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ElectroSoldier

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About ElectroSoldier

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    F-111 FOREVER!
  • Birthday 05/21/1977

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  1. Not definitive but it implies that they didnt change it at all
  2. Why would they change the wheel well colours when they change to T.O on the camo scheme? If they did then before white I would imagine they would have a protection paint like yellow or green zinc chromate.
  3. Did you really go out and buy a load of toilet rolls?
  4. Ive been looking around, not exhaustive I must say but from what I can see the 503rd Heavy Panzer battalion got moved to Normandy in early '44 where they first picked up their Tiger B tanks, at which point they were painted in the "ambush" pattern like this And not this pattern.
  5. Oh right. Sorry I misread what you wrote... Ive never used Tamiya primer. Mr color primer is good in some cases among others. Is Tamiya equal to Mr color 1000?
  6. Interesting. Why do you put Tamiya primer over Mr Color Primer?
  7. Revell is a decent place to start. Get some airbrush cleaner, you will need an old paint brush with short fairly stiff bristles to clean it out at the end of a session and some pipe cleaners. When you come up to your first "problem" then I would tell you to look for Flory models on youtube. There are hundreds of tutorials out there but his are most helpful as you will face the problems he shows you how to fix in just a few short steps. Nothing you face in day to day use is all that much once you realise why its doing it. Get some paint... Badger Stynlrez is a good place to start as its useful once you finish playing and it doesnt really need thinner to use it. Grab some cardboard boxes or something ike that and spray away.
  8. Ive seen it on the JagdPanther in Kubinka.
  9. It all depends on your airbrush setup (needle) and air pressure. Its possible but not advisable to spray Tamiya acrylics straight from the pot with a high enough air pressure and a large enough needle. In the normal run or the mill set ups then no you dont need to thin model air any more than it is already. Its sold as pre thinned for airbrushing. But you can thin it down to water and lay on the coats if you want. Flow improver and or retarder work with it. Flow improver will help it lay smoother, drying retarder will slow the drying time.
  10. The lacquer thinners will etch into the plastic so for the purposes of activating the surface you dont need a primer as it will stick. However in model making we dont always use a primer just to activate the surface. Consider the properties of a base colour, do you want it to have shadows (pre shading) or do you want to lighten up the paint more, I found MRP very thin too so a primer paint is even more important as it will shade the final coat of paint.
  11. Once the figure out the cost of a can of paint and how much coverage you get from one can compared to a jar of the same colour you will find that it doesnt take long before the cost of the spray cans while being much cheaper at the start gets increasingly smaller as time goes by until you get to the point investing in an airbrush and compressor becomes cheaper. Or The law of diminishing returns. Spray cans have their own set of faults not the least of which is there are limited colours released in them. You can get a cheap and very useable airbrush and compressor for say £150, maybe even less than that, you might get a set for £80 all up. The results you will get with it will beat spray cans at the start and KO them after you realise what an airbrush can really do.
  12. The 911 930 I understand as a classic. but the 911 GT2 993... We can stil taste the Le Mans wins!
  13. Sounds fair enough. I never really considered reproduction like that for multiple different products from one common tool.
  14. How can you hate them? They either put out their own kits which are very good or rebox other manufacturers kits which are also very good. Thats why I said much earlier in this thread it doesnt matter if the pastic is theirs or not, the kits are always very good.
  15. Why do manufacturers split them into two parts in that way?
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