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About trietmcam

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

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  1. I use the JLC razor saw. Not only can it scribe very thin lines, it can be used as its original intent, cutting. With a little practice, you can actually scribe a straight line without any straight edge aid. There are various manufacturers make these razor saws, JLC, CMK, HQT. But serve similar functions. I think they are all interchangable also. UMM-USA carries them in stock. http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=35
  2. Is this what youre looking for? There's a guy specializes in 3D print weapons. It's available in both scales https://www.ebay.com/itm/403786045738?hash=item5e0386192a:g:5~8AAOSwihZi1w~t&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4A%2FUzLo0ZnALrdzO8M7JuwTVfAduyQvRO8OwrpCV7e65AAk%2Bon8mBFy7FSNqa%2FH%2B5IsDNKtdGzEFJanTK5QnHtNUyTCTbRyZdL1x%2FPptYBgH%2BKT1eZGXeHozJxTVwtNrf5ub%2F7nf7N1qWANLMtnsqn4Sb6VakUAiACDb6bZuY41M4bNZwjD551V5t2DKjN0oveVQe5jroqSNiv0dNWxCkq4e%2B0dY8AdbGON7Wks1Abmo4qZzs12oYH2PbhyzCQ2xs7%2BbqlEwlOouBnUPFkk30wv6mwQmXFhNoGMvhloYlW37|tkp%3ABFBMrtSdqPhg
  3. Maybe this forum can help. It's run by a few modelers who are vietnam scale model enthusiates. You have to register to enter though. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/rvnscale/index.php
  4. When I sprayed it, after dried it left a slight satin sheen feel to it, though not super glossy. Kind of like the tested spoon here. You would think MRP would labeled it as (2)6473.
  5. Srue Bros. has the MRP color in stock: https://spruebrothers.com/mrp242-mrp-mr-paint-sky-grey-fs36473-30ml-for-airbrush-only/ MRP called it sky grey. It is slightly gloss, so you can go directly to decal after it's dried. Very easy to spray, and no thinning needed.
  6. Must have been a one off color scheme did not lasted very long. Thre's no mention of which gray FS number. I guess ADC gray would be close.
  7. If you're doing a Sandy SAR mission, the Hasegawa A-1H kit has what you're looking for; the 150gal centerline tank and 2 finned 300 gal tanks, plus cluster bomb dispensers. They're pretty accurate. The Hase Skyraider is kind of hard to find nowaday. Maybe posting on the classified forum might help. All's left to complete the load out is some LAU rocket pods and Mk bombs. The Academy A-37 Dragonfly has all of those, or the Hasegawa weapon sets 1. Also, Quickboost did a complete pylons sets, should you need to upgrade those from the Monogram kit.
  8. Ah, I see. You could contact Tamiya serive for a part. I lost a horizontal stablizer and they sent a replacemet for freee. But that was years ago, don't know if they still have replacement service. I was referencing kit bashing a 1/32 Zoukei Mura A-1H with the Fisher Model A-1E conversion set. At one time Paul Fisher did an A-1E conversion set that would have enabled to fill the A-1E Skyraider void in 1/32. You just had to provide an A-1H donor kit, either the ZM kit or Trumpeter. Something tragic happened to his business, I think it was a fire burned down his place, so he's no
  9. Is your intention to replace the ancient Monogram skyraider undersize cowl? If yes, I wouldn't bother. It's way too big to fit in the fuselage opening, creating a huge step that you'd have to sand down, making the nose look so out of place.
  10. This is one outstanding build. Details went in is just so well placed. The weathering effects are just astounding. Love the tires mud look. Great job Tomas. Best regards Triet
  11. Problem solved. ElectroSoldier's hint gave me an idea. Turns out, the trigger was not positioned directly on the air valve plunger when pulled all the way back. Due to it being bent over 30 years of usage, when i pulled the trigger all the way back, the trigger slowly came off of the air valve. And that's why no air coming in. Plus the spring back plate was also loose not engaging the trigger until it's half way back. This looseness may have encouraged the trigger to hop off the airvalve plunger. I replaced the trigger and spring backplate from the good 100 side feed airbrush, and it worked fi
  12. I'm looking for some help with the side feed 100 series. I thought I knew airbrush, but this stumped me. It is blowing very low air, barely can feel the air coming out. When I turn the compressor to max (>60psi) then air comes out hard, only for about 1 or 2 seconds. I swapped out the head with one I know is working - same results. Swapped out the air valve assembly with a new one (where the hose connects to) - same results. Paint cup, nothing wrong. So the only thing left is the main body shell casing. But it's been soaked in lacquer thinner. So it should be free of clogs. Last option is
  13. First off, welcome back to the hobby. As you may already know, the modern kits are leaps and bounds in quality compared to when we were kids. Tamiya being one of the premier. You can't go wrong with Tamiya modern kits in general, as their fit and finish is second to no one. That should help your modeling skill to a higher level in itself. As for: 1. Airbrush is the way to go, even if the aircraft is in mono color. As for which airbrush, there are many answers, but I have been using Badgers for ages. Pasche is another good one. And both are reasonably priced. And don't go for those
  14. Most impressive! With the pin vise next to it, you get the sense how small the parts are.
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