ESzczesniak

I do have it, but turns out it’s a Wolfpack conversion set and Sky Decals. I can send pictures later.

I’ll have to check, but I think I have an Isracast conversion set and decals designed for the Tamiya kit. As alluded to, mostly lumps and bumps, assuming you get the nozzle/intake from the kit. I don’t plan on using it anymore and would be happy to part ways for negligible amounts (I.e. shipping cost).

Thank you!

At least the one I got was just a single 600 grit. I’ll have to take a look either way though.

True, I had been shooting at ISO 100 to preserve as much raw data as possible. But maybe this is also “over the top” and unnecessary.

I’m wondering if anyone with more knowledge/experience could comment on a reasonable F-stop range for photographing models? I have a decent Nikon DSLR and do most of my photography for models with the 18-55 mm lenses (F3.4-5.6). I have two CFL photography lamps with approximately 8,000 lumens, CRI 93, 5500k. Although I did just order a new tent inclusive of LED lights at 13,000 lumens, CRI 95, 5000k. I had been using f22-26. This was giving 1-1.5 second exposures and without autobracketing and need to use a remote release with these long exposures, really got tedious. I’ve been wondering if I’m pushing the f-stop lower than practically needed. Most of my subjects are roughly 1/48 aircraft size and my old photo box 24”, new 32”. At this setup, I tended to be more often near the 55 mm than 18 mm. Calculating DOF with this arrangement, f8 to f/22 only went from about 0.8” to 2.2”. So regardless, a whole model wasn’t technically in DOF. Given some of the point and shoot (I.e. without tripod, not lessor cameras) at shows, I can’t help think there’s something else that can bring the shutter times down. So so what range would you recommend for f-stop?

A while ago a freebie promotional sanding stick with a Spruebrothers order. It was all stamped with Spruebrothers, but I assume it was some brands available product that Spruebrothers made a deal and added their logo too. Could anyone one tell me what sanding sticks these are, as I’ve really liked it? I know they’re not Flex-I-File. These used to be my go to, but recently they’re garbage. The sandpaper wears out quickly, they delaminate easily, and the fine grits are oddly brittle. I have the Alpha Abrasives foam backed. Love this for regular sand paper type work, but it’s a bit soft and very large (thick) for a sanding stick. I tried the Infini Zebra stick, but these are very wide and awfully rigid. I know Infini makes another version, but the pictures don’t look like the Spruebrothers version. I cant find any other sticks on their website. Their freebie looks similar dimensions to a Flexi-I-File, sandpaper similar to the Alpha Abrasive, and less rigid than the Infini. Anyone know?

Thank you! And I was just coming back here to edit this again. It seems the Kinetic instructions really confused me. The left side door is smooth no matter what and there are 3 options for the right. Smooth, blade antenna, or blade antenna and blister. Based on the bird I’m doing, the latter is the correct option. Still couldn’t comment at all on the what, why, and what airframes other than the pictures I found.

The Kinetic 1/48 F/A-18C comes with two options for the forward nose landing gear doors. One set is completely smooth and one has a blister and blade antenna on the right, and a lone blade on the left doors. The instructions call for use of the doors without antennas without mention of the others. I am building a VFA-151 bird in 2003. From photos, I can see the right side door should have the blister and blade antenna: The left side front nose door in the same time period appears to have not antenna: https://www.aviationphotocompany.com/p934046062/h860769b9#h860769b9 However, it may be hard to see this blade antenna end on and I don't understand the evolution/systems of these antennas. Should this be a smooth door on the left and the blister antenna on the right? Or antennas on both sides? Thank you for any insight! EDIT: This navy.mil picture would seem fairly convincing the only antennas should be on the right, nothing on the left door...

I’m planning a bit similar, but with the GWH 1/72 kit. I at least have a diorama or one on cat 4 and one just before touchdown. I do also like the idea of one on the deck with a wire under tension. Oh and then there’s an elevator lift...so much building.

My apologies if it seemed like I was arguing. I was just trying to add information. These control surface changes are quick, but not instantaneous. It’s always seemed to me helpful to understand what is happening and why, so a person can figure out the exact moment they’re trying to depict. While the F110 engines were better, even in both linked photos, the speed brakes are still out. And the second linked photo photo as well as this one (https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:US_Navy_051115-N-7241L-012_An_F-14D_Tomcat_prepares_to_make_an_arrested_landing_on_the_flight_deck_of_the_Nimitz-class_aircraft_carrier_USS_Theodore_Roosevelt_(CVN_71).jpg) both show the inner spoiler panel used by the DLC out. It’s nearly retracted in the picture you posted, fully deployed in the photo above. But again, none of these transitions are instantaneous. So if you’re looking to depict the moment touchdown with the nose in the air still, it might be reasonable to see a bit of the onboard spolers deployed and brakes out. If your looking just as the bird is coming to a stop, both should be in.

If I understand correctly, this is a little variable and depends if you are talking about immediately before or after touchdown. 1. Spoilers: The F-14 has a “direct lift control” system that was designed to allow the pilot to make adjustments on glide slope without changing AOA. This was utilized due to slow response time of the engines and utilized spoilers 2 and 3. Up to touchdown, this would be partially deployed. With the anti skid switch in the carrier position, this would fully retract immediately at touchdown. On ground based landings, they would extend to improve wheel braking. 2. Speedbrake: I believe the speedbrake was at the pilots discretion, but often extended for the approach. This kept the power at a higher setting where the throttle curve was more responsive. These would retract effectively immediately at touch down when the pilot went full throttle. They were set to automatically retract past something like 60%. 3. Nozzle position: Again, depends a little bit how close to touchdown you mean, but in general would be at the “low power” position (I actually forget if that’s open or close). The pilot would select full throttle at touchdown, but throttle response was about 2 seconds and the aircraft would be near the end of roll out or even at a full stop before the engine response/position caught up. 4. Oleo: I don’t have much to add here. More compressed on the mains than the nose, but can’t say much about how much. Launch bar definitely up. 5. Tail planes: on average, slightly leading edge down, but dependent on current control inputs. Those inputs shouldn’t be so large they go past neural.

Thank you!

I know this is a Super Hornet, but would combat loaded a Legacy Hornet circa 2003 have similar chalk markings for gun/countermeasures loads? And if so, would it be on this similar corresponding panels?

Yes, and that’s where I’ve noticed a couple patterns. Sometimes people who have worked on the airplanes have helpful insight as to what is realistic and what is not. So I was just checking to see.