Jump to content

ESzczesniak

Members
  • Content Count

    939
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ESzczesniak

  • Rank
    Step away from the computer!
  • Birthday 10/01/1983

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chicago, IL
  • Interests
    Military Modeling (primarily USA)

Recent Profile Visitors

8,901 profile views
  1. I wanted to give a brief chance to confirm I am not seeing things incorrectly. It looks like the flaps on F-35A's when powered down are in the down position? Thank you for any input!
  2. Those instructions don’t include the main dark gray (FS36170). I’m not at home (and won’t be for a bit), but it’s a mix of LP15 and LP59. I believe it’s 5:1, but not completely sure of the ratio.
  3. While it may be getting a bit long, I would note USPS often misses multiple scans. I’ve seen them not uncommonly go from “arrived at regional origin faculty” to “at local post office” several days later with no other updates.
  4. The Super Hornets wing pylons are in fact angled out. I believe it’s 4 degrees from the center line. I’ve read the reason, but unfortunately can’t recall exactly why. It is related to aerodynamics though…but might have been for the airframe, or something about separation of stores when released.
  5. Thank you all for the replies and further pictures! A medium to dark metallic gray seems pretty safe and defensible.
  6. Combined with the above replies, it seems less than clear. Dark gray, a metallic gray of anodized aluminum, or possible a chromate primer over aluminum. Perhaps the dark gray in the pictures I found is a weathered and darkened version of anodized aluminum. Or perhaps different t services don’t have the same coloring.
  7. After continued searching, I may have found some help in this build log from Flory models… https://www.florymodels.org/kitty-hawk-135-sh60b Under the finished photos and YouTube video are a series of in progress photos. Mixed in, about 1/3 of the way through, are a few photos that look to be 1:1 reference photos. An example… Here it appears to be a very dark gray, effectively black. In a couple photos it might have a slight metallic sheen. But…this may be a coast guard aircraft. This image looks more white than gray surrounding the open panel
  8. Does anyone have reference photos, or able to provider information, for the color of the engine compartment on SH-60's? I am having a hard time finding photos from a high enough angle to see the walls of the compartment and not just the engine. Best I can judge is a zinc-chromate primer, but I'm only pulling this off the edges of the doors in pictures and not feeling very confident. Thank you for any help!
  9. An object that is well designed and printed well on a SLA printer should not look like those parts. Even entry level hobbyist SLA printers can print parts that compete with, or exceed, top of the line resin casting. However, this does requires some expertise and experience. Printers need to be calibrated properly to the resin, be in a good environment (warm and fairly stable), manage cross sectional area (and often hollow models), and printed with a good orientation. When printed with all these things tuned, you will not see layer lines. The biggest challenge are the printer supports, whi
  10. Technically, yes no matter what. It will be a lot easier with SLA printed parts than FDM printed parts. The SLA resin behaves a lot like the standard resin we've all used for aftermarket stuff for decades. The biggest challenge would just be not sanding away any detail. The filament used by FDM printers (most commonly PLA) is a bit rubbery, and doesn't sand the best. A lot of people who do non-model making stuff use a 2 part epoxy brushed on to "fill in" the print lines as opposed to sanding them. But then you soften detail.
  11. Thank you! The wing chord probably could give me what I need.
  12. I've found a 3D model of a KC-135 boom to begin work on an AAR diorama I've had plans of (Tamiya 1/48 F-16). The model is proprietary, but I think sharing the brief screenshot below doesn't violate any terms (in brief, the terms just say personal use only, no profit for its use). Is anyone able to tell me the dimension of anything reliable in the model below. I need something I can measure on the model and compare to real life to set a scale. I am a bit focused on the diameter of the tip of the probe, but width of wings, etc could be get the job done as well. Thank you for any help!
  13. After battling their F-16I Sufa, and not being totally happy with the build still, I’d love to see this variant down the road. The Hasegawa shows it’s age in lack of surface detail, intake, etc. and Tamiya has no great road to converting.
  14. Thank you both! Despite having used scalemates.com to look at instructions before, I hadn't thought of that in this case. And I most likely missed the CD, but didn't notice one in the box. I'll have to get it out of storage and look.
  15. I bought a 1/18 Packard Merlin engine from HpH models. The transaction was very smooth, but the kit did not come with instructions. They have a link on their website, but it is locked in Google documents. I have not received any feedback after "requesting access". I also emailed them about a week ago and have not heard any reply. Does anyone else have any suggestions?
×
×
  • Create New...