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Curt B

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About Curt B

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    Step away from the computer!
  • Birthday 10/01/1958

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    Las Vegas, NV (Henderson, actually)
  • Interests
    Photography (portraiture), Guitar/Bass, Keyboards, Drums

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  1. Thanks for the input so far, guys, this is exactly what I was/am looking for!! If anyone else has opinions, please keep them coming...thank you!!
  2. Hi All, Well, I have an interesting saga to pass on. The very first model that I got, once deciding, 11 years ago, to get back into models, was the Academy 1/48 F-22A. In fact, the model was a Christmas gift from my in-laws, and since I was a COMPLETE newbie, getting back into the hobby after ~40 years, and I was just learning about aftermarket stuff, I bought just about every aftermarket item that was available for this kit, including Eduard and a bunch of Aries stuff, which was before I learned how fussy Aries fits can be. I still have that F-22A, but have yet to begin buildin
  3. Understand the point about cost...and when you say it as you did, the cost approaching the cost of the entire kit, it does sound absurd, no matter how wonderful/fantastic the detail! I'll have to give consideration to these exhausts for my F-4S.
  4. Hi All, Curious about opinions out there. I have some other KA exhausts, which are great, but don't really have any idea about how they may compare (open or closed...I tend to prefer open exhausts, generally speaking) to the the Zoukei-Mura kit exhausts. I think there is very little argument about aftermarket exhausts for, say, the GWH F-15 (not that the GWH exhausts are that bad, just that the aftermarket exhausts are THAT GOOD!), but I don't have a sense of the same thing for F-4 exhausts. Thoughts, folks?
  5. I am so very, very, very sorry for your loss. My heart breaks for you. I have 2 Pembroke Welsh Corgis, one just turned 11 and the other is 8. They are the best things in my life, along with my wife. I love my doggies so very much, way more than most people in my life, and I will mourn their loss far more than the loss of almost every human I know. Dogs are so amazing...and I think the thing is that they have no guile, they are so kind hearted and simply loving. They rely on us for everything, including their lives, and it seems so terribly unfair that their lives are so short compared to
  6. Hi All, I'm curious to know if any of you out there have either used, directly, or happen to have both AK Real Color AK057 and Tamiya XF-63 German Grey paints. I've used Tamiya paint for many years, and have a few bottle of XF-63. I'm getting ready to paint my 1/48 Tamiya IL-2 Shturmovik, and I've seen a variety of different paint colors used/suggested. The instructions suggest the gray part of the camouflage be done in Tamiya XF-24 Dark Grey (of course, Tamiya models alway only suggest Tamiya Paint colors). On the PLASMO website where he built this specific model, he used, for
  7. Hi All, I'm just starting a thread to see what folks are thinking. I noted with interest the new, upcoming Border Model 1/35 Bf-109G-6 airplane. Given the many possibilities for dioramas that people may wish to do, the idea of mixing airplanes and armor in a larger size means a 1/35 plane would be a great option. Of course, alternately, as Tamiya has begun to do over the last many years, one could go with 1/48 scale armor to match the huge number of airplanes in 1/48. I'm just curious about what folks are thinking, in terms of which way would you prefer to go, if such dioramas
  8. My bottle of Future looks a lot like the one posted, but, frankly, I still use it and notice no yellowing at all. I agree 100% with Raceaddict's assessment that the thickness of the Future layer would be/is so thin as to make no discernible difference in whatever surface you are using it on, even it it is a perfectly clear plastic piece. In addition, I've tried a number of the 'other' clear glosses, including Alclad Aqua Gloss and Tamiya X-22, and I have seen no better quality gloss finish using those as compared to Future. I also have the Mr. Color GX100, Mr. Color GX112 and the AK Gauzy,
  9. I use AK Real Color paints as well. Flory did a review, referenced below, which went through a large variety of thinners for compatibility, and the AK Real Colors appeared compatible with the vast majority, including water (albeit distilled water, not tap water). It is unfortunate, though, that manufacturers whose products have been available in various markets, and have become beloved by modelers, don't always stay as readily available to those modelers, for a variety of reasons, including manufacturing issues, importing costs and legal issues, etc. It sure would be nice, if unrealistic, t
  10. Hi All, Im just looking for some opinions from folks who may have some experience with the subject topic. I have been using Gator's Grip glue for some time now, almost exclusively for gluing clear parts to airplane models. For this work, this glue is fabulous. I haven't really experimented with gluing photo etch parts to other photo etch parts with this glue, but I have been looking for an alternative to superglue, which often has many challenges and sometimes doesn't even work as advertised. I've tried my hand at soldering, and while I'm not good at it, I will still try to use
  11. Depends which airbrush. For my Paasche Model H, I usually disassemble the very few parts (3) for a complete cleaning after very use; that's the advantage of this very simple design. For my double action airbrushes, I've learned that I can get away without disassembling for cleaning. I am very careful in using appropriately thinned paint, and then extremely thoroughly rinse the brush after completing every painting session. When using lacquer paints, I run probably 6-8 color cupfuls of lacquer thinner through the brush after using one or more Q-Tips to wipe out the cup. in addition, I almo
  12. Fantastic reference!!! Thank you, JUST what I was looking for!!!!
  13. I like this one, though I'm not sure, for me, being a hard rocker, that I could listen to as much Benny Goodman and Glenn Miller as it would take to complete all my WWII airplanes 😊
  14. Hmmm, this is an interesting one. I know I could not build a model without resorting to this technique. Oftentimes, in a less than perfect fitting kit, pressure on parts while drying is the only way to join them.
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