Dave Williams

I use it, and think it’s great, but while it self levels and dries thin, it’s not thin out of the bottle. It’s fairly thick, and I use an airbrush with a 0.5 needle to spray it because it’s too thick for my normal 0.35 needle. Also, not sure what thins it. I’ve started trying Ammo Mig thinner because supposedly their one shot primer is the same thing. Finally, cleaning the airbrush and color cup can be a chore since it dries pretty quickly and most cleaners, including Badger’s recommended Flex cleaner, don’t seem to do a good job of dissolving the dried paint. The only thing I’ve found th

I’d look to see if they were carried on USAF A-7Ds. Walleye was primarily a Navy weapon.

I suspect that it had nothing to do with supply issues. Most likely, the MBAs in charge decided to go to a business model that had limited physical inventory to reduce costs, and just ordered product on demand.

Yes. Block 15 and above all have the same larger stabs, and many Block 10s were refitted with them

There are a couple of photos of USN A-7Es carrying Walleye during Desert Storm here: http://www.seaforces.org/usnair/VA/Attack-Squadron-72.htm They were also used during the Vietnam War.

Except the earliest releases with the small stabs, the Hasegawa F-16 kits are Block 15s. For tails, the main difference between the A and C tails is the base, the front of which is shorter for the A. I know at least PWMP made an A tail for the Tamiya kit. One thing to consider on the Tamiya kit is that the top fuselage has a flat spot the the tail to sit on which is sized for the longer C tail base, so that I’ll need to be addressed. Also, if you’re going to convert a Tamiya kit, the Thunderbirds kit is the better option of the two, since it has the NSI and P&W engine, which all A mode

I’m pretty sure that’s just a category for Squadron branded items, like the Squadron books. Squadron isn’t the only ones who sell their stuff.

Are you sure both kits have the same parts? The sprue with the wings should be different since the B/N has the thin, flat wing, and the J has the bulged wing. Scalemates shows that the wing sprues are different. The B/N kit has the B and E wing sprues https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/1/7/8/1025178-36-instructions.pdf The J kit has the C and D wing sprues https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/9/4/2/346942-27-instructions.pdf

High quality resin or 3D printed exhausts are going to be more detailed that the plastic kit parts. The question is whether they are worth the money, and that’s a personal preference.

To be fair, in this day and age, it should be 1/35. The fight over whether military helos should be 1/32 or 1/35 seems to be over, given the large number of military helicopters released in 1/35.

What are some of the better alternatives nowdays? Most of the other gloss coats that I’ve tried are not better.

Especially since Academy/MRC already did this model.

Just put my order in with Sophia for the Romeo and Rescue Hawk. Hopefully they’ll have the instruction issues resolved. It’s nice to see that they included a standard naval scheme (in the HH-60H kit).

I’d be curious why they ditched the SMT, but keep older MiG-29 variants in front line service (other than the UB for training).

The actual fuselage pylons are the same in all of the Revell kits. The RAF GR.1 kit just includes extra fairings to stick on the sides of the pylons. Just don’t attach those extra fairings, and you have the exact same thing that’s in the IDS and ECR kits.