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ESzczesniak

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Everything posted by ESzczesniak

  1. All, I am looking for a set of VF-111 decals from the Academy F-4B...I'm looking in particular for the rainbow color spread on one of the red sun rays on the tail. I'd be happy to compensate fairly or if there are trades you're interested, discuss those as well. Thanks for looking! Eric
  2. The two most glaring issues are: 1) (flight dynamics) handling at Vr. It is very sluggish in rotation, but then jumps off the runway. It makes speed management very challenging in the second segment climb since you gain a lot of speed during rotation. And 2) (AFS) it’s known to start a nose dive while in APP mode around 1,000’ without any warning or reason… or consistency. There are some other minor tags with the AFS, but more minor. The poor rotation handling really bothers me, because like AMS in scale modeling, I tend to be a bit OCD in flight simming and want to fly well by the n
  3. Take a look in to the FBW A32NX. It’s a freeware project. It started as tweaking the default A320 in MSFS, but turned in to a standalone aircraft. It is quite frankly well ahead of the CRJ. The flight dynamics are a bit off in the CRJ and it’s autoflight systems still run in to bugs. And if you’re in to the DC area, there are two separate add ons you can purchase, both made by Drziewicki Designs. One is for DCA airport itself. The other are all the landmark of the DC area. The landmarks are actually a decent upgrade over what’s in the sim already and adds even more the the runway 19
  4. I’m not sure what product I’m looking for though. Looking through the website, I’m not finding anything about storage.
  5. That’s not a bad idea. I could use the same binder for the plastic sheets I have as well. Any suggestions on the heat/soldering gun? The soldering gun I have is variable, but only on a 1-5 setting.
  6. I'm a little confused. I'm not seeing anything clearly related to this from the main page. Does he have a storage product somewhere on his site? The problem here is space efficiency. Most of the stock I have will fit a whole package in about 0.25" diameter. PVC pipe is larger diameter and thick walled, so becomes very inefficient for space. If I had large diameter stock, this would be a great solution.
  7. To date, I've kept my Evergreen and Plastruct stock in their original packaging. I have some sheets that are for a different day, but the strip stock is mostly 0.05-0.1" range rod, rectangles, etc. I'm am tired and over this solution. Anyone have any good ideas how to store this stuff in a simple, space efficient manner? I've heard people recommend tackle box trays, but that gets very inefficient for the small size stuff I have. I'd love some honeycomb type thing that was 12-15" thick, but all I can find are about 1" thick. I thought of making something like that out of 10-15
  8. Personally, I’d fill the really large gaps with some plastic stock cemented in with you favorite plastic glue (I personally like Tamiya), and use superglue over the top. Putty has its role, but I find it to be limited these days. It also doesn’t have much strength itself and it looks like some of that area on the left (inboard) flap insert doesn’t have a lot of foundation for putty. Superglue will blend in rather well with plastic, although I still find a primer coat helpful to unify the different smoothness/porosity of superglue and plastic. It scribes fairly well too. I find cutting scribers
  9. Tamiya is an “acrylic lacquer”. Acrylic technically refers to the binder in the paint. It’s water soluble, but the case of Tamiya, the solvent isn’t water. So, yes, it can be rough on some “solvent” sensitive paints. These tend to be more the water based acrylics. There tends to be fewer issues spraying “hot” paints. They’re definitely still can be, but it’s safer due to thinner coats and less physical abrading than a brush. In general, the simplest way to avoid paint compatibility issues would be stay in the same paint line. So I’d you could find the Gunze Aqueous clear fl
  10. Thank you! I guess I'm not particularly choosy on a particular time. I just want to make sure I model an accurate air frame that would have really existed at some time.
  11. As best I can tell, there were no DECM antennas on the VX-4 F-4J (specifically Vandy 1/Black Bunny). However, I have no good pictures of the underside and I'm worried these could easily hide in the all black paint. Does anyone have any better knowledge of either this specific airframe, or some generalizations about what F-4J's would have them? Thank you in advance!
  12. That is an interesting bit of information and I might like that idea. I had a gray bird pictured in my head, but do like the euro camo pattern too. I already have the Heavenly Hogs sheet that I will be using for the IN ANG bird. But could maybe use it for both.
  13. Yes, it seems like almost every hit I find through Google is “Barksdale Says Farewell to the A-10”…in 2014. Their nose is pretty distinctive, so fairly easily identified in photographs. But even in a generic Google images search for “A-10”, everything seems to be a TGP and two Mavericks with the blue stripes.
