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Cloud in the Wind

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About Cloud in the Wind

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    Rivet Counter
  • Birthday 12/02/1972

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    Columbia, MD

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  1. That's great news. Did he suggest that he might have future plans. Maybe sell his molds or designs?
  2. While I had good results from Tamiya rattle-can sprays, I have with the last couple models moved to airbrushing the overcoats. My process has become as follows Paint Some Weathering Gloss Coat Decal Some Weathering (to affect the decals) Dull coat panel lines and final weathering Dull coat or semi gloss (depending on scale) I've been doing mostly 144 scale kits the past few years, and while it adds a month to mine build time, some of the aftermarket decals are SUPER fragile and need that extra protection IMO. I'm not winning any contest
  3. I’m not sure how much help I can be as my methodology is common and probably already at your skill level. I place masking tape along the intended line then lightly scribe a number of times before going for it. For rivets I premark using a pencil to get the spacing and number. This takes me a few tries though.
  4. I have found these Prismacolor Premier markers particularly good. At 005 they are fine enough to stripe 144th scale missile bodies, though the color range of this set isn't very broad. I got another set of black that have a range of sizes the help with panel line work and some cockpit detailing. I also like my Molotow Liquid Chrome for mirror like finishes on some parts, though some practice is needed to not over-do it. https://www.amazon.com/Prismacolor-Premier-Illustration-Markers-Assorted/dp/B0027AATYI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=ADXCFV3ZP4MF&keywords=prismacolor+fine+line+marker
  5. I found this set on ScaleMates. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/hamilton-hobbies-general-atomics-mq-9b-skyguardian-conversion--1326692 not sure where you’ll find it. Kind of makes me want to add a version to my fleet though.
  6. My sad and difficult road building the F-4J continues. The single piece canopy of both my Minicraft and Sova kits do not fit over the seats once installed. There's a small chance that I will be able to break the seats out and file the seat pan's down to get the canopy to fit, which then means that I'm going to make the already ridiculous cockpit look even more so. As an alternative, I'm considering sawing the canopy into respective "open" configuration settings ... maybe that'll work. I went shopping in Scalemates and saw that Tomytec had an open cock set https://ww
  7. There was a time that I addressed this by running slot along a scrap balsa board. I used a strip of sand paper around a dowel to work in the right depth and width so that the missile body was just above the point where there fins would be attached. I'd spot glue both sides on one axis and then eyeball the other axis as you described. Then run a bead of thin CA to permanently secure it.
  8. Thanks Dutch. I think I selected a good set and book marked the site. Appreciate the suggestion.
  9. So, along with my F-4j build I decided to do an AF Phantom from my stash. I built the Academy “Positive Thinker” kit which was coincidental since the kit itself is a hot mess. now that I’m to the decalling stage I’ve discovered that the provided decals have a pretty awful print alignment issue and are fairly trash. im wondering if anyone else has any decals for this kit they might part with?
  10. I solved that problem with a rheostat Breadneck when I built a powered MQ-9 a while ago. Didn't want to mess with resisters to get the voltage down to where it was "ideal."
  11. Weighing in with my recommendation. I also build paper/card stock models and I've found that stamp collecting (Philately) tweezers offer a lot of fine control that are sometimes lost with pointed tips in certain circumstances. I particularly like my spade tipped tweezers. https://www.amazon.com/AAPROTOOLS-Tweezers-Philately-Collector-Quality/dp/B079Q2LXT3/ref=d_pb_allspark_dp_sims_pao_desktop_session_based_vft_none_sccl_4_3/137-6482161-9544549?pd_rd_w=T5cwM&content-id=amzn1.sym.6b5008ac-c24a-4aea-a3ea-015a531184f5&pf_rd_p=6b5008ac-c24a-4aea-a3ea-015a531184f5&pf_rd_r=Q
  12. Thanks to you both. The picture is very helpful. I think these colors are included in the Vallejo WWII USN set. I like the way that the 50:50 Sea Blue and Medium Blue look. It matches how I expect the Corsair would appear. So much in the eye of the beholder, right?
  13. Hello all, I'd appreciate your advice on the color choices for an upcoming build as part of my Jolly Rogers project. I picked up a Corsair from the AFV Club in preparation and the instructions (https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/6/2/1120662-46-instructions.pdf) list the following colors for this version; Gloss Seablue - (Mr Color C365) = Vallejo ??? Blue Gray FS35189 (Mr Color C367) = Vallejo 71.008 Lt Gull Grey FS36440 (Mr Color C11) = Vallejo 71.296 I converted the Blue Grey and Gull Grey I think respectably as listed, but the Gloss Seablue is allud
  14. Good price on that, but I'm going to pass. I've sunk enough down the Phantom rabbit hole as it is. You know, in my notes from my Squadron/Signal reference book, I thought I'd commented that the F-4J didn't all have the slots or the RWR receivers right away. However, now double checking, the pics from this squadron seem to all have 'em. I suppose I could make the receivers out of putty. Have to test it out. I've started both the Sova and the Academy kits together. The panel lines on the Slov are attractive, even if I'm going to have to re-scribe them once I sand
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