't have any bad effects. Maybe one suggestion would be to keep the enamel coats really light, almost "dry" when they hit the surface. A wet coat could cause some probs....... good luck! Matthew
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