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About ESzczesniak

  • Rank
    Step away from the computer!
  • Birthday 10/01/1983

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    Chicago, IL
  • Interests
    Military Modeling (primarily USA)

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  1. I’m planning a bit similar, but with the GWH 1/72 kit. I at least have a diorama or one on cat 4 and one just before touchdown. I do also like the idea of one on the deck with a wire under tension. Oh and then there’s an elevator lift...so much building.
  2. My apologies if it seemed like I was arguing. I was just trying to add information. These control surface changes are quick, but not instantaneous. It’s always seemed to me helpful to understand what is happening and why, so a person can figure out the exact moment they’re trying to depict. While the F110 engines were better, even in both linked photos, the speed brakes are still out. And the second linked photo photo as well as this one (https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:US_Navy_051115-N-7241L-012_An_F-14D_Tomcat_prepares_to_make_an_arrested_landing_on_the_flight_deck_of_the_Nimitz-class_aircraft_carrier_USS_Theodore_Roosevelt_(CVN_71).jpg) both show the inner spoiler panel used by the DLC out. It’s nearly retracted in the picture you posted, fully deployed in the photo above. But again, none of these transitions are instantaneous. So if you’re looking to depict the moment touchdown with the nose in the air still, it might be reasonable to see a bit of the onboard spolers deployed and brakes out. If your looking just as the bird is coming to a stop, both should be in.
  3. If I understand correctly, this is a little variable and depends if you are talking about immediately before or after touchdown. 1. Spoilers: The F-14 has a “direct lift control” system that was designed to allow the pilot to make adjustments on glide slope without changing AOA. This was utilized due to slow response time of the engines and utilized spoilers 2 and 3. Up to touchdown, this would be partially deployed. With the anti skid switch in the carrier position, this would fully retract immediately at touchdown. On ground based landings, they would extend to improve wheel braking. 2. Speedbrake: I believe the speedbrake was at the pilots discretion, but often extended for the approach. This kept the power at a higher setting where the throttle curve was more responsive. These would retract effectively immediately at touch down when the pilot went full throttle. They were set to automatically retract past something like 60%. 3. Nozzle position: Again, depends a little bit how close to touchdown you mean, but in general would be at the “low power” position (I actually forget if that’s open or close). The pilot would select full throttle at touchdown, but throttle response was about 2 seconds and the aircraft would be near the end of roll out or even at a full stop before the engine response/position caught up. 4. Oleo: I don’t have much to add here. More compressed on the mains than the nose, but can’t say much about how much. Launch bar definitely up. 5. Tail planes: on average, slightly leading edge down, but dependent on current control inputs. Those inputs shouldn’t be so large they go past neural.
  4. I know this is a Super Hornet, but would combat loaded a Legacy Hornet circa 2003 have similar chalk markings for gun/countermeasures loads? And if so, would it be on this similar corresponding panels?
  5. Yes, and that’s where I’ve noticed a couple patterns. Sometimes people who have worked on the airplanes have helpful insight as to what is realistic and what is not. So I was just checking to see.
  6. I was wondering if anyone whose worked on or with the F/A-18C's could provide some insight to areas that would be common to see corrosion control touch ups? I know it's corrosion and largely random, but I'm sure there's some common areas that are likely to be worn due to routine maintenance. From the pictures, I see the avionics bays on the fuselage on either side of the cockpit/nose gear bay and on top of the LEX near the walkways. Any other areas that frequently need these touch ups due to wear or frequent access? I'm depicting a bird deployed on a CV, so am expecting a decent amount of corrosion control. Thank you for any thoughts!
  7. I see, thank you! For some reason, I thought ATFLIR and self lasing were part of the Hornets mission loadout and capability for OEF/OIF. Seems its an easy choice for me now...the kit AAS-38/Nitehawk.
  8. I have the Wolfpack set on the way, so I guess I'll see how the adaptor works on a legacy birds once it arrives. If it doesn't fit, would it be fair to assume the closest way to accurate would be to use the AAS-38 adaptor included in the Kinetic kit since it's only slightly different?
  9. I am building Kinetic's 1/48 F/A-18C for a bird aboard the Conny in 2003. The kit does not include the AN/ASQ-228 ATFLIR, which I believe was the standard ship board pod. It does include the AAQ-28 (which I believe was for land based birds mostly), AAS-38, and Sniper XR. First, am I correct that a shipboard bird in 2003 would be using the ATFLIR? Secondly, would it use the same pylon from the kit as the Litening II and AAS-38? I'm trying to figure out which of the kit pylons to glue on before painting.
  10. Would anyone have some personal tips to share? I moved from Tamiya/Model Master to Vallejo a couple years ago. Vallejo has worked well for me, but the color accuracy is terrible and sometimes instead of mixing pain, you just want to spray dark ghost gray or whatever. So I've kept Model Master around for this. I was interested in trying the AMMO paints since they seem to do better for color accuracy and got my first bottles a few days ago. I have not messed with them a lot yet, but was unimpressed on my first go. It was not the worst/roughest surface, but nothing like the silky smooth surface I can get out of a Tamiya or Model Master Acryl flat paint. I sprayed as recommended straight from the bottle at about 18 PSI through a H&S Infinity 0.4 mm nozzle in about 3 coats total to get full coverage. It wasn't a full orange peel surface, but not all that smooth. And I got a fair bit of tip dry. Lowering the PSI actually made the problem worse and raising it did not help much. It seems they in fact do need thinning (they look thick out of the bottle) and maybe some retarder. A Google search turned up some other people with similar experience, but most of them seemed to just stop using the paints rather than sharing solutions So I was wondering if anyone had some of their personal tricks? What thinner's work well, PSI, etc?
  11. Yes, exactly that way. There’s a flare on the out nacelle, but in terms of the interface for the new nozzle, exactly what you show.
  12. Apologies about going MIA. Work got buys for a few days. I can try to get a quick iPhone picture posted later, but at the moment here are the measurements. Measurements are with a bargain ish digital caliper (good, but not amazing) at 3 locations around the diameter and averaged. Outer diameter (flush with nacelles): 0.397" (0.402", 0.395", 0.395") Inner diameter (to slide nozzle in): 0.326" (0.329", 0.326", 0.324") Depth: no hard stop There are locating tabs at 12 and 6 o'clock that are 0.036" to a depth of 0.242"
  13. Thank you and yes. I was planning to give OD, ID, depth, and anything else that seems useful when I have a chance to look at the parts.
  14. I couldn’t wait and ordered the Doyushou boxing from Japan. About halfway through two of them. I’ll try to measure the exhaust openings when I have a chance and report back.
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