Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ElectroSoldier

  • Rank
    F-111 FOREVER!
  • Birthday 05/21/1977

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

8,535 profile views
  1. To make an E or R from an A kit you not only need the engines (TF33 or CFM56) you also need to larger horizonal stabilizers. If going with an R model you also need the APU exhausts part that fits onto the rear fuselage... From memory the TF33 engines that AMT moulded are only good for a one or two specific aircraft because of the configuration of the turbo compressor intakes.
  2. Flory did a review on his youtube page. I seem to remember the kit can be built as a B or D model. While the Hasegawa kit for instance is a CFT'd up D model it is only because the parts required to make it an E are not in the kit. There is no reason you cant make a kit that can be built as an accurate D model and an accurate E model, none of the changes are so fundamental. For instance the main gear doors can simple be swapped for E model doors, the P229 engine intakes can be added, as can the LANTIRN pods and CFT with pylons. Its at least a year since I looked over the GWH
  3. The GWH kit is much later that OEF or OIF... WIthout breaking open the box Im not even sure if it has the old LANTIRN pods in the kitm I think its the Sniper or Litening pod. I do seem to remember the Revell kit only has 2 of the AMRAAM rails, which I think is more ODS than OEF/OIF
  4. The forward most suspension lug will mount to where the lug is on the kit, the rear most will move back
  5. I would have to agree with you on that, even during this COVID pandemic the sheer amount of newly released models, and the high standards of those models is just amazing. There was a company who earlier this year released a "model" of some birds. pigeons I think, and I know its only a little thing but its so telling of an ever expanding hobby when it can support such releases. Back in my early years of modelling Italiaere not Italeri released the Me 321 Gigant. Now we have things so amazing it would have been impossible to even imagine them way back then.
  6. Laser cut Modelling Accessories | Model Designs | Professional Collection I have four of the large wall mounted racks for mine. The only paints I have that dont fit are ZeroPaints, you can get the holes for Gunze/Tamiya or smaller version for Vallejo/Mig.
  7. Given the rather soft details of the kit I would imagine there will be a whole raft of after market parts for it in due course.
  8. They can be acrylic lacquers because acrylic doesnt actually mean water. define acrylic - Google Search Paint is made up of THREE things. Not two but three. Pigment. Binder Carrier. The Binder is what makes the pigment stick to the model youre painting... The pigment is the colour. The carrier makes the gloopy binder move nice and easy so you can move it with a brush or thinned down even more sprayed with airbrush. A binder is an emulsion. In an acrylic paint binder that emulsion has some water in it. That is all acrylic means
  9. I think RLM 27 Dark Yellow is to sand coloured. That colour has a code. Maybe its not RLM... Maybe RAL?
  10. Now those colour matches, if you can call it that are unforgivable.
  11. Yeah I agree. But then if that is true then the real colour will never work on a scale model. People like to make models of the ones they see in photos. I remember many years ago I made an MH-53J on display at Mildenhall, it will just over the ramp from an F-15E but the colour looked a light lighter. They didnt look like they were the same colour. I suppose thats what they did on the MH-53J... Does one size fit all in this example?
  12. There are two types of "rubber" or vinyl tracks, those you can and those you cant use glue on to join the ends together, the type in has in the box will be noted in the build instructions, if you have the older type then you will need to melt the little post to stick it together, oftherwise any model glue will work on them. Painting is a problem no matter what they are made of because nothing likes sticking to them. I use an etching primer on them when I have to use them, but any primer you put on them will stick in most places but in general it will flake off over time, espec
  13. Yeah I understand what you mean, at my work I know the paints have to match the colour chip but in model paints I just dont know. These are scale model paints that are aimed at scale modellers. These paints are not going to be used on the real thing. Ive seen it so many times with German Panzer grey. When a company makes a paint that matches the colour chip modellers dont like it, they say it doesnt look right, it looks to dark so they buy somebody elses paint.
  14. Ok so Ill start by saying Ive been on quite a few places now and keep coming up blank, and while this isnt the first place I thought of because of the subject I know you guys can usually come up with the right answer. Im looking for the RLM colour code for the yellow MSC (Mediterranean Shipping Company). Im sure you all know them, Im sure you have all seen them. [url=https://ibb.co/SxsGp2Y][img]https://i.ibb.co/SxsGp2Y/570x320-ACS.jpg[/img][/url] As you can see its a sort of a washed out yellow. Does anybody know how to find the RLM colour code f
  • Create New...