  14. I've long loved the A-10, but am only now starting to build one. I'm starting the 1/48 Hobby Boss with a load of extras...Aires pit and wheels, GT intakes, etc. I've been partial to the particular "Hog Mouth" of the Barksdale A-10's. I also typically build combat birds. So from what I've read, the only time Barksdale deployed was 93-96 in Bosnia. Would anyone be able to point me to a good picture source for reference? I'm looking for reference for paint schemes, weapons loads, weathering, etc. All the Barksdale photos I feel like I'm finding are more recent photos of them stateside.
  15. The 2k is a two part polyurethane used by a lot of car guys. Similar to epoxy glue, it’s mixed in two parts starting a chemical reaction. So it hardens by a chemical reaction, no a solvent evaporating. They have excellent leveling properties and dry very hard. So they’re great for high gloss car finishes.
  16. I've had great results with rag wheels, but I would be cautious with the hard felt wheels. These will be easy to sand through paint and even in to plastic. The "cotton" wheels are more similar to the felt in my mind. I would use fairly low speeds, 5-10k RPM. And the other caution point is to have the wheel spinning away from the edges so it doesn't catch and fling the part somewhere. Polishing vs wax depends on how perfect your clear coat is. On 2k clear gloss car finishes, I haven't found polishing to add much. But these are absolutely glass smooth. On simpler g
  17. I wouldn't expect any problems. It is common in the car world to use lacquers and 2k clears. Gravity Colors, Zero Paints, Splash, etc of the car world are lacquer based and all have 2k clears. As always, it pays to test. But I can attest that Zero Paints 2k clear worked without problems over Tamiya lacquer spray bombs on my SF70H. I'm not sure if their LP line is much different or not.
  18. Is there a quick easy way you could share to tell the differences? I like the looks and history of the F-4, but am very, errr...stupid regarding them. I believe I had read that they also should have the Mk. 5 seats? Is that correct?
  19. That's an interesting note. Any one have any ideas where I could find BuNo's? Seems I should be able to use F-4N markings from the 'Dem Bones sheets, but maybe change the BuNo.
  20. Didn’t look at the exhaust much, but looked at the intake when I was getting ready to build a WA aggressor bird. Just from looking at the instructions for the Hasegawa and Revell, it didn’t look terribly straightforward to patch on to the Tamiya kit.
  21. If you’re set on a block 52, I think you’ll have to go Revell or Hasegawa to get the NSI intake and matching exhaust. I think the consensus is Revell has the edge, but they’re both similar. I don’t think any of the Revell kits have the HTS. However if you’re just looking for a wild weasel with an HTS, Tamiya would be the way to go. It’ll have the large mouth intake. And I think it is post-CCIP so, so it’ll have the bird slicers. Those should be easy to sand off though. It’s a block 50 bird.
  22. I believe the Italeri is closer, but to my knowledge neither is a true A-10C. The Hobby Boss is missing some antenna's as well as have an -A cockpit. The Italeri has a later antenna suite, which I believe is closer, but still has effectively an -A cockpit. I saw Quinta made a -C cockpit for the Trumpeter 1/32 A-10A, so maybe they'll scale it down to 1/48. This is mostly personal preference, but I was not a fan of the Italeri A-10. It went together ok, but the moldings were awfully think leading to thick trailing edges, etc. The trumpeter is a bit of a pain to build, but I pe
  23. Thank you all for the replies! I didn't think I was losing it, but am not an expert on the A-10 and couldn't say for sure they weren't an upgrade after initial production models. Thank you for the offer! I appreciate it and don't want to completely ignore it, I have a couple HB 1/48 A-10's in the closet I was able to use for dimensions. Made a CAD model pretty quickly and then 3D printed them. Might not be perfect enough dimensionally for one of my AMS builds, but this gets the look right and that's all the goal of the build is or the moment.
  24. I'm checking in with any experts to see if I'm smoking something. I'm trying to use the Hobby Boss 1/72 A-10A as a simple quick build to interrupt the AMS cycle. The attached picture shows the main wheel housing/fairings. Unless I'm missing something, there's nothing to be added to these. Nothing notes in the instructions or any apparent extra pieces. Every picture I've found of the A-10 has a rear portion of the fairing that tapers out over the flaps. It appears the taper is part of the flaps mechanism, as it seems to extend/hing down in pictures with the flaps down.
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