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ESzczesniak

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About ESzczesniak

  • Rank
    Step away from the computer!
  • Birthday 10/01/1983

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chicago, IL
  • Interests
    Military Modeling (primarily USA)

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  1. I picked up the Zvezda 1/144 A350-1000. I don't think I'm going to be masking all the little windows on this one and have been looking for window decals. But all the ones I'm fining are for the shorter A350-900 from Revell. Does anyone know where I could find some decals for the windows on the -1000, or failing that precut window masks? I'm planning to use the Airbus demosntrated markings that come with the kit. Thanks for any help!
  2. Don’t forget the GWH kit. I haven’t built it yet, but it looks great in the box and the online reviews seems to be good. It seems the GWH and Fine Molds are similar in detail options and ease of build (seems they’re a bit complex, but fit well).
  3. I agree as well, but a slight word of caution to the Testor's Dullcote diehards. I have gotten great results with Aqua gloss, but lost two models where Dullcote proved to be too hot and mottled/cracked the underlying pain. I've been using the same Tamiya and Testors for years without problem. The only change was the Aqua gloss. Yes, very thin coats should be safe and I've made it through some models without problem as well, but the margin of error seemed rather small. I'm at a crossroads where I've been going back to Tamiya clear gloss for it's durability and thin coats and using the Alclad Klear Flat. I know it doesn't help to change two things at once, but it's working for me.
  4. I present my Tamiya 1:24 Ford GT, finished a couple months ago. The model is out of the box. I used Splash paints 2k primer, color coats, and 2k clear. The model itself is a breeze to assemble and the paints worked flawlessly. The 2k primer worked fantastic, but I am not sure is worth the mixing and respirator/vented spray booth needs. On the other hand, the 2k clear is virtually idiot proof and stunning! On to the pictures, as always, please share any criticism to learn from. Thanks for looking! Eric
  5. I do have it, but turns out it’s a Wolfpack conversion set and Sky Decals. I can send pictures later.
  6. I’ll have to check, but I think I have an Isracast conversion set and decals designed for the Tamiya kit. As alluded to, mostly lumps and bumps, assuming you get the nozzle/intake from the kit. I don’t plan on using it anymore and would be happy to part ways for negligible amounts (I.e. shipping cost).
  7. At least the one I got was just a single 600 grit. I’ll have to take a look either way though.
  8. True, I had been shooting at ISO 100 to preserve as much raw data as possible. But maybe this is also “over the top” and unnecessary.
  9. I’m wondering if anyone with more knowledge/experience could comment on a reasonable F-stop range for photographing models? I have a decent Nikon DSLR and do most of my photography for models with the 18-55 mm lenses (F3.4-5.6). I have two CFL photography lamps with approximately 8,000 lumens, CRI 93, 5500k. Although I did just order a new tent inclusive of LED lights at 13,000 lumens, CRI 95, 5000k. I had been using f22-26. This was giving 1-1.5 second exposures and without autobracketing and need to use a remote release with these long exposures, really got tedious. I’ve been wondering if I’m pushing the f-stop lower than practically needed. Most of my subjects are roughly 1/48 aircraft size and my old photo box 24”, new 32”. At this setup, I tended to be more often near the 55 mm than 18 mm. Calculating DOF with this arrangement, f8 to f/22 only went from about 0.8” to 2.2”. So regardless, a whole model wasn’t technically in DOF. Given some of the point and shoot (I.e. without tripod, not lessor cameras) at shows, I can’t help think there’s something else that can bring the shutter times down. So so what range would you recommend for f-stop?
  10. A while ago a freebie promotional sanding stick with a Spruebrothers order. It was all stamped with Spruebrothers, but I assume it was some brands available product that Spruebrothers made a deal and added their logo too. Could anyone one tell me what sanding sticks these are, as I’ve really liked it? I know they’re not Flex-I-File. These used to be my go to, but recently they’re garbage. The sandpaper wears out quickly, they delaminate easily, and the fine grits are oddly brittle. I have the Alpha Abrasives foam backed. Love this for regular sand paper type work, but it’s a bit soft and very large (thick) for a sanding stick. I tried the Infini Zebra stick, but these are very wide and awfully rigid. I know Infini makes another version, but the pictures don’t look like the Spruebrothers version. I cant find any other sticks on their website. Their freebie looks similar dimensions to a Flexi-I-File, sandpaper similar to the Alpha Abrasive, and less rigid than the Infini. Anyone know?
  11. Thank you! And I was just coming back here to edit this again. It seems the Kinetic instructions really confused me. The left side door is smooth no matter what and there are 3 options for the right. Smooth, blade antenna, or blade antenna and blister. Based on the bird I’m doing, the latter is the correct option. Still couldn’t comment at all on the what, why, and what airframes other than the pictures I found.
  12. The Kinetic 1/48 F/A-18C comes with two options for the forward nose landing gear doors. One set is completely smooth and one has a blister and blade antenna on the right, and a lone blade on the left doors. The instructions call for use of the doors without antennas without mention of the others. I am building a VFA-151 bird in 2003. From photos, I can see the right side door should have the blister and blade antenna: The left side front nose door in the same time period appears to have not antenna: https://www.aviationphotocompany.com/p934046062/h860769b9#h860769b9 However, it may be hard to see this blade antenna end on and I don't understand the evolution/systems of these antennas. Should this be a smooth door on the left and the blister antenna on the right? Or antennas on both sides? Thank you for any insight! EDIT: This navy.mil picture would seem fairly convincing the only antennas should be on the right, nothing on the left door...
  13. I’m planning a bit similar, but with the GWH 1/72 kit. I at least have a diorama or one on cat 4 and one just before touchdown. I do also like the idea of one on the deck with a wire under tension. Oh and then there’s an elevator lift...so much building.
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