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Old Man

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    There's always a way, usually using double-faced tape.

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  1. Not sure, Sir. There are adhesives for putting down gold leaf, which I have seen modelers say they prefer for foiling, but the craft brands available here in the U.S. may not make it out there, either. Some of the larger hobby shops in Japan or Hong Kong or Australia might stock the Micro-Scale, and be able to mail order it. Years ago, people used furniture varnish for the purpose, but from reading I gather that that is pretty tricky, though it does work: the stuff is not sticky for a while, and then sets pretty quickly, so that a practiced knack is definitely necessary.
  2. Happy to be of some assistance, Sir. A 'Hustler' in foil in 1/48 would be a sight to see....
  3. Thank you, Sir! The steel wool treatment grew out of my desire to have the dull side of the foil exposed. The adhesive does not grip so well on the shiny side, so I tried roughing the shiny side up with steel wool, and found this did the trick, and let me put the adhesive to the originally shiny side successfully. I noticed that it also made the foil more flexible, or at least it seemed to me that after the foil treatment it went over things like blisters and strakes better. So I kept at it, and took to doing it on both sides. The stuff can certainly be used 'as is', but thinner is better. It is a good idea to wipe down with a damp cloth, or rinse under running water, after you have done the steel wool step, to be sure any little fragments are gone. My main aim with the eggshell treatment is to dull the foil somewhat. Even the dull side of foil as it comes off the roll is just too bright, at least for my tastes, and does not look quite right to me on a model. It is sort of like 'scale effect' with paint. When putting multiple pieces of foil to the eggshell treatment, there will be variations in color, as they will not all be in for the same length of time, nor will the strength of the shell liquid remain the same. So there are appreciable differences between the tones of the sheets. The alteration in the color from the eggshells is not so much a 'greying' but a 'browning', by the way, and if you have to try and match the tone with paint, a touch of deck tan in silver paint comes pretty close....
  4. Thank you, Sir. Glad you liked it.
  5. Glad you like it, Sir. I have no pictures that are that in-progress, but it putting the foil on is not that hard, though it takes practice. Basically you cut a piece to the approximate size you need (a little over-size), put it on the plastic, and burnish it down with a Q-Tip and toothpicks. Start at the center of the piece and work outwards (usually). If you get a bit of 'bubble', just prick it with the knife-point and press down again. You do have to be sure there is nothing on the surface, and that the surface is smooth, but I do not think it needs to be quite so mirror finish as the metallizer paints require. Once it is down, cut along the panel lines that define the edges of the area you set out to cover (you want a new or at least new-ish #11 blade for this). Pick up the excess with the tip of the blade and a tweezers, then repeat.... In preparing the foil, I take regular kitchen foil, sand it pretty thoroughly with fine steel wool on both sides, boil it with a lot of egg-shells for a few minutes in a little water, then hit it again with the steel wool, and once it is dry, press it flat in a heavy book, then tape a piece of it to a piece of tempered glass, and apply the Micro-Scale adhesive lavishly. The rest is just cutting and rubbing with Q-tips and toothpicks, and sometimes keeping an eye out for where you have to cut a slit to let the stuff lay down right. If you have to take stuff up, CA kicker washes off any adhesive residue readily. Nothing looks quite so much like metal as metal does....
  6. Pretty much my period, Sir. I would be very happy to see this start up, and participate.
  7. It's funny 'cause it's true, Sir.... "Stan Mack Funnies ... all dialogue guaranteed over-heard verbatim."
  8. Thank you, Sir. I expect to have it done in a couple of weeks. There really is not that much left to do on it. It has been quite a bit of fun so far....
  9. Excellent work, Sir! Wonderful subject, one a lot of people seem to have shed any memory of at all.
  10. I join in the thanks to our host, Mr. Mikkel. This was a great idea, and a lot of fun. I have been wanting to do a Chilean Hawk for some time, and it was good to get off-center on it and actually do the thing.
  11. Armor people might be able to help, too. There just isn't much over-lap in shapes between automobiles and airplanes. And you have to have most of the thing hollow, for the passenger compartment and 'under the hood'; usually in an airplane it hardly matters what is under the surface for just about the whole thing.
  12. That is a bit out of my field, Sir. I expect you are going to have to look into vacu-forming, and carve everything out in bass-wood. I expect the engines are not that much different from aircraft engines where it comes to detailing. Lots of sizes of wire (look into beading wire at a craft store, and rip up lengths of electrical cord), and Plastruct or Evergreen rod and sheet in various sizes, are the basic materials. The saving grace of scratching detail is that, if you decide you don't like it, or you drop it, you can just chalk it up to experience and do it again. Have you looked into the Automotive forums here? http://s362974870.onlinehome.us/forums/air/index.php?showforum=193 Someone there might be able to help you more.
  13. Here is an excellent primer to the subject, Sir: http://www.wwi-n-plastic.com/Book/harry/contents.htm It focuses on the use of plastic sheet, in 1/48 scale, but much can be adapted to other scales. Much does depend on the scale you build in, and of course, your subject. I do quite a bit of scratch-building, always in 1/72, and usually of biplanes of the WWI period, or a little later. What exactly is it you are setting out to build?
  14. Thank you, Sir. Just for the memories, here is a picture of how the cowling started out....
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