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ESzczesniak

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About ESzczesniak

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    Step away from the computer!
  • Birthday 10/01/1983

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chicago, IL
  • Interests
    Military Modeling (primarily USA)

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  1. I can tell you later today or tomorrow. The kit definitely has a torpedo. Not knowing much about much in the torpedo realm, I'm assuming it is a Mk. 46, but would have to check. I don't think it has the penguin missile, but will need to double check to be sure.
  2. Thank you for the reply. My bad and apologies about the torpedo. I am not an expert on torpedos...air dropped or submarine based. And I didn't have the manual in front of me. I suspect the kit has the Mk. 46. I know the -B's were off the smaller ships. I have an -F for later. Good information that you shared. It's seeming like a folded bird with a torpedo and an open engine panel may not be completely out of the realm of possibilities. I'll keep searching for pics. It seems finding pics of the folder helo's is a little more challenging that I was planning.
  3. I'm working on building the new Kitty Hawk 1/35 SH-60B. I'm starting off with the -B because I've always liked the SH-60 in the ASW role. I know I'd like to build the aircraft with the rotors and wings folded. Partly because I like to fold up naval birds, partly for space in the display case. I also like the added color of arming it with a Mk. 48. And the kit has a pretty nice OOB engine. So, in trying to recon with my AMS, I'm trying to figure out what might be realistic and was hoping there might be some experts that could help with a couple questions: 1. When would arming
  4. I am having a hard time seeing it in the pictures, but what I see looks a bit cloudy or frosty. Best guess is the undercoats hadn't cured fully before the next coat. Moisture trapped in clear coats can cause this too. You can try spraying a bit of solvent or flat coat to see if that fixes the problem. Occasionally it does, but my experience is that it lessens it, but doesn't completely fix it. You could call it weathering, otherwise, I'd reshoot a little black and go from there.
  5. You didn't mention which grade, 500, 1000, 1200, or 1500? The coarser grades take a bit longer to cure in my experience. With that said, I don't use it out of the spray can, but this is not my experience. I use Mr. Color Leveling Thinner which is a slower evaporating solvent. But once the solvent has evaporated, maybe 30-60 minutes and it's lost it's shine, it's ready for handling and sanding. Any hints as to how thick you're putting the primer on? Thicker coats could maybe explain this.
  6. I've never been under one in person, but based on pictures like this... https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-underside-view-of-sh-2-seasprite-helicopter-coronado-island-north-21009338.html ...they look the part to me.
  7. I'll tell you I'm building their SH-60B right know. It may not snap together like Tamiya, but it ain't bad the detail is outstanding! I don't know what you'd add in an aftermarket detail set.
  8. The base gray is pretty grainy, but the black panels, switches, etc, look good.
  9. This has been a chronic problem of any type of prepainted parts. The Quinta stuff is not as eye wateringly bad as Eduard prepainted photoetch. But it’s still not really close at all. I agree it looks somewhere between LGG and DGG. I’m working with their F-16 set, not the F/A-18, but the issue seems the same. The cockpit looked comical painted in a paint the matched the Quinta parts. So I painted the cockpit in 36231, applied the decals, and painted the gray parts in 36231. It was fairly quick and easy, and the end result looks great. But the color match is off just like all of Eduard
  10. These things are decals, but not totally like decals. Does anyone have experience yet to comment if applying to a glossy surface is necessary for good adhesion like regular decals? The instructions don't mention gloss or not, but recommend using PVA to improve adhesion. So not sure what to think for the gloss coat.
  11. I can't speak to accuracy or the build experience. But I went for the Hasegawa kits because the slats are separate. They're molded in the up/retracted position on the HB kit, making it less than ideal for modeling a parked aircraft on the ramp, as most of our models tend to be.
  12. Floyd, I'm not amazing at 3D modeling, but I'm not bad and I have a crew of PLA and resin 3D printers for prototyping. I'd be happy to help out with a USCG conversion set for nothing more than making one on my own in the process. If I can be of help, PM me. Eric
  13. That all sounds pretty manageable to me. I have a -B and -F on the way. May turn the F in to a USCG bird and the -B as an ASW bird she’s intended to be.
  14. I would like to build a USCG HH-60J. I have the Skunkmodels Kit and Black Dog interior, but I suspect I'll enjoy life a lot more working from a newer kit and a bigger scale. Would any the new kits in the KH 1/35 SH-60 series provide a relatively small effort conversion? I'm not an expert in these birds. It looks like the SH-60F has the pylons and door configuration. It would need the nose sensor. And no idea about the interior until I get the kit. And decals would be another story. Are there any experts here that could give me a sense of what all would be involved? Not sure if these n
  15. I picked one up as well and am liking it. The sandpaper packs that came with it had some templates and cutting them out didn’t seem to be any trouble. It’s seeming to work very well smoothing/flattening large flat areas where it can be easy to get a valley or leave a ridge with sanding sponges, sticks, etc.
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