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KenK05

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About KenK05

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  1. Thank you, John. With the use of the translator, I was able to navigate through the website. The bad news for me is that they do not ship to the United States! This is a real disappointment to me, because they have the mask that I've been searching for. From what it says on their website, they only ship to countries in Europe. Any suggestions? Ken
  2. Thank you Nebbor! That is exactly what I am looking for. I am located in the US, but frequently order things from other countries. Now I just have to figure out how to order it, since I can't read German. So far, I think I managed to put it in my shopping basket. Now I have to figure out how to check out and pay for it. I was hoping to find a link to click at the site that converted it to English but could not find that. Any tips? With luck they will accept PayPal for payment. Again, thank you very much!
  3. I'm currently building the Trumpeter 1/48 scale F-100F Super Sabre and have not been able to find a source for a canopy mask. Eduard had made a mask set (EX320) for this model, but it is discontinued, and I have not been able to find any online sources that have it. I've tried eBay and most of the suppliers I usually use like Sprue Brothers, Super Hobby, and Kitlinx with no success. Being a relative novice in this hobby, I'm hesitant to try making my own mask. After reading some "how to" articles about masking canopies, I purchased some of the Tamiya Masking stickers thinking they
  4. It sounds like you have a bad bottle of the masking solution. According to the description of the product I found on the internet, it is supposed to dry in 20 to 30 minutes to a translucent film.
  5. According to the information provided with the kit, it makes about 5.5 cubic inches of silicone. That was more than enough for me, as my project needed only about 1.5 cubic inches. In looking at the directions again, it is the silicone in the kit that is designed to be made all at once, not the resin. The ratio by weight for the catalyst to base is 10 to 1, and that is what I tried to estimate by volume when I mixed this. Not the 1:5 ratio is mentioned earlier. Sorry about that mix-up, but I did the casting a month ago and forgot the details.
  6. I bought the Alumilite Mini casting kit, and it worked fine for casting the small part I wanted to copy. It was a control console for a UH-34 helicopter kit. I used a small section of 1" pvc pipe for the mold box, and that also worked well. My only issues with the kit are that it is basically a one shot deal. It is intended to be used all at once. The instructions tell you to mix all of the catalyst and resin at once for this kit to get the right ratio. For larger kits they mentioned that the ratio for the catalyst to resin was 1:5 by weight. As I only needed a very small amount of resin I too
  7. It sounds like a winner! Thanks to you and ESzczesniak for the hands on information. It was just what I was looking for. I have a question regarding your post that will probably show my lack of computer and forum knowledge. What are you referring to when you say "head over to the LPS"? Is that some other part of this forum? Thanks again for the info.
  8. The David 400 pen sander looks promising. But before I spend $100+ on one I'd like to hear a bit more about it from folks who have used this tool for modeling. One of my concerns is that you have to cut the sandpaper to fit the head you want to use. That may sound easy enough, but past experience with cutting adhesive backed sandpaper has shown it can be a bit tedious and troublesome. Especially if the pieces are small and need to be precise. So if any of you folks can elaborate a bit on your experience with using this tool, it would be appreciated.
  9. I second the recommendation for the Flex-I-File circle cutter. I've found it to be easy to use and it works great.
  10. Another nice feature with using Future is that you can apply a transparent acrylic paint over it to tint the part. And if it does not come out the way you want it, you can soak the part in a cup of regular Windex (with ammonia) to remove all of the paint and Future so you can start over again. I've used this method several times to tint canopies, and it worked well. Even when I screwed up the first time and didn't get the tint I wanted and had to start over again. A few minutes soaking in Windex, and you are back to a clear plastic part.
  11. Excellent information folks, and thanks for the help. I've looked at some of the tutorial videos and the kits that you have suggested. It looks fairly easy to do, and is not that expensive so I'll give it a try. From what I can see, this should work well for my current needs, and may come in handy down the road.
  12. Thanks for the info. I'll see what I can find on youtube and check out my local hobby shop. I think I've seen kits similar to what you describe available from Micro Scale now that you mention it. Hopefully it won't entail buying a large quantity of materials, as I just have 1 small part I want to copy.
  13. I'm looking for some suggestions/advice on how to cast resin parts. I have a small, rectangular shaped piece of cockpit consul that I'd like to make a duplicate of. It's basically just a box with some surface detail of knobs and gages on the top. Any advice on what material I should make the mold with, and what resin to use? Something like clay would seem to be appropriate to press the original part into to make the mold, but I'm not sure how that would work with a resin.
  14. I have had good luck using Blu-Tack for masking and holding parts in place while painting, with no "residue" issues. I have also used Silly Putty for this, and in some instances found that it left a shiny residue that was difficult to remove. I recently tried a DAP product called BLUESTIK and found it was very sticky, difficult to roll into "worms", and left a lot of oily residue. I would not recommend it for masking models.
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