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Curt B

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About Curt B

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    Step away from the computer!
  • Birthday 10/01/1958

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  • Location
    Las Vegas, NV (Henderson, actually)
  • Interests
    Photography (portraiture), Guitar/Bass, Keyboards, Drums

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  1. Steve, thanks for the recommendations for Facebook pages. If you are considering doing to the National here in Las Vegas, PLEASE let me know. I may have told you, or perhaps not, that i live in Las Vegas, and I am so hoping that the IPMS National show does happen, in spite of COVID. I would love to catch up in person. If you want to discuss via e-mail, I'm at cabasner@eartlhink.net.
  2. Steve, Frankly, I'm stunned by the level of detail that you have created on your P-47M. It's far beyond anything I could do, and far more than I would even CONSIDER doing...but the results are spectacular. I surely hope you are planning to enter your plane into some contests...as I cannot see you doing anything but winning! Although, speaking for myself, I'd be happy looking at the model on a display shelf, and thinking back on all the work it took to get it there! I'm looking forward to seeing the final result, sir.
  3. Thanks, barkin. It turns out that my friend had an older Fw190 book that has pictures of in-service Fw190 aircraft that show the stencils to be present on the trim tabs themselves, and later variant 190s that have the stencils where your photo indicates. Thank you for the help!
  4. Well, it turns out that I TRIED to use the decal method, and it failed miserably. While the Eduard decals are admirably thin and they lay down very nicely over details, they do not have any natural inclination to stick in the spots where placed, even with the use of the various decal setting solutions. At least in my experience. I tried laying down one of the single black squares on the lower rear of the cowl, and while it sat nicely, it took next to nothing to move the decal off its final spot. Then, I tried to place the 'ring' of black/white squares on the most forward part of the cowlin
  5. Hi All, I've built several of the 1/48 Eduard Fw190 A and D variant airplanes, and I have never been able to determine, for sure, even in photos of the actual planes, where, exactly, the stencils that are present for the trim tabs on the rudder, elevators, and ailerons are supposed to be located. Are those stencils supposed to be on the trim tabs themselves, or are they supposed to be on the large control surfaces, right next to the trim tabs? Sorry for such a stupid question, but I've been unable to get an accurate answer. I suppose either way would be okay, though the stencil
  6. Hi guys, I’m the original poster of this thread and have read the responses with interest. I’m getting close to the need for a gloss coat in prep for decals on my 1/48 Eduard Fw190 A-6. I think I’m going to give the GX series a try. Hoping it works!!
  7. Rob, FABULOUS work! You are, though, a much more accomplished modeler than I, and so I would expect nothing less than perfection from you! I'm still planning on using the decals, until/unless they end up being completely messed up. I still have the major body/wing colors to finish before I work on the cowl. I'm trying a custom mmix of Gunze lacquers for the darker 'grey' on this 190, so we'll see how it turns out. It's kind of a dark grey with tints of blue/green. It may not be accurate, but it WILL be distinctive! I've been working on my 1/35 Meng T-90a modern
  8. Hey Steve!! Love your XVI ! I’m pretty sure I have the Eduard XVI in my stash, too. My very, very first airplane since restarting the hobby 11+ years ago, now, was the Eduard VIII, and though I was terrified at the prospect (due to the need for perfect seams, etc.), that airplane went together perfectly, as your XVI did, and it was my first time using lacquer paints (Gunze lacquers) and I’d been thrilled with the whole thing, and that experience helped ease my anxiety over airplane models, though far from eliminating it! As I’ve written before, the Tamiya Spit Mk. 1 went together really we
  9. Thanks, guys! I think I'm going try to use the decals, but judiciously. I'm sure that there will need to be some paint touch-ups, on top of the decals, but I"m not too worried about that. But I guess there is just no easy way around trying to do checkerboard patterns on cowls, unless some manufacturer decided to provide a pre-painted cowling, and even if that were the case, I'm sure it would look too toy-like for a scale model.
  10. Hi All, I'm moving along on my 1/48 Eduard Fw-190 A-6 build, into the painting stage. I've decided to do the paint scheme depicted in the box art (https://www.eduard.com/eduard/plastic-kits/profipack/aircraft/1-48/fw-190a-6-1-48-1.html), which is a black and white checkerboard nose, despite the fact that that level of detail scares the heck out of me. Eduard has provided decals for this detail, clear decal film where the white checks are (thus needing to paint the nose white) and black decal for those checks. I've not gotten to the point of decals yet, but I'm getting nervous ab
  11. I just ordered the Eduard 11146 1/48 Spitfire Mk. IIa/IIb "Spitfire Story: Tally Ho!" kit from Spruebrothers, with their Lightning Deal for $48.99, which appears to be a smoking deal, as I see almost everywhere is selling these in the $70+ range. I've already gotten the Eduard Spitfire Mk. IIa kit, 82153, and was just curious if this single kit is the same model as that included in the Tally Ho double kit. I'm guessing it is. I suppose the adage the you can never have too many Spitfires has become true for me, as I will now have about 8 unbuilt Spits in my collection, on top of the 2 alread
  12. Wow, super cool work so far, Red! I am really impressed! I hope my F-14s look half as good as yours!
  13. HHHmmmmmm....I like that potential option! Thanks for the ideas!
  14. Hi Dimi, Welcome to the site...you will learn TON of stuff if you spend enough time here. While I'm sure this isn't want you want to hear, really the ONLY way to get to the very best airbrush experience is to practice!! Practice with the paint that you plan to use on your model(s), and use sheet plastic or or a paint 'mule', (a model that you don't want to complete or that you don't care about if you mess up the paint). I know you're going to say that you've seen, heard or read this before, but getting your paint to a consistency of skim milk is always a good start.
